puntoMX

I got some info on that for you. The problem is that it's a BTX board and not ATX so you would need to change the computer housing as well; but first, let's see what a new install and a memory check does. I replaced some bad capacitors last Saturday in a HP workstation but it still gave me "USB device that is connected isn't recognized" in XP. Good XP has the function to disable that message as it did work with all the USB deices I threw at it. Replacing capacitors isn't worth it in most cases, but this was a Socket 478 based board and they are hard to get these days, if at all. You have a Socket 775 based board that can still be found for a good price in ATX form.

Yes it's all over the internet, some Apple sales promo. It's just a phone after all .

Looks more like an overactive anti malware scanner/remover to me. You could use memtest86 to test that RAM, also check for bad capacitors on the motherboard (coffee colored stuff on the capacitors indicates bad capacitors, also inflated ones are bad). Dell has used a lot of bad capacitors in a lot of their boxes so I would start there...

Well, it seems to be a BIOS problem, like Coffeefiend said the chipset isn't the problem but Intel brand motherboard are just no go when it comes to upgrading.You are better off swapping that mobo, CPU and RAM, kick out the 2 80GB drives or leave them in for backup or so and use the 500GB as your system drive. That video card is still not much outdated and will do fine at high settings for most games, if not maxed out. If you gave us a budget we could push you in the right direction . Indeed, that board will not do any 45nm based CPUs, just the 65nm and up. Yes you can use 533MHz DDR2 for CPUs with a 800 or 1066MT/s Bus .

When you go to: C:\Users\[uSER NAME HERE]\Desktop (Say C: is where you installed windows), they are not there?

Also, replace the 3.3V CR2032 battery, some times that could help to not get the BIOS error any more, but it looks like a dying system...

Yes, you should have done that before dropping this topic in the hardware section .

Just a guess; Are we using an Intel chipset USB controller? A i845 or some kind? If yes, than it would be a problem with not enough power from the USB HUB (inside the chipset), on HP and DELL it will smoke, Gigabyte did it smarter and shows a "overload" warning. I guess some just crash.

It has an Intel 3100 onboard .It looks like a company that uses HP stuff and designs their own housing. So. it's the looks and candy like an Apple, just without the OS .

- Or a bit too far off 780 nm, but with a still working laser (this will explain why it will read some CDs still). Most drives will continue reading DVD discs, and that could be for years from my experience. All by all, this is a normal dying drive .

yes, okay, but answer the other 2 members questions: Can you boot from it (and thus seen in the BIOS)?

Things that are fast to check are the data cables to the harddisk and memtestx86 to check that RAM. Did you check any of it?

OP=Original Poster, you in this case. I hope the jump/fall from the window wasn't from a big height .Let me read the complete topic again, brb- EDIT: Did you try that card in another PC? Looks more like a defective video card. If the card crashes it will point back to the driver, and windows will recover the hardware fault, continuing to work if possible after that crash. It could be indeed that the card isn't getting enough power from the mobo but I wouldn't blame the mobo for it; Why the heck didn't they place a power-connector on the videocard any way...

Ah, I thought you had the SMA connection looking cable to American standard COAX connection cable (the one showing it your first post picture) and only needed to connect an European COAX cable to it.

What's the model?

I think you need a different one. Do you have the cable in the middle?

Nope. It'll just run at a lower clock speed than it's able to. Well, you could set it to 5:4 so you can get it work at 1666 without OCing, and if they are the same price I would pick them also; But always check out the voltage that is needed on 1666 DDR3.

Darn I lost my post, writing it again: Good information on PSUs can be found on silentpcreview.com. Note that older PSUs, say 5 years ago, would have had higher rated 3.3v and 5.0v lines while the new ones are rated at half the those rates, e.g. 20A for the newer PSUs and 40A for the older. Most cheap PSUs still are based on the old design thus leaving not much for the 12v rail (and from there X count 12v lines). Also newer PSUs have a higher rated 5vSB, that went from 1.5/2.0A to 2.5/3A and are used for the USB power. Here for example you can see that they torture a good 400W PSUs with even using 400W on the 12v line, and you can see that the efficiency doesn’t go down much (note it pulls 500W from the wall outlet ). Anyway, look around on that site; it has a lot of useful info on it unlike other sites that just spread too much bull .

Les than 1000USD for a whole system . Seems that the fastest version (1090 at 3.2GHz) will see a streetprice of say 350USD. Note that Intel also gives you high numbers about the cache, but that is combined cache and not like AMD gives his specs. I can't wait for the Athlon II X6! --- Any way, like CoffeeFiend said, it all depends on what you are going to do with it, so, if you run a heavy database server or so, teh tripple channel would be better but for your average home usage and gaming, dual channel would do just fine. 1333 vs. 1666 will give you 20% more bandwidth but timings, depend on the module configurations and specs, could be worse, however the 20% more bandwidth would make that up. What exactly do you want to know? And what are you planning to do with the system?

You are not that old and it has also nothing to do with keeping the cards. I sell most of my older stuff when I still get a good price for it, but if it's over 3 years old, I just leave it where it is. I also say the same to my customers; A five year old system can't be much upgraded, better to keep it as it is and move on to the next system.About the 20% loss; With switching power supplies, like we are talking about, the loss isn't that much. A average cheap PSU will still have 65% average efficiency, while the more efficient go over 80%. They are also made to resist hot operation and should be in specs up to 40°C / 104°F room (case, as it sucks the hot air trough the PSU) temperature. Let's say that a 400W PSU has a efficiency of 72% and those 28% of the loss goes to heat, that would be 112W of heat, say a 125W bulb light. Now, note that it's not like a 125W bulb light inside that 150x150x92mm metal box as we also have a fan or two blowing over the electronics and not letting it heat up over 70°C as I see that more or less fatal for electronics to function well. Note, that most gaming systems with single Video Cards will not go over 300 in total, so in that case the loss will be 84W. If those 84W were from the 12V circuit (and it's not), it would be 7A, so forget the high numbers John . Not to prove you were wrong or so, just want to give a simple look on things so others can learn. Any way... what happened to the OP? Seems we are hijacking his topic .

Well, I was talking about "Lifetime" warranty, it seems that BFG promises indeed a very long warranty, others won't see "Lifetime" as more than 5 years, but there is a hook, "BFG Technologies warrants to the original purchaser of the graphics card included in this package", so, without the box your warranty is nil plus "original purchaser" looks like you have to register to get warranty. Never had a product from them, so never had an RMA on a BFG product.

"In case the computer being woken is communicating via Wi-Fi, the wake-up-packet can be sent via Wireless Multimedia Extensions (WMM).[1]. This may also be called Wake on Wireless LAN (WoWLAN).[2] Wakeup over Wi-Fi networks was not possible in previous implementations of Wake-on-LAN." I got that from Digeratiprime here on MSFN, and it seems that some Intel NICs do support it. And that indeed dated from years back. Before I remember there was a 3 pin header on mobo and on the NIC that would trigger the system to start up, also modems would do this but a telephone line is about 60V (In Holland at least), so power would not have been a problem. I'm a bit lost as well...

I must say I've never seen any WIFI NIC with WoL. To trigger a PC with a radio signal while the computer is in Sx (S1 or S3 for example) state will require at least some voltage on the card, in this case almost the full power is needed too function to use WoL over WIFI. I also think that WIFI can't work with "the magic packet" as they call it for WoL. But hey, I could be walking behind the facts . EDIT: And that 30USD Edimax doesn't have the option, no need to wait for a reply, that's just a stock N-draft (300 down max when not using any up) card. Let me point some of the network geeks to this topic .

720VA for a video card? No way it will go over, let's say, 280VA with even the most hungry non-commercial usage cards. As a side note, lifetime is 5 years .

The lifespan would be the same in my eyes, start/stop cycles will not kill a drive that fast even if it would do it every 10 minutes. Car engines have a lot more parts and use combustion and oils, and with that a lot more friction (Piston rings rubbing against the cylinder walls for example (for Wankel engines on seals and "valve"), so I would not compare a combustion engine with an electronic motor. Diesel engines need to warm up and cool down, especially when it comes to a turbo driven engine.Any way, enough about cars .