puntoMX

@ jaclaz (We won't ask where that Vista copy came from) . @ adrian2055, get the 160GB as it's not sure it will "see" the whole 160GB. Note that there are 120GB drives that could be seen completely but they are the same price and in general a bit slower. Also, try the 1GB sticks in the shop you buy them in, almost sure that 512MB will work but 1GB sticks are a pain in the *ss when it comes to DDR1, memory speed should not make much difference.

I think you just answered your own question; Replace that cable and see if the problem preexist.

With aero enabled?

But not with a video chip of 7 years old I presume... They say they get 2.6 in Vista but that's with the no "go" version... (and I presume the 128bit memory version) Edit: seems it can get up to some 2.8 out of 7.9 in Windows 7, I was expecting worse, more like the build in VGA driver that gives you a score of 1.0 . Any way, it will run glass way to slow, and for sure even hitting on the CPU as well... @ jaclaz, nice p*ssy.

If you force it but it will be slow as (...), Windows Experience Index will be at 1.0.

So it's AT with a hard-power-switch? Call me a fool but that can't be shut down unless you push it manually.

Excellent, this is what I was looking for for some months now (guess I didn't look deep enough into it). ConvertXtoDVD isn't for free and this is, has less options but who needs the bloat that comes with ConvertXtoDVD. Thank you DigeratiPrime!

Depends on what is wet. Any thing that sticks to the wall and comes down slowly I would think of . It will use the standard build in "generic" Intel driver for the chipset I would say, but I don't know about the nVidia FX5200, that one indeed could be a pain.But yes, to spend a license on a "build for XP" machine that is 8 years old could be a bit of overkill... I can get 45USD Windows 7 Starter here, that would work "okay" (but see my point on the nVidia driver). EDIT: The nVidia 5200 does work under Windows 7.

+1 on the Powersupply, the green light shows that the 5V line is okay. Most likely a dead 12V line. The motherboard has a SiS chipset that hasn't so much problems unlike a HP with nVidia 6100-6150/410-430 chipset; If that system came with the nVidia chipset you had to replace the mobo (but those are socket S939 and AM2) as they smoke out. A dead CPU is not likely... Try to get another PSU and test it, best way, less fuzz .

For XP compatibility mode you need VT enabled on CPU and BIOS, forget that on that CPU .512MB will do when you run Office and Internet apps, nothing more. Just put Windows 7 Premium 32bit on it and it will run fine, put in an extra DIMM of 1GB to get the 1.5GB, I would not pull out the 512MB you have there as memories are twice the price these days as they were 6 months ago. I presume it has 1 bank with 512, if it has 2x 256MB still get the 1GB and work with 1.25GB, bottle neck is that harddrive of 30GB which are slow as (fill in what you want, anything that doesn't move much)...

CAS 4 or 5 would not make much difference at all, you could get some lower latencies but that's all; only with benchmarks you would see a small difference but in usage you would not see much, however, onboard video could benefit from it (you are not using it so leave that aside). Higher bus speeds would do much more with AM3 (I think you can get the Southbridge to some 2500-2700MHz ). Too bad you could not unlock any thing, but I'm sure that CPU will do some 4GHz. The single core Sempron 140 can most of the time be unlocked to 2 cores, a 3 core AMD has a high change to work with the 4 cores, but a dual core to 4 cores is hard to get. What I mostly do is to buy a Athlon II and enable the L3 cache (on x2 2xx and x4 6xx). Unganged will do best in multitasking as it will use 2 64bit lanes to the memory so that would give you better overall performance. You could set it to ganged and get better write speeds and lower read speeds with single treated memory benchmarks. To tell you the truth; I'll keep all my configurations on unganged as it gives the smoothest performance, and that smoothness results in a more responsive computer, and that's what counts for most people: A smooth responsive computer .

Just way too overpriced, that's for sure.The Coolermaster is a good pick and comes with a solid base; not like the S775 plastic pins that you push trough the motherboard holes (yup, the ones that snap).

Now I see that you use the Windows 7 RC, witch isn't the RTM. The RC still had problems I found out with USB devices; For example the Nokia 3G internet stick had to be de-installed and reinstalled to work properly after a reboot.Also I would like to point to what nitropuppy said: The iTouch isn't what you say "well build" when it comes to software, apple did worse on other devices they released to the public but I won't blame a chipset or OS over the iTouch.

You can leave the memory to "Auto" on most motherboards, and swap the 1GB modules with the 2GB to the first or second group. Double channel isn't really the deal any more, even diferent sticks can be put in 128bit memory access mode (even different size sticks). When talking about memory performance on a AMD system you will have to play with the ganged or un-ganged memory access modes. Any way, what CPU are you going to use? There are still some good boards that support DDR2 with a AM3 socket; just be prepared to run the CPU on a bus of 2000MT/s and not what is stated for the AM3 CPU (up to 4000MT/s). The bus speed doesn't affect the speed the CPU works on, a 2.5GHz CPU will be a 2.5GHz CPU... A nice chipset is the 785G with the 710 southbridge; Inexpensive and fast (good onboard video as well with optional 128MB DDR3 (1066/1333) sideband RAM) and combine that with a Athlon II X4 620/630. With most of those CPUs the L3 cache can be unlocked giving you a Phenom at 60-70% the cost, but it's not warranted you can. Any need on picking the mobo? Just ask . In most cases I would go with Gigabyte but ASUS and some others make good AMD chipset based mobos as well...

You made that picture with the axle in your hand? Small system, not the newest one but those shuttles do look good indeed. Digeratiprime is a HUGE fan of those too by the way. For Image Hosting you can use kwikpiks.com, hosted by our own Zxian.

Is it a HP with nVidia chipset? About what laptop are we talking about any way?

lol Intel P4 had indeed more protection against no or not sufficient cooling, plus the heat spreader helped also.

Ha, first you let me read the whole topic and you already got the answer, it would have taken me 10 seconds to come up with the answer . Next time, rule out a CPU failure, the CPU almost never dies unless you really abuse it (1.8V at it or so ). PSU was indeed the first to check... By the way, those Socket A CPUs had hard cores that could crack, in those days it was most likely the CPU indeed.

When you put in the optical drive (and card reader or so), look good how to remove the front cover; it's sometimes a bit touch to pull it off (I'm using an external drive so I haven't popped mine of but some people do have problems with it). For me it was the 80+ cert. plus it's build out of more expensive components resulting in longer life when used 24/7 for example.Corsair 400CW is 80+ I know, but it's not sold at NCIX (Canada), I just made the list on that page . Win7 x64 would work just fine on it. Indeed, but please don't use XP 64bit. Linux will do fine also

We are here to help you out. That video card isn't really over kill but the CPU is/was; Plain and simple, that video card we pointed to is a midrange card (5750) and back in the days that the 4xxx series were the latest and greatest it was the 4850 that belonged in the list of high-end cards (4870 was better but way over priced compared with the 4850 and a lot later came the 4890 that is still high priced). New games will use all the prower those two cards offer at 1920*1080, but won't use the CPU with 4 cores about some, maybe 60%. Any way, the i5 is a very nice CPU, leaving the socket 775 CPU in the past (I don't know what to think about the i3 really), except the E3x00 Celeron witch is great on a G41 mobo and DDR3 (I saw that Gigabyte released a 775 mobo for DDR3) for no gaming setups (can even run CAD apps. nicely but s`cks in renders for example). We are always interested in what people pick these days and why . For me it was the 80+ cert. plus it's build out of more expensive components resulting in longer life when used 24/7 for example.EDIT: Grake, I hope that hard disk has a capacity above 160GB (eg. not older than 3-4 years), that would slow the whole system down for sure, plus a bigger risk of loosing data...

I just took the prices before rebate (it's a rip-off any way) . By the way, I presented those mobos as they have SATA gen. 3 and USB 3.0, so no new add-on card is needed in the future . Yup, that one, if you use the search option it doesn't show up so you have to check the main list indeed. I just wanted the OP to look over those cards .The setup is nice indeed CoffeeFiend, it's sure something to look into. The case is a bit personal but... The coolermaster 690 is better build than the Antec 300, it does have 1 HDD space less and it is more expensive indeed, but the value of the coolermaster is better. What I missed most with the Antec is the 5.25" to 3.5" bracket (used for a 3.5" card reader or so), not so easy to take out HDDs, and does need more work when routing cables inside for a clean look. Note that I like (and have) both, the coolermaster has a more value...

Gigabyte GA-790XT-USB3 AMD790X ATX AM3 DDR3 2PCI-E SATA USB3.0 2-WAY CrossFire GLAN Motherboard http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=490...acture=Gigabyte $138.99 CAD Also has SATA gen. 3 and USB 3.0 . Total 756 CAD... EDIT: and if you want to be exact at 700 CAD, change the video card for a HD4850, about the same performance as a HD4830 and HD4770...

Okay, here it is: Corsair XMS3 CMX4GX3M2A1600C9 4GB DDR3 2X2GB DDR3-1600 CL 9-9-9-24 Core I5 Dual Channel Memory Kit http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=425...facture=Corsair $109.99 CAD Coolermaster cm 690 Mid Tower Black ATX Case 5X5.25 5X3.5INT No PS Front USB Sound Firewire & eSATA http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=260...re=COOLERMASTER $81.83 CAD Coolermaster V8 CPU Heatsink Cooler LGA775/LGA1156/LGA1366/AM3 120MM Fan 800-1800RPM 17-21 dbA http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=350...re=COOLERMASTER $64.91 CAD Gigabyte 790FXTA-UD5 AMD790FX ATX AM3 DDR3 3PCI-E 3-WAY CrossFireX 2GBLAN SATA3 USB3.0 Motherboard http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=475...acture=Gigabyte $206.99 CAD Powercolor Radeon HD 5750 PCs 1GB 4.6GHZ GDDR5 2XDVI HDMI Display Port DIRECTX11 PCI-E Video Card http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=462...ture=PowerColor $154.99 CAD AMD Athlon II X4 620 Quad Core Processor Socket AM3 2.6GHZ 2MB Cache 95W Retail Box http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=426...manufacture=AMD $129.99 CAD OCZ Z-SERIES 550W 80+ Silver Certified 24PIN ATX 12V Afc Power Supply W/ 120MM Fan http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=452...mp;promoid=1061 $74.99 CAD A total of 824 CAD but you could go with a cheaper mobo there....

I think you better start over, forget Intel and go with an AMD X4 CPU (No, no AMD fanboy here but in that budget you almost have to go with AMD), if you are not willing to go with AMD you will end up with a powerful CPU and average to cheap (read no good for gaming) parts for the rest of your setup. May I suggest a setup?

How did you hook it up? To the motherboard or the Power Supply Unit?