puntoMX

Why not trowing out the 20GB drives? They are a lot slower then your new drives. I would use them as master drives any time and keep the 20GB drives for backup or so... just think about it.

NO one is paying atencion to what nmX.Memnoch is saying?

LOL

Hardware store, like as in "Nuts and Bolts" . Why a computer store?

Get the hardest paint you can get (2 components would be the best but it´s hard to use b/c you have to be quick), also mix it with enough tinner (or what ever the base of the paint is compatible with) to create a smoother surface. I used 2 component paint in combinacion with an airsbrush "gun".

No beeps? But the fan spins up?

Any hardware store sell them cheaper then Newegg , I pay for a bag (100pcs, 100mm) just $ 1.30 and I only have to walk 32 feet (10 meters). Okay, they are "milky" colored or black but still

To tell you the truth, I use Spiral-wrap, tie-wraps and Mounting Bases ( http://tiewraps.com/mountbase.html ). Tie-wraps are cheap but to order everything from Newegg is a bit overdone, Ripken dude, I know you like Newegg but to promote it that much isn´t healthy (Newegg ). Edit: spazmire11 has a point too, and there are also mounting-bases for flatcables

This is the info on there site: 925XE7AA-8EKRS 5xx Sequence 520, 521, 530, 531, 540, 540J, 541, 550, 551, 560, 560J, 561, 570, 570, 571 6xx Sequence 630, 540, 650, 660, 670 P4 EE Series 3.4G/800, 3.46G/1066, 3.73/1066 So there are no 3xx Sequence CPUs (Celeron D) on there list, you have to stick with the 915 chipset if you want a Foxconn motherboard. Read also this: http://www.digit-life.com/articles2/roundu...5-chipsets.html . I hope you have enough information now

Yellow and black will give you 12V. It’s just using 15W, like 1.25A, that’s not much. Only problem you could have it that you get a voltage ripple that returns to the PSU witch could damage other components on the same line... This is all that I can say about it. Some one else with more information?

You could use Tie-wraps, but I know what people like more. They sell it in a good hardware store (the ones for screws and bolds ), and the name Spiral-wrap. Just a link to get an image: http://cableorganizer.com/images/spiral-wrap-big.jpg And some more info: http://www.moddin.net/review.asp?ReviewID=144&PageNo=1 (I hope these links work ) They come in all kinds of colors, even in UV / Neon colors

I have seen half-dead iNTEL-based motherboards that also cause to 100% CPU load, last time I changed a motherboard with that problem was one of a DELL too...

GTA III on a 433MHz CPU with only SSE1? It works with 10 frames a second or so , you need a 800MHz or higher to play it well. Time for an update?

Then it will not give you the message "bad drive", some BIOSes don’t give you any message, but it’s easy to see if you disable it and you get the message "SMART capable but disabled". SMART is not so precise when it comes to errors, lets say that it just gets a variable back from the drive that needs to be in-between 2 values. If it’s out of that range it gives you the "bad disk" error. Some times the drive had read write hit errors, calibration errors or RPM errors, but most of the time it’s lose alarm . For more info Google a bit, it too much to explain here, but you have an idea...

nmX.Memnoch, you are right. There is no use to spend more cash on a RIMM system (for home use). Low budged solutions like AMD Sempron64 systems score better in many ways and you have new hardware for the price of a RIMM upgrade.

Casefans are not needed to run a PC, as long as your CPU fan is running it´s okay . And airflow will also be generated by cold and warm (hot) air. An outtake fan is recomended for a AMD Athlon 1333 and above. And for the gamers; trow all your fans inside, so you know your computer is working B) (That´s a joke )

There is one more; almost every fan has arrows on them, one for the “propeller” (rotor) direction and one for the air direction .

Check if the red switch is there. Most of the in the USA sold PSUs have that switch. If you by them in Europe (b/c of the CE standard they keep it out for safety) you have the chance that it doesn’t have the switch and it will not work in the USA (but this is not the case for you ). Don’t worry about the power cables; that one is sold separated and you can buy it in ant electronics store over there (put 5 Euros and you have one). Are you in the states now and moving to Europe or just buying in the states? If you only buy it then ask before you order the PSU if it has the switch. Good luck

http://www.dailytech.com/article.aspx?newsid=310 There you go, Benchemarks of the x1900

, any new burner will do all I think LOL, but always nice for the new dude here

Your RAM yes, tweak it and test it with MEMtest ore something. It can´t be your CPU...

I think you should not worry about a difference of 10 degrees. It could that the cards don’t have the same measurements, or the temperature censor is not that accurate. Switch them out to see what happens, also remove the TV and modem PCi cards and see what will happen. Remember: if it works it works .

Nice!, any specs or details on the perforamnce boost, it could people help out here (like me, getting old ).

Yep, ATi goes for 1:3:1, and nVidia for a "normal" 2:2:1 , so the specs on the X1900 are clear? Let me check them out then

Hypertransport bus from 4x to 3x, that could help too .