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jaclaz last won the day on January 9

jaclaz had the most liked content!

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About jaclaz

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  1. jaclaz

    RAM Errors (Update: Now It's Much Worse)

    So, essentially it is what I would call a "high end (graphic) workstation". 64 GB of RAM are usually enough on those machines, but sure , if you plan on 128 GB you need to take that in account. I don't know about the investment value, ten years is a rather far horizon when it comes to computing, only three or four years ago buying a SSD would have had a rather steep cost, nowdays they can be had for (metaphorically) peanuts, compare with: https://blog.westerndigital.com/truth-ssds-hdd-vendors-do-not-want-you-to-know/ again an image is worth a thousand words (it is a 2015 forecast, but it came out as pretty much accurate): Actual prices last quarter: https://www.minitool.com/news/ssd-prices-fall.html jaclaz
  2. jaclaz

    RAM Errors (Update: Now It's Much Worse)

    Back to topic, I am a non-believer (not entirely unlike dencorso ) but what I don' t believe in is: a) that your PC (unless it is actually a high end workstation or - worse - a gaming machine) would actually need anything more powerful than 550/600 W, maybe 650 W b) that power supplies quality actually matters [1] Why don't you post your full specs and let us double check if you actually need an actual "monster" PSU? In my experience some of the "Online" calculators are sometimes way off and tend to be overly "cautious", i.e. the result may suggest a PSU that is much more than what is needed, even if taking into account some "spare". Getting double the suggested power is - let's say - conservative. Anything 750 W or higher is a "monster" in my personal opinion, being equivalent to 1 HP or more (an image is worth a thousand words): the thingy that produces hot air in your PC has the same power of a large mammal that can lift 75 Kg by 1 m in 1 second (and may weight some 400-600 Kg and eat 20 pounds of hay each day) jaclaz [1] This needs to be explained. With the exception of a - by now mythical - Epson (with a DX2 66 processor) that worked just ok for some 22 years (not all of them, but nearly all, 24/7) that I decommissioned (and it was still working just fine) only a couple years ago, I had several - in practice every - PSU in service I ever had fail, one way or the other and for one reason or the other, the sample size is in the order of a few tens of machines so relatively little, still .... ... I never managed to find a meaningful pattern: 1) I had "El-cheapo" PSU's fail 2) I had "Mid-range price" PSU's fail 3) I had "known brand" PSU's fail (though never used/tested the very high end ones that cost the same as a full computer) I had El-Cheapo ones last the same or longer than "high price/brand" ones and the (what would be normal) opposite
  3. jaclaz

    RAM Errors (Update: Now It's Much Worse)

    JFYI (and as a side-side note) it is a few years (I believe 2011 or 2012) that I sourced (for around 30-40 Euro each) some used "terminals" Fujitsu Futro S210/220/300 that sport : Transmeta Crusoe 800 MHz(entirely passive cooled) Internal PSU (no external "brick") Expansion slot (1) that I use for a network card. PS/2 connectors (besides Serial, Parallel and VGA) *like*: https://www.ebay.it/itm/Fujitsu-Siemens-THIN-CLIENT-PC-FSC-FUTRO-S300-800MHz-256MB-CF-Standfus-Stromkbel/233116340957? I replaced the tiny CF card with a 4 GB one and quickly and half-@§§edly installed on it Zeroshell and the thingy has been churning away 24/7 ever since. To be fair the first one was replaced by its brother a couple years ago because the PSU died (power surge/lightning). jaclaz
  4. jaclaz

    Am I Using UEFI

    Find bootmgr in root of your boot (or system or both) volume. Delete it. Reboot. If it doesn't boot, it is BIOS, if it boots again it is UEFI. Now, seriously. Have a look at your system volume (or boot volume or both), that may be either your C:\ volume or in case of GPT the "hidden" one. Unless it is a FrankenInstall, you will have EITHER : \bootmgr \boot\BCD OR: \EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi or \EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgr.efi \EFI\Microsoft\Boot\BCD And/or run BCDEDIT as follows: bcdedit.exe /enum ALL See (for more information): http://www.mistyprojects.co.uk/documents/BCDEdit/index.html jaclaz
  5. JFYI, one of the reasons why Italians do it incontrovertibly better is that it is already "incontrovertibile/incontrovertibilmente" in Italian . In this case we are nearer to Latin: https://it.wiktionary.org/wiki/incontrovertibile jaclaz
  6. jaclaz

    Windows 10 - Deeper Impressions

    Isn't it fun when data (real world data) completely contradicts what you have been told by the know-it-all guys till now? https://news.softpedia.com/news/microsoft-ironically-proves-forced-windows-update-don-t-make-any-sense-524897.shtml The actual .pdf has a lot on nice new words and concepts (at least for me), example: and it is IMHO worth some time reading: https://github.com/Microsoft/MSRC-Security-Research/blob/master/presentations/2019_02_BlueHatIL/2019_01 - BlueHatIL - Trends%2C challenge%2C and shifts in software vulnerability mitigation.pdf jaclaz
  7. jaclaz

    RAM Errors (Update: Now It's Much Worse)

    Hmmm. Actually *needing* a 850 W PSU sound like a high-high end gaming machine, and overclocking is so '90's . Are you really sure-sure you need such a powerful PSU? About the eraser, *any* will do nicely, we were just being a bit nostalgic of the good ol'times ... jaclaz
  8. Once said that having a C: drive letter for a Windows NT install on a multipartition system "forcing" a drive letter assignment is a good recipe for having issues - before or later - it is perfectly possible to make this forced assign, but of course you cannot have C: if that drive letter is already assigned to an existing partition. You cannot run the install from C: and expect that a different partition will get C:, you need to first "force" the FAT32 partition to get another drive letter and then "force" the NTFS "target" partition to become C: using a migrate.inf file: https://web.archive.org/web/20160817074749/http://www.911cd.net/forums//index.php?showtopic=19663 or hiding the FAT32 partition (and other partitions if needed) so that automatic drive letter assigning actually assigns C: to the "target" NTFS partition. jaclaz
  9. jaclaz

    RAM Errors (Update: Now It's Much Worse)

    Sure, it has become an "exclusive", "design" item. Look at the price of this (OK, it seemingly includes a sharpener, No, it is just the eraser): http://www.fabercastell.com/products/more-products/eraser/EraserUFOingiftbox/188306 The sharpener is another item: http://www.fabercastell.com/design/products/ufo-sharpener-eraser/SharpenerUFOingiftbox/188305 They should have IMHO have called it iEraser instead of UFO, but probably Apple wouldn't have been happy about that, and this is the other one, platinum plated AND fulfilling its task perfectly: https://www.graf-von-faber-castell.com/products/Eraserroundplatinumplated/188502 and now look at this latter's price: https://www.thepencompany.com/product/graf-von-faber-castell-round-eraser/ jaclaz
  10. jaclaz

    Official - Windows 10 Worst Crap Ever!

    NOT strictly Windows 10 related, still IMHO - more than preoccupying - terrifying: https://www.brentozar.com/archive/2019/02/what-queries-does-microsofts-telemetry-service-run-on-your-sql-server/ jaclaz
  11. jaclaz

    RAM Errors (Update: Now It's Much Worse)

    Actually you don't want a " too soft" eraser. You want a (very mildly) abrasive one, the best being one of those (that you can find not easily anymore anywhere ) round "wheel" ones once used for typewriters. This sort: https://contrapuntalism.blog/2016/01/21/faber-circular-erasers/ traditionally the white ones are softer/intended for pencils, whilst the red and blue ones are a bit stiffer and more abrasive (intended for ink/typewriter), Nowadays the more suitable ones are this kind of bicolour ones: http://www.foxystudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/187040_1.jpg and you want to use first the blue side and then the softer pink/red side. jaclaz
  12. jaclaz

    January 1st 2019 / still 4%

    Or, in nutshell, how can we turn the good ol' Windows 7 into a SAAS ? Let me think ... jaclaz
  13. I don't get it. It is not a "blank embed", it is the SAME link (and it is clickable), that the stupid board software insists on automagically transform into the stupid preview unless you are fast enough to tell it explicitly to "display as link instead", here are two times the same link: The above has been magically transformed, the below one is the same copy/paste BUT clicking on "display as link instead": https://msfn.org/board/topic/137714-install-xp-from-a-ram-loaded-iso-image/?page=8&tab=comments#comment-895119 It is entirely possible that some of the XP updates post 2009/2010 fixed the issue, good to know that it works on your machine/OS , as said it depends on OS (and possibly also on the specific devices, I remember the behaviour to be faulty also with USB ZIP disks besides my multimedia card reader). jaclaz
  14. @jumper The given example: https://msfn.org/board/topic/137714-install-xp-from-a-ram-loaded-iso-image/?page=8&tab=comments#comment-895119 is EXACTLY about that FOR loop, BUT (again it depends on the OS) that (the IF EXIST) might fail if some devices (that get a drive letter even if "empty") are on the machine. jaclaz
  15. It depends on the environment. The easiest would be to use a "tag" file of sort, Then you simply find the volume which contains this "tag" file, let's say it is a 0 byte file named thisisit.tag. The problem might be that in order to find the volume you need to list or check the contents of all volumes, and depending on the speciific OS there may be issues with devices that have been assigned a drive letter but that do not really "exist", a classic example is (again it depends on OS) those "media" readers (internal but USB connected) that sport a couple USB ports, a SD and a CF reader, etc. and with volumes with thousands of files there could be time issues. See starting from here for a few posts: Here is another approach (due to some issues in the nth board update the formatting of CODE contents has been ruined, so you will need some patience, after having done copy and paste to rebuild the actual batches proposed): In your specific case, I would rather check the Registry and get the drive letter associated to the Disk Signature and Offset of your USB stick, however (assuming that you are not going to change either). But this depends again on the environment and the device, you cannot use this method if the device is removable (or you can use it only to exclude non-removable devices). jaclaz