bphlpt

@Trip, I think you read that wrong. I read it that he wants to set up a network at home of his own just to get some practice prior to having to do similar things at work. He said he knows about some of the differences, such as dedicated IP at work and not at home, etc Cheers and Regards

Thanks max! At least now I know I'm not nuts! Cheers and Regards

Have you tried to look at the .ini and .in0 files with Notepad to see if what is in side helps you make sense of what is going on? Cheers and Regards

Built-in sound or soundcard? Cheers and Regards

I think what submix8c is saying is that you have several steps going on where you have the ability to amplify and/or change the frequency response, From what I can tell you have -- (1) WinAmp -> (2) built-in OS sound controls -> (3) sound card controls -> (4) active speakers. Are there others? (2) might be replaced by (3) I'm not sure. It is possible the front panel outputs add another stage, at least the headphone outputs do as submix8c said. Every stage of amplification adds the risk of clipping if the input to the next stage is too high. If you can eliminate any stages as you are testing, you might narrow it down as to which stage is causing the clip. That doesn't mean that stage is at fault necessarily, just that the input is too high at that stage. If you have ALL stages you have left set perfectly flat, ie no amplification and no frequency modification at all, and you only start increasing the amplification in one stage at a time, starting with the stage closest to the speakers, see what that does. You should minimize the chance of clipping this way. I also don't know where "receiver + passive speakers" comes into play in this chain. Anyway, since you say that the problem "doesn't manifest on receiver + passive speakers", that implies that the issue could be totally due to the active speakers, doesn't it? As to cleaning, I can't tell you how many times that when anything doesn't work right, if I take it apart, clean it, and put it back together it starts working again. Maybe you find something disconnected, loose, or broken. Maybe just unplugging and replugging a connector makes a better connection. Sometimes it's just magic. It is always worth a try. How? Blow out every nook and cranny in the entire PC using compressed air. Canned air works fine, or even a vacuum cleaner, shop vac, or leaf blower in a pinch. Clean all filters and heat fins. Then unplug every connector and card and wipe down everything with a cloth or Q-tip dampened slightly with a high grade of isopropyl alcohol, 91% or higher, especially all male connectors. If you see any corrosion at all then that could be a major problem. While they are apart, blow out all female connectors, card and cable. Let everything dry thoroughly before reassembly. When you put everything back together, make sure all screws are snug and not over tightened, connections are all tight and straight, nothing crooked, flans are not blocked and spin freely, (I've had fans go bad on cards that caused overheating and thus mysterious problems), and check all wires for any kinks or nicks. Take your time and be careful, but anyone can do this. It's the first thing I try on absolutely all problems computer, home, car, efc. If nothing else, you'll probably learn something and you'll be able to say you did that when someone asks. And someone will always ask -- for a reason. LOL I know it's a lot of work, but it is very often worth it. Cheers and Regards

Why? Cheers and Regards

I'm on Iron with no problems here. (Win7 x64 Ultimate) Cheers and Regards

Not true, that's not the only way. Onepiece - http://www.ryanvm.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6442, and YumeYao - http://www.ryanvm.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7030 both offer alternative solutions to boooggys. (You do know that he is no longer updating that, right?) Cheers and Regards

I haven't looked, but does this happen to be seen in our "Vista Business x86" friends profiles, or whose? Anyone know what is supposed to be happening while you are in that group? What does it take to get "promoted"? You got me curious. Cheers and Regards

You're probably better off either using FDV's files or just removing all shortcuts to ie.exe. Regardless of MS's assurances to the contrary, I believe that IE ended up so deeply embedded in the OS, and then being depended on by other third-party apps, that trying to just hack it out could end up causing you problems down the road depending on what other software you end up running in the future. Just a thought. Cheers and Regards

Sorry, I don't know, and really don't care, since I don't use categories but only icons, I think it's much quicker to find things that way and usually saves a click or two, and don't use Windows Defender anyway. But you're right. I couldn't find it under categories either, and you should be able to. I was mainly saying why I think it is no longer located under "All Programs". Cheers and Regards

I'm running Windows7 x64 Ultimate which I've slightly modded, so I thought I might have removed this and didn't remember. (It was over a year ago.) So I tried my wife's laptop with Windows 7 x64 Home Premium straight from Dell with the same result. I also tried searching my system with Everything - http://www.voidtools.com/ with the same result. I also Googled the phrase "WINDOWS 7 FILE RECOVERY" and the only MS link that came up on the first page of results was this one - http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/Recover-lost-or-deleted-files. So I'm very confused and have no idea what you are talking about. Cheers and Regards

Thanks for the info. Where exactly is that file in Win7 and what is it called? I don't see it on my system. (Win7 x64) Cheers and Regards

It's not in the All Programs list because it's in the control panel, along with Windows Firewall, Internet Options, etc, etc. It's become more a "part" of Windows rather than an application or an addon program. Cheers and Regards

Dumb questions. WHAT "Windows 7 File Recovery program"? Where did it come from? Is it supposed to function correctly when run on Windows 8? Says who? Has that been proven? Sorry if these seem to be obvious questions, but I'm not running Windows 8. Cheers and Regards

See Kurt's updated post above. Cheers and Regards

Good luck, but trust me, if you can reach from the motherboard to the DVD with the middle connector, and you can reach from the DVD to the HDD with the length of cable from the middle to the end connector, I'm 95% sure that it can be folded/flipped/twisted to make it work. I've wrestled with many of them over the years and have always succeeded. Try putting it together in reverse order. In other words, start the connection process by connecting the end connector to the HDD, then connect the middle connector to the DVD, then connect to the motherboard. A way you can experiment to see it this would even make a difference anyway is to just let the HDD temporarily hang from the cable, or prop it up with cardboard, just long enough to boot and see what Windows thinks. If the cable is hooked up correctly, and the BIOS detects it, and Windows still doesn't, then there is something else wrong with your Windows install. Cheers and Regards

Touche my friend! PM sent. Cheers and Regards

Not by using sysprep. As stated, sysprep removes ALL user profiles. That is its purpose, to leave only default and administrator. There is no way I know of to force it to keep any other user profile. At first install, since there are no users defined, it will then create a new user, as you have seen. Cheers and Regards

Even if it "can" be, it is not the best practice. Are you sure your cable is not long enough to be able to connect the DVD and HDD to the cable in the correct positions? Just because the DVD is located "above" the HDD doesn't mean that the cable can't be bent/twisted/folded in order to get it into the right position. If the cable is long enough for the middle/slave connector to reach the DVD, then you should be able to make it work. Cheers and Regards

I am just not getting how WherIsIt can possibly do what you are saying. Is there any way I could you sweet talk you into making a video showing how you use it as you have tried to describe? Thanks in advance. Cheers and Regards

Hey dencorso, I know this isn't your thread, but is there any chance that someone could add a summary section to either the first or second post (yours ), where there could be a list of which ones there has been good or bad experience with, for data transfer in whichever direction, and the rest listed as unknown? Just a thought. Cheers and Regards

You do realize that you are responding to a thread that is five years old? And the OP has not been seen in almost two years? You might just have to try it. Cheers and Regards

What I meant was that a lot of Power Supply manufacturers nowadays supply (2) 4-pin connectors that are both supposed to be used side-by-side for motherboards that have an 8-pin connector. Cooler Master does this I know, that's what mine is, and the manual for it indicates this is true throughout the product series, if not for the product line. It's referred to as "4/8 pin ATX 12V for processor". Something like this: But you are correct as well as also indicated in this excellent answer on SuperUser.com to the question "Can I safely use a PSU with an ATX 12v 4-pin for a board that has a EPS 12v 8-pin?" - http://superuser.com/questions/386138/can-i-safely-use-a-psu-with-an-atx-12v-4-pin-for-a-board-that-has-a-eps-12v-8-pi I won't quote the article here, but I will show one of the pics: They also show two different types of adapters that are readily available, and not expensive, that can be used to supply power to all 8 pins of the 8-pin connector: 4-pin to 8-pin ATX 12V adapter Molex to 8-pin adapter So provided the OP's power supply provides adequate power, from a power supply point-of-view, the motherboard he was asking about should be fine. If the power supply he wanted to use is an older one, then he might want to read this - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX, particularly the section "Interchanging PSUs", which includes the warning: Cheers and Regards

Thanks Cheers and Regards