bonestonne

i've gotta pinch some pennies before i can get a new case though. i was ready to $hit my pants when i put it in, luckily it does fit with maybe 4mm gap in between the PSU i can't post pictures just yet, however tomorrow i can. [cameras battery died + need to upload a ton of vacation pictures]. i'm saving up for another 2gb of RAM and a new HDD thats SATA-II. my current drive will be formatted FAT32 for data transfers, and i'll move my triple boot onto the new HDD [hopefully a 320-500gb drive]. this case is actually just for now..i'll be getting a 4U rackmount for it within the next two weeks hopefully [my school is getting rid of stuff and i'm taking advantage, i'll grab two cases, use one, sell the other. its a scythe ninja rev A, and when i was putting it together, i saw the capacitors by the holes and didn't realize the bracket was raised, i was getting a little angry...but its all working good, sturdy bolt-thru, and compared to the stock cooler, theres actually less stress on the motherboard with equal or better contact with the CPU. i'm amazed at this...i did just add thermal paste as well, so i'll give it overnight and tomorrow to set in, and tomorrow i'll get some temps [although i'm not much for doing stress tests, so i may just skip that entirely]. thanks for the help, and i also hope this helps other people too, i couldn't find anyone else online through google searches that had the ninja on this board.

Ok, so I bought a Scythe Ninja for my computer, and it hasn't gotten here yet, however when i switched cases [because i'll only be using 120mm fans in this build] i found that my PSU is dangerously close to my heatsink. in the attached picture i have a ruler balanced at about the center of my current heatsink showing the 110mm length. my issue is that i'm afraid that the heatsink will brush against the PSU, which will be a nightmare. i will be running the ninja fanless because of where its located. you can see that the 110mm distance is insanely tight, ending just before the PSU, might have a couple mm to spare. thats what it looks like right now, theres room, and i can cheat it if i have to. does anyone here have an MSI Neo-F P965 with a ninja on it? I made sure to have a bolt-thru kit come with it because i don't trust push pins...even on my stock cooler i dont like them. will it be touching my PSU? thats my main concern.

its possible to, but i haven't done it myself, so i can't give you a good walkthrough on it...however know that you wont be able to get it back on.

post a picture of it. its possible that you popped contacts off the motherboard within the socket, or a resistor or diode that sits under the core. there is no easy way of fixing it...are you still under warrantee/RMA period or are you up the creek without a paddle? i'd suggest looking for an open box board if you can, because it means you wont have two of everything lying around. i guess it doesn't do much now, but always double check your work, and even if it means another few minutes, don't do it wrong and leave it that way.

you, in relations to the burst caps i've seen by the CPU socket and rear I/O panel..it seems you've seen it all so i'm just wondering.

vista at idle has 53 processes running. view processes from all users and i think [although i don't use vista myself] there's an option to view all running processes. its part of aero that makes so many processes i think, although i only emulated a vista beta a while ago, so i don't remember for sure. i did it at compUSA once to show my parents why i didn't want a new computer out of a box, i didn't want all that.

i should assume its socket 478 [i don't think 423 made it past 1.7ghz] there are two caps on the motherboard, one right below the CPU heatsink, and one near where the rear I/O panel is that i think are prone to bursting. from the pentium 4's i've seen at the local dump, those two caps are commonly either burst or close to it. punto, have you seen something like it? i wish i had a picture of at least one of the boards like that.

wattage doesn't matter, the computer will start regardless of how much the PSU is rated for. check the processor fan, it could be dying, or not properly seated.

if your screen refresh rate is 60 or less, bump it up to 70hz and then look. worked on my sisters computer, should work for you.

anything but Norton! its entirely possible that Norton is the source of this problem [and if you continue to try installing, it could become the source of many more problems to come]. Avast!

4 years ago i was running 128mb, now i'm running 1gb in this system, 1152mb in my server. in school i encode videos, from raw to final on systems that have 2gb of RAM...2gb is actually better than 4gb, because you use it all to it potential, not a little of each stick. and the world isn't about overclocking. i kinda have to side with Zxian on this one. for better performance you can't go too high, and more sticks spread the load. but i have to ask this...why doesn't 3gb perform well? i also have to beat on future proofing. you can't future proof with computers. you can just get a board and say i have a max of this at any given time. by the time you really do reach that max, the world is already 3 steps ahead. it doesn't hurt to opt for performance...4gb of RAM is the most any 4 core system for home use will ever need. 8gb is beyond overkill...its not future proofing, its saying i want a server for home use because i think i need that much power. tear my opinions apart, i've been flamed in places for running a pentium D...but really...the most powerful Mac Pro at my school only has 4gb of RAM, and its running dual Xeons, its heavily used for video, audio and photo editing [final cut pro HD, Soundtrack Pro, Photoshop CS2] also it runs blender from time to time. if you need more than 4gb of RAM, than that mac would have more than 4gb of RAM, and it does more taxing stuff than whats listed.

is it just the plastic pieces, or is the metal hinge assembly also broken? if the assembly is still intact, you could possible replace the bolts on it, and then just cover it with your favorite whatever. one of my college friends had an old laptop that was held together largely with duct tape, worked like a charm. is everything all about looking good? put some improv and your own style into it...makes it more you.

well, if you want a better shot at it, do not delete anything and do not empty or delete anything from the recycle bin. doing so may permanently delete any files. this is no process to play with. unfortunately, no really good freeware is around that can recover data, and most trials can't actually recover the files. do a google search for "recover deleted files", and look around say the first 15 results for what looks most popular and can get the job done. i can't say i've ever hit a situation where its necessary that i recover files, so i can't easily recommend one. what i've used in the past is a program called Get Data Back NTFS [theres another called Get Data Back FAT, for FAT partitioned drives]. the two are not interchangeable. there's a complex reason for why deleting any files can cause you to lose what you need to recover, so i'll spare you of that explanation. out of preference, this is why i keep track of money on paper. harder to get deleted or lost when properly kept.

i use the Cole2kMedia pack Advanced, i use Avast, and never had an issue with it.

well, i used to have a rig with 11 fans. changed the case and heatsinks [the case is similar to a Stacker] and now its got 3 fans [not counting the PSU]. and it was a dual processor computer. i don't think you'll have a heat problem any time soon. unless you need the 8800, why not go a little lower to save money? i mean its not a race to have the most expensive rig out there...i read an article about a guy in austrailia who put 12,000 into a computer, and if you let me loose on newegg i could make a better rig for less than 12,000.

is the galaxy really that bad? my friends computer has one and its actually really nice... or is the galaxy a gamble buy?

what kind of RAM is it? if its RD RAM, then of course there will be issues. change the PSU first, if that doesn't change it, and the computer has RD RAM, then i may know whats wrong.

wowza, it'll look good, but that thing will be really loud. as for the fans, Antec Tri-Cools? keep em' all on medium and you'll notice performance, not too much noise, and it'll keep cool. I'd suggest Enermax Galaxy, enough power, and the Galaxy line is good...not even loud with the amount of power it pushes. 1Kw is extreme overkill for that system, even with what is has inside.

if all she's doing is playing the games, why even upgrade?

unless its my parents vacation, i normally just turn it off at night, but i don't have it on unless i need internet, because if i don't need internet [or 64bit] i'm upstairs working with my server...but i haven't gotten to a point where i can use it as a fileserver yet, so its off unless i'm trying to install an OS on it [been giving me troubles lately].

http://www.thinkgeek.com/computing/drives/95ec/ those are available, however its just expensive. could i suggest a wireless range extender? boosts up to another 300 feet, in a house it will make it much better for wireless. my wifi is just under my room so i don't have a problem, and even my sister doesn't have a problem across the house upstairs in her room.

exactly what power supply are you using? i read something yesterday about some power supplies leaving fans on after shutdown to cool off the computerfaster and more efficiently. that could be it.

nothing like that would cause the system to stay on, i'm almost willing to bed its an ACPI issue [however i'm no gambler]. my old server does it, computers at my school do it, i'm sure its no different. you just need to push the power button once. however, that leaves me to wonder what a different power button would do for the situation.

not sure what to say about the staying on, however when you use the PSU I/O switch, its technically safe, however when you turn it back on, and lights blick etc, its because theres a 5v line that triggers the computer to turn on, the computer is telling you that the 5v is good. if you push the power button once [not hold it down] after turning off, what happens?

if it wont stay off after you turn it off, make sure Wake On LAN is disabled.