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puntoMX

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Everything posted by puntoMX

  1. Indeed, try S3 and not S1, install the, non MicroSoft, AMD chipset driver from 7/29/2015. It doesn't sound like a hardware failure to me. -Ronald
  2. Most important is the chipset driver; the driver for the NIC and soundchip you have to check for XP drivers, but most still XP support as in general they are older hardware than the chipset. No idea about USB3.0 support under XP. M.2 should work as it's not dependent on the OS, more on the BIOS. Z77 (and older) in general can't boot from M.2 as most BIOS are not updated for it. I'm using mostly used hardware, didn't care much for if it was overclocked before as it would tell me that the hardware has been tested very well ;). But, I would skip Z68 or Z77 chipset motherboards as the component
  3. First, didn't read all the 5 pages so this might be said; The Z87 chipset still has Xp drivers, https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/20488/Intel-Desktop-Utilities?product=72195 , and has a few pluses over the Z77. Would not bother with the Z68 as they are sold more expensive than a Z77 or Z87 motherboard. - Supports faster RAM, so your programs run smoother if you drop in a 2133/2400MHz RAM instead of the 1333/1600 that the Z68 can do. - Support to boot from M.2, some Z77 seem to be able to do it too but it's no warranty - Better onboard graphics, still, if you render
  4. That's actually a nice Philips CRT monitor! On the Dell the best I could find was this: https://www.cnet.com/products/monitor-dell-e771p-17-16-vis-grey-crt-monitor/specs/ Not much to go on, I know. -Ronald
  5. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Component_video_sync It has something to do with the way the screen image is using a sync. I'm sure that the Dell screen was more expensive than the Philips, wasn't it? Edit: One screen must use a different sync, the green sync isn't used for some time now (darn we are getting old :P): "Separate sync: Uses separate wires for horizontal and vertical synchronization. When used in RGB (i.e. VGA) connections, five separate signals are sent (Red, Green, Blue, Horz. Sync, Vert. Sync). Composite sync: Combines horizontal and vertical synchronization ont
  6. I'm not sure why it did work on the other, might be that it doesn't use the sync on the green color, and has it's own sync. My mind is getting rusty so let's see if others can tune in here. Edit: By the way, those cheaper (10USD) "active" adapters don't do much "active".
  7. Hello Bob, I believe you are out of luck, as most analog signals are being removed from new video cards. Convertors from DVI-D / HDMI to VGA are as expensive as a good used screen that has digital inputs. My personal opinion is, drop the analog screens and look for some good used (or new) ISP/VA panel screens on craig-list; eBay seems to have less and less interesting deals on used computer parts. I'm using a 40" 4k screen on a nVidia 1060 card and dropped the dual screen setup I had before. -Ronald
  8. Working with ECC RAM is just tricky, if it's just ECC unbuffered in most cases it will work, buffered I never got to work. The 10 series nVidia cards are good, no driver problems other then in some cases a reduction in memory speed when the card came OCed from the factory. The AMD drivers are not that great either and this is why I switched a week a go to the nVidia 1060 3GB from a AMD x280 card due to the fact that it has a TDP of less than half of the 280x and it supports HDMI2.0. Switching to a new card gave me a HUGE performance upgrade as now I can use the 4k screen at 60Hz; everythi
  9. You are right, I scrolled up just now and saw your question and next post had the answer. Well, it's one point less to look at ;).
  10. Sorry, my memory fails me, but I've had this problem before. Are we talking about the slot-in drives (car-stereo load type so to say)? Pioneer had a lot of firmware problems on their drives, but they were darn good when they worked. I believe I fixed the problem by replacing the driver DLL for the drive, or changed the registry, or disabled or enabled 32bit drive support in the BIOS. I might have been disabling SMART, change master/slave in cable select, as well. Microsoft´s fix didn't work for most drives, I think it did work for HP drives in laptops. Check the net if you can find a man
  11. This is why I said "if you go this way", like I did, as I wrote above. You don't need 2160p output to use your 1080p. I was only trying to explain my experiences, sorry if it wasn’t useful for you but someone else might see it different.
  12. Well E-66, this is what I can say. 3 Months back I wanted 4k and thus I bought a 500 USD 4k TV. I was using a 23" Dell IPS and so I was a bit picky on the new 4k screen. The new screen is VA and thus it won't show the colors as nice as the IPS under every angle, however, black is black and the VA does a better job than the IPS I had. The new screen is made by Samsung, its 40" and thus comparable with a 27" "2.5k" screen. I play games on it as well, windowed at "2.5k". Downside is that I need to get my display port to HDMI to have the 60Hz refresh rate, but that aside. The TV
  13. There is Pixlr and Inkscape, don't know if they are the best for you but give them a try I would say. Inkscape is darn powerful if you know how to use it, it blows something like Corel Draw away . And rocketdock... err, why have that?
  14. Sorry for the late post, but I would go for something with a name. I don't understand that they sell a PSU with no information other than formfactor and how much watts it can push... sure, peak. I like this PSU for it's price, it even comes with a backplate so if adaption is needed to fit the old HP, you can just drill holes in that plate and not in the PSU: FSP Group Mini ITX / Micro ATX / SFX 300W 80 Plus Certification Power Supply (FSP300-60GHS) However, having used some brand PSUs myself, the most reliable PSUs I've come across were from Silverstone: SilverStone Technology 300W SFX For
  15. Just get a card that does support larger than 2TB HDDs out of the box and if possible one where you can upgrade the firmware from. See that little 8 pin chip next to the larger square chip? That's where the firmware is stored. I'm sure it's a just out of the box firmware that ASmedia released when they brought the "1061" to the market. Most sellers are just box pushers and they have no clue on what they are selling or than "it sells" .
  16. 4 Days too late but I hope you had a good one .
  17. Looks to me that powersaving of that laptop isn't supported by Windows 10, so it wants to go into powersave mode and messes up the memory. So, it has something to do with power but it's not the battery. Try to disable some powersave settings and see if that helps. But, it’s kind of odd that this happens. Did you try a BIOS update?
  18. Mine works at 4.6GHz, turbo off, but also use a single fan watercooler on it and have the CPU working at 1.2v (1.15v stock). -Ronald
  19. Errr ... that HD6970 was great to start with, it does video acceleration for Sony Vegas . PCI-E 3.0 isn't needed. Any way, the new cards are power less power hungry and should be less noisy.
  20. I buy shoes online as well yes, sometimes, but only if I know the brand and that the sizing is good . --- Buying a case because it looks cool, sure, but I thought this was a computer freak forum? I hate sharp corners, flimsy plastic, painted plastic, holes not lining up, too crowded inside, cable management wrongly designed and more of those things like cooling options. I would care less about how much lights and bling it would have. I thought that this makes it personal .
  21. Hello guys, thank you for reminding us! So it was Trip's birthday as well, let me bug him with that .
  22. CPU-Z will show you the highest JEDEC standard, thus PC3-12800, so it's normal what you see there. -Ronald
  23. You also buy a pair of shoes because they look cool? Go to your local shop and buy one there, or, get something like a R.A.T. and adjust it to your likes. Get a gamer mouse for sure. I have a Corsair M40 that I bought online too. Local shops don't have anything other than cheap build mice or if you are lucky one from Microsoft or Logitech. The mouse is okay but I had to get used to the shape and fit. I need a precision mouse for drawing 3D objects and use it up to 14 hours a day. Next mouse would be a R.A.T. 7 or so, I see them less than 100USD at the time of writing. The wireless R.
  24. Just use the 500MHz PIII and see if it runs at 333MHz on that mobo. If so you have a few MMX and some other functions extra but that's all you can get out of it.
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