rendrag

Did you try pinging the default gateway? you could try a completely different IP address range for the network at home, maybe something like 10.0.0.1 for the router's IP. Then you'd have to reboot both computers (or release and renew the IP addresses of the connected computers)

are you sure about that? If the drive wasn't built to use sata, and you have an IDE to sata converter, what speeds up the data transfer? It certainly isn't the IDE/SATA converter.

PSU: enermax, vantec, antec. the PSUs from those companies are moderately priced, and are excellent power supplies.

you could check the switch documentation, if it auto-mdx's, you wouldn't even need a crossover

a quick google search brought me the following sites that i think will be of use to you: http://www.atpm.com/network/files/mac_pc.htm http://macs.about.com/cs/tipstutorials/a/xp_osx_sharing.htm There are ways to set up internet connection sharing, however it gets complicated, especially with someone without a lot of experience with networking. given the price of today's routers, it just makes sense to get one. It gives you a built in firewall, IP addressing to the computers so they can get on the web, and a host of other features depending on the router. manually configuring a computer to act as a router takes a lot more work. I couldn't find anything on mac/pc internet connection sharing, however manual IP addressing netted me these results: Apple: http://www.prairienet.org/~mcc/AirportFTPSetup.html MS: http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,1759,1768885,00.asp

-I've played all sorts of fast-paced media on my pc: cs: source, bf2, and a bunch of movies. I've never noticed any ghosting. - I haven't really noticed any color banding at all. - ViewSonic has some options, you can do an automatic color adjust, or manually set it. I just left it at default, and it looks correct (compared to 3 other monitors showing the same object) - I was suprised at how well this monitor handled res changes. native is 1280x1024, and even at 800x600, the picture is just a little blocky. previous lcds i've had have looked really distorted at low resolutions. just as a note, i'm using the DVI input. the only issue with widescreen displays is that if the game doesn't support it, it looks really bad. That was the reason I didn't go w/ a widescreen LCD good luck

i bet those sites are blocked by China

GuildWars!!!! It's an online game with no monthly fee... it's a great alternative for those who don't want to pay for a MMORPG (it's a blast too!)

i have the ViewSonic VX924 19" LCD, and I love it. http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?...N82E16824116355

yes there is... how are you currently calling your installs when they're on your hard drive? cmd file, runonceex, wpi? the short answer is you have to call them from the CD-ROM. If you're using runonceex, check this out: http://unattended.msfn.org/advanced/methods/runonceex_cd.htm

can't wait... should be great!

you'd honestly be surpised how much/little power your computer uses. My system (components below) uses about 175watts. You want to use only about 50% of your power supply's rating so it can handle power spikes (drive spinning up, etc..), so a 400 would be fine.

i don't see how skype will really be that helpful. sure, it's cool that people can call a seller to get a question answered about an auction they were interested in, however time zones and things like that I'm sure will get in the way. Plus, if a seller has a bunch of auctions, do they just sit around waiting for a ring ring on their PC?

good luck with that... you may have no option other than to hold the reset button (most for 30s) and reset it to factory defaults, inc. password

depends... there are web sites that talk about various tweaks to increase speed. one of the i believe is http://www.dslreports.com/

I've used antec, enermax, and vantec with glowing success. Thermaltakes are good as well, though no personal experience.

I have a pretty quiet PC. Case: Antec Super LanBoy. I don't go to LAN parties or anything, but it's a fairly compact (good for me) and well built case. Antec's site says the dB of the fans is nearly 40. To be honest, they seem half that. Both 120mm fans are super quiet, and keep the air circulating which helps keep internal temps down, which helps with the CPU cooling. On my CPU I have the Thermaltake SilentTower Heatpipe Cooler. It's kinda big, and I was a little nervous it would break off my mobo or something, but as long as you're not playing football (american or otherwise ) with the case it's in, you'll be fine. I love it. Fan speed is based on CPU temp, yet even under full load, this thing is barely audible over a low hum. I've used power supplies by Antec, Enermax, and Vantec and they were worry-free. My current PSU is one used by Ultra. It's an X-Connect modular power supply (review here). I have had 0 problems, and I love only using the cables I need, and not having to worry about hiding the extras. I don't hear a thing out of it. one thing you might want to budget in if you don't have one already is some kind of UPS (battery backup + surge protector). Especially if you're going to be dropping the kind of cash you are, you don't want to see it all go down the drain if a surge blows our your PC. I swear by APC UPSs. They've saved an old PC and monitor a couple years ago when my power company blew a transformer doing maintenance. Everything that was plugged into it was saved except the UPS itself, which I could easily live with.

even if you can't delete the folder, you could delete its contents, right? delete everything in here: C:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Start Menu\Programs and C:\Documents and Settings\<user>\Start Menu\Programs

very cool... thanks for the info

first off... waiting 5 hours and posting again how no one has responded is not the way to get help in this place. secondly... what installer are you using for your JRE? I use the one by RyanVM, and that works no problem.

could be a bad install of windows.... there's always the option of wiping and starting over again.

you'd have to do research on the web for blue laser burners... the vast majority of burners are red-laser. Once you have a part number, then you can get it from a supplier

closest i could think of would be to write a flash file to do that... unfortunately you'd probably have to write it yourself, or find someone on these boards that could/would write it for you.

agree w/ majority... pentium over the celeron

i would start with running ad-aware se and spybot search and destroy to see if they come up with anything. chances are, one or the other will see it. if not, get a hijack-this log and see if you see anything strange. you have to help yourself before anyone else will help you