puntoMX

That is only when the wiring is AC-97 and not HD, so you disable the auto sensing pins on the mobo connector (and some rerouting for other pins). Just as an sidenote.

I even set my video card fans at a fixed speed. No need to have them running at a lower frequency. I thought you had a faulty PWM controller on your mobo that was failing from time to time, so, it's living with a cooking CPU or get it on a 12v line. Did you install all AMD chipset drivers by the way?

I could be wrong about this, but I think with laptops with built-in WiFi that the antenna is hidden behind the display, The old school WiFi add-in cards, for laptops without built-in WiFi, also had antennas sticking out of the card. Cheers and Regards You need a certain size of an antenna to get the power output, named in dBi. Laptops have indeed long, about 30cm / 1 feet wires, for TX and RX.

Don't worry about RAM troughput rates like 1866 or 2133MHz. You are using a CPU that does works best with 1600MT/s memory, but you can use higher rated memory if you want. What is more important is the voltage, yes voltage, that should not exceed 1.5v (or risk a damaged memory controller). Second, timings; get timings as tight as possible within a XMP-profile, make sure your RAM has an XMP-profile so the UEFI it will pick the lowest timing settings when you set XMP. So, an example: PC3-12800U, timings 8-8-8-24 (1600MT/s) will perform better than PC3-14900U, timings 10-10-10-27 (1866MT/s) (unless you read/write large blocks from memory, but normal users won't do that much). But, I would not ask too much or go to deep on how memory controllers work else you will get lost . New PSUs with 14cm fans make almost no noise, some have temperature regulated fans in them but it's not really needed as you won't hear a 14cm at a meter/3 feet or so, let alone when it's in a computercase. All are okay these days, but I would go for performance so look at the IOPS a SSD can do when reading AND writing, higher is better. latest gen SSDs are most likely faster.

72ºC Is too high, should be under 62.5°C especially with that aftermarket cooler. I would not use PWM connections on the motherboard but just set at least the CPU fan on a 12V line of your PSU, and if possible, do the same with the top fan to suck the hot air out of the housing. If it makes too much noise, start thinking about a case that has 12cm fans (a case with 8cm fans is a bit of an outdated design unless it's a real small case ).

Just de-install the AMD drivers and you´ll be good. They have been left on the PC when they took out the add-on ATI/AMD video card.

I just oxygen free copper, alu or silver, no gold. Watch the shadow lines on the screen when you use VGA cable for 1080p screens.

I thought it was the quantity? --- I would get a cable from Displayport to DVI, on ebay you can find solutions for under 5USD shipped like this. Should have come with the Dell... I do see a difference when I'm using a 23" screen on VGA compared with DVI/HDMI/Displayport (unlike jaclaz who must have had some beers . There are 2 types of displayports commonly found on todays computers, one is the normal displayport about the size of an USB port and there is the Mini DisplayPort (mDP) that is about half that size.

Darn, yes, they were put on sockets (or in sockets later on)... I have my share of doing the hot-swap procedure as well.

+1 on what Andre said. However, the HD7610M has these specs: 450Mhz core 800MHz RAM (1600 DDR) 128Bit DDR3 400 Pixel shaders 20 Texture mapping units 8 Render Output units DirectX 11.0 OpenGL 4.2 It will run most games on low settings @1366*768 due to the low GPU core speed.

Not at all! Good info comes from these posts we make... I hope . get a few new flash chips, a flasher and replace the "bricked" ones. Thats how I did it for Y2K upgrades 14 years back, and ow man, did I brick a lot of Dell´s and HP´s. Those were the days (and my first home computer (MSX )).

+1Seen on Samsung, HP and more screens...

+1Seen on Samsung, HP and more screens...

I might be lucky indeed, but I failed to brick any of 3 Gigabytes and MSI motherboards (MSI has 2 BIOS chips as well for example). I just wonder how some one can screw up 2 BIOS codes; looks more like an hardware failure to me .By the way, if possible I update the BIOS from USB with the BIOS/uEFI tool when the PC starts up; most new motherboards have that any way and it works great.

Now I must say that I do flash under Windows 7 when it's a better motherboard with 2 BIOS chips, I tried even to brick some motherboards and could not brick it at all (that was with Gigabyte mobos).

Always remember; updating the BIOS is a risk, a risk you should not take when the equipment works well!

Thats a long text. Did you install the chipset drivers that are found here?

I saw the "?" marks indeed, but I thought to go in a bit deeper to show other people that read this topic what a better compare is than "CPU-world" junk compare (good for a laugh, that yes ). I know some people don't want to spend on a PC, but not having money for it, well, come on, it's the first world over there or what? Here on the other hand, in a relative poor AND expensive country like Mexico, people also don't want to spend on a PC and go for a tablet for 60USD so they can do what normaly people would do on a notebook/PC. here people have to work 2 weeks to get those 125USD together, and after paying for food and rent, there will be 10USD left, taking them 6 months to get those 125USD together. This is why my business is partly based on used hardware. If I want to sell that PC here, I would sell it for 160USD (=2000MXN) but that is just because they are 3 years behind on computer-technology (and compared with the US, that system has a market price of 125USD over there. Besides that, I wonder what parts are "new" as in bought last week, the 9250 and IDE DVD-RWs are not in stock for a long time, the HDD must be from the HP, so is the mobo, CPU, cooler and all too? Simply said, it's used. New stuff with an open box is/has to be sold as "used" on eBay (or get lawsuites that cost more) (yes they use "new-other" on eBay as well, I know). Don't get me wrong, but Bonestone and I are systembuilders so we know the market (he in the USA, me in Mexico (and before in the Netherlands), so we know what a customer would pick/pay in most cases (plus I buy on eBay from people in Canada and the USA as well). I never mend to p*ss in your pocket but wanted to show you the hard truth .You can't sell it as "2 video cards" as the onboard is just a video out chip with shared RAM so to say. Even when you keep that system stored, the electronics will fail after time, starting with the capacitors (this also Bonestone pointed out) (think about batteries that leak after some time). To both of you, don't read my comments as negative, read them with a smile please, I´m just trying to help out here.

Submix8c, you are the first to bite , let me explain "why"; Step 1: The P4 dual core (Pentium D) at 2.8GHz will be beaten by a 1.6GHz Core 2 Duo. ( http://www.anandtech.com/show/2045/8 ) Step 2: The Core 2 Duo at 1.6GHz will be beaten by a 1.1GHz Sandy Bridge, mobile or not. For example: Step1: Pentium D 820 = 608 passmark VS. Pentium Dual E2140 = 899 passmark (cheap C2D) CHECK! Step2: Pentium Dual E2140 = 899 passmark (cheap C2D) VS. Intel Celeron 847 = 1036 passmark (cheap Sandy bridge) MATE! Soon my pocket PC/smartphone will have more balls than the P4 820 . Go figure, 2.8GHz dual core P4 has 60% of the "power" of an 1.1GHz dual core Sandy, sure, the P4 does heat up your computer-room at full power. Also don't forget that the new CPU has Virtualization as well. I do like old computer stuff, don't get me wrong, but potential buyers would think twice like Ponch said.

Nowadays I just install steam and get the free-to-play games; I must say I like WarFrame (still beta but plays fune, co-op too!).

Yes, all data will be lost with from what you were working on probably (some programs use autosave). There must be setting in the (U)EFI/BIOS for power-savings, S1/S3/S5 and "resume from..." so Windows 8 "understands" how to use the power-saving of your motherboard.

Why assemble? Just old school workbenchstyle for indeed that extra cooling . Yes you are right, add up 25USD (30 minutes time so to say), total 140USD. New PSU, that is another 15USD, total 155USD. I never said that old is cheap; I like to play with old stuff and make it like new, improve, tweak and upgrade (mostly RAM) as much as I can. But next time, ask you self if it's worth your time and money, as you were doing all of this just to make a few bucks (look on ebay next time for RAM, I got 4GB DDR for under 30USD several times when I needed it (bought last time 50 sticks DDR2 PC5200U Kingston, all the same model for 6.5USD a stick.). Now, if the HDD is also new, it would make 175USD, that would be a reasonable price. I just see it as a new car with a second hand, 8 year older, engine in it (without slapping you in the face). Don't rub it in . +1By the way, you can build a new system for about 200USD, starting with ECS NM70-I v1.0 Intel Celeron 847 1.1GHz BGA1023 Intel NM70 Mini ITX Motherboard/CPU Combo, ad 4GB DDR3 SODIMM to it, 100USD total cost, 45USD for the case (ITX), 55USD for a HDD or SSD. Uses 1/3 of the power if not 1/4, faster in most apps, and all new. Just saying.

Your motherboard isn't 100% Windows 8 compatible. I would try to start to disable "GIGABYTE SATA2" to start with and make sure you have your harddisks (ODD and SSD too if you have them) are connected to SATA2_0, SATA2_1, SATA2_2, SATA2_3 or SATA2_4. Do you have any other add-on cards plugged in? I don't see the hardware list...

3 Weeks later a "Mexican" walks in, says to the OP... (joking). Used stuff with some parts dated from 2005; 5USD CPU (on ebay with free shipping) 20USD MoBo LGA775 20USD HDD 250GB SATA 30USD RAM (4 sticks of 1GB I presume) DDR2 20USD Case + cardreader 10USD ODD (DVD-RW) together 5USD for the PSU (HP junk any way ) 5USD for the ATI 9250 PCI-E Makes a total of 115USD, so 125USD wasn't that bad at all, just my 0.02 (so 124.98USD left ).

Hard to tell what is wrong, but I would think it's not the head itself but the belt that drives it. You could try to replace the belt but no idea if you can get it on the market.