RainyShadow

Are you rooted? If so, you can block most ads. About QR codes, the Firefox Preview app has a scanner - when you tap on the address bar you can scan a code. FX (nextapp.fx) is my favorite file manager currently.

@ruthan What are the versions of AnyDesk and C:\WINDOWS\system32\kernel32.dll on the non-working machines? I have AnyDesk v.5.5.3 and kernel32.dll v.5.1.2600.6293, everything works fine.

@jaclaz As i said before, the heatshrink we usually have around is much thicker, and often causes troubles with fitting in many laptops. The original one is 3-5 times thinner. @we3fan Just open that laptop already and check how much space is there. If you can fit a battery holder inside, there won't be need to mess around with the cell itself. If the original place is too tight, check for another place away from the heating parts (CPU,GPU,RAM) The pliers i use are thick (at the tips) as about 1-2 matches each side. You can start with a flat screwdriver or another similar tool - just pull outwards and try not to press much on the cell. When there is a wide enough opening, push the closed pliers inside and start to open them. Scissors may work too, just make sure the outer edges are not sharp. For the inner plastic ring a screwdriver is enough - push it inside and rotate a bit, the same way we used to remove car tires in the past :P

Yup, this is fine. If it seems stuck try to hold the motherboard side part in place, so you don't pull both connectors out. Just for better contact. That's the standard, but you can never be 100% sure. I've seen many cables (not battery yet, though) with swapped colours. Check the old battery just in case.

As in the title. It would be useful to have a hardware related subforum for each Windows version. Drivers related discussions, queries about supported hardware, etc. can go there. This way the main forums can become more focused on the OS itself, and not on ways to make it work at all :P

Not sure if i understood properly, but... Do not try to pull the motherboard side connector, you may break the traces leading to it (and do other damage too). Better to directly solder the cable to its pins. Or pull the pins out of the battery connector, wrap each in some isolation, and plug them in this way. Make notes of the polarity - connecting in reverse may fry the mobtherboard! FYI 3-pin batteries have either one pin unused, or two of the pins shorted. You can just change the connector and use them. If there is enough space, you can get a battery holder and connect that instead. Then you can easily change just the cell.

I am not aware of any forced limits for the number of control sets. If you did a backup of the whole C:\WINDOWS\system32\config folder as i suggested before, you can restore it and redo everything until you get the control set 9 back (or export it straight from the backup if it was there). To compare .reg files you can try WinMerge or WinDiff.

Yes, that's best if you can find a compatible battery. There are several types of connectors used, also different cable lengths (new cable may be too short), not to mention the various cell sizes. From the pictures i found it can't be seen how much free space is there for the battery in this model. When i can't find a suitable battery, i do something similar to this video, but with a few differences. I don't cut the original packaging (heatshrink tube i get around is often too thick), but stretch it with pliers from inside, until the cell can be pulled out. Same for the ring piece. When i'm done replacing the cell, i put these back and with some heat they shrink to the previous size. I also use some conductive tape like in this video, and a drop of glue on top. If there is a new battery, but with a different connector (or too short cable), cutting the connector and soldering the original one in its place works too (unless the cable has to go through tight channels).

OK, now do this one: This will merge the clean and the crashing configurations. Colliding keys (present in both configs) will have the content from the crashing XP. From the clean config only the unique keys will remain. Hopefully they will be enough to make that driver work.

"first part" meaning you booted with the configuration of the clean XP only? If so, try to import the "crashing" configuration as i described in my previous post.

The blue thing with red+black cable is the battery. Could be CR2032 or thinner ( CR2016? ) inside. To replace just the cell you need to use spot welding (точкова заварка) as if you try to solder it normally it will explode. Can also try with glue. Barely visible blue thing under the right heatsink pipe on this pic.

To restore your virtual device drivers, etc.: Make a copy of the .reg file you exported from the old windows. Open it in Notepad and find&replace the number in ControlSet00x with the one you picked for the new configuration. Save. Import the file into registry. Reboot. Now, there are two scenarios next: 1. everything works - the job is done, nothing more to do. 2. crash, the driver stops working again, or some other problem - reimport the .reg file from the clean windows, split the .reg file from the old windows into small parts and import them one by one (with reboots) until you find which part causes problems.

You said it is not working - just install driver won't help in the current situation. The idea is to copy the working device configuration from the clean install. Note, you may need to also copy some .sys files if they are missing (but first try without them). If/when this starts working on your old Windows, you can try importing the backup you created - whole, or in parts. You will have to replace its ControlSet00x number to match the new one.

You never upgraded a computer? Or just missed your meds today? geez...

http://www.compu-docs.com/winsock9x.htm

https://www.3dpchip.com/3dpchip/sub/net_eng.html Page says "ethernet", but it includes WiFi too. Click the "+" to change between the detected network adapters. Unless the configuration was changed by the owner...

Dave said: Anyways, my suggestion should apply to both

Enable the animated icon in systray and check if multi-finger taps light it up differently compared to single finger. Also, try tapping in various ways, some touchpads have a hard time registering multiple fingers.

I told you what to try. It may sound long and complicated, but is really just a few minutes work. Too lazy? You will not find a magic utility to do the job. P.S. you don't mention removing the driver from critical devices...

Maybe the Elan devs tried to prevent running multiple different config panels, because they conflict with each other?

Ignore this, turns out it was caused by uBlock when i blocked page elements containing iframe of www.facebook.com/plugins/page.php . When that element gets onscreen, the current page duplicates in browser history. Now i directly blocked the URL with this filter ||www.facebook.com/plugins/page.php$subdocument,important and the issue is gone. There seems to be two attributes for each image: data-src containing the proper image URL, and src containing a data URI. An inline script is supposed to copy data-src to src, but for some reason it fails in NM27. Maybe NM27 is lacking some function in its JavaScript implementation, no clue. I don't see anything related in the error console. I can't test NM28 and the other SSE2 browsers, there may be others affected as well. The bad thing is that this seems to be a commonly used technique, so more and more pages will have the same issue. Many will go unnoticed when it's not obvious that there are supposed to be images. @roytam1 Could you see if this can be fixed somehow, please?

Check in BIOS setup if you have the option of changing ACPI version without turning it off. Or find how to use this: That's way beyond me, though...

@TechnoRelic I just found out that there is a UA override for twitter in about:config Check for general.useragent.override.twitter.com and change it to something newer. Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1;rv:60.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/60.0) seems to work fine in NM27.

You got IrfanView around there? Run it and press C. Gives much better results, unless you need to capture tooltips or video players.