submix8c

Huh! Mine has 2gb RAM. SYSTEM.INI (inserted line) - [386Enh] MaxPhysPage=48000 <-try lowering thatSYSTEM.CB (full file) - [Keyboard] layout=kbdus.kbd [Intl] ACP=1252 OEMCP=437 SystemLocale=00000409 [boot] *DisplayFallback=0 [386Enh] MaxPhysPage=40000 Note that I also had a problem with "AGP Aperture Size" in the BIOS - had to use a value of 128mb. Also note I have an add-in AGP card thus the "stolen RAM" for onboard Video was "released to the OS". (My PC is listed in the GT 1gb RAM topic)

Simply put, I have seen OEM CD's that did NOT have a WINNT.SIF file nor the corresponding "special files". If you have one, the you SHOULD check to see if the Product Key is inside it. It's just a Text file that you can open with Notepad. If you do NOT have WINNT.SIF -and/or- the Key is not present then you're up a creek (so to speak) if you need to reinstall (for whatever reason). In fact, you MIGHT want to (if present on both counts) compare it to the results of a KeyFinder. And it was NOT about and nobody even suggested that.Your initial post was about "cloning" and "votes" due to "potentially" needing reactivation (with a to emphasize your of the necessity). It follows that you may want to ENSURE that you have a workaround. Humor me - check your CD's/DVD's to confirm you have what you need and I won't "bother" you with "superfluous information" anymore.

Professional or not, the "premise" is sound and you have not "proven" otherwise. http://www.thegearpage.net/board/archive/index.php/t-1036473.html This concept (which you refuse to acknowledge) applies to ALL cables, not just a Coax. Have a look at the construction of a Coax -http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_cable Can you say "SHORT"???? (come on, I KNOW you can... )

Ummm... one might ask what you would have done in XP. I would imagine the Pathname would be the same (e.g. %SystemDrive%)... After all, the $OEM$ folder contents copies the same way?

Google folder "$winpedriver$"http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2686316 http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dd744517%28v=ws.10%29.aspx Google folder "$oem$" "windows 7" http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc766408%28v=ws.10%29.aspx HTH

1 - Not "advanced" at all. Very simple. 2 - You may want that Key. Potentially, an "over-the-top" reinstall could be necessary. Again, at least CHECK to see if you have a file in the I386 folder of your CD's/DVD's named "WINNT.SIF". No, I won't go into the necessity and method of "over-top-reinstall" but YES that can be done as well. Ever hear of OS corruption and how to fix? IOW, you may want to read those links to understand how OEM works. This IS the Topic of this thread in relation to WPA and those links ARE relevant. 3 - As a general rule, the "Reinstall CD/DVD" (again NOT Recovery, which reloads an IMAGE that has extra "junkware") is NEARLY identical to a Retail/Generic-OEM. I have a Dell OEM MCE2005 DVD sitting right here AND the HDD has the "Recovery" image on it in a hidden partition. Better make sure your "clone" is an EXACT REPLICA! 4 - Not "almost identical"procedure - EXACTLY IDENTICAL. 5 - Worst case scenario - you DO need the COA Key (ref Ponch' comments) and you NEED to do an over-the top (re-initiates OEM install without loss of any changes you made) thus "bypassing" the problem which COULD be bypassed anyway by calling the "I want to talk to a person" Phone#. 6 - Point in fact - you've attempted to refute nearly every knowledgeable member here. I would say that implies you believe we're lying to you. Example - Reread the whole thread and tell me you didn't. Stubborn, aren't you? OK... here it is - Go Your Own Way and enjoy whatever might wrong, come back and ask for help, and not get anyone to help because you like to challenge the helpers.

Interjection (re - 512mb) - You can use an EBD Floppy and EDIT.COM to modify the appropriate files. See stickies. As for the other two items, as specified above. SATA, definitely - 137gb workarounds exist (again, see Stickies) although you STILL can only use the max. You have Win2k, so you could Dual-Boot and use the remainder as NTFS (will never be "seen").

You didn't read my last post at all, did you? Magic Jelly Bean is FREE! Indeed, there is ALSO several KeyFinder routines on MSFN.Scenario: I lose my Reinstall CD/DVD (notice it says REINSTALL and NOT RECOVERY) or it gets destroyed. I need another one. I look at the Forum and find there are Key Files on my Hard Drive that can be retrieved, along with a corresponding Like Edition of XP, and the Internal Key. BAM! I now can construct a Reinstall CD/DVD. I've had to do this before during PC Repairs and WOW! Yes, Dorothy the Key DOES work! FACT!!!! Here's one such Topic - Another - http://unattended.msfn.org/unattended.xp/view/web/29/ Another - Another - Proven wrong again by a total misconception of ANOTHER article found on the Net. You are more prone to acknowledge information from "elsewhere" and yet... YOU ARE HER BOTHERING US WITH MISINFORMATION FROM THERE! edit - ...and I thought I FULLY explained that in my previous post WITH DETAILS! Yep, we're lying to you.

(good gravy...) Here is a WONDERFUL pictorial on Phone Activation - http://www.examiner.com/slideshow/windows-xp-telephone-activation Ever hear of Google? xp "telephone activation" example Your Install is OEM (as you JUST stated). ROYALTY key! THAT is why you want to use a Keyfinder! (ref the I386\\WINNT.SIF file) 1 - Royalty Key, Internal used by Manufacturer/OEM 2 - OEM COA Key (Unique) 3 - Generic OEM System Builder + One or More Keys (each Unique) 4 - Retail Full Product Key (Unique) 5 - Retail Upgrade Product Key (Unique) 6 - Select Key aka "Volume License" #1 is UNIQUE between Manufacturers/OEM's and is used to ROLL OUT Images for the SAME HARDWARE (mass-produced) and uses a SPECIAL set of files UNIQUE for each MANUFACTURER. These do NOT require Activation on Initial Install but will be TIED to that PC (the WPA file). PLEASE REFER TO #2 BELOW! #2 is UNIQUE for EACH PC that the Manufacturer/OEM "rolls out". These are USUALLY put somewhere in a Hardware Audit System with the corresponding Serial Number/Service Tag. These keys are PURCHASED at a DISCOUNT since they are Mass-Producing Computers. #3 is/are UNIQUE and have NOTHING TO DO with #1 - These are "Mom-and-Pop" type shops that build-their-own. USUALLY the Key is supplied with a COA (it BETTER be) similar to #1 BUT they DO require Activation. #4/#5 is what YOU can/could buy Off-The-Shelf. They DO require Activation. #6 is UNIQUE BETWEEN CORPORATIONS and SIMILAR to #1, ALSO having a DIFFERENT SPECIAL set of files. This type is USUALLY used to UPGRADE their Corporate PC's but ALSO have to have a LICENSE (read as Unique Key) to be LOGGED in their Hardware Audit System for EACH PC (similar to #2 above). Clear? edit - ALL of this info is ALREADY scattered throughout MSFN and The WWW - you just don't want to investigate BUT you sure did "stumble" across the "votes" thing, didn't you?

(sigh...) REPEAT - that IS the OEM Royalty key... It is used to - INSTALL! It MUST be (re-)valid if the OEM's used it. I thought I made it CLEAR how validation works. I'll repeat it for your edification - 1 - XP is Installed with KEY of one of the following: 1a - Royalty/OEM (Internal) 1b - OEM COA Sticker, unique to THAT OEM PC (external) 1c - Generic OEM Key (similar to COA sticker) supplied with an OEM System Builder Kit 1d - Full Product Retail Key 1e - Upgrade Product Retail Key 1f - Full Product Select Key (aka "Volume") 2 - For 1b thru 1e, Activation Required, and you DO it 2b - (Post#13... two separate Numeric Codes, one you supply and one you get back) See? Three independent but interconnected values for Validation. 1a uses SPECIAL files to correspond to that Key to lock the OS to that Brand PC, as does 1f except it works on ANY PC. These do NOT require Activation (self-Activate). All others are UNIQUE and ALWAYS require Activation. NOW, re-read said articles... SO confused... (see above 1a,b,c - keyword OEM!) Did YOU install this Netbook or is it (OMG) Pre-Installed? If Pre-Installed it has a ROYALTY key used for Installation AND (as stated) it's USUALLY CLEARLY VISIBLE in "I386\WINNT.SIF" - bone up on that filename and the contents, will you?xmf= / / / / <-choose or select from drop-down... [sarcasm]YES, we are LYING to you! Don't do anything we say - we WANT your Computer to never work again.[/sarcasm]

WUD uses "ULZ" files, which are nothing more than ZIP files. Download one, rename from "something.ULZ" to "something.ZIP", unzip and look inside. Construct your contents in the same way, ZIP them the same way, rename to ULZ.

Post #10 above - the link has a link to - http://support.microsoft.com/kb/822798 Have you tried that? You're doing random things... What has IE8 have to do with anything?

I have not done a Win7/WinSrv8 Install as-of-yet. I can say this about $OEM$ folder and transfer to HDD during install (at least for 2k/XP/2k3) - When the install is from CD/DVD, the $OEM$ folder is on the CD/DVD ROOT, and contents within will copy to the HDD. When the install is from HDD, the $OEM$ folder is placed within the HDD "I386" Folder, and contents within will copy to the HDD. This is according to the $OEM$ naming structure as indicated (what copies to where), e.g. $1 transfers to HDD ROOT etc. It appears you're "rolling out" remotely from HDD, so... (I386=SOURCES? ) HTH (and you'll get more specific or I will be corrected from someone who has used this method)...

No.How sad... @jaclaz - Apparently so... (submix8c wonders if that's why the topic was opened) 3. Cable IS good. Front panel I don't know, but I assume it is. 4. This I didn't say. You are speculating. There are several things that could be wrong on this connection. Sound card, front panel, active speakers' DAC, active speakers' amplifier. Basically everything EXCEPT the cable. What on earth could be wrong with the cable ? The only things required for a cable are to make good contact (it does), to have a good consistency throughout all it's length (no reason to suspect) and to be able to withstand the amount of current/data transferred (oh yeah, good, thick cable). 3. See? You said it again - "ASSUME". so you NEVER disconnected it (SHORTS, dude).4. I dare you get a brand spanky new one, stomp on it, or twist it a couple of times. This type of thing is exactly what causes a SHORT (there's that word again) between internal wiring. Remember the example I gave about 4-hour time waste? Simple continuity check on one end ONLY to see if there is FULL OPEN (a new word for you). Wires CAN go bad INSIDE the "heavy duty" (I thought I clearly pointed that out to you). Speculation - NO, A DISTINCT POSSIBILITY. Not necessarily, it all depends on the type of damage. A damaged speaker cone might only sound bad at certain frequencies and/or volumes, for instance. Googleloudspeaker constructionNope, just CAN'T fail, right? We've had to disconnect a single "dump" (bottoms/subwoofer) box before a gig, leaving one double-15" on one side as opposed to two due to "rattling"/"buzzing"/etc to get through the gig to prevent being FIRED/BLACKBALLED (remember?). To summarize - 1 - Cable<->Front COULD be bad (untested ASSUMED good) 2 - Coax<->Speaker COULD be bad (untested ASSUMED good) 3 - Coax<->SpeakerConnector (on the Speaker) SHORT (untested BACK OF SPEAKER) 4 - Speaker Partially Blown (coil rubbing - untested ASSUMED good) 5 - Speaker Amplifier Failing (untested ASSUMED good - see #3) ---- (also note that same problem of Card Dirty/Failing is same as Speaker Amp) 6 - Speaker CircuitSwitchBetween(INTERNAL inside Speaker) failing/shorting between Analog/Coax 7 - Speaker Crossovers (internal) FAILING See all of those ASSUMPTIONS? Big Fail, in my book... Seems to revolve around the FrontPanel/Coax/SpeakerFailure. My money (ASSUMING #1 #2 is good, as YOU assume) is on some Speaker Component failure (see #3->#7). You sure have a lot of faith in those Active (nearly unheard of Brand) Speakers, don't you? At the price they charged, I would suggest replacing them with Name Brand (e.g. Bose). Funny how the OTHER Output -> POWERED-receiver->UNPOWERED-speaker works just fine... One more troubleshooting tip - raise the Gain until you hear that "whatever" and listen CLOSELY to each of Low/Mid/High. Whichever one is "whatever", it's just THAT part of the Speaker that's failing OR the Crossover Burned Out and is allowing Low->Mid and/or Low/Mid->High, thus allowing a Frequency through not meant to be there. Crack open the Boxes and disconnect THAT Speaker inside and see if it STILL "whatever". (Didn't research Crossovers either, did you?) (Yes, Speakers-aka-Drivers can be replaced with equivalent or slightly higher powered @ same Ohms.) BTW, I believe I stated you DO have "Pro" equipment - correction: Semi-Pro. Sennheiser, BTW, is top-of-the-line and not too cheap. You provide a Name Brand Sound Equipment (any kind) and I've probably used it. ===== Might want to LOCK this topic as it's becoming an exercise in futility...

1 - Nope, not a stretch - it "devolved" into it.2 - MS First-Level Rep (somewhere on the other side of the Pacific, no doubt)? Those have real genius (called a Q&A "handbook")! 3 - Never said that - there are, however, implications based upon this topic. You never said that the (unknown) Netbook was OEM-anything (going back through your old posts). 4 - You acknowledged in your first post it was a KEY, different than Product ID and Activation Code (those are what you supply/get when phone-activating). Correct terminology and AGAIN the Internal Key (if indeed pre-installed) is different from the COA key (says so everywhere on the net). 5 - Not if OEM Pre-Install or Single-Used Key - just make a phone call (all of which I gave a link to) in case. It was suggested that you retain your original HDD just in case. If your COA key is "gone" then it's STILL highly recommended to use a KeyFinder FIRST. Your choice.

Says so right here. Serious misprint. Seems all of the Review website made the same mistake. One must "assume" that joel96 reinstalled WinME but neglected to install all of the VIA drivers? I would be interested to find out if this is the case. OOPS! Spoke too soon! This speaks of an "Asus AVL-VM boards based on the KL133". Look this over as well (ViaArena IGP Drivers). The only driver shown necessary for WinME appears to be a Video Driver. And requesting Win 98 only provides Keyboard/Mouse. That's downright weird since I had THOUGHT that Via Drivers were necessary in the first place. Good Glory! I can't even find the Motherboard - it just HAS to be (willing to bet) an Asus. Usually you can inspect the MoBo and see what name they go by (FWIW). Nope! more than likely Trigem (?) Santafe-L. http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Document.jsp?objectID=bph07900 Does the above look like it? Still... that would be USB1.1... Edit - I see you guys have that "sussed" for potentially correct USB1.1 Support.

Win2k-SP4 and up only. Same answer given at Walmart. Canon Pixma MP250 - http://software.canon-europe.com/products/0010752.asp

COA (sticker) key has nothing to do with phoning MS for activation. That one is your PC's key and is unique to your PC. 1 - Needs Activated - Phone MS with phone# given on the screen 2 - Provide the string of numbers displayed to Robo-Voice 3 - Robo-Voice provides a string of numbers back 4 - Activated You're mistaken about "uses volume license key". That's a misnomer... How To Activate XP A better term is "Royalty Key". Use the KeyFinder to get that key (different from the COA sticker).Here is a set of phone numbers to help you out. Worst case, you contact a real person and explain that this is a Pre-Installed OEM PC and the COA is worn off. You've posted Topics on SSD (and Alignment), "XP or Windows 7" on a "New Desktop" you were going to purchase, and previously problems with XP on an Inspiron 6400. I will assume that you didn't buy this one. You also spoke of a Netbook here. Before that you inquired about nLite and a Dell OEM MCE. Can we assume that it's indeed the Inspiron and Dell MCE that we're speaking of? If so, your "Royalty Key" is already embedded in the WINNT.SIF file (at least MINE is) and that should be the key used, so you SHOULD have no problems with MS whether Re-Activating or calling MS to talk to a Live Person, although they might argue the fact that you used nLite.I would tend to agree also with Ponch (ASUS? where did you get that from?) in that even though the COA is worn you should still have a Serial Number or Service Tag Number somewhere proving that you're legitimate but the COA Sticker is toast. Heck, you could give that and a scan of your Dell XP MCE OEM CD (more than likely a DVD). You're seriously freaking for no reason IF you're legit with a legit Notebook/DVD combo.

You're wanting an opinion? Whichever works for you.

1 - Never tried ActiveSpeakers<->LineOut#1 in back (AFAICR) w/Cable<->FrontPanel Disconnected 2 - Never tried Active Speakers on another Computer (beer must be too expensive) 3 - Repeatedly insists Cable<->Front Panel is good (assumes, natch) 4 - Insists FrontPanel<->Coax<->ActiveSpeakers is good (assumes, natch) * - Unknown if Active Speaker Amplifier or Speakers is/are "blown" (see above...) How odd! I have Active Speakers (powered) attached to my "on board" Line Out - no clipping? My guess is the Speakers and Speaker amp is... GOOD! (as well as the "card") OUCH! Turned it up TOO LOUD and it CLIPPED (dang! blew amp and spkrs!) submix8c said (never) "I want this guy as my roadie"... (4 hours later after troubleshooting, finds mic cable plugged into snake is bad; band is p-o'd because late start and docked pay - Sound Company, LLC fired from job and black-balled with other Bands...) (spammer had a question but never posed it - similar to this topic...)

??? Post #7 and Post#9... YES, Mozilla is disabling! Did I mention "Click To Play" ? See this - https://blog.mozilla.org/security/2013/01/11/protecting-users-against-java-vulnerability/ edit - forgot to mention - Java Platform SE U38 6.0.380.5 (IOW 1.6.0.38) on Firefox 11.0.0.4454 and NOT disabled! From Post #5 Everyone in a Tizzy (latest EPA-approved automobile).

You must have used an Adapter. So you never did test with the I/O Drive cable disconnected (*optional) and try connecting "Analog Speakers" to "Line Out 1" (which you can do).More good info here - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line_level Have fun and HTH.

Garbage-In, Garbage-Out... High Volume Recordings are already at clip-point. (Gain Structure, which you refuse to acknowledge...) I've been instructed to not debate with members that just won't listen. HTH

Seriously find it hard to believe that the Drivers are somehow "branded". Would it be possible to give us a SPECIFIC "Error Message"? Your initial post is really vague.