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bonestonne

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Everything posted by bonestonne

  1. quite honestly, its a piece of metal used as a loop that holds the clips in place. it's just soldered to the board, so if you had it, you could try soldering it back on (very carefully)...you could also use a different heatsink that just sticks on, or come up with some DIY attachment method. past that, there's nothing you can do without a warranty.
  2. check the hard drive priority in the card's BIOS. what's likely happening is that the card see's the new drive and changes the boot priority. all you need to do is make the drive with the OS #1, and you should boot with no problems. i have a similar issue every time i boot without my SATA drive plugged in. when i plug it back in i need to re-select it as the boot drive in BIOS. i'm not sure if that's a common issue, or a standard feature.
  3. having a DAW, my primary concern is audio...of course the sound card. next is graphics. past that, storage comes and goes as it must.
  4. i'm almost dead positive that it's interference from an AC power cable in the wall or something near the wall. i can't remember exactly where i saw it before though, i think it was at my school when we replaced an old dying TV, we rewired it and there were moving lines caused be electrical interference to both inputs. (its a 9 channel TV switcher with the worst rats nest behind it you'll ever see).
  5. i agree a lot with Zxian on this, about the upgrade path. at the same time, i have a question for someone with an old rig and a way to measure power consumption (no killawatt here). how does an old computers power usage differ if it has a new 80+ PSU under the hood? I'd love to personally see the results of this, as i have quite a few older computers lying around the house (as well as the newest computer in the house). may be time to get a killawatt and find out sooner!
  6. i second the 3870. 9600GT is tempting, but GDDR4 is better, and the 3870 performs better than the 9600GT. prices may be dropping, but that doesn't make it the best option.
  7. its a no-can-do sort of situation, the laptop would need to support video input, and that would only be possible through a PCMCIA card or USB (how would you do it internally?). basically you'd need to set up like, ViVo (Video in, Video out) on your laptop for that to work, and i've never seen it done.
  8. two companies, LG and Lite-On. hop onto Newegg.com and check out those two brands. you probably wont spend much more than $30 on it, but you have to always make sure your getting the right one (IDE vs SATA). as for the software end, i've never bothered installing the Nero that came with my burner, i just use the trial of UltraISO which suits me very well (i'm never really burning stuff other than pre-compiled ISOs anyway. if you need more than that, UltraISO is not terribly expensive to buy, and its an amazing program. Ubuntu is very flexible, and will have native burning support for both CDs and DVDs, so i can't say you'll have a problem with it there. In Ubuntu, on multiple occasions, it's told me that a burn has failed, but when i go test the CD or DVD elsewhere, it works fine. I have an LG DVD burner, and a Benq DVD burner, i'd suggest the LG over Benq.
  9. Western Digital, Seagate and Hitachi are the only drives i use. WD 250GB, 160GB Hitachi 40GB, 80GB Seagate 160GB, 40GB Laptops have IBM Travelstars in them though...no getting around it ATM.
  10. if the monitor just stays on for a few seconds and turns off, i suggest double checking the power adapter for it. I have two HP f1703 monitors, and if the amperage is not high enough (3.5a minumum) the screen will turn on for a few seconds and then shut off. you may be interested in checking that for a much simpler fix.
  11. you said you're planning to buy new GPU cooling? well, for an 8800 (anything version) the Accelero S2 might be a little weak. I know its $10 more, but the Accelero S1 is a much better cooler. i have a 9600GT, but in comparative results between an S1 and an S2 cooler, the S1 cooler is always slightly cooler, fanless or cooled by a fan. oh, fans. heh. don't get the turbo module for the accelero, you'll hate it. its not a very effective way to help that accelero. what you should actually do is find yourself a low RPM 120mm fan, and use zip-ties or something similar to fasten the fan to the cooler. as long as the cooler is installed properly, this added weight wont matter one bit. the cooling will also be much more effective, leading to much better stock temps. past that i don't see anything wrong with it. (budgets and quad cores don't tend to stay on the same list)
  12. CL5 RAM? that's kinda bad....maybe try finding something lower? 3? 3.5? what's your power supply? do you have the molex connector plugged in on the motherboard? 11FPS is a bit of a hole though...
  13. nice nice. cute guinea pig, we have a fatty out here named spud....he eats. and chews on everything. and eats a little more. most Acrylic cases i see aren't nearly as neat, but then again, they're not watercooled with a modular PSU. i take it, that the case is somewhat of a noise box? either way it looks great.
  14. my bad, didn't notice it was BTX. do you have better pics? its somewhat unclear, but i'd like to see it. just two questions: 1) SLI? obviously? 2) why only 2gb of RAM? i'd add more...3 at least for a system like that. otherwise it looks nice, what do you clean the case with, seeing as it's acrylic.
  15. you can still buy 478 CPUs from places...they aren't that out of date (in fact two of my sisters and my parents second computer all have socket 478 CPUs in them). go with the larger L2 cache, it'll be faster. the larger the L2 cache, the faster the CPU receives and transmits data from RAM through the Northbridge chipset. that and Celerons are a cheap waste of money for extreme budget builds. they have little performance to them.
  16. I whole heartedly agree with this. i own 2 fast 2 furious on DVD, and i also have friends who race (legitimately) and own fancy cars. by far, if i have to choose between the 2006 Lamborghini Murcielago, 1969 Chevy Chevelle or the 1997 Toyota Supra, i'll take the Chevelle 10 out of 10 times. besides, if you know what to "modify" your car with, like sequential fuel injection, F1 headers and the works, you actually can get better mpg ratings than those 1.8L 4 cylinder ricers. That and i prefer the sound of muscle over the squeal of a V12 barely pushing 500HP. I have nothing against ricers though, when they're finished right and have a full paint job and everythings been taken care of, they look great...they don't have the sound though. the purr of power, or the sound of a fart cannon? there are a few things that mix the best of both worlds though. Factory Five Racing's GTM mixes the power of All American Muscle cars into the looks of an exotic car. Well worth every penny (my friend just finished building his, and took it to california for car shows and racing). Chevy muscle FTW!
  17. 80mm fans are on the way out....cases still support them, but why bother with the availability of a 120mm fan? you seem to really be itching for a side window...really itching. but again, if you look at the hard drive cage, its not designed to promote good airflow. putting a fan there would be loud because of back-pressure caused by such a short distance to the cage, and not enough room to spread out. if you're really bugging for that window, maybe look at a Cooler Master Centurion 5, it has an optional side window that you can get. the front of the case has no door (which will only get annoying if you burn lots of CDs, or do lots of work with your optical drive, and will be one less thing to break not being there), the case also has a mesh front panel lined with removable filters so that dust does not populate your case as fast (but don't think you wont have to clean it out now and then) and it'll have that side window you're itching for. case and power supply are the two things to never skimp out on with a new computer. power supply is most important, its only what keeps your computer running, and without consistent airflow all over, your computer will constantly run hot, thus decreasing its life. the only thing that i'd like to make you aware of is that cold cathodes are not the greatest thing. i have a 12" cold cathode in one of my computers, and it has to be switched on before i power on the case, or i don't turn it on, because i've found that it shorts the power supply now if i turn it on while the computer is running. i can't really explain why, but it does. its about a year and a half old now, and i can't say i used it much, but that's what happens to me. that's why i don't exactly get any lighted fans anymore, i don't trust them. i'd also suggest any 80+ power supply that's on the market, possibly one of the new Enermax ones, they're very good, the 425W version would last you years. 80+ power supplies have a higher efficiency and use less energy than other supplies so its in your best interest to get one, for your own wallet through bills, and for the environment. (also buying only RoHS is a step too, but nearly everything is these days..finally)
  18. i share that crahak...cases with doors are on my hate list. What about the Antec Solo? as you can see with my sig, i'm using a plain Cooler Master Elite 330 to house my baby...the case cost me $40 at a local computer store, its had one other computer in it before this one. It may also be worth looking at cases that have dust filters built in if possible. many people say they're worthless, but having used this case for so long, there is a difference, and a lot of dust is kept out of the computer. another feature that may be worth looking for is a removable motherboard tray, it'll help you if you buy aftermarket heatsinks so you have an easier time getting things apart and back together. avoid cases that have vents on the side panel, they'll obstruct a true front to back airflow, and cases that have vents by the PCI slots are also iffy, but those vents can be covered easily. covering those vents prevents pockets of hot air from forming within the case. sometimes simpler is just sexier
  19. i second the E2180, fine choice for such little more money. aside from that, i just want to bring out the fact (and most people here probably already know) that having a plexiglas case window like that is very similar to just throwing a blanket over your rig. it doesn't actually help cooling at all. for the price, the functionality is somewhat lacking. i'm not saying NZXT is bad, but from my experience (because i have a fancy tower case like that) you get much better performance through other things. it also saves money.
  20. i don't mean run them fanless...run them how the picture looks.
  21. I'd suggest looking into the Thermalright HR-01. The board layout would allow you to stick two on...it would also allow you to arrange it so that you have have a 120mm fan clipped onto the edges of the two so that you can cool both quietly. that's what you could do with it if you didn't follow my explanation.
  22. -remove the lower 80mm fan that's in the back, and put tape over the grill so that air cannot enter the case through there. -remove the fan from the side of the case, put tape over that area. -remove the fan from the hard drive cage. look into Nexus or Noctua 80mm fans, they're quieter and will offer better performance. it will be balanced out through air pressure, so having less fans wont be necessarily bad. but with replacing the fans, you'll want to replace your CPU heatsink to a newer one that can work better in lower airflow situations. what type of CPU do you have?
  23. if you're building "the ultimate PC" why are you only using nForce? go for a Skulltrail motherboard and two X5482 processors. 3.6ghz quad core 1600mhz bus speed. triple SLi still there. i'd also go for FB-DIMM ram. i'm guessing that its the best budget build?
  24. went to my favorite world superstore yesterday (the dump) and picked up a few goodies actually. I'm sure if cops were there I would have been yelled at (I was pretty far back in that dumpster..yes, in) and i managed to pull out a few awesome things, but i'll only give pics of two. I haven't set them up together yet, but it'll happen very soon. Back in like, January (just after new years) my dad brought me home an HP f1703 (17" LCD). well...i saw one buried under like 5 CRTs, so i hopped in, yanked it out, and now i have two on my desk (FTW!) http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g142/bon...er/IMG_2485.jpg ^had to rearrange the desk to fit it...and my dad thought i would have given it to my sister...but meh. mine! second, this is a real prize....JVC XV-N650. i couldn't find the remote for it, but i've got no problem getting up and touching it when i want to use it (although for the seamless menu system you bet i'll be buying a remote off ebay or something). http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g142/bon...ne/IMG_2487.jpg ^there it is...its got a couple scratches, and a small dent on the top of the casing, but it works great. gave it a new power cable, flawless playback. while i had it open, i realized that the DTS processor gets incredibly hot very fast, so i found a small stick on NB heatsink and stuck that onto it, sealed it up, and called it a day. there was also a ~30ft cat5 cable and a dell inspirion 600M...the dell just needs a new power supply, and the cat5 cable will replace a broken one here. yay for dumpster diving!
  25. Hey all, Coming this summer and into next year I'll be working on a small network at my school's radio station. In essence, the first thing I want to do is kill the existing one (because all the accounts will be re-made later, and I'm rebuilding several computers). How does one go about removing computers from the network? What I want to be able to do is remove the computer from the domain, walk over to it, and be able to turn it on and use it like there's no domain for it. This is also assuming there are no individual Admin accounts for the computers themselves. I'll get to my next plan as it happens, but I'd like to be able to take existing computers, and add them to a different network as a small render farm (we do lots of video editing). Adding computers to the new network isn't a problem, I can do that easily (or have someone else do it for me), but my main issue now is that there are three computers set up on the domain, and none of them should even be connected to the network. They are all DAW's which I will be using to teach other people how to use the software, so there are to be no distractions, no "domain restrictions" and full access. Network drives wont exist once I'm done with everything, the external hard drives will be used for data transfer between the workstations and the new server (there's one external drive per workstation). Having very little experience with Windows Server 2k3, I'd rather just a quick tutorial. I did google it, but I guess I'm not really sure what to call what I'm looking for without explaining it. Since the restrictions are ridiculous and stupid, I'll be doing my editing here at home until I can redo the network. If possible, the network may never see the light of day again, having workstations available is more important to me. Thanks in advanced, bonestonne
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