puntoMX

I see a performance boost with dual core only with programs like Newtek Lightwave and 3D Studio MAX. For games I didn’t see a lot of frames more then on a single cored computer. (I use Lightwave and I’m happy with dual CPUs, waiting for the AMD 64 dual core to come up and becoming affordable )

Not all housing use spacers like for example Inwin. If there is space like >4mm between mobo and back plate then you are safe. Also you can see it; if the AGP/PCI/(ISA LOL) fits well that don’t worry about spacers .

sparge, Welcome to this forum . You just have to drag and drop the files you like to burn, after that Windows is going to ask you to burn the CD. A screen saver will not cause problems; you have buffer under run protection on 16x or higher CD burners. What people are talking about here is to disable SERVICES of a computer. It would be better for you to disable the IMAPI service too with SERVICES.MSC. Just look up the IMAPI service and set status on disable. Then try again to burn a CD. IMAPI is the build-in CD burning program and I don’t know if it even supports DVD . Any questions, feel free to ask

MTV is working in firefox now with the full Realplayer, like I want to have a media player that is 40MB when it´s installed .

The other numbers are also latencies, so you have CAS-RAS-C2R for example with SDR RAM and CAS-TRCD-TRP-TRAS for DDR(2). Read more on this when you search with google for example... http://www.ocfaq.com/article.php/overclocking/63

What revision of PCB (motherboard) do you have?

A 11x17 monochrome laser printer still will cost you a lot, but I think you don’t print enough, just 100 pages at the time, I was thinking you are printing like 5000 pages a month . If you look for an Inkjet, I would go for Epson. They have printers with waterproof ink and its good enough for you when you only print a few hundreds of pager a month .

6k US$, , okay, then forget the cheap Samsung, that one is just 0.45k US$ LOL. 11x17" is a must? and 6k US$... take a look at this one ... http://www.office.xerox.com/perl-bin/product.pl?product=7750

I would also say take ffdshow and ogg codecs in: -ffdshow plays almost all video codecs and gives pritty good quality too -ogg is used more and more as almost a successor of MP3 So, if´s it´s not to much fuzz, then go for it (I just check what people are using here in my cybercafé, it´s a good place to check things like that )

I can give you one, MTV.COM. This site is bugging the s*** out of me but what can I do. People like to see the music clips but it only works with IE AND MP9/10. If it would work with MP10 and firefox it would also be cool but it doesn´t. Lets say I tried everything... aargg What´s the story about MP10lite?

You could try to disable IMAPI SERVICE with SERVICES.MSC. The IMAPI driver will not be loaded then. (I doubt if it´s the SERVICE but it´s easy to try )

We start an iNTEL AMD WAR! again? B) AMD for me here LOL Any way, I would go for the socket 775 Pentium also i.s.o. the "old" 478 socketed model, altrough I thought it uses more expensive DDR2 RAM.

Not here In Mexico

hmmm, I can´t remember that Coolermaster had them . But it could be posible...

SAMSUNG RULEZ for the price, and they have 3 years (on-site) warranty too! Don´t think I´ll buy other screens then TFTs from Samsung for my cybercafé .

If that doesn´t help, look for an other burner . LiteOn makes nice ones.

It also could be the VGA card. THey just SYNC good (sorry about that technical therm, let me see if I can find some thing on that from you) . There: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&oi=...e&q=define:Sync Try to put your monitor on other computers, if it´s okay there then I would check your VGA card.

Yes, badcopy pro is the fastes tool I´ve found and is doing the same job in half the time . Other ones are too slow in my eyes.

Legal is 8.5 x 14" Shoot, your right (I think I keep it with the metric system ). With the manual input feeder you can print 8.5x17” For the ones that don´t know any thing about the wax printers, look here: http://www.kodak.com/US/en/digital/dlc/boo...apter2/l5.shtml I think you can´t compare wax printers with toner printers, for example I would not print a book with it (with all my respect to raskren (I like that you came up with it )) What price range are we talking about any way? I think those wax printers are way more expensive to buy? EDIT: Info on color laser printers too http://www.kodak.com/US/en/digital/dlc/boo...apter2/l3.shtml EDIT: Links are not working at this moment...

The Samsung CLP-500 would be nice; It supports legal size 11x17" and full duplex printing. Toner is not to expensive, just a bit more then HP. Images are sharp, I was even surprised when I saw the first picture that came out of the Samsung Color Laser printer. Only bad thing is that it does not detect the paper type automatically; if you use thick paper you have to set it manual first. Other then that, it’s the best printer for its price http://www.samsung.com/au/products/printer...=Specifications EDIT: ps. Also Lexmark makes nice Laser printers, little bit faster then the Samsung...

Did you try to connect your fans with a “5.25” connector” too? If yes, is it still the same?

If you have a short circuit it will give you a sound too. Is it a “sissing” sound? And for how long?

As far as I know (95% sure) the GeForce 3 needs a voltage of 3.3. All GF4 cards or higher use 1.5v. All AGP 8x cards use 1.5v but also there are AGP 4x cards that use 1.5v like the older GF4 cards. Hmmm, makes me remember my first GF3, the first ASUS 8200 card in Holland, I had a sample model of it B) (those cards had problems with mouse pointers). If this is wrong what would the symptoms be? I turned it on several times with no post errors and no video. Could I damadge something? Yes you could damage it, but don´t worry about it, it will take a long time. Just go for a AGP 8x card, just to make sure that you will be safe. I wonder if you can run any 3D appz...

Just connect both harddisks to your motherboard. You can use 1 or 2 cables to do that. To make it easy: If you use one cable, make sure that the hard drive with the data is connected to the connector on the end of the cable and the empty one on the second connector (in the middle). Both hard disks need to be set as cable select .Use Ghost to copy the data 1 on 1 to the new drive. If you use two cables, make sure that both hard drives are connected to the connector on the end of each cable. Use IDE1 channel 1 for the drive with the data and IDE channel 2 for the empty one. Both hard disks need to be set as cable select .Use Ghost to copy the data 1 on 1 to the new drive. There are other ways but as you are new with hardware the best way is like I explained you. Good luck, Get Ghost here: http://www.binaryresearch.net/symantecghost.html B)

Would you please be so kind to tell us how you did it? It’s for other forum-users so they can read about in