puntoMX

Oh, oh. Rhetorical question detected Basic procedure , you know the drill. on http://www.ostendo.com/ there is no trace of it (compare with a Wayback Machine snapshot from 2010) http://web.archive.org/web/20100420025511/http://www.ostendo.com/ jaclaz Looks like the 3D hype and electronic paper must have put it a step back, 21:9 screens are now started to be released too so that also isn't helping CRVD.

Start with the intel Z77 motherboard from ASUS, Gigabyte and MSI, all re fine these days. I would also go directly for an add-on video card as intel 4000 doesn't do much with games. I'll post some models later today, after I got my main job done for today. Any price-limit?

Indeed, +1 on that one.

BIOS, well, slowly all is UEFI these days, older systems still have a BIOS.

If the CPU you use has a C2 stepping, it will have a 667MHz (1333 DDR) Memory controller onboard, 1600 DDR will be out of spec. You could try to set the voltage of the Memory higher, that includes the memory controller voltage and terminations as well. You would need to tweak it little by little to get the 16GB to work. BIOS update could help sometimes...

PC3200U-30331-Z is low density, but does this stick work in another PC?

You might be using a high-density stick, most motherboards will not work with those. What model/brand stick is it?

I would build something myself, like a Celeron G530 CPU, 2 or 4GB RAM (cheap), use the old laptop HDD to boot and the 4TB as you use it now. There are nice ITX boards for LGA1155 but they are more expensive than ATX boards so all depends on how tiny footprint you want the new server to have. The Celeron G440 even uses less power but is also a lot slower compared with the G530.

Even using 2 sticks of 333MHz DDR that don't have the exact timings will give you problems. All is stored in a chip on the PCB of the sticks that is called a SPD. Most motherboards will read the SPD from the first Memory Sloth so you would have the best success putting the slowest, lowest rated in DDR speed, stick in the first sloth. Set timings at 3 for CAS, RAS and C2R (CAS to RAS) in the BIOS. If you use windows use CPU-Z to read the SPD and see at what timings they run best. Use the highest numbers (highest latencies) to set those in the BIOS. CPU-Z should give you a range of options going from 200 DDR to 266, 333 and for the 400 DDR stick 400 too, logically. Note that sometimes CPU-Z will not show 333MHz but as it should be at 166MHz double data rate. Need more info? Ask .

Ah yes, the KT600 and the KT880, I knew they were there but forgot about them. It was when I moved from Holland to Mexico so I'm missing about 1 year of hardware knowledge... darn .

Most models that support 400MHz bus will be market as K7M400 or so, so it has the "400" in the model number. When you pick a used motherboard always pick the ones with good capacitors on them. I would go for sure with a VIA chipset although nVidia made some good ones as well but VIA drivers are better supported by windows.

I can't say much about fans but I know that the fans that come with the Coolermaster coolers are not the best and most get noisy (bearings) after just a few months of use, however, the retail coolers from them do work longer without making noise. Personally I like my fans to be easy to clean as I'm almost living in a dessert with a lot of sand and dust (leaving my PC in camouflage style) so the Coolermaster Excalibur R4-EXBB-20PK-R0 120mm would be my choice. I don't care about the color nor the noise from moving air. Still, I would use the stock fan on one side until it blows .

Better fans on both sides, other than that it's one of the best for it's price.

Welcome to MSFN! I too live in a country where it's hot almost all year, and thus I went with the Coolermaster V8; It's one of the best priced coolers that doesn't make noise at all. The water-cooling kits that are in the 60-150USD range I just don't trust as it seems to leak from time to time. A 20cm top fan is also recommended if it didn't come with the HAF922 already (I use HAF912 for my customers and myself and had to add one). What do you like to spend?

Use the 80 wire one, much better performance. If nothing helps, do a BIOS reset as well.

Most likely the RAM that needs to be reseated, I'm not joking. When you do this unplug the power-cord and push the start/power button a few times before re-seating the RAM. Also, check if pin 1 of the IDE cable is connected well; on most older motherboards it will not give you a boot/display when it's not correctly connected. If this is a working tool I would have replaced it with something less old, 6 years and older is just a timebomb, sure new computer can fail as well but the risk is slimmer and you know you need a not-local backup too. Why was the IDE cable replaced any way?

Apple is more exiting and you will sleep worse at night knowing it's full of security holes, but who likes a boring, sleep better at night, and safer life? This might be a licensing thing. I wouldn't expect MS to pay licensing fees for Codecs or other inclusions to a beta product. Well, it seems that MPEG 2 is an opcional codec in Windows 8 as well, so it could be that the ACM would be "sold" the same way. Seems that Microsoft doesn't like the crazy high fees for DVD playback. Win8 does support out of the box h.264, mp4, wma, mp3 and mpeg 1.

I have a Celeron D 3.2GHz running at 4.7GHz+. B) But yes, there is no life without overclocking and tweaking (and not only computers)! To bad my Celeron G530 (Win7 WEI 6.3/6.4) can't be OCed but will get a 22nm LGA1155 "K" series one of these days to hit 4.5 to 5GHz.

You are right, those are the VGA to TV boxes I was talking about, here on eBay you can get it even for 15USD with cables and all (how cheap can it be made?).It has a zoom function so you can fill up the screen a bit more, but no idea how far you could zoom in. Combine this with a late model cheap video card and you have all the benefits, even more than the nVidia 8600, for modern video decoding. You can even use the video card you have now and set it to dual screen (not clone). I would leave it on the whole time so it will remember the settings. I don't know what the menu button does but it can't be bad.

I have no idea why you would adapt modern technology to fit old technology, but it is your call. The reason I bought up a VGA to TV box (for 15USD shipped) was to use old TVs with modern computers, and you could have picked any video card even the latest released ones. So adapting the TV and NOT the PC with outdated stuff. On these boxes you can have over-scan, zoom, center and size options so you could have adjusted everything better than with your videocard drivers. You could have used that box even with your current nVidia 6800 card (or was that a typo and it's a 8600?). Buying a simple video card like a HD5450/HD6450 and the TV box would have given you: - HDMI output - H.264 hardware encoding - Lower power consumption (with a simple to-date card) - Much more video settings - Much more video filters - Better support for and from modern OSes (DX11) And there are much more reasons.

There are tons of VGA to TV boxes on eBay for 15USD shipped. I would not go for an old GPU that could only give you driver problems. What video card do you have now?

Forget that or get a new PC. Remote desktop will give you no useful framerate at all and can only be used for games like chess, let alone using the game pads.What hardware do you have now?

Get a new drive and save yourself the trouble you can get into, cost 8USD more but I can tell you it is worth it.And the 2 motherboards you posted, I would go with the ASUS with DDR3. The old ICH7 was the reason why I bought up to upgrade o a LGA1155 system, and sell the "old" parts.

What are the odds that both sticks are bad... but then, also both motherboards are doing different things. I understand if you like to save the most hardware testing it with some new hardware.

If you are happy with tour E6600 than would a G530, at the same clock speed, do for your tasks, you can upgrade later on to a 22nm CPU (still to be released). You might think that a Celeron would not have enough processing power but I can tell you that customers who bought it are not complaining at all, they are actually pretty surprised of the smoothness of their systems. The CPU can be as low as 46USD shipped, the cooler is small but more than enough as these CPUs use almost no energy. By the way, you might guess what CPU I have in my system at the moment .I would pair it with a motherboard that can overclock the K series from Intel, and can use the video card with the integrated Intel graphics together. Boards that have the Z77 with Lucid Universal MVP. Lucid Universal MVP features Hyperformance, which eliminates redundant rendering tasks and predicts potential synchronization issues in the graphics delivery pipeline, producing faster frame rates, sharper visuals and reduced tearing. Lucid had Virtu before on the Z68 chipset but it was not working as it should be, thus they did it better on the Z77 and gave it the "Hyperformance" etiquette. A board will set you back 145USD but it's worth it (Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H for example). Any DDR3 RAM will do indeed, you can upgrade later, 23USD for 4GB . So, total of 220USD on newegg, and seaching the net even under 200USD, you will have an upgrade that will give your PC life for years to come. The E6600 can be sold for 30USD on eBay, and even the non-working, as-is, boards are going for 20USD each there, even with bad luck you can still recover 50USD to 70USD there. If you want just a cheap solution, I would get a Gigabyte GA-G41MT-S2PT with 4GB DDR3, total of 77USD. * Note, all prices are plus shipping and tax. * Open box Z68 motherboards can be gotten dirt cheap at ebay, for 75USD you have a motherboard that would go for 150USD normal price. By the way, what is wrong with micro ATX? Has the same features just less PCI slots.