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Everything posted by bonestonne

  1. InWin H-Frame ITX case with 180W PSU Gigabyte Z97N-Wifi Intel Core i3 4130 4gb DDR3 80GB SSD Slim DVD+/-RW The wifi antenna has been changed to one that doesn't stick out of the case, because the system does travel a bit. Runs the SteamOS, I've taken over root access and have also added XBMC to the machine for streaming. Unfortunately, a lot of plugins have really poor support now. Dual Xeon rig is still my desktop, this is for gaming and HTPC usage only.
  2. If you have PS/2 port on the motherboard, that is the absolute easiest way to get around a driver issue like you're having. It will work in every OS with no driver issues whatsoever. Plenty of optical PS/2 mice are available from a multitude of vendors.
  3. If you're watching true HD videos, you are definitely reaching the limits of your AGP card. I would not call them extremely capable, and the cards will be good for "basic use" and not a whole lot beyond that. Considering how old the card has to be by now, I'm not really surprised that you're having trouble with it. Onboard video from the same era will pretty much perform the same, so you aren't going to really see an improvement for HD videos, and the cards getting hot because you're really pushing it's capabilities. A really high end AGP card would be okay with HD playback, but you'd have to look at newer hardware to really get better playback. LGA775 systems with either integrated graphics, or a PCI-e x16 card, and you'll get the performance you're looking for (and more).
  4. Pull the floppy out, pull the HDD out. Also try swapping the RAM if you can (or pulling it and seeing if it changes behaviors). Used to have a 560 myself, never got anything like that out of it.
  5. In the BIOS/EFI menu, you'll have to disable a feature called "Quiet Boot" or something along those lines. Secure Boot should never have really been included, that's a bigger problem with the PC market today, you could disable it, however all it would do is allow you to boot off of external devices much more easily (as well as boot media that does not have EFI compatibility). Sometimes this option is under a listing called "CSM." Quiet Boot is not available on all machines, as when an OEM manufacturer makes the BIOS for Lenovo (or any other name brand), there are requirements, and options that are "hidden" or permanently inaccessible by the end user. With something like that, it may be possible to look into a BIOS modding community, which could potentially add the features you're looking for, but this would depend on the motherboard itself supporting those features. Quiet Boot would likely just be hidden, but you'll have to dig around to see if it's in there.
  6. I saw something like this happen before in an Acer. Ended up replacing the motherboard because literally nothing I did was working. I ended up hanging onto the mobo just in case, and when I went back to it, several months later, it was just working. I would leave the machine unplugged and without power for a few days and see what happens. As Punto mentioned, check all USB ports for damage. I had a computer in recently that wouldn't boot with upgraded RAM because a USB port was broken and shorted. I suspect you may have a problem in there that you just don't notice yet.
  7. Haha, reported for helping...not sure how they've been able to stick around for so long without the banhammer coming down.
  8. Antec had cases that offered it a while ago, not sure if they still do, as many sport just rubber grommets for dampening. Upside down vs Right side up really doesn't make much of a difference in terms of life span. Neither does vertical vs horizontal. Think of it like laptops. They don't all face the same way because it doesn't really affect them. As long as they aren't in a place where they get too much heat they're totally okay. Drive failure is due to heat or violent shock due to dropping, hitting, putting down too hard, etc. All in ones are no exception to this. They typically have drives fail due to the massive amount of heat more than anything else.
  9. Well, outside of a liquid nitrogen cooled overclocking rig, I'm not aware of any machines at all that are capable of running below ambient temps. Take for example the ambient temperature of my house. 73F/22.8C, cooled by a very well maintained central air conditioning system. My CPUs idle at 36C and that is considered extremely cool for a pair of E2620's that are less than 4 inches apart physically, with two coolers with even less space apart than that. I may very well be arrogant, but you're simply ignorant. I gave you a lot of advice, but instead of doubting that maybe, just maybe you have bad hardware in your computer, you simply tell me I'm not listening. Who's not listening? No, I'm not going to comb through your posts because they aren't well thought out and are poorly organized and difficult to follow because you think you know so much. If your case is so special, why don't you tell us what it is, or better yet, post a picture of your computer as it is right now? I'd love to see it. I'll post a picture of mine too if you think that would be fair. Besides, your case has so many 80mm fans, why is that? 120-140mm is the norm, and rightfully so. The products I use certainly are not the cheapest either, but Arctic Cooling CPU heatsinks? What is this, 2002? There are so many better choices, and even better, they're in the same price range.
  10. Okay, my Dual Xeon E2620 system has a pair of 95W processors. By your math, and copying your build, having a 95W CPU yourself, I would require 10 fans to keep my system cool, when in fact my temps are lower than yours with less fans comparatively. If I'm doing something wrong, maybe you should give every customer I've built a computer for a call, and let them know that I've been doing it wrong all along. I've had two custom computers come back in 3 years. One had a fan bearing start to go after 2.5 years of being built (a byproduct of cheap fans), and one had a failing hard drive, which was the result of 1) the customer being the heaviest chainsmoker you'll ever meet and 2) a poorly kept, very dusty and filthy machine. I'm giving you some very solid numbers, 40C or below should be your idle. The "Intel vs AMD" cooling methods are the biggest loads of bullcrap I've ever heard of. Here's why... 1) Look at the lay out of the motherboard in terms of RAM, PCI Slots, VRMs, etc. Is it different between Intel and AMD? No. 2) What does heat do, according to the laws of physics? Rise. 3) What has made gullible PC enthusiasts still believe the fact that the two things that inherently operate the same way? The lack of listening to someone who knows better. I dare you to take my advice, remove some fans, use the motherboard controller for your fans (be sure to enable Q-Fan in the BIOS/EFI, and rotate your cooler to a proper orientation that would adequately support front to rear airflow. Also, you should remove the cooler and reapply TIM. Why? Because you sound just like all the **** kids I spend half of my days repairing computers for. Too much TIM is a bad thing. Too little is a bad thing. I don't think you know anything about building computers other than putting parts in a box. Why? Because you haven't done any real troubleshooting yourself, such as plugging the fans into motherboard for a while and see what happens. I would never trust a fan controller in the case to handle any fans in my computer for the simple reason that they're bundled with the case because they're cheap and the company can get them easily in bulk quantities. Clearly, it's not working out for you, yet you insist on continuing to use it. I mean, while I'm on a roll here, why isn't the side panel on your case? That severely disrupts airflow, so for all you know, that might be part of the problem. You most likely have a bad CPU, or a bad cooler, or the cooler isn't capable of dissipating 95W CPU heat. If your old CPU worked fine, and the new runs really hot, I fail to see why this thread keeps growing, if you clearly stated the issue. You need to be a bit more proactive about your problem because it has nothing to do with the fan controller. I would bet my $15/hour job as a computer repair tech that I could fix your issues in 15 minutes if the machine were in front of me. Oh, and I hold your comparison to a challenge. Give me a 1976 Corvette and a 1982 Buick Grand National. I removed two cylinders and made more power.
  11. So let me get this right...your motherboard is not controlling the fan speeds properly? Your terminology is confusing everyone here.... 1) Make sure you're not using 3 pin fans on a PWM header and expecting them to work perfectly. I have PWM fans that don't even report their RPMs correctly on a PWM header on the motherboard. 2) Why on earth do you have so many fans in your system? I have a dual Xeon system, and 4 fans. 5 if I count the power supply, 7 if I include the GPU cooler. One little FX-6300 is not pushing the heat of my two Xeons, so you have a bigger problem. Here's what you need to do: 1) When the temps report that they're rising, take off the side panel and put the back of your hand above the heatsink. You don't have to touch it, you will feel whether it's warm or not. If it's noticeably warm at a distance of 3-5cm (1-2 inches), then you have a big problem. You need to pull your heatsink and reapply TIM (Thermal Interface Material). I really like Innovation Cooling Diamond 7, I've been using it for a long time on my old machine and new one. It is extremely effective as far as TIM goes. Make sure your cooler is properly installed. All push pins are pressed firmly down and are seated properly, or the bolt thru mounting system is actually installed correctly. I had a machine come into work just today which had an i7-2600k and the stock cooler was never installed correctly on the motherboard. The TIM was visibly burned, and the customer is lucky the CPU still works. Make sure that your computer has proper ventilation and is not in a closed cabinet, and is dust free or regularly dusted in an outdoors environment. 2) Reduce the amount of fans in your system. Clearly you have too many, and it's not helping. http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/detail?sArticle=4.%3F According to the website, despite their ridiculous chart, you should be using the mounting direction B for Intel CPUs. If you're not, then you're pushing hot air all over your case, and that doesn't help anything. 1 rear exhaust and 1 top exhaust fan (if the case has top exhaust). No side fans, and no intake fans. Block off the side panel openings as well. If your system continues to overheat, you likely have a faulty CPU or Cooler. The FX-6300 should be idling below 40C with the Freezer Pro R2 in a test bench setup (no additional fans, outside a case). While I firmly believe that Arctic Cooling makes some crappy CPU coolers, you shouldn't be seeing temps higher than 50C unless you're under a full load (80+ CPU %). I guess I would also check and make sure that the cooler is indeed working correctly and the heatpipes don't have a hole in them. There's a fun way to test this if you're feeling adventurous. Take it out, clean it off, and hold the base against your forehead for 15-20 seconds. That spot should be pretty cold to the touch, otherwise you have a bad cooler. Also, I second using Core Temp to check temps, far more reliable than most other monitoring programs.
  12. I work in a repair shop for all computers, and the only brand with reliable all-in-ones are Apple iMacs. Sounds ridiculous, but it's true, because Apple doesn't use laptop cooling. It's based on the cooling of a laptop, but the fans are actually decent. Get a good mATX or mITX machine and a low end dual core Pentium, 4GB of RAM, and a small SSD (80-120gb). Keep a regular backup, and you'll never have an issue with that machine, and you'll never hear a sound out of it. Shouldn't cost you more than $600 in parts either as long as you shop around. If you wanted to buy one pre-built, look at the selection from Logic Supply. They aren't cheap, but have excellent support reps that will help you out. Those thin clients will do more than your wife will need it to do for years and years.
  13. I would never waste money on the Extreme Editions of any CPU. Simple as that. If raw CPU power is something downright necessary, I would suggest looking at a dual xeon system. Populate a single CPU socket for the time being, and add a second CPU later when you run out of power. It's a better upgrade path than trashing an entire system every 4 years. I modded the CS6 GPU compatibility file to include my GTX 660 Ti, and it was worth it 100$. Cheaper than any worthwhile quadro card, and allows me to also keep my temps and power usage down (all things considered). In Premiere Pro you can use the pre-render files to your advantage when doing a final export. This will be the only true way to take advantage of the beefy GPU which is only used by the Mercury Playback Engine. The playback engine saves pre-render files during the normal playback of the timeline, and you can select to use those when you use the export option. I strongly advise doing this to save time. You can do the same for nearly any nVidia GPU. The 3770T will be fine as long as you use a mid/high end GPU to compensate for the rendering. Support for the Mercury Playback Engine on Windows is limited to only nVidia graphics cards that use CUDA technology. Simple as that. Also, if you're doing a lot of rendering, I would go with 16gb minimum with RAM. The new WD Red series hard drives would make for good scratch disks as well. I had a pair of WD Blue 640's, so that's what I picked in order to save a little money.
  14. What video editing program will you be using? I do a lot of serious HD editing with Adobe Premiere, and it s a necessity to have hardware acceleration, so you may need to keep that in mind. The Quadro series is a massive waste of money, so just look at mid to high end GTX series cards for equal or better performance for the money and power usage. If you're looking to use the T model CPU, power usage should be kept in mind across the board, not just the CPU. I'm not sure I quite understand what having other 7 machines is important in regards to having another one, but whatever floats your boat, but the USB3 issue was part of what I had been thinking when you mentioned Vista. For a lot of VMs and video editing, 16gb will be useful then. For very heavy video editing, 32gb may be something important in the future. Web surfing and emails are irrelevant, even an Intel Atom can do all that. The focus is really Video editing and VMs. For the CPU running around $300, you could also look at 6 core Xeons, they're generally cheaper than the 6 Core i7s, but just as much power on tap. Nothing you're doing seems to rely on having a high clock rate, so having more cores may be more beneficial than a high clock rate (multiple VMs running at once would benefit most). allen2 mentioned the Gigabyte Z77X-D3H and it's one that I have used in the past and do like it's features, but that said, any Z77 should work fine for you, and be fully compatible going ahead with future upgrades. I would opt for mATX and keep size down, because it will help cooling (air cycles through the case faster) and you can also use a 350-450W power supply easily, 1-2 HDDs in addition to the SSD would do fine. No need for massive machines anymore unless having 7 expansion cards are important (don't really see that much at all anymore).
  15. What's making you stick to Vista x64?The hardware you've chosen so far looks good, but 8gb of RAM is more than enough unless you're going to be doing heavy video editing. You simply wont make any use of the extra 8gb at all. As far as a motherboard, any Z77 of choice would be great, I'm partial to MSI or Gigabyte. Are you going for an SSD for this build? Might be a good thing to go for if the machine is going to be completely current. Also, if you aren't going to need hyperthreading, the i5 series will be plenty good enough, as it's still quad core, and quite powerful. I would look at Win 7 or 8 at this point rather than sticking with the antiquated system that is Vista at this point (considering support will be ending in the not so distant future). For a better picture of what you need, could you say exactly what the machine will be used for? If it's not going to be doing anything demanding, even going with an i3 will be more than sufficient.
  16. $125 is reasonable for that machine. It is older, but it appears that it will still be useable and even reasonably snappy today judging by the specs. I would just double check all the capacitors visually, make sure none are bulging or leaking. If any are, that could be a dealbreaker, because the machine could just fail at any time. This is common with HPs and Dells from around that time from what I've seen come through my shop. As long as it's dust free and works, $125 is fair.
  17. What you should look for is ATX Desktop case. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811121010 While that's not exactly what you're looking for, it's close, and something you would be able to modify in order to be closer to what you're looking for. Searching for any Desktop style case will give you something to start with that's more easily modified than building your own.
  18. It's the NZT Source 210 Elite. Not that strange. Some specs: Asus Z9PA-D8 Intel Xeon 2620 x2 16gb RAM Gigabyte GTX660ti Windforce OC 2GB SIIG FW card Startech USB3.0 PCI-e card with front panel header Antec HCG-750W LG BluRay 16x burner Xigmatec SD1283 Dark Knight II coolers Thermalright HR-55 chipset cooler Windows 8 Pro with Media Center Pack Adobe Student/Teacher CS6 (Premiere, Audition, Encore, After Effects, Illustrator, Photoshop and Media Encoder. Other programs weren't installed because I don't use them). Reaper x64 Pro Tools 10 Other programs aren't really relevant. Additional 16gb RAM upgrade will be ordered on friday. I have an 80gb SSD to test with, but may not move to an SSD for some time.
  19. Does your monitor have a standard IEC power cable (three prong like what plugs into the tower) or a separate power brick? It's possible the voltage regulators are going, and it's causing the CCFL lighting to flicker out of a lack of power. I wouldn't consider this anything to do with the tower, just the monitor. I would test the monitor with another computer to see how it behaves with that.
  20. http://www.flickr.com/photos/29430563@N03/sets/72157632543083374/with/8410321734/ My current build. Some problems, not quite 100% finished, but the general idea. Things left: More RAM (ordering in the next week or so) Re-Sleeve PSU to black and white scheme Address motherboard/GPU issue regarding POST code 94 hang (I mostly ignore this as it only happens during post sometimes). The FW card may change, but for now, I'm happy with it. Strange problems with it, but nothing that seriously affects how things work for me. Lastly, I have to get a new External Enclosure so I have FW800 and USB3.0 for better transfer speeds for video projects. I currently have a FW800/eSATA drive, but it's not very portable. 1080p editing is very smooth, and I am enjoying the speed when rendering. That said, I default to my laptops for daily use, as this thing is a real monster, idling at 110W or so. I haven't had a chance to get an accurate load measurement. This weekend I have a two camera shoot, and my next small side project will be a video of a 1997 Mercedes convertible. Real treat!
  21. Working in a PC Shop, we have tons of grounded equipment, rubber mats on the benches, special floor mats that are grounded, ESD protective gloves, slip covers for shoes, the whole nine yards. Never had a problem. Working at home, with none of this, I've still never had a problem. How do you ground yourself? make sure you have the power supply in the case, plugged in, with the power switch set to "off." Work in the case then. Properly grounded with no potential of a charge as long as you touch the case before handling hardware. I don't feel as though this is necessary however, I've honestly never heard of static horror stories. I don't think it's a big enough problem unless you're working on shag rug in socks and you're wearing an exceptionally static prone sweater. That being said, I don't want to say that grounding yourself is unnecessary and you never should. It's important, but in my experience, uncommon.
  22. http://www.diskology.com/ I have a Disk Jockey Pro, and I could not tell you how many times it's saved client computers. Oh yeah, you get what you pay for. I cannot think of a single product that can match the Disk Jockey Pro. On the software end of things, Paragon Partition Manager can do what you're looking to do as well. Ditch Ghost, and pick up Paragon, get a Disk Jockey Pro for a backup solution. You'll be set. Both solutions are faster than Ghost, but beware, failing disks will take a very long time, and can give you untold amounts of trouble.
  23. Sounds to me like an Asus Eee Transformer nearly fits the bill, but 3g isn't there. I have a Dell Mini 9, and it's not the latest and greatest, but it's alright. To a point, it gets the job done. I've also worked on HP, Asus, Samsung and Toshiba netbooks. I would suggest buying a netbook that has an older Hard Disk Drive, rather than a Solid State Disk. The failure rate is not well documented, but I'll say that it's fairly common. There are people who take very good care of their computers, so they have been using Solid State for a while with no problems, however if you don't take care of it, it will last a fraction of the lifespan it should have. I liked the feel of the Asus and HP netbooks most. Samsung is a close second, but Toshiba and Dell netbooks lack a lot of quality you'd expect for the price. That said, my Dell Mini 9 has taken quite the beating, and still works well, but the SSD is being replaced. I'm the second owner, and the original owner/family had killed the SSD. As far as Linux support goes, Dell and Asus have the best support. Toshiba, HP and Samsung are all very washy. Some distros work well, others don't. If you're looking to use windows, then I would strongly suggest getting windows 7 basic for use on a netbook, as you don't have much in the way of resources to begin with. 2gb of RAM is almost a necessity, as 1gb will be sluggish. +1 on the keyboard and trackpad comment...89-92% keyboards are not good at all. I would venture into saying a tablet would suit you well, but if you have to do a lot of typing, or you need windows, most tablets don't fit the bill, and lack durability that's needed.
  24. Been proudly running since late August, and I'll run it until it dies again.
  25. I would make sure to run a cleaning utility like CCleaner or Norton Utilities to make sure your temp files are not what are bogging you down in normal usage. I've seen many computers that have just this problem on a daily basis. Basic scanning software such as SuperAntiSpyware will also benefit you, as there may be other crap on your computer that you're totally unaware of. I know I scanned all the computers at my house one day, and even my computer was not 100% clean, and I hardly ever use it for anything other than Pro Audio work at this point, having such powerful laptops at my disposal (Toshiba Tecra M11). No computer that's connected to the internet is immune to everything, and there's no saying the internet is the only way to catch any form of malware over time. If you think something is giving you a bottleneck, make sure it's not the OS first, because if you clean the OS, and it's still acting up, it's likely drivers conflicting. LatencyMon is a great tool for checking out driver conflicts for a DAW, it might prove to be useful for you as well. http://www.resplendence.com/latencymon

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