bonestonne

what on earth are you talking about? A FW400 card will run at 400, a FW800 card will run at 800. If you were use a FW400 device with FW800 via an adapter, it would be limited to 400 speeds. If you get a FW800 card, and put it in your computer and install the drivers, you will have FW800. There's nothing more to it.

LOL 60 amps. Not really. I just looked on nvidia's website for the GTX295, it says at full load the card should use around 289W. Well, since W = V*A, you take 289 and divide it by 12, and you get the magic number of 24.08A. That's clearly not 60. In fact, it's not even 60 for two. In fact, i just checked the nvidia website for the GTX275 you mentioned, it uses 219W at full load. divide that by 12 to see the amps, and the magic number comes out to 18.25 amps. Not sure where you're getting your numbers John305, but they aren't even close. And Punto didn't mean definite lifetime of the card itself, but the average lifespan of a gamers card....but consumer electronics usually barely last 3 years, so 5 is shooting high, especially because most people get upgrade fever.

Use a volt meter to check it when it 'works' i'm much more careless than you with my equipment, I've been fixing, and re-fixing my powerbooks power brick for the past month or so because i don't have the money for a new one (but i've got the time to fix the old one). basically, the battery needs charging, and i can't wait until tomorrow (with college and all in the way). The ground is probably touching another wire somewhere else which causes it to prevent the power brick from turning on. If you're not too worried about how it looks, you could always just crack open the power brick, and replace most of the power cable wire. It was simply for me with only two wires (so i made it longer as well). If your brick uses a 3 conductor or something, easily bought at home depot, or some other hardware/electronics store, just make sure the wires all match up. color isn't important, but + to + and - to -.

lol, well, if you need to save cash, realize that you've got basically got a pretty **** fast rig. i mean, your sig is out of date, but your rig is recent enough. With a Core 2 Extreme, unless you're willing to toss $600+ to replace your mobo, RAM and CPU....but honestly, not worth it unless you're going to be able to use it (blu-ray video editing or such).

dude, you are up to date. no reason to change that at all unless you're doing intense video editing. it's a monster already. besides, it's probably idling half the time anyway.

The Apple G5 series is a very touchy beast indeed. 1) If it's an Apple Virus, I'd love to know how it works. I've never seen an apple get a virus. I've seen plenty of other problems though. 2) The G5 series uses DDR RAM (I don't know exactly which speed) But unless I'm severely mistaken, they need very specific Mac RAM. You can't just buy PC RAM and put it in a Mac (with the older G4 series, which used SD-RAM, this was different, but once DDR came out in the Mac, you have to buy Mac RAM. You don't have to buy it specifically from Apple, online stores such as www.mac-pro.com have much better prices. 3) The cooler is most likely absolutely fine, but there is probably a lot of dust in it. I would strongly suggest taking it outside with a can of compressed air, and cleaning it out very carefully. If you have a larger air compressor, that would work even better in cleaning it out. The power supply is located under a panel in the bottom of the system, I would strongly suggest using compressed air to get dust out of that. 4) The G5 series came out in late 2005, so at the very oldest, the computer is 5 years old. The Intel version Mac Pro came out in mid 2007, so the youngest the G5 could be is 3 years or so. 5) With a Mac, not necessarily. The OS it has is most likely Tiger (10.4.xx). I'm still running Tiger on all of my Macs (and at my old school, only the newest computers that were shipped with updated OSes have Leopard). I would say it's not important to update to Leopard if the machine runs fine (once it gets fixed). Leopard has many update bugs, but I would say if you're going to do anything with it, do a clean install of the OS from scratch for better performance. 6) If you're looking at a real hardware problem, it would be with the Gigabit network controller (G5's and Mac Pros actually have dual ethernet) and this is located on the Logic Board (that's what apple calls a motherboard). Logic Boards are very expensive. If it's truly a fault with the Logic Board (which is entirely possible) it's going to be between $200 and $500 to fix, and finding the correct Logic Board is going to be a hassle as-is. Used boards will sell closer to $200, and new or unopened ones will be closer to $500. Macs are nice computers when they work, but are otherwise only good for burning a hole in ones wallet. My guess is that if the user is trying to connect to a private wireless internet connection, it's asking for the password to the access point, and that might freeze the system if it's wrong. It's also very possible the machine has bad RAM in it, or the Logic Board is simply dying or bad.

If you want to do a clean install, you can do so. Boot into your current Win 7 system, put in the install CD, and let it work the magic for you. You should be able to select clean install, in which case it will automatically change the boot sector to go to the CD upon a restart, and then it will take you through the install process. 32bit and 64bit aren't exactly upgrades of each other, so as long as you specify clean install, you wont have a windows.old folder to deal with.

dried up/crappeh TIM! take it apart outside (wear a coat) with a can (or 3 or 4) of compressed air. get arctic silver (common and cheap, even radio shack has it), and reapply the TIM on the graphics card. should work wonders for a plague of high temps.

I'm not sure, seeing a typo on their product page that's from a quoted source doesn't instill much confidence in me. I'd never heard of Gelid before either. One that I had done testing for, and may be worth looking into further is Innovation Cooling Diamond 7. Shaved a good 9C off my existing Thermalright paste with my E6750, and keeps my Q9400 with an original Scythe Ninja running at ~34C under regular usage (not idle, but not full load either). I can't say I ever used Arctic Silver on my current computers, I had some old tubes of it that I used with my older P4 rigs, but not anymore.

What type of hard drive is it? Who makes it? How is it connected to the computer? Does it work?

Does the motherboard have a firewire port on the back? if not, then your motherboard most likely doesn't support it, and you can't use the port. you'll have to live with it, and know the port will do nothing, and make sure other people know that. http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...ufacture=Noctua That's what I would go with given the choices...

lol, reballing jaclaz? don't you mean re-flow?

For me it was the 80+ cert. plus it's build out of more expensive components resulting in longer life when used 24/7 for example.Corsair 400CW is 80+

Why 550W? overkill...400W is plenty for this.

http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=333...mp;promoid=1061 http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=431...anufacture=ASUS http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=355...anufacture=ASUS cheaper, just as good.

if you look at my first post, you'll see a cheap route through this, but it'll be closer to $800. i picked a mATX mobo because of the price and available options, but looking at NCIX, the prices are nowhere close. one eVGA board is less than $100, every other board appears to be over. i suppose i have been lucky when buying my used parts from online sources, as i've never had a problem receiving them and making sure they work. I also tend to only shop Newegg/Petras Tech Shop because of noticeably lower prices, as well as Newegg's revised shipping policy now. ATi Radeon HD4650 should be plenty of graphics power 4gb of DDR3 RAM should be more than enough (but what OS is he running? x64?) 640gb internal drive space should also be plenty 400W Corsair is a great power supply, I use one myself, works beautifully, couldn't ask for something better (except for modular) I would suggest different cooling, but it's not necessary. I run my rig at full speed all the time, C1E disabled for no throttling, i changed coolers so I didn't have to hear the stock cooler at full speed constantly. a little late, but i would have posted specs before buying anything, but now it's a matter of building around the i5 while sticking close to your price range.

going cheaper than what i listed (for an i5/i7 setup) would be buying used parts, or downgrading graphics. I selected some because of current hype, graphics could easily be an ATI HD4xxx series, but for gaming, nVidia wont be as good...price wise, it's great, but i'll be honest, 96 stream processors vs a few hundred, that's noticeable to a gamer. I specifically didn't list a case with a PSU because i don't like OEM PSU's. I've had many problems with them in the past. if it's a computer for me or a client of mind, i will go out of my way to put in a quality PSU, even if it's at my expense because it makes a difference in quality. But, I have trouble believing that i5 is 15% faster than Core 2 Quads. Yes, integrated memory controller, but does that really make a big difference? Sure, maybe it's not something that could be called incredibly future proof, but LGA775 isn't dead yet, DDR2 isn't dead yet, and i'll be damned if i can find something an i5/i7 can do that my Core 2 Quad can't (realistically). Even from a gamers perspective, the lack of multi-threaded apps make it just as useless to run x64 as it does to run a quad core in even a gamers computer. but who am i to question the market for powerful computers that sit at idle 90% of the time? for a hardcore gamer, maybe it would be worth it, but for a light/casual gamer, technology that's current but not cutting edge is just as good, because how much of it will you really utilize? I say this completely aware of the system I'm running. I use my rig for lots of audio work, 8+ multitrack audio work. When I don't need the power, I have a 2005 Powerbook G4 that's more than capable of running Firefox and a messaging client or two all at the same time. I also have a VIA C7-D rig with a 8gb microdrive that uses 40W of power that can do just as much as the Powerbook. You don't need a quad to run internet explorer. Video games aren't what they used to be, a faster processor doesn't make the game faster. But hey, not my budget, i'm just being logical/realistic about it.

for that low of a budget (about what mine was) you could just go with Core 2 Quad. They're getting cheaper, and realistically, games aren't multithreaded and optimized for dual core, so having 4 or 8 cores isn't much of a benefit. P45 mobo, Core 2 Quad, 4+GB of RAM, 500+GB hard drive, case, PSU...you could easily stay under $500 for that if you buy used parts (i buy used motherboards). I use a Q9400 for audio work, and it doesn't give me problems, although I have hit some limits with it. Or you could keep shopping around on a budget that's going to be tough to hold onto without certain sacrifices (smaller HD, no SSD, no replacement fans, no CPU cooler change, etc and so forth). http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16813130256 - $100 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16820231277 - $94 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16822136298 - $60 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16817139008 - $50 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16827106334 - $26 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16814121356 - $145 +57.99 +234.99 ------- 766.99 before taxes/shipping

Care to clue us in on the problem itself? Not that I can read russian, but I got the same impression you did, but I don't understand what the problem is any better.

it appears to only be 100gb...which you can buy much more than that for a reasonable amount (i bought a 500gb for $80 + change last week). my question is, what's more important, getting back what you can right now, or trying to find the rest before going on, because that's what you're down to unless you just go out and get an external drive. many local stores can sell you a good sized internal drive, and you can pick out a good external enclosure while you're there, which usually comes out less than a standard external drive. you mentioned the FS was FAT, so you may try recovering what you can, and looking for alternate means of recovering the last partition?

Cooler Master Elite 330 Q9400 MSI Neo P45 8GB G-Skill DDR2-800 1x 250GB <- OS/apps 1x 640GB <-data 400W Corsair M-Audio Delta AP2496 M-Audio Delta 1010 ECS nVidia 9600GT 512mb HL DVD+/-R(W) Scythe Ninja Rev A (original) Arctic Cooling Accelero S1 Rev 2 Thermalright HR-05 -> thinking of HR-05 SLI for southbridge -> thinking of swapping both 120mm fans for Scythe 800RPM slipstreams -> thinking of swapping 9600GT for 4850 System works great for Multitrack recording, up to 10 simultaneous tracks, I do 4/5 to start, but got the 8 channel card for the sake of future usage. Cleaned up the cabling completely this time. Looks way better than the first system that was inside it.

http://www.engadget.com/2007/12/13/battles...ssd-raid-array/ bragging rights.

O_o i didn't say it was for SLI...i said you can use it to extend it...

Matrox Dual/Triple Head 2 Go systems. i've seen people use them to extend SLI across three 19" LCDs. 4800x1200px resolution. i'm sure it can handle larger, that's just the biggest I've ever seen. --- USB VGA adapters are becoming more common, but unless you need a card that's low profile, I'm sure you can pick up a dual head AGP card...I had an ATI 9650 I think it was? I put it into my older sisters computer a while, ago, but it's dual head. VGA, DVI and even has S-Video out.

maybe a dead topic, but the answer is no. mobile CPUs don't have an IHS, desktop processors do. the difference in the height of the CPU itself is different. you cannot interchange desktop for mobile in anything.