puntoMX

The nVidia 7050PV/630 chipset has native video over HDMI but does not include audio; there is a signal coming from the realtek sound chip that gives you "digital stereo" on the HDMI. Reinstalling the realtek HD drivers might solve your problem, else install the nVidia drivers again. Set your Windows Sound Mixer to use the digital out (on the HDMI) and you should have sound with video on HDMI without using 2 RCA connectors on your amplifier, just the HDMI. Set the amplifier to HDMI (1, 2, 3, or whatever port you use). Hope that helps.

Hmmm... Seems that this "nuhi" is some famous guy here on the forums? Who is he? What does he do?

I was about to say to try a different video card, if you had one... but again, why would we bother any more as you simply fail to listen to knowledgeable people. Closing topic.

ODD is Optical Disc Drive: (Samsung) TSSTCorp CDDVDW SH-222BB, but that one has no problems with ACHI.

Older chipsets don't support ACHI indeed, like the Intel ICH7 and older and chipsets before AMD SB700 (let's forget nVidia and VIA here). It is posible to re-enable the windows "IDE mode" drivers again in the REG. When windows is installed with ACHI enabled, it will disable the "IDE mode" drivers with a flag in the REG but the drivers are there. Yes you are right, I wasn't clear about that; only when there is a second controller you can do that (common on most higher-end mobos).

Give us your complete list of your components please. ODD drives sometimes don't like ACHI, this is why I said it. Sometimes you can disable ACHI on ports 5 and 6 or set the ODD on another controller.

I wonder if it's even harddisk drive (or SSD) related at all and the OP has choose a poorly title for his topic. How about a complete hardware list up-first. Something isn't 100% compatible in the hardware setup and I'm 99% sure it has nothing to do with the HDDs, from experience. You could disable ACHI on the ODD (I would, no use for it, could give trouble). I would think it's some interrupt misplaced from something on the PCI-E bus...

Sell in parts on ebay to get the most out of it and use that cash for your new build, but, the system is good for averyday taks like non-game or any heavy modern programs (3D, video editing, etc.). You can still use the Windows 7 license for your new system (might have to call MS for an activation). You might like the housing, that's not worth much on ebay. Do you have a good reputation on ebay? If so than put 4.95-9.95USD for shipping on each part and let people bid on it.

Ow for F... sake, , yes you are right, they did that to not use the word male or female as in times like these we may not discriminate between male and female (or do we? ), so just let us give it numbers and the whole thing is solved... right...

Local AUS store will have that for a few dollars, did she see what it said on the label of the PSU?

That looks like a C5 to C7 than, but indeed, the plugs you guys mentioned (lol @ Mickey Mouse )

99% it has or it must be a very old notebook (the other 1%), what's the model of the notebook? Most of the time you have 2 cables; with 3 holes (with earth-pin) _o_ o_o -or- with 2 holes (without earth-pin) o_o and she can buy one of those in a local store in AUS. Most modern notebooks use the 2 pin powercable that goes into the PSU.

- Or, you just take the laptop to Australia and get a new cable there (from walloutlet to PSU, not including the PSU), might/will be easier. 99% Of the PSUs do indeed autoranging from 100 to 240v 50/60Hz like jaclaz stated already (he wrote 110, but it's 100).

That video card, is it active cooled? 1.25v (stock voltage) on a HD4650/4670 heats the system up nicely with it's 65-70W TDP, you could loose some 40W of heat there with a new card (with teh same graphics power) or get a 85W TDP card that has way more balls and won't be at 101%+ GPU when you play a game . (5770/6770/7770/7790 cards are cheap on ebay). I would take out that 80GB 65ºC out too (VM-ware test drives or not, or what ever you use it for).

Buy the ones that accept lower timings as well, 1866 CL9 is slower than 1600 CL8 (when you benchmark it). 2 Good sets: G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) and one of it's best for it's price: CORSAIR DOMINATOR GT 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (only if you really want to play with high clock speeds on the RAM, best RAM I ever played with).

For SSD: I would go with an Corsair Neutron Series GTX or SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series, you can't go wrong with one of those.

No, no need to wait, if you need than buy it. When you OC a "K" labeled CPU, you do that with the multiplier of the CPU, so you would set it to 46x (100MHz) for example (34x stock).

Remember that the memory-controller is build in to the CPU, for the Intel® Core™ i5-4670K Processor (6M Cache, up to 3.80 GHz) it states: "Memory Types DDR3-1333/1600". Intel always liked tighter timing better than higher bandwidth, and that's just a fact that you have to accept. There will be still a LGA1150 "E" type CPU and after that it seems like the end for LGA1150 and with that almost the end for DDR3 for intel based systems for mid- to high-end systems.

Thermoelectric cooling (Peltier) based cooling too, plus there are self-cooling surface techniques as well that go under the ambient temperature (still not real common but it's there). And with that, we will close this topic and leave it as it is. If the OP simply ignores the human factor, then there is nothing we can do for him/her. CLOSED

Why would it fall short? Your whole system is made for 1600MT/s. It's slowly the end of LGA1155 too, your next build probably will be based on DDR4. You won't be OCing the RAM, you might try to find lower timings if possible to get a snappier system. Not so overclocable has nothing to do with it (and I OC all I can on my personal system so I know what I'm talking about, doing it for over 20 years). The chips on a 1600MT/s stick can even be the same as on a 2133MT/s stick... Yes, that´s what I said, also said to get 1600MT/s 8-8-8-24 (or lower like 7-8-7-21) timed RAM @ 1.5v (clearly NOT 1.65v) The problem is, that you buy your parts in the local computer store, so we can not tell you what is best what they sell.

You could make your pick out of some enterprise SSDs, they should be more durable by design, cost also a lot more.By the way, I don't need a pagefile on my system, just making sure I have enough free memory (RAM), and yes, I use photoshop CS5 to make big banner ) 6 by 3 meters 72-96dpi banners with lots of layers. For the Photoshop scratch file I use a normal, old style, hard-disk indeed.

What there is to look at in case memory block were large (the last number? 24 vs 27?) I work a lot with Photoshop, Maya, Avisynth, and that kind of heavy stuff, would these use large blocks? About SSD, I'm really not concerned about speed, be it x8, or x16 speed boost. Even a x4 speed increase is enough for me, I want a snappy windows response, and programs that don't take ages to launch, boot times shortened as well. I'm gonna get that with any SSD, so what I'm looking for is resilience to wear, failed blocks, durability, etc No, no need to have a higher bandwidth, just go for better timings. It´s about timings vs. throughput, and you better go with lower timings and not with higher throughput. I'm not going to explain how and what a memorycontroller does (however, some one might have the time to write a few pages on this to explain it to you (no offense, it's just specialized stuff) . Get 1.5volt, 1600MT/s, 8-8-8-24 or better timed memory and you will be fine with the best performance for your new PC. SSD life depends on how you use it, write a lot on it and it will live shorter, so get 16GB RAM for the kind of programs you use and disable the "swap-file" and hibernate for example to get the best out of an SSD. There is no simple answer to "what is best", sorry.

TjMax for the FX-6300 is 70ºC when using it 24/7. 62.5ºC Is the upper "safe" level of the CPU. Use a program called Core Temp (don't look at TjMax there, it will say something over 80ºC), that one shows the CPU temperature and not the socket temperature. I don't have a FX-6300 on hand but these are the numbers AMD gave me.

Okay, so that's not the onboard fan header controller then. I didn't think it was some external fan controller.

Sorry, but those all-in-ones are just plain laptops in most cases (on the inside); when it breaks, it most-likely ready for the trash. Most of the laptops and AIOs are just made to use for a few years and even IF you take real good care of them, they will fail within 3 years as THAT is how they are build/designed. "The point is that Life is far too short to always be using technocrap." - and I call AIOs and laptops technocrap . I would go for a sturdy PC again; easy to repair if some part breaks down or needs to be upgraded for what ever reason. You will save some cash too (the wife will love that for sure ) on the purchase. Power-consumption can be the same as a laptop or AIO. The only question is, can you build your own or do want to buy an out-of-the -box PC?