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puntoMX

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Everything posted by puntoMX

  1. The CPU is fast enough for every day use of a PC, but if you step up to windows 7 you might drop in an extra 2GB RAM and install a 64bit OS on it (total of 4GB). Par it with some PCI-E video card and it should even do blu-ray and H.264 video well on it. Can you give me a list of games you would like to run or are there any special apps like Photoshop or ACAD that you would like to use?
  2. I mend not that particular board, but something that support DDR3 and LGA775 from for example Gigabyte with G41 chipset (20 = 50 btw., that was a typo). But, you have 4 2GB sticks so that will be a problem, *sigh*. - Let's hope the USB PCI-E does something . EDIT: 70USD: http://www.ebay.com/itm/533234-002-Refurbished-HP-EUREKA3-GL8E-Desktop-Motherboard-IPIEL-LA3-/190882330282 with shipping in the USA.
  3. Hard to tell what chip the BIOS is for me as all images on the net seem to be blurry and can´t find a sharp enough one to see what the right chip is. The fuses on that mobo seem to be black with "110" on it, there seems to be one underneath the PS2 ports (yes, the flat and wide SMD component). I'm almost sure you will end up replacing that mobo; 20 bucks and you should have a good used one, but it's hard to get that model so get yourself a better brand and call MS for a new activation of the Windows license (tell them that the motherboard had to be replaced).
  4. Less sugar and sodas could help there . They are market with an "X" on the motherboard, mostly are green colored, to replace them you need to weld them of and on again. My bad, I thought you could enter the BIOS, if not, Windows would not detect it either and it looks like the USB ports are taken out by a short. The BIOS is placed underneath the battery, that small 8 pin chip that you see there.
  5. I´ve seen it before, when there was a short in an USB port (check if the ports are still good). Even if you would replace the fuses on the board it still might not work. A PCI-E card will still come in handy in the future . Odd thing is that it does enter the BIOS and it might also still be working in Windows. Some strange virus bugging the system?... Might be also... But does Windows 7 install work when you boot it from USB (using Windows 7/8 DVD-Tool)?
  6. Let me check that out, but I think I found it, brb... Edit: Installed it and looks like what you were looking for: Bub ´n´ Bros Let´s see how it plays... Edit 2: seems to be a bit slow in responding when shooting bubbles, no idea if servers work well...
  7. Or if you are on a budget, the Coolermaster 212 EVO is a good one, retailing at 35USD, but for these coolers you need to have a wide enough case, just make sure it fits before you order. There are also nice coolers with 2x 92mm fans for about 5USD less. The Thermalright Macho retails around 53USD. ... and watercooler kits are noisy as well, not the fan on it but the darn small pumps that make some real noise... Sure you could fork out some serious cash and make a low noise custom watercooling system...
  8. As far as I know you need to mod the BIOS and to be safe you would need an external programmer for that. You could install coreboot or something on that too that way, but... I would not do this just for a single PC, but might be interesting for some special projects were more PCs are involved, for security reasons or what ever, in that case you could order also a batch from Gigabyte directly with the UUID set (no idea how many you need to order these days...).
  9. To reset you BIOS you need to shorten some contacts or pins with a jumper or metal object (screwdriver). Removing the battery will only reset your clock probably.
  10. There are few motherboards that can not deliver up to 75W to PCI-E devices, so no problem there as your mobo can do 75W without any problems. Twice as many CUDA cores will not give you twice the gaming performances as is also depends on the CPU and RAM, but it sure doesn't hurt to have twice the cores. You could go passive but to tell you the truth, I would not use a passive cooled card for games; go for a card that has a bigger fan on it and tweak the RPM on it. Most cards don't make noise at all especially these low power consumption cards.
  11. I´ve seen it many timesbefore it before; video freezes or turns to a black or grey screen, game continues playing the music and also the harddisk light continues blinking. The GF 610 is cheap with 48 CUDA cores, but the GF 620 will give you 96 CUDA cores for just 10USD more. Sure it's not for hardcore gaming . The Radeon HD 6570 might be a better pick for the same price as a GF 620, both cards can be found for under 50USD.
  12. AHCI might work after messing around with the driver, but I must say I've not tested it. I´ve done it before but with the older ICH9 (non R) southbridge and it worked, before Intel released a public driver for it. I would think it still should be possible for the later chipsets as well. There are still good soundcards that have a PCI-E interface as well, and there are PCI-E (1x) to PCI adapters that seem to work well with some good PCI soundcards, although I presume Creative will fail.
  13. I see that the SATA controller is set to SATA-I, set that to SATA-II if your drives are SATA-II. Sometimes there is a jumper on the drive that sets the drive to SATA-I, remove it if it's still on there. Link to your mobo: http://www.foxconnchannel.com/ProductDetail.aspx?T=motherboard&U=en-us0000310
  14. You already diagnosed the card (GF 610) and it faulty. If you are not sure if other components are failing too, use the ports on the motherboard itself without any videocard inserted into the PCI-E sloth. Please tell me if I missed the point.
  15. It's a ASRock 990FX Extreme 4. That's what I told the OP, best thing he can do is just enable or disable a drive letter if he likes to hide something...This is part of http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/163777-asrock-990fx-ext-4-mb-owners;-questions/
  16. Moving this to the Windows 7 section...
  17. No they can not be disabled individually, and why would you? You can only disable the Marvell controller and the eSATA port. Most of the time one or two internal SATA ports can be routed to be used with a eSATA connected at the back of the PC, sometimes you can choose what port you are going to route. This stands aside from enabling ACHI, I don't know what it does on your board but it might be that it just not initializes the HDDs before booting, this could save you some seconds when booting up (BIOS mode, not UEFI). ACHI and IDE make a difference in boot-up times, ACHI is faster, NCQ enabled drives or not (most have NCQ anyway), unless it´s an optical drive (that could give problems with ACHI). No there is not, and why would you? UEFI shows the same or more options than the outdated BIOS. You will get used to it . That is normal, the Marvell controller is seen as a standard SATA controller, the AMD controller uses ACHI (if enabled) and a total different approach of using the SATA controller. Better ask this question in the XP forum section if you want details on this.
  18. Why not use only HDMI? One cable, less fuzz, digital video and sound.
  19. Did you try it on USB 3.0? If so, use an USB 2.0 port on the PC to try it again. Also, try the printer on another PC and use another cable if the problem re-occurs.
  20. The onboard sound realtek chips arn´t that bad at all, most of the time if you hear radio and other noises it's the amplifier in your speaker system and NOT the soundchip. I don't think you will find the sounddrivers for the G1.Sniper M5 (remember you are pointing to LGA 1150 and not 1155). I'm using simple onboard realtek and it's not that bad at all (after installing their complete driver set), but stay away from VIA there...
  21. Do you need mATX or can it be ATX as well? If it can be ATX I would check out the MSI Z87-GD65 ; Still the same realtek sound chip but they put a little more work in the electronic components, also a great overclocker for your K CPU. Forget the "gaming" and "Killer NIC" bull MSI put's on it, it's just for looks . If you want good headphone sound, still get a special soundcard for that. Only con with that board is that it consumer 10W more, idle and under load, compared with other brands.
  22. I would write their helpdesk and ask for the drivers, check for the drivers installed and give them the build information of that driver.
  23. Where do you live? Can we share some of those garbage bins you have been going trough? Darn, I wish I could get those thing like you do, that's a nice laptop there.
  24. The GTX790 will pull about 100W more from the PSU, say 120W from your wall outlet. The PSU can still handle it but it will get a lot hotter; although it's a 450W stamped PSU, it can deliver the same as most "newer" models that are 600W stamped, so it will work fine. If you are planning of selling the mobo and CPU soon, go with a mATX board WITH HDMI/DVI/VGA out, as it will sell so much easier on for example ebay than a mobo without those ports. (only option is the 880G and you won't get much from your upgrade) BUT... If I were you, I would not upgrade the motherboard for now until you are willing to upgrade your CPU as well. You'll better sell that CPU with the motherboard you have now and get your CPU now. SATA 6gbps is nice but if you are going to use a SDD, you will "feel" not such a big difference between SATA 3gbps and 6gbps. USB 3.0 is nice too but do you really need it? Why are you upgrading the mobo any way? Note that new games pull more from the CPU these days, what games do you play? Or for what do you use the video card?
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