puntoMX

Indeed, why buy a dual channel DDR3 motherboard with a P45 chipset. Or you stay with DDR2 and go for the P45, or go with DDR3 and the X58 (new rev. or not). If he´s on a budget then just go for the DDR2 P45 motherboard and if you pick gigabyte then go for the Ultra Durable 3 series... He would be better of spending less on the chipset and RAM (read DDR3) and go for a faster storage setup or video card. ripken204, long time no see . Same here .

heh, who could thought about that, thanks for the info . I stand with my mouth full of teeth to tell you the truth and I must say that I missed a year of computer technology 6 years ago...

Anti-malware won´t fix this as the damage is already done, anti-malware is mostly made to prevent damages of data. You can try to fix this but it will take you a long time; I would advise you to backup and reinstall the system other than loosing time searching where the real fault is hiding. You never know what is damaged beside those 2 files showing up in Hijackthis.

Looks like poor communication between people to me, but I think he/she is talking about the CPU, the Intel IOP333 I/O processor, that controls the RAID card. Although the connector is based on a PCI-E 8x, it could be exchanging data on a PCI-E 4x speed. Personally I would stay away from any nvidia chipset and go with an AMD Chipset when you use an AMD CPU and Intel when you use an Intel CPU. Just my 0.02...

Seems like a dirty (read bad) Powersupply...

Crap, who could have thought about telephony, nice find guys.

I use A-DATA Vitesta 4GB (2 x 2GB), and I like them. They run at 4-4-4-9 @ 822MT/s but are a pain when overclocking higher than 900MHz.

The reason why people went before with 1GB sticks went is that they had better timings, but that seems to be history these days; there are good and not expensive 2GB sticks with tight timings. What CPU are you going to use any way?

Besides that, you could open it up and look at the chips; I do it like that and it gets me the latest drivers. XP has almost all drivers for those models build in by the way and if it´s not detecting it than in some times SP3 could help you out there. What OS are you going to install?

Daughter I/O board of a PLC, I thought you would know more about it than me, it sure looks North American and I know more about the European market and that was 12 years ago (although this board looks from that time stamp ).

GA-EP45-UD3R, check it out, I think it´s my next one . Edit: By the way: GA-EX58-EXTREME

Good they add more OFC now to the PCB, so less loss there . * WIKI links added for the new commers. EDIT: Why don´t i see you online (MSN) any more crahak, or replies on my PMs .

My fault, I see it now in your first post. I have almost the same board as you have, just the none-R version, try another SATA port and play with the "native" setting in the BIOS for example, it´s always worth a try .

Nice add crahak for the people that know a bit more, I just kept it simple .

Okay, no problem, let´s go back to the PSU you picked:The specs look "ok" with: Output +3.3V@32A,+5V@50A,+12V@24A,-12V@1.0A,+5VSB@2.0A The +12V is market in red, and the +5V in blue for easy reference. The 5V+ line is heavily overdone with its 50A, not needed at all, only for a part of the motherboard and some other low level I/O, not even getting close to those 50A even if you try hard . It also resembles a 250W (U*I indeed to use the simple formula). The 3.3V line is probably more used in a modern system than the 5V line; think about PCI / PCI-E cards, chipsets and the Hot swap SATA (105.6W). So, those 2 lines combined will give you the total load, it´s about 60% of the totals, so let´s say 213W. Then we have the most important line, the +12V; 24A so you would say 288W but combining them with the other 2 lines you will get about 60% out of that max., making it a useful 173W. So, when we add up those 180W+230W we´ll have left a lousy 386W of those 600W AND a overdone 5V line with it´s 50A! A loss of more than 30%?; yes, that´s the marketing trick, cheap components to get high numbers and add some "extra" on top of that, not even thinking about how much it pulls away from your power outlet with it´s efficiency of 65% (unless you like to head up the place with it). Now, with this “knowledge” we look at the Antec earthwatts EA380 I showed you. Output +3.3V@20A,+5V@20A,+12V1@17A,+12V2@17A,-12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2.5A hmm, now, that´s looks different in every way; They cut away of the not much needed 5V line and added an extra 12V line to get more power out of cheaper components but still giving about let’s say 28A real Amperes out of those. So, let´s make the calculation here again: 3.3V at 66W 5.0V at 100W 12V1 at 204W 12V2 at 204W Subtotal of 574, let´s say 2/3 can be used at max., leaving a REAL 380W. I hope this clears it up a bit .

Most of the time you can see it in the release notes of a BIOS update, I would look there first, 2TB should be the limit.

Well I tried, it seems that you 2 (spacesurfer and Tripredacus) are blind to see the difference between a cheap a** 400W PSU (17-19A on ONE 12V line) and a real 380W PSU (TWO times 17A (Lets say 30A combined?) (TWO 12V lines)). Dig out your pocket and go for a "future proof" PSU: SeaSonic S12 Energy Plus SS-650HT. That should do the trick .

I won´t see why you need more, the 12V lines are the most important these days and a hard disk takes up about max.12W, a DVD-RW not much either. Do NOT look at the silly model numbers, "600W" or anything like that on a PSU doesn´t say anything (besides marketing crap) .

One thing left, besides the PSU, the motherboard seems to be faulty.

Well, if your motherboard has only 20 pins you can only use the 20+4 version, it´s a 24 pin connector where you can take 4 pins off, so to say.Ahum... that´s a really... really bad PSU... Check out the Antec earthwatts EA380, 10 bucks more but worth 10 times more. And cheap if you beleve in MIR: COOLER MASTER eXtreme RP-500-PCAR, 17USD .

Both CPUs have a 800MT/s bus .

okay, that changes the story a bit and it should be the motherboard itself that is giving problems, most likely the BIOS, so try to upgrade de very old BIOS (F4) to F11. Let´s see if that helps...

Normally it should take a reinstall of Vista to go from IDE(native) to AHCI mode or by following my procedure in the XP section (works for Vista too), I think something got wrong there. Reinstalling the system would be the fastest way to "fix" your problem; you could be digging for days in the register and comparing files with each other or go back to a restore point when everything was working well. Still I would reinstall it to not walk into problems, something is already messed up and who knows what more .

That "thinking" sound must be a high pitching sound, so I agree with: "Not enough power"

It ONLY shows that the 5V line of your PSU is "OK". Interesting, I never had that. What motherboard are we talking about here? Out of the box it could fail, but I don´t think it´s your problem there...Like other said, swap out that PSU. Don´t tell us what brand it is .