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In hopes that it will help a bit to determine what Google is up to I clicked the tab Why was this site blocked? ...If interested in the message Here It Is!

When I click all 3 links directly from page 1 (not through a google search) I get the following message...

Can you exhaust the heat from within the room by using a small window fan drawing the air out of the room, otherwise you will only be circulating hot air??? I'll give you an example, my room can get warm even with the AC on 78 degrees, around 83 degrees (my PC temps rise about the same, about 4 degrees or more), but if I crack my window and allow the air to escape my room I can get the room back to about 78 degrees just by exhausting the hot air.

What would work (and look) the best really depends on what exactly you are needing to cool, I cant really picture what you are faced with. But, ripken204 has a good idea, also, if you had an available native usb port you could get a usb hub and use it to power a few fans. Again, it all depends on what kind of CFMs you need to create to keep this equipment cool. There are available battery packs that make use of those large flashlight type batteries and the case may have an AC or DC port for plugging in an appropriate device. The packs can be charged by plugging them in and when you leave you move to battery power. Again, how much wind you need to create is a critical detail - IMO.

True, I use the RBC5 and $40 to $50 seems about right. Why I cried is I need to upgrade my UPS to handle all my computer based recording gear and I began looking at some of the 2000VA to 3000VA rack units and the battery prices are crazy, and the fact they have only a 1 yr warranty when it comes time for a replacement I wanted to say that if you look at most if not all mission critical environments, pure sine wave is recommended over a simulated (stepped) wave. Like I said earlier if your hardware and data matter use the preferred method, but you can start a fight with others who don't care. This also brings to mind the quality of the power supply, again another area where most PC enthusiasts simply are in the dark. To them all power supplies are created equal and to them a variation of (+-).4 or .5 volts is unimportant - not to your equipment it isn't. Point being...A well designed power supply that can maintain the proper voltages and has only slight voltage irregularities along with the necessary power cleaning facilities accompanied with a UPS of the same caliber is a must if your hardware and data matter. I was in a Digital Audio / Recording class a while back and had a talk with my teacher about what he used to protect his equipment at home, he has an elaborate Mac system, a crazy quad core setup, 2 32" HD monitors and so on, he has about $3000 invested in protecting his equipment. I wish I could remember the name of the UPS he is using - expensive - and I had never heard of it but knowing him I bet it is top of the line. BTW, the $3000 is the price of a combined method for battery back up in the event of a power outage but the lesson is he felt his investment in hardware / software / data deserved it. I can see you posted as I'm writing - I'm sure your purchase will be a good one

I use the APC Smart-UPS SUA 750 and love it, plus it has saved my bacon a few times when here in California the power dipped as low as 102V to as high as 133V as well the token outages - this UPS didn't flinch and neither did my equipment @ about 38% load. I'm not sure all the features of the free version of PowerChute Business Edition but I do believe you could run a command to shutdown, send email etc. It also has a logging feature, it is true it is not cheap but you have to decide is your investment worthwhile - you could stand to loose a lot of valuable data as well hardware. When it came time to replace the battery I think I might have cried, this is the only caveat with a UPS device, battery replacement can be expensive (and iffy) and your replacement will likely be from Korea and only come with a 1 yr warranty. I used BuyUPSOnline for my replacement battery for my SUA 750 and also purchased a refurbished Smart-UPS that comes with a full 3 year warranty, I am really happy so far. The APC tech recommended I use them over anyone else, they are APC's certified repair facility. I only mention them because a good UPS can cost a bundle, you should have a look at some of their refurbished rack stuff they may have something you like. I can only vouch for my 1 battery and 1 refurbished UPS purchase, 2 years later all is well, like I said the recommendation came from an APC tech. I did pull the UPS apart, looked it over and tested it and I was happy. I think most batteries are from 3 main sources and your new APC battery (in your new APC UPS) could likely originate from the same place your replacement comes from - just rebranded.

I sure hope you didn't think I was questioning your reasons, I was only asking. Your first response was sufficient for me, and I was only making a joke when I said "they deserve an error message for removing a file while it was being verified". I'm sorry I bothered you - it really wasn't a criticism of the app.

This makes sense, thanks for elaborating. Why anybody would delete a file while they were verifying it who knows but, they deserve an error message. Mike

Thank you for your efforts with HashCheck - love the utility for sure! I do wish you would change "UNREADABLE" to "MISSING" - this is more appropriate for the file state if I understand this is the only condition for "unreadable" ie; the file is "missing". Regardless, HashCheck is a great tool. Mike

Strict Association is really not the right term here, in reality, the programs you are having troubles with are looking to the registry to determine what program handles chm files, in this case hh.exe. To fix this you would have to either run a software app that would edit the association in the registry or you could edit the registry yourself (not recommended). Whatever you should decide Backup Your Registry First! before you do anything. You could search the registry for hh.exe and I would bet it is presently associated with opening chm files. Also, this isn't bad programming rather default behavior, most people don't rip out IE they simply quit using it. If the icon for chm files has changed in Windows Explorer to that of xCHM, until you fix/edit the registry, maybe create a shortcut to the files you want to open in xCHM and move the shortcuts, in this case to the WinRAR program group in start and open the file there rather than in the application itself.

You're correct - my bad, the viewer in Winrar is for viewing the contents of a rar and not for viewing the hlp file. I would change back the settings to -> "Viewer type" - "Associated program". If you by chance pointed to xCHM in Winrar under "External viewer name" make sure there is no program listed (blank). The setting for "Unpack everything for" should list *.exe *.htm *.html - these settings are all the "Defaults". Did you also change the association in Windows Explorer for .hlp files like you did for chm? The "Defaults" that most if not all Windows programs use - those associations we were talking about - are, .chm (Compiled HTML Help) - using hh.exe (Microsoft HTML Help Executable) to open .hlp (Standard Help) - using winhlp32.exe (Windows Winhlp32 Stub) to open You need to change these associations to the program you would prefer to open these file types.

K-Lite (mega) Codec Pack! It is installed, updated, and uninstalled easily, seems to be updated regularly, and I don't see it as "bloated" Sorry, I seen this thread listed with "View New Posts" and didn't realize that the banned knucklehead opened this up again. I better check my other "Poll" post -

Raxco PerfectDisk!

Have you tried to adjust the settings in Winrar to use an external viewer, associate the "file types" to have the external viewer open them? Open Winrar -> Options -> Settings -> Viewer (experiment with the settings). If your settings are "Associated program" Winrar may be looking for something that no longer exists. You may start by trying "Ask". Also, have you tried adjusting the settings "File Types" from Windows Explorer and point to a new program for chm files instead of Microsoft HTML Help Executable? The only problem you may have still is that a given program itself may have assigned (registered) MS HTML Help to open chm files and you would need to reassign xCHM to be the default viewer but not all programs make this easy. This strict association is why you are having problems, some programs respect your wishes when you create an association while other programs ignore your "defaults" and stick with what they registered when they installed, that is why when trying to open chm files one program will respect your new program and others pitch a fit. Followup: There are some limitations on what xCHM can view - here's a sample * 'very proprietary' .chm files, making heavy use of MS-ITS:, mk:@MSITStore: links. This looks alot like the chm file type from your image.

I kind of like the idea of an open design, as much as I change things around. In fact the Skeleton looks like a glamorized version of a Tech Station computer workbench.

Well, you might have better luck getting help with Firefox at Firefox Support. Mike Followup: I was trying to find the link to a very detailed article on Firefox 3.5 setup that I read but I couldn't, sorry, but I do remember with Firefox 3.5 being designed around HTML 5 that there is no need for some plug-ins due to the feature being built into the browser and I believe flash audio and video is one of them. I guess this feature is more future intent than the present - my bad. If you can't square it away by looking through the settings, have you tried about:config in the address bar?

One of the best guides on "services", what you can safely set to "disabled", "manual" , service "dependencies" and so on can be found at BlackViper.Com. They are very detailed guides, and come in a few flavors - "default", "safe", "tweaked", and "bare bones". One issue he covers is that of memory use for different settings. I have been using his guides for both 2000 and XP and find them very useful - have a look if interested. I believe the guides are now in pdf format and can be downloaded. Mike

A model number might help in getting detailed answers. It would seem that if your unit can record to DVD, ie: Recordable Media, it would also record to CD R/RW but you don't list it so... Based on what you show, your device can playback the formats under Playable Media, as well, record to the media formats listed Recordable Media. If your device in fact does record, no mention of speeds 4x, 8x etc. Most all my problems have come from burning too fast, even when the media can write at the given speed, I prefer to write at slower speeds - JMO here. The Write Once / Multiple Times is self explanatory. With Dual Layer discs you can record twice as much data. The (-) vs (+) is unimportant in my opinion. The quality issue will matter most when you decide on compression formats, as well the quality of the source ie: your vhs tapes. I would advise getting the source to your hard drive for editing - you don't want to play your source more than you need to - vhs degrades with each playback. -+R -> Write Once -+RW -> Write Multiple Times (re writable) DL -> Dual Layer Note: When you buy media, make sure you match the write speeds of your media to the write speeds of the device ie: -R @ 8X, -RW @ 4X. I am partial to Taiyo Yuden media but there are many good brands, as well bad. Don't be cheap here. This is a start and I'm sure others will have an opinion. I'm not sure how deep you want to go, but maybe some advice on archiving your vhs tapes will help, I like VideoHelp.Com. Mike

I think you would have better luck finding a solution in the HP forums, have you tried? I have no experience with HP myself - sorry. Mike

It depends on what exactly you are doing, and how will removing the file affect the cab file's detection, will it change (the cab properties) by affecting the cab md5 hash and file size - assuming a source file is looking to verify the cab during an installation routine - you gave no info as to what this cab file is for or what file you need to extract/remove. You may find the file online - who knows??? If all you need to do is "extract" a file from the cab (not actually remove it from the cab), I would "copy" the cab to another folder (for editing), extract the contents and get your file - I like winrar, there are others. You are not changing the file properties or location, you just need a file in the cab archive (you simply got your file from a "copy"), and you can just delete the contents of your editing folder. On the other hand, if you need to change the cab properties by removing a file from the cab archive (one less file) you may need to edit any source files that point to this cab and provide the new file properties info - new size, hash etc (whatever the source may be looking for), maybe nothing other than the name. To be safe you need to elaborate on what exactly you are doing - the cab file, is it part of an application, an OS, and what is the file inside the cab archive you need - the cab name and the name of the file you need are all important at this point. There are alot of smart guys in here who can advise on safely editing file properties and so on but they will need more info - specifics to get it done right. Mike

I'm kind of partial to the Win 3.11_DOS 6.22 combo - JK. Personally, 2000 SP4 and XP SP3 have been very reliable. In fact my 2000 SP4 machine ran for over four years without any issues ever and barely seemed to have been affected by the normal clutter an OS can accumulate over time. Mike

I would generally agree with this statement, and maybe more so your whole point about jumping off the "I must get new parts now" bandwagon. I don't think many folks need 3+Ghz QuadCore, 16GB of ram, a terabyte of storage and so on... The only problem is usually the price of new over the price of slightly legacy parts. I had an old 486 that I wanted to use again and the extra 512MB of ram I installed cost more than 2GB of faster ram for my primary pc. Let's not forget about availability of parts as well. Unlike say the hobby car industry where you can get a starter or a pair of custom heads for your 67 Chevy bigblock, the computing industry is figuring out how to force us to buy a complete system when all you may need is a new video card but you can't find a card that will work in your old motherboard. With the advent of the internet you may find old parts that will work but what about the quality, is the old 486 mobo that Joe's Old Parts is selling one that was stable (worked with your cpu) or caused frequent reboots - who knows. I upgrade usually when I don't need to, but I wait for a major price fall before I do and I never bother with the latest and greatest while it is the latest and greatest - I wait until it is good - LOL. Mike

FileZilla 3.0.11.1 From FileZilla forum: Mike

Here's a tutorial - should help. Windows All In One Tutorial This may help as well. 911cd forums - multiboot thread Mike

Excellent! helpdesk98, good to hear it will work for you... I'm amazed at the quality of many of the freeware apps available if one looks hard enough. Mike