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Gradius2

The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

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I'm another happy owner of an un-bricked Seagate with firmware SD25. I'm making a full backup at this moment.

 

Mine stopped being recognized by the BIOS one week ago. I talked with a friend and he told me that, since the disk did not produce strange sounds, maybe it was a problem with the controller. I took all the references and start digging for a controller to replace, but soon found that it would be necessary to transfer the ROM from the older controller to the new one. I found some companies that sell the adequate controller but it is necessary to swap the chips; none of those companies on Europe, just USA and Canada.

 

Luckily yesterday I found this forum and read the "Read Me First" and the "FGA" and the .pdf from Carter. So I understood that the 4 pins near the SATA connector are not for jumpers, but they are an RS232 port. Good! I thought I had all the necessary equipment, but unfortunately my RS232 to TTL converter is old and do not work with 3.3 V, just with 5 V :huh: . Then I remember that I have a development kit from with an MAX232 (smd) and tried it. Loop-back with 3.3 V worked well, it was time to try with the Seagate. The first time didn't work, but after swapping RX and TX, got connection with the Seagate :thumbup .

 

It was time for lunch. It's better never try risky details with an empty stomach :angel ! I power everything off.

 

After lunch I've got some difficulties to connect again with the Seagate. But after a couple of tries it was possible to establish the connection and do all the process with good results.

 

To prevent the risk of damaging the controller :dubbio: after removing the isolating card I place a piece of adhesive paper tape covering the 3 screws near the motor connector. Then (with no power) with the screwdriver, make some small holes on the adhesive paper tape to get access the the screw heads. Maybe this method can help someone; there are no need to practice and we can work without any stress.

 

After backing-up the disk I will try to install the new firmware that I got on the Seagate site. Any recommendations?

 

I'd like to thank everybody for the explanations and advices that allow me to recover a bricked Seagate.

Edited by malb

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I was really hoping I wouldn't have to post for help but I'm having trouble with my attempts at unblocking my drive.

 

I actually have two drives that seem to have failed with the same problem, they are detected in BIOS but only as ST_M13FQBL which I believe means they are both suffering the 0 LBA issue.

 

In order to attempt to fix these drives, I've bought two USB->TTL devices - both from Amazon UK but I can't seem to get either to bring up the prompt. With both devices, a feedback loop works just fine. They appear to be powered internally from the USB. I have connected both up in the same manner - i.e. TX/RX wires connected to the hard drives (both ways round tried) and ground from the adapter goes to a breadboard and then goes to the ground wire on the power supply connected to the hard drive and also to the ground pin connector on the drive itself.

 

 

I have been using a multimeter to check all the voltages and have noticed the following:

 

USB->TTL (Prolific Chip):

RX on adapter -> RX on drive reads 0V

TX on adapter -> TX on drive reads 3.26V

Temporarily removing ground to adapter gives nothing.

USB->TTL (Prolific Chip reverse connection):

RX on adapter -> TX on drive reads 2.61V

TX on adapter -> RX on drive reads 3.4V

Temporarily removing ground to adapter gives stream of gibberish.

 

USB->TTL (Silicon Labs CP210x)

RX on adapter -> RX on drive reads 3.28V

TX on adapter -> TX on drive reads 3.37V

Temporarily removing ground to adapter gives nothing.

USB->TTL (Silicon Labs CP210x reverse connection):

RX on adapter -> TX on drive reads 2.62V

TX on adapter -> RX on drive reads 3.45V

Temporarily removing ground to adapter gives stream of gibberish.

 

 

 

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do? I've ordered an additional two adapters from eBay which are supposedly 'built' for Seagate Firmware fixes but those look like they're going to take a week or two to arrive. I know there have been reports of people going through four or five adapters until they get a working solution but I wanted to see if there's anything I can do with these ones.

 

I am using Putty with 38400, 8, 1, none, none as I'm supposed to. I've tried Hyperterminal as well. I've also tried these adapters on two computers - a Windows PC running Windows 10 and now a MacBook Pro with a VMWare virtual machine running Windows 7 with the USB adapters connected directly to the VM.

 

I have tried these connections with the Seagate drive fully intact, with a card blocking the terminal and with the board completely removed. I have also tried it on a couple of other Seagate drives I have lying around. I get the same issue every time, no prompt, no feedback from the drives at all.

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Well, you cannot really measure anything "correctly" with a multimeter, but everything you report seems like fine.

The "sure" way is to have the PCB completely detached from the drive, when you hit CTRL+Z it should give you some feedback, but you also tried that and it doesn't work, it's strange, unless, and this is what I suspect, you are NOT in one of the two "known" cases (LBA0 or BSY), but rather in another, less common case, see:
http://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?t=11403&start=
(seemingly no solution for the 7200.11 :(, before the thread was hijacked to ES2 drives)
See also:
http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/154413-st32000542as-with-st-m13fqbl/

But the adapter should work anyway with the "other" (I presume "good") Seagate drives :unsure:.

jaclaz

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Thanks Jacklaz for the feedback, it's really appreciated. After reading your comments, I decided to go back and try the connector on some more drives. I took out another 1.5TB drive from my computer that I know for sure is still working and what do you know, this one did give feedback over Putty.

 

What I find really bizarre, is that I have two 1.5TB Seagate 7200.11 drives here that have failed with exactly the same symptoms and give no responses over a terminal connection and this problem doesn't seem to be the same as the 'common' ones. It just seems strange.

 

I'm not really sure where to go from here. I know PCB switches are supposed to be bad and require you desoldering a fiddly chip but is it something even worth trying? I don't mean the soldering, I don't want to risk that but maybe just a switch to see if that gets me anywhere?

 

The drives that have failed both have the same model numbers but they have slightly different part numbers (9JU138-002 and 9JU138-001) different firmwares (CC1H and CC1G respectively). I have at least two drives that have exactly the same part numbers and firmwares as one of them (the 002, CC1H ones). Is it worth trying a pcb switch?

 

I know it's looking far more likely that I'm going to have to get the professionals involved but I suspect finding a recovery centre that isn't going to fleece me is going to be tricky and besides which, I only need the data off one of the drives but I have no idea which of the two that is - one is full of actual data and one is just useless junk!

 

Edit: I think my problem is different after all. Both of my drives click 11 times on startup, which looks to be unrelated but gives similar errors (I originally searched for the weird name of the drives in the BIOS and 11 clicks and through several click throughs of google results and threads, ended up here). I'm going to try and clean the contacts tomorrow on the drive with alcohol but I'm not holding out much hope.

Edited by Spanky Deluxe

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Ah well, the 11 clicks are in jargon called "click of death". :(

 

There is simply nothing :no: that you can do with a simple converter, nor through PCB swapping, which SHOULD NOT EVEN BE THOUGHT OF (unless you transplant or backup and restore the firmware) see:

http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/150215-dont-even-think-of-swapping-pcbs-on-720011/

 

In a case of the "click of death" it is difficult even to estimate the probabilities that someone with the "right" tools (PC-3000 or similar) would be capable of "fixing" it (at the most recovering the data) or if more complex operations involving doing some hard disk surgery (such as heads or platters transplant) would be needed.

 

JFYI, more or less a modern hard disk behaves like a "full PC", on power on some "boot" firmware (on the PCB ROM - actually Eprom or Flash) is read and executed, and the idea is that the "booting" of the disk drive continues reading some more code and data from a specific area on the platters.

The 11 clicks may mean both that the contents of the firmware are somehow corrupted (and for a pro it is relatively easy to restore them) i.e. they point to a "wrong" area of the platters or that the given area is correct but for *some reasons* cannot be read correctly.

This again bifurcates in a "simpler" corrupted area on the platter (that in some cases can be bypassed, reading anyway the actual "user" data on the platters) or in a "more complex" issue caused by a hardware problem with the actual arm or heads or motor.

 

jaclaz

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Yeah, I'm going to call it a day on my attempts to fix it, connecting to it with a converter was one thing and unlikely to cause any problems but I really don't want to lose my data so it's time to call in the professionals - something an IT 'pro' like me hates to admit! I'm not going to let my pride get in the way of data recovery though!!

 

Do you happen to know of any good UK based data recovery folks? I'm London based but could obviously ship it further afield. No worries if not, I'll just resort to googling and getting quotes but I figured I'd ask just in case.

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Yeah, I'm going to call it a day on my attempts to fix it, connecting to it with a converter was one thing and unlikely to cause any problems but I really don't want to lose my data so it's time to call in the professionals - something an IT 'pro' like me hates to admit! I'm not going to let my pride get in the way of data recovery though!!

 

Do you happen to know of any good UK based data recovery folks? I'm London based but could obviously ship it further afield. No worries if not, I'll just resort to googling and getting quotes but I figured I'd ask just in case.

I cannot give you any recommendation on this, but you may want to make a post on hddguru forum and ask there (members on there being mostly in the field of data recovery are probably better suited for this - though they are usually *somehow* not particularly friendly with newbies ) at least it is worth a shot.

 

The only advice I can give you is be very careful in choosing, there are - I believe - a large number of firms/people - hmmm :unsure: - let's call them a little optimistic in advertising their abilities/capabilities, or have a not-so-clear approach, just an example:

http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/170773-xbstart-219-stable-navigate-windows-81-with-an-xbox-controller/?p=1081791

 

jaclaz

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I've requested quotes from a number of companies now and have heard back from one or two. The one that you linked to that quotes £97 at the start was the first to get back to me (I literally got a phone call within minutes of completing the online form) and I was all set to go with them but having googled them, it seems that their usual actual repair costs are £500-£1000. I'd rather have an up front price so I know what I'm getting, so I'm going to wait a few days for the other quotes to come in.

 

One thing that strikes me as crazy though is that so many of these companies charge up to £200 for data recovery that requires no physical work done on the drives. You can buy excellent recovery software for that price!

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I've requested quotes from a number of companies now and have heard back from one or two. The one that you linked to that quotes £97 at the start was the first to get back to me (I literally got a phone call within minutes of completing the online form) and I was all set to go with them but having googled them, it seems that their usual actual repair costs are £500-£1000. I'd rather have an up front price so I know what I'm getting, so I'm going to wait a few days for the other quotes to come in.

The risk with an upfront price is that it may be - for obvious reasons - much higher than the actual cost of the *whatever* is needed.

I mean, let's bring this to another field, medicine/surgery :w00t::ph34r:.

Do you usually try to be visited by a MD (that will provide a diagnosis for a price, say UK£ 100) and only later - and only if really needed - go to a surgeon/clinic and pay (say) UK£ 10,000 for an operation and hospitalization?

Or you prefer a flat rate of (say) UK£ 9,000 for something that can be cured with a couple of aspirins?

One thing that strikes me as crazy though is that so many of these companies charge up to £200 for data recovery that requires no physical work done on the drives. You can buy excellent recovery software for that price!

Sure you can buy excellent recovery software for that money, point might be IF that *automagical* software will be able (in your hands) to recover the same amount of data a data recovery expert might be able to (possibly using some of his experience, some other tool, manual hex editing and what not).

Of course in many cases there is no real difference as the form of data corruption is either trivial to fix or the amount of data recovered is "enough".

But one of the issues with data recovery (broadly speaking) is that in "positive" cases (i.e. when you or the "automagical" program can recover the WHOLE lost data) everything is fine and dandy :), but when no or only partial data can be recovered there is (and there always be) a doubt, would another software be able to recover "more"?, would an expert be able to recover "more than the automated software(s)"?, would another expert be able to recover "more than the former expert"? ... :unsure:

In my little experience (and as a hobbyist, with limited tools and knowledge/experience) I happened to manually recover data that some experts (either real ones or self-proclaimed ones) had missed or deemed to be impossible to retrieve (or re-build, this latter possibly *somehow* "out of the scope" of their job), so you never really know.

jaclaz

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I press Ctrl + Z

but I have another message LED 13 or Led 1102

 

post-399836-0-72519000-1447192811_thumb.

 

I change RX and TX I get it

 

post-399836-0-42978600-1447186280_thumb.

 

help .... already tried several adapters ...

Chip Marvel port: 57600 ,, Chip samsung: 38400
Edited by mcsoba

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Just want to thank everybody, especially Carter from Canada. I just recovered one Seagate HDD for a friend and he is thrilled since he didn't do a backup of his important files, and he is doing it now. :D

 

Cheers ;)

  • Upvote 1

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Hello friends.

I ran in to a problem.

Here is what I got. I got a windows xp (russian version) laptop with usb to ttl adapter.

I power my adapter with 3.3 volt from the power supply from the old computer.

I apply common ground to a third from the right pin on the hard drive, the same ground that feeding my usb to ttl adapter.

When I start a terminal and do a loopback test everything works. I get the typed letters back.

When I connect the drive and power it up and press ctrl+z I get a gibberish on the screen. Unreadable symbols. I have rx from the adapter go to tx on the hard drive and tx on the adapter goes to rx on the hard drive so everything is correct.

I tried to use PUTTY to connect and it did bring the prompt F3 T> but when I started typing "/2" it started displaying gibberish again.

What to do, other then try rs232 to ttl adapter?

Why do I get garbage on the screen in a terminal window instead of letters? Do I need to install certain fonts or change the encoding? Right now I have a ms dos font in terminal. I tried with every possible system font enabled and native terminal still sending garbage, however a loopback test comes through clear.

I read as much of this mega thread as I possibly can without loosing my mind. Anyone please help.

Thank you

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"Gibberish" is usually derived from improper GROUNDing of ALL devices involved.

 

Please re-read the Read-me-first point #7

http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/143880-seagate-barracuda-720011-read-me-first/

AND (just in case) a few posts starting from here:

http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/128807-the-solution-for-seagate-720011-hdds/page-153#entry968299

 

Do review your setup, EVERY device involved needs to be grounded together.

 

As a side note, It is EXTREMELY rare :unsure: that a USB to TTL needs an external power source, all the USB converters I ever saw (with the exception possibly of one or two "phone cables") took power from the USB bus.

 

jaclaz

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Hey guys, I bought a USB to TTL converter (see pic) and I was able to get to the point where I have to power down the HDD. The problem is that when I power it up again it does not stop spinning, not even after 18 hours.

My answer is, can I spin down the HDD by sending the CTRL+Z --> Z command? Because I believe it will not stop spinning not even after a week or a month.

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

For other people that may buy this particular converter (0,89€+free shipping and no need for soldering), here's how I was able to establish connection:

Converter            HDD

TXD        <-->        TXD
RXD        <-->        RXD
GND        <-->        GND

And I used a second, old power supply to power the HDD with a molex to SATA power converter.

To make sure I will not drop a screw on the PCB, I made a stencil (see pic) out of a piece of cardboard that has the exact dimensions as the PCB and cut holes with an exacto knife, slightly larger than the head of the screw, to pass through easily.

Drivers for this particular USB to TTL converter: http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?p_id=225&pcid=41

11ky1zq.jpg
 

Thank you :)

Edited by puzzler
  • Like 1

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Hi.

Sorry for my, very, bad english.

After step N1 you just power off your disk, wait few seconds an power up again. Then you continue. Keep the motor runnig. At this time you send Ctrl+z and type m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22. Await reply. Eventually type Z to stop the motor. If you have success your disk is readable.

Edited by coplan27

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