puntoMX

Yours 17" is 1280*1024. : , and there are not many left these days compared to the 16:09 screens.

Only if it is 1280*1024 for example .

Again, you can easily find a second hand dual core CPU + motherboard + enough RAM for under $100. That will give a HUGE boost in performance (like 300% gain). Whereas finding a second hand Athlon XP 3200+ (still a ghetto CPU without SSE2 -- about the same speed as a P4 2.2GHz in tasks like encoding XviD for example) will cost half of that and offer a ~10% speed boost (not enough to be noticeable, and zero help in running more demanding apps or games i.e. a pointless waste of money) if it actually works and that's not exactly guaranteed either. At some point an upgrade really is the best option, and here getting anything reasonably faster and more modern isn't a huge expense. Heck, even "garbage diving" for an old P4 (free) would be a much better option. At least you'd get SSE2 out of it, you'd likely also get more RAM slots on the motherboard. Yes, you can have a complete set with 2GB, dual core CPU and mobo for even under 60USD shipped in Canada or the USA (I had a Pentium D 920/930 with 1GB DDR2 RAM and an Intel 965 mobo for 30USD shipped, and was almost in new state!) and I agree with what you said (I would trash the Athlon XP too) but the OP just asked IF it was possible, and I understand from it that he wants to spend little to nothing and still could get a little more out of his current system. You know we agree on most stuff .Garbage Diving is a nice sport! :lol:

You have already found the best website of LCD screens; TFTcentral.The DELL screen that you picked ain't cheap but in my eyes worth every penny and is one of the best out there, although depending on needs and how much you like to spend, a 21.5" version could be interesting too. I have now a 24" but would also be happy with a 21.5".

+1 on Windows 7 64Bit, also for the chipset drivers of the mobo and that CPU, plus you don't want to loose 0.75GB of RAM to a 32Bit OS.

Most cards these days are sold with a VIA chip and I think that one can be used for 4 ports, there is a NEC (D720101GJ for example) chip that can be used up to 5 ports, so we need indeed know what is written on the chip on that card...

The Non-HP version does seems to have the same voltage regulator for the CPU, however, the motherboard you use might not have all the CPU AGESA code (so, it could be missing some settings for a CPU to be used) as it is a chopped version of the ASUS BIOS. Now, what would you like to do with that system? To gain speed you might be better off putting in more RAM and/or a late model SATA HDD. What André and CoffeeFiend said has some truth in it BUT you will need to replace the whole PC and that was not your question indeed: "should I trash my old PC and by a complete new one?"...

Well, I mend "or" not "both" , small investment and the OP could still sell what was left over. Intel is pushing S775 out and has raised prices on that platform; before you could get an E3x00 CPU for 35-40USD and a G41 mobo with DDR3 for 45-50USD. This makes buying a CPU with mobo combo with S775 less attractive indeed. Low power consumption is why I swap my computers with G41+E3200 (DDR2 and 2 years in use) for i3 2100+H61 chipset (DDR3).

Are there jumpers on that card? Sometimes you have to "tell it" to use the internal port and not one of the external ports.

Get the Gigabyte GA-G41MT-USB3 or so if you want to start overclocking, but like Coffeefiend says it is better to get a 45nm CPU (E3500 or so) as you will benefit more from it.

WTF?!

.... and heaps of them saved by replacing the fuse on the keyboard DIN/PS2 connector.... I remember a period when there was a "repair shop" in the city that sold for sixpence "dead motherboards" (something like the equivalent of 2 or 3 US$). On average I would say that 7 out of 10 had been replaced because the keyboard fuse was blown or the BIOS had been zapped by Chernobyl or a variant of it. (and this is enough to describe the technical level of the self proclaimed experts that ran the shop ) jaclaz Indeed. And not only Chernobyl or a variant, but also the user that flashed the BIOS wrong. Most of what I see of failing stuff is just USER ABUSE... Remember when S462 came in? People were scraping the PCBs with their cooler-clips and breaking the lines near the socket on them; ASUS got so many returns from us that they finally put a sticker under the socket clips. Even I p***ed my self from time to time to get that cooler on right with a screwdriver (or 2 ) without shooting out and taking out components (extra points!).

I can tell you that Dimming (dynamic) screens are way more annoying than just a constant backlight, even the edge-lid ones that have local dimming are annoying. I have the 2443bwx (I got the one with pivot) and it uses 50W max., so they say, must be a later model than yours. When this one dies I will go IPS, Dell or so , with LED just to lower the fuel cost and by then there won't be much CCFL left . EDIT: Is yours an VA or ISP? Those use more fuel as well indeed, nice.

I thought I'll throw in my 2 cents: a- response time doesn't matter that much, to be honest, this ghosting an lagging people are talking about are a thing of the past, unless you real picky and like to measure it and compare screen by screen differences. b- LED are no better than CCFL when talking about quality, but, LED uses less fuel, say a CCFL 24" screen would normally use 50W and a LED with the same size about 30W. c- Plasma loses it "darkness", s black will get dark-grey over time and they still have a hard time to tackle that, so, LCD is still the way to until some technology like OLED is widely available. d- I would buy an after-market stand and a IPS screen, pricey but worth it, and pivot that screen (and video card setting). e-z Ask yourself how good the colors should be, think about Color Gamut, viewing angles, real bit-debt of a screen; I for example would go for good viewing angles so IPS is more a less a must, they have a good Gamut range and are in general 8bit. I have at the moment a Samsung TN screen that does 6bits but with a special technique to emulate higher color debt; to tell you the truth I never thought that 6bit would look that good. And CRT... well... sorry but there is just simply no compare to a LCD screen when you do design, CAD stuff and other fine pixel needed work. But that is just me ...

Solved, but how about you help other members and visitors that could had or have the same problem? Just think about it forjonny...

Should not be a problem to mix different sticks, just put the slowest one (slower timings) in the first row and the faster one (this is why it might need 0.1v extra) in the second row. When your system is unstable just set the voltage to 1.9 in the BIOS. You could run memtest86 (free and can be installed on a USB stick to boot from) to test if all works as desired.

Sometimes companies use each other technology, re-brand and number chips and so on. This would be the most logic explanation. By the way, if you use those cards just don't install the whole driver package but just point windows to the .INF file and let it use the wireless manage from windows and NOT the trash that came with the card; I've had many problems with the utility that came with those cards. EDIT: unless you use windows 98 .

Happy birthday to ALL of us! Sure, Trip and me first , thank you guys!

AMD ships their APUs and a lot of new 11.3" netbooks are released with it, heaving a HD6xxx series video onboard.

There seem to be 2 different models of the EA-650, one with 2x 12V lines and one with 3x 12V lines; If you have the one with 3x 12V lines I would get a 800+W to replace it. But if it's the dual rail one, also called the green one, I would just use it as it will provide enough power.

westom, welcome to the forum and thank you for bringing up the most important part of protecting electronics equipment; the sine wave output, or also called by many manufacturers the "pure-sine-output". --- Any way, why put so much money in protecting just a basic computer? Backup those nice pictures and other media on a second PC and you will be safer . Get a cheap dirty USP that just keeps your PC running for some time.

That 650W PSU is enough even when you use 20% more voltage on the components, no need for an upgrade really. Combined those two 12V lines I think still will do 54A or so.

And also change that power supply unit and check for bad capacitors.

As far as I can see all should work fine, but, you might need to set the HD / AC97 in your BIOS. Or, if it's Realtek, in the red speaker icon you can find a setting to set it to AC97 or HD. Electrically it's compatible so don't worry about that.

Personally I would look for a 11.6" to 12.1" and an AMD based APU (GPU/CPU), so you are not stuck to the horrible 600p vertically; those extra 168 pixels vertically do help a lot. So, a screen that has 1366*768 plus most of those models have a full size keys as well. Prices are some 380USD and up so i don't know if that would be in the right price range as a simple netbook is about 250USD. The weight of a large netbook is about 1.5kg, same as most other mini-notebooks. While ACER isn't mentioned, I would check them out also. HP and Toshiba are last on the list of recommendation.