submix8c

First, nLite is not for Commercial Use (you said "office"). Second, BSOD 7b is technically "0x0000007b" and further info is given, which you failed to provide. Third, that's "basically" Inaccessible Boot Device.

NO it is NOT the same! Follow the links I gave, do some reading, AND follow the NUSB Install Instructions (right in the links - REQUIRED or FAIL)! The Instructions given to you was NOT for the Sound Card! The only other item that MIGHT get you (???) is an IRQ Conflict (but BSOD???).

Yup - Instructions for Install is right here along with the download. Here is what's considered to be the "stablest" version (same topic, first post) and same instructions. Also go here and start at Post #858.

HFSLIP Version you are using? http://mimo.zxq.net/hfslip-downloads.htm

GOOD GLORY!!! WMP=Windows Media Player! DO NOT USE WinAmp for the time - REMOVE FROM EQUATION! It has a GAIN BOOST in it!!! * - SCREW "how good it sounds" we want to ISOLATE the CLIP problem! 1 - DISCONNECT all Wires from Sound EXCEPT the SINGLE REAR ONE (Analog) to the Active Speaker 2 - Use Windows Media Player - DISABLE the EQ - Set Volume Level LOW to start 3 - In your Creative Sound Control Panel - DISABLE the EQ - Set Volume Level LOW to start 4 - In Windows Volume Control - Set Volume Level (ALL of them for Playback) LOW to start 5 - If the Creative Sound Control has ANY BOOSTING OF ANYTHING - DISABLE IT/THEM 6 - Set Active Speaker Volume LOW - if ANY EQ on it (e.g. Bass/Treble knobs) SET TO CENTER (Flat) 7 - Using Windows Media Player, play an MP3 that is NOT recorded at a Low Level (go to ANY Music website and PICK one) * - Do you get CLIPS? 8 - If so, then there is (probably/maybe) a problem with Hardware/Cables/THE SPEAKER 9 - If NOT, continue SLOWLY adjust EACH Volume ON-BY-ONE upward 10 - Repeat "9" - WHICHEVER one CLIPS, then THERE is the "clipper" (IF you started from No Clip) I specifically stated (ref your Post#13 which I cited) that a LOW RECORDED sound that you ATTEMPT to COMPENSATE FOR LEVELS by PUMPING IT UP will CLIP!!! GAIN STRUCTURE! Bad Recording = Bad Output - GIGO (Garbage In Garbage Out)!!! Do NOT test with one of those - test with a KNOWN GOOD AUDIO! WHAT makes you so cock-sure that there isn't a SHORTING between Wires in the CONNECTORS? We have had to THROW AWAY some "good solid pretty-on-the-outside" Speaker/Microphone/(etc) EXPENSIVE cables due to INTERNAL SHORTS. GOOD GRAVY, maybe the WHOLE FRONT PANEL is bad causing a SHORT in the CARD!!!IS the Front Panel ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to test the Line Out in the BACK? If not, DISCONNECT FROM CARD! This will PROVE whether it's STRICTLY the Sound Card (at least the Rear Out, if nothing else) or "something else". Your Sound Card - http://support.creative.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?catID=1&CatName=Sound+Blaster&subCatID=208&subCatName=X-Fi&prodID=16559&prodName=X-Fi+Platinum+Fatal1ty+Champion+Series I'm ALSO betting that you NEVER updated your Drivers (from Creative - see the link above). "Front Panel" photo inside this - http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=232407 Indeed I found this www.creative.com/oem/resources/SoundCards/SB046x.pdfthat tells me that the Console you spoke of MAY be another piece of Hardware that you failed to mention (?). I have looked at the JPG from the Post#13 and it APPEARS that you need NOTHING connected EXCEPT the Line-Out#1 (there are THREE) to the Speakers. THIS should suffice to test AT LEAST THAT (according to my ABOVE INSTRUCTIONS). Here is a Quick Start Guide http://static.tigerdirect.com/pdf/CreativeLabsSoundBlasterX-Fi-Fatal1tyQuickStart.pdfIt indicates a MANUAL.CHM that should have been on your Install CD. FOUND the manual - http://www.filetxt.net/txt/61c76d39h32i0 Indicates problems with Clipping on Vista (older drivers?) - http://www.rage3d.com/Board/archive/index.php?t-33918675.html Something/Tip (see post#246)? http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?p=3368680 ISOLATE by REMOVING ALL BUT BASICS!!! If you REFUSE to try what I tell you to AND report back, then I REFUSE to assist further. Either do it or not. Your choice. "I tried EVERYTHING but what I was told to try..." EDIT EDIT EDIT!!! In the Manual, NOWHERE does it say anything about connecting Coax (Front) to Speakers! I also went ahead and looked up the Genius SP-HF 2020... How ya got THAT set up (seeing as how IT has EQ as well). (can't find the MANUAL...) If the SWITCH in back changes from Analog<->Digital IT could be bad!!! Use ONE only!After all of this digging, I would say you DO have Pro Sound Equipment.

From post#13 Did you look over the Gain Structure stuff? This is what I've been harping on all along.I repeat, take any/all mixers out of the equation except this - use WMP with NO EQ and the Creative Mixer with NO EQ and DO NOT USE WINAMP at the moment. Use ONLY one connection into the Active (powered) Speakers, not BOTH. HEED THE GAIN STRUCTURE (read that stuff)! IF you "simplify" the "chain" you may better be able to identify the source of the problem, be it Gain or Wiring. We don't even hook up all of the Inputs to a Mixer until the Output Chains have been confirmed AND start at LOW LEVELS (InputGain+OutputFader) on a SINGLE CHANNEL using e.g. a CD Player with LOW LEVELS at the Master and LOW LEVELS at the Amp until it's confirmed that the CABLES are good. I also note that you specifically stated that Front->Receiver(EQ and all)->Passive(with built-in Crossover Lo/Mid/Hi?) seems to work OK. Obviously the Denon is powered SO, maybe the Active Speakers have failed (or cabling to them?). re - Equalization - Google graphic equalizer smiley faceand tell me what you find out in addition to the Gain Structure hints I gave. Based on Post#13, I'd say your "low level" recordings are one of the sources of your problem (GAIN structure). S-I-M-P-L-I-F-Y with a GOOD source sound for isolation.

Not a "Theory" - fact (if you read the links). "Chain" - I gave you an example (from your own chart) - A->gazintaB->gazintaC->(etc). / A=Front Of Chain (obviously). If it has "degraded over time" then there is a PHYSICAL failure. Even P.A. Power Amps eventually fail - an expensive proposition for an Engineer and his own equipment. SOMETIMES a good "clean" will fix it, but is a component is failing, then there's no other recourse. And we DON'T "double-overall-EQ" at all, but ONLY at the Channel (a SINGLE INSTRUMENT) and EITHER the Submasters (GROUPS of Instruments/Channels) on Inserts OR the Final Stage (JUST BEFORE THE AMPLIFIERS, but BEFORE THE CROSSOVER). That's why I SUGGESTED removing the WinAmp EQ plugin (you can ALWAYS put it back - it's an "extra"). The whole fact of the matter is that APPARENTLY your Sound Card has "goodies", including an EQ. Heck, even Windows Media Player has an EQ built in - my sound card does NOT have the "goodies" - only Dolby (basically a kind of Crossover) for LF/RF+LR/RR+CTR+SUB and I EQ ONLY ONCE into Powered Speakers (has Base/Treble Tone knobs I set CENTERED, i.e. "FLAT"). Double-EQ defeats the purpose and Gain Structure DOES dictate "a little Gain on the front without a blinking red clip light" (this is the initial Signal) fed into ANOTHER piece of the chain "pushed up until the signal is "amplified" (it's allowed to be BELOW zero) which is fed into the NEXT piece (etc etc) until AT THE SPEAKERS (the MASTER Volume/GAIN). If you want to "argue" with a Pro Engineer, find another. I've said my say and am absolutely correct. Read the links to see if I'm wrong. Seriously, I've run sound for Hall Of Famer's - take the education or not, it's up to you. P.S. if you STILL don't believe me, Google gain structure guide and see what you come up with.

Nope... will tell you this - 1.0 RTM - WXOPK_EN <-Volume Label (didn't retain the actual download) 1.1 SP1 - XRMOPK_EN <-Volume Label (didn't retain the actual download) 1.5 SP2 - xpsp2_2180_usa_x86fre_opk <-filename ?.? SP3 - Windows_XP_Service_Pack_3_update_OPK_english <-filename You had to sign up as an OEM. BTW, the OEM OPK's for any DROPPED SUPPORT ServicePacks aren't there anymore. The SP3 one is still there (supported). Enroll here - https://mspartner.microsoft.com/en/us/Pages/Membership/enroll.aspx That's all I can tell you. Beyond that you're on your own...

You missed every single point I've given. DO NOT use EQ except at the end of the chain. FLAT EQ or OFF EXCEPT the Last In Chain - CUT the Lows/Highs and FLAT the Middle at the END EQ. DO NOT run the Gains HIGH at the FRONT of the chain. Start LOW at the Front and work up at EACH POINT IN THE CHAIN. Speakers WILL Clip/Overdrive due to CHANGES at ANY point in the Chain, REGARDLESS of the "volume knob" on the Box. The FRONT Volumes WILL DISTORT NEXT IN CHAIN! Boosted Lows on the FRONT WILL CHANGE THE LEVEL ON THE FRONT! TRUST me on this! AGAIN, Mixers have SEVERAL points that can go wrong. If I BOOST the Level on the (e.g.) Kick Drum, it WILL Overdrive the (e.g.) Master Out and CAUSE DISTORTION! If I BOOST the LOW on the Kick it RAISES THE LEVEL (the Frequency Range at which Kick is at) of the GAIN (input) and DISTORTS. THE SAME CONCEPT APPLIES!!! Hint - RAISE the VOLUME at any given point in the chain and tell me what happens. RAISE the LOWS at an given point and tell me what happens. IN PARTICULAR do this at the FRONT of the chain and tell me what happens! Download this and look it over http://www.offbeat.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/eq-chart.pdfAlso look at this and this Distortion Wiki and this Clip Wiki. Here's a couple of TIPS that specifically tell what the effects of boosting BOTTOM will do - http://abletonlife.com/how-to-control-the-low-end-in-your-mix-in-ableton (specifically references PREAMPS, which is what the FRONT of the chain is) http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_amps/bass_preamp_guide_1.html ANOTHER one that clearly states the effects of BassBoost - REALLY, you just don't get it. GAIN and FREQUENCY (boosting any give one is... GAIN for THAT one only) will cause CLIP/DISTORTION - PERIOD! In particular, its the PRE's that cause it, the POST's just COMPOUND it! NOTICE! I have found that WinAmp has an EQ Plugin. You ALSO say that the "MS Sound" ALSO has an EQ (probably for THAT SOUND CARD). - REMOVE THE WinAmp PLUGIN and tell me what happens. I ALSO notice you have both Analog AND Digital into your ACTIVE speakers - SURELY you don't have BOTH activated at ONCE!!! THIS is what you have - GAIN(how many "faders")->EQ->GAIN(how many "faders")->EQ->PwrSpkr(GAIN) Your GAIN is too HIGH somewhere in the FRONT!!!!

Hmmm... "Method 3" - did you check your BIOS and/or RAM to ensure that you haven't done some mismatch/fishy stuff? Acoording to the Manual, you can change things in the BIOS (and there are JUMPERS as well). And I've found a couple of articles on the RAM. Are you SURE the RAM is good/matched? Take a look at this. (WARNING - Tom's will require you to use something OTHER THAN IE, because it doesn't work in IE! The Website barf on it!) edit - This provides more info on the STOP error (different OS, though).

Specs for your MoBo (more specific than what you've provided). I also found the Manual by a search on the MoBo name you gave and it appears that is indeed the last BIOS. Soyo is apparently out of business(?). I had a newer model that used an AMD Sempron and fortunately got everything BEFORE they went "south". You COULD try getting the "correct" drivers via Wayback (see first link to get the various websites).... Hmmm... Have you tried integrating the VIA Chipset Drivers into the Install? (here is another location of stuff) More here on Apollo Pro133a Chipset.

FYI - you're getting spoon-fed the correct drivers since the HP Specs page doesn't specify which piece of hardware has been put into it. Theoretically, you could have gotten them on your own because all of the Downloads are given off the links of this page (where I had looked in the first place). BUT... whatever - you're getting there! You could maybe even install the Net Framework v1.1 to facilitate the installation of the Catalyst Software. @Tripredacus - this is a different Member that inadvertently hijacked the thread (see link to the Notebook Model). No biggie, though... AMD site specifically says Catalyst works on XP (see 2nd tab). Hmmm... This says YOINKS! 7670M isn't listed!AHHH!!! I found some "modded" ones here. Use at your own risk! @Gabriel - Don't forget to say Thank You to the members for their efforts after everything is "working".

Video cards have their own GPU/RAM so doesn't count. If it's OnBoard, it usually "uses" part of the RAM as it has none of its own ("shared"). Many MoBo's with OnBoard allow adjustment of the RAM it "steals" from Main RAM. You have gotten only partial information - Real Video Card vs OnBoard Video card.

1 - use EQ only at END of chain, either turn OFF others (preferably) or set FLAT! 2 - Did it occur to you that Speakers will distort/click if OVERDRIVEN? (did you notice the Power/WATTS examples I gave?)

Google "group: validating" site:msfn.org Each is a different Member - Post 11 - Post 13 - Post 775 - http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/71861-windows-media-player-10-addon/ A couple more maybe?... Did something happen to the Database? A Hiccup? Does this present a "hole"?

First, forget it - I'm not necessarily an "expert". Second - I have no clue why this "condition" exists but simply deem it irrelevant as this seems to be prevalent and a workaround has been found. Happy New Year.

So... can "Validating" login and post? If not, how can several be posting?

It's not "resistance" we're discussing in relation to the cleaning. It's a dead-short where one shouldn't be. Glad you finally see the light. Professional or not, the exact same concept applies. You just CAN'T plug a speaker (powered) output of an el-cheapo plastic stereo into the input (line in) of another el-cheapo plastic stereo and not get distortion out the it. If you have "looped" one Software Mixer into another one there will be distortion if you "push" the first one. Example - I had two low-power el-cheapo guitar amps. I chained from the Speaker wires on Amp-1 and input it into Amp-2 and plugged my Guitar into the Input of Amp-1. Yes, it worked BUT I had to put the FIRST volume low (first in the chain) and pumped up the Volume on the Second (second in chain), If I pumped Amp-1 up TOO high, it would distort and could have potentially fried the circuits in Amp-2. Example 2 - Put Powered Speakers behind a Powered Sound Card (Speaker Out, i.e. NOT LINE OUT) that used to exist AGES ago. The POWERED Sound Card would DISTORT the sound of the POWERED SPEAKERS unless the Mixer Output was set LOW enough to prevent the distortion THEN the Volume on the Speakers was turned up. Do read up on Cascaded Amplification. It IS the same concept regardless of Pro or not. CONCEPT still applies... don't fool yourself and TRUST a REAL SOUND ENGINEER! Google cascade amplification distortion P.S. This is the exact same concept that's used for a Distortion Pedal that MOST Guitar Players use. Happy New Year.

@bphlpt - Yes, you KIND OF have the idea. And I find interesting that Receiver + Passive Speakers "doesn't manifest", implying that the Active Speakers are being... OVERDRIVEN going IN (e.g. from one of the PRIOR stages OUTPUT)! The SOUND TESTS (those wave "test files") that were suggested IMPLIES that you use a PERFECTLY FLAT EQ, otherwise you DEFEAT THE PURPOSE OF THE TESTS! A Sound Engineer sometimes employs a dB Level Meter to ensure Lo/Mid/Hi are of equal dB for each and REQUIRES that you start FLAT-EQ to adjust them. The EQ is to adjust INPUT and NOT OUTPUT - that's why Mixers have a SEPARATE EQ for each Instrument (or Voice) Channel BEFORE it's fed to the "Overall EQ". BTW - 0-db is incorrect... depending on the next Hardware, the OUTPUT is usually -10 or +4 (there are actually switches on the back of Pro equipment to set that). As for the "Mixer", the dB-Level (e.g. 0-db) has NO MEANING in this case and SHOULD always start at NONE and work UP (as I have already stated). GAIN is the PRIMARY INPUT and depends on the RAW SOURCE and EQ on any GIVEN "channel" DIRECTLY AFFECTS GAIN, especially Lows will BOOST and CLIP!!! This will BLEED into the other ranges! As for CLEANING, I thought that the reason was thoroughly explained (even from an Engineer perspective). DIRT across the Traces on the Board WILL CAUSE CONNECTION WHERE YOU SHOULDN'T HAVE IT. Jeez, why don't you just put a WIRE between PC-Board Traces - same effect!

One might ask oneself - what difference does it make unless you plan on buying another, in which case the fix is there? Do you think we all buy these things en-masse to test them? You have the solution. Done!

@allen2 Forgot to mention - I went to HP for that Model and the one I referred to was "sp55977.exe". SO... it seems that they MIGHT be available? Try it (either/or)!

1 - Makes NO sense! What do you MEAN? An XP-SP3 ISO or the SP3-PACKAGE?2 - aclntusr.exe= Altiris Client Management Suite / kusrinit.exe=The Kace KBOX Agent... Did you install a WAREZ???

LOL!!! dyentrush Spammer? Isn't this how XRumer works? Get into something simple to "open the door" then flood? First post and glad for... WHAT? A nonsensical discussion? Which part helped you out? Please enlighten us and maybe that part can be hilited or made into a Sticky.

Yes, true. However, as I said even after switching to XP at that time it STILL "dropped" (and this was on CABLE) so my belief is since it works through the "cloud" that 1 - IP is Logged for "cloud" interface (pass-through) between PC's 2 - If Server, "drop" 3 - If Same IP (assumes STILL SERVER), "drop" I even used the "Portable" one in both cases. Once your IP is logged as a Server, you're gone. Advice - do NOT EVER fire it up on a Server, even if it's Home Use as it does NOT matter. Apparently they see "server" as NOT a Home User (even if that's what you use it for). Strange that any PC that Serves a Website wouldn't be considered a Server. Again, this is NOT a "Direct Connect" but you DO go through THEIR "Pass-Through"... You <-> Them <-> Remote Just be aware and enjoy. It is a nice tool (better than RDC and easier/safer to setup/use).