tarquel

Like RogueSpear says, Group Policy is the easiest way to do it. It'll save you so much hassle and doesnt take long to setup either. I think you mean MST file and you can use that when adding it to the group policy object Regards Nath.

hehe I've seen very strange ones - like where we changed every component in the system [and i do mean *every*] and it still had the same problem. Now that was a very very weird day lol Regards Nath

Yep - had plenty of "tested fine" but are "physically damaged" hard drives here, so it could well be that when the HDD "bumps" [cant think how to put it right now] that the system locks up and the HDD light is on. Its further possible that the reason for the lockup is due to the problem area being where the OS has been installed on the HDD - though it isn't always the case. Of course, it could also be problem with overheating too - so check your temperatures, and also make sure the PSU is giving the system stable power [speedfan might help you check those btw ] failing that, treat yourself to a new, faster, bigger HDD and if the problem continues, at least you'll have a nice new HDD when you find the problem [if it does continue, take the new one out and put the old back in - you dont want to damage the new one prematurely after all lol] Regards Nath.

Based on that, i reckon that it could well be the motherboard (as I assume by "old computer" from your first post, that the motherboard is old) and this is causing the shorting out of the CD-ROM drives through the IDE cable somehow. I've seen it happen before - even if it seems a strange thing to happen - so I think thats what your looking at if the PSU isn't a cheap one [cheap ones of course being notorious for causing all manner of problems and being underpowered]. Another scenario would be a similar thing to what I said above, except that when you plugged in the new psu to the motherboard and initially gave it power - either soft off or properly on - the "faulty" motherboard somehow damaged the new PSU and in turn is now killing each new CD-ROM drive you put into the setup. I wish you luck - i hate these oddities. Hope this helps Nath.

If your using a method such as AutoRIS [or the newer AutoImage], then it is likely the reason for the problems [i've had no luck running RIPrep when using AutoRIS]. I havent bothered with RIPrep as using AutoRIS works for me [mainly hehe when i use it right ] Cheers Nath.

Hi there Try this in your SP2.sif file or in your WINNT.sif file LanguageGroup=1 Language=00000809 A little more tricker - i havent bothered with it myself, except that you can tell windows to use a certain default power scheme. I have it set by login script with a reg file merge i.e. [HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel\PowerCfg] "CurrentPowerPolicy"="3" but to actually change the Power Policy details, you need to use a 3rd party tool - such as the EZ GPO [though I havent got my head around it properly yet so I'm not using that currently]. You should be able to find that information in the deployment reference guide - the latest version is downloadable from the MS website i.e. http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details...;displaylang=en and check the help file - ref.chm Regards Nath

undead.... I'd be interested in those pics I think for now though I might have to connect them up to the computers themselves, but I'm still not 100% on where is going to be best to place them *puzzled* I'll post a pic later if I can showing the cupboard and "one type" of computer that is in them. Cheers Nath.

free to play online as a rule, but some games may have subscription charges... But the PS online network itself is free [The games I mention in my previous post are free to play online btw] ...so just get the hardware & get gaming online Nath.

DysfunktinaL... make a BartPE CD [adding the plugin and ghost32 of course] and boot it on the pc you want to create. You dont need to ghostcast it to the server if it doesnt work. You can create a [mapped] share with BartPE [providing the LAN is recognised] and then you can ghost to that location. You can use that image to ghostcast out after as you would do normally Thats how I've done it before anyhow - though these days I just use a UA cd, GP deployment & custom scripts for anything not GP-deploy-able Cheers Nath

Both Ghost and Acronis software are very good. Alot of the time, people will pick one based on price, personal preference, and recomendations. If you can trial them, then do so... look at the features, and decide what suits you better. Good luck Nath.

...and the same is true with Ghost too btw. Further, I believe [tho i'm not sure of the details] that Ghost leaves a trace on any ghosted image that you have deployed/created. Just so you know.. Nath.

No problem TomcaT... any time @SiMoNsAyS: Heres a few I [have] played: Time Splitters [3]: Future Perfect is pretty good. Always a few online. I give it a blast every now and then too. Good fun against real people. SSX 3 "should" be good but ever since i played it online, there's hardly been anyone about - still fun to race against ppl tho. Had some fun with that one. Tony Hawk games are online too - but i never could be bothered to "take it online" really. Plus it seemed like there was quite a few cheaters on TH: Underground ...not sure about the second Underground tho [i've got it but havent really tried it online properly]. Nath.

Just a thought but you could possibly buy a little desktop fan [i.e. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001IP...&n=11052681] and have its airflow point towards the case [presumably on the side where the air goes into the case]. You dont want it forcing the air in from the desktop fan I'd wager but rather, just to cool the air before it is being drawn in to the machine. As a bonus, if the unit is on top of your desk. you'll get a nice cool breeze in the bargain Just a thought if u dont want to mod the case. Regards Nath.

Hey. Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'd prefer one power "brick" to run at least two fans. The case fans i was looking at was the Antec Smart fans that have a temperture sensor in them [will they automatically change speed then I wonder?]. Anyone care to knock up a very very basic diagram? Its been a long time since i've done this sort of work hehe and like you said, i dont want it to catch fire or something :S Cheers Nath. PS. Do you think it would be safer using a molex connection on one of the pc's then? Alot less hassle most likely I would wager but.....

Hello all I'm not sure exactly where to start this thread but I thought that here was a good a place to do it as any. I'm wondering if anyone knows of a way to power computer case fans - in my situation, 120mm ones but the connectors are the same on them all [i think] - without them being connected to the computer's PSU... Why? you may ask........ And rightly so. It's down to the fact that I am mounting them in a cupboard [create a hole where the circular area of the fan is, and screw the fan into the wood of the cupboard. Given the limited budget i have - virtually zero - I thought this might be a useful way to extract air out of a cupboard. I think it could work out better than buying the presuambly expensive industrial type of ones I've found on the internet. Of course, if it comes to the worse, i could attach them to PSUs of the computers inside the cupboards... ["computers in cupboards - are you mad?" Yes i am, but its a great anti-vandalism technique... I work with kids you know lol] which is fine but i dont like to think of computers with any sort of wires sticking outside of the case - plus its a bit fiddley and if you forget that the fans are attached to them - i.e. if you need to get to them =- then its gonig to make matters worse when you here a ripping sound ;) But I digress.... What would be the best way do you think to achieve this? Are there any cheap power supplies [not particularly PC ones of course] that could do this? Its purely to extract heat due to the temperature inside the cupboard. Due to the particular design of the computers we are using, the fans inside the computers are on the side, as opposed to the front/back. While this isnt usually a problem in most cupboards [a simple drilling of lots of holes in the sides of the cupboards], i can't do this as the cupboards have tambour doors in them [meaning the sides of the cupboards cant be used. My plan is two large [120mm] case fans at the top / roof of the cupboard extracting air [as there is gaps between the shelfs] the air should be pulled upwards [although there are some holes in the back wall of the cupboard for the cables to go through etc which could very well disrupt this slightly] and I could have large vents [or additional case fans] sucking air into the cupboard near the bottom of the back of the cupboard [not at the very bottom for the obvious reason of drawing in dust - though the room is hoovered each day]. I did wonder whether wiring up a multi adaptor [http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/9820164.htm] and the case fans would work, as they are only low power devices surely. Any suggestions would be really welcome - but PLEASE bear in mind that I'm in the UK, so links to US products wouldnt be much use. Many thanks to those that can help Nath.

Have you tried the very later drivers for the wireless card? i know it works in the other system, but what may work for one machine, may not with another machine, so its worth a try. Make sure you get the right revision/model or it wont install. Uninstall it fully, remove it, install the driver package [follow the instructions given] then when its complete, either it will say to plug the card in or you'll likely want to restart the laptop before you plug it in. See if u get any luck with that. also, when uninstalling the current one, if there is anything like a Network Bridge installed in the network connections section, you could try removing that as I've found when windows bridges things, things tend to work less lol PS aaly's post makes me think.... make sure that the wifi card is using the same channel as the router, as if it isn't, it wont talk to the router of course [AFAIK]. Regards Nath

Hope you have it locked down via MAC addressing Have you tried connecting the Dell's laptop physically to the router? does that work? Cheers Nath

Try some of the following: - Make sure your Antivirus software is working and up-to-date - Make sure that you have sufficent Anti Spyware software installed and do regular checks using it [as well as keeping it up-to-date]. Also, be careful that you are not actually using a fake antispyware program - as of course, it will do nothing and probably give u more spyware. - Run Defrag on your hard drive after using scandisk to check and fix any errors. - clear out old temporary files - check the registry for errors and use a registry optimiser [like CCleaner] to clean it up [dont manually edit the registry unless you really know what you are doing] Try that little lot and let us know how that goes. Cheers Nath.

very handy tool that - good find, but careful with it or the game will be the least of your probs hehe u cud try lowering the frequency etc of the gfx chipset - might help stability and heat probs etc... [but do so at ur own risk of course] Regards Nath

Great stuff lylo... Will be checking some of these out very soon :D My g/f might like the lego one lmfao Cheers Nath.

when it comes to games, its usuallt always a good thing - but definately get a can of air too - overheating can cause physical damage to the machine remember if the airflow is interupted/restricted... Regards Nath.

(from http://www.ati.com/products/catalyst/mobility/index.html - on the next page: You should be fine - just uninstall the ones you have got installed - along with the control panel / CCC - and make sure u have Microsoft's .NET Framework 1.x installed. Regarding the air can...here you go.... i've had a look for you http://www.stretto.no/PartDetail.aspx?q=c:...502445;b:7;pl:1 http://www.stretto.no/PartDetail.aspx?q=c:...671300;b:7;pl:1 [the 2nd one is bigger capacity - its the one i have btw lol - tho obviously i didnt buy it from there but google.no it ] Enjoy, but dont spray it on your skin lol Nath.

It might be a bit fiddlely with the setup on the PS2 - and there maybe more to do - but if it doesnt even show that its connected, then you'll definately [99.9% sure] that you will need the crossover cable to start with The rest should all be down to configs & settings on the PC ...hopefully ...if its at all possible that is lol [if not, PS3 in November will sort it hehe ] Cheers Nath

No probs - tis a pleasure lol You are using the drivers from Acer's website yes? Yucky hehe Try pointing your browser here:http://www.ati.com/online/mobilecatalyst/ and download the latest mobile catalyst - works a treat on my Acer - and currently its catylyst 6.5 [just come out] .NET Framework 1.x is needed btw so make sure its fully installed before you try this driver by the way Keep the install for the other one handy just in case but it should be fine. Have a look at ATI's page on it as it mentions the supported chipsets there i believe: http://www.ati.com/products/catalyst/mobility/index.html [Dont worry about the fact it doesnt mention Acer in the list of laptop manufacturers supported - the little download at the bottom of the page is pointless as all it does is check to see whether your system is from the manufacturers on the list - so go direct to the source i.e. my first link hehe ] depends what fairly new means - if u have been using it for about 3 months+, then its worth doing ...hell, its worth doing anyway - removing any dust from the system will definately help any laptop that uses normal fans/ducts for cooling to perform better - after all, build up of dust on vents and in fans restricts airflow and prevents the effectiveness of the heat dispersion [or something like that hehe]. PS Got my laptop [see the sig] last sept-ish, and it was pretty clogged with dust - the system became stable again once i gave it a good "air-dusting" Good luck and let us know Nath

Not sure off hand myself but you are better off asking on some gaming forums possibly... That said, I'm sure its possible. I'm not up on boot sectors and the like but if u can get the boot sector of a 98 SE CD [that you own], you might be able to use that to use as the boot sector for your CD. I'm sure someone will have better boot sectors out there for this task tho. Good luck. Nath