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Gradius2

The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

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I understand that I have to combine this ...
even missing another converter until the PC port ...
 
I think myself could fabricate this cable using only one DB9 male to USB, changing the pinout ....
but i discover now this cable must be a professional,,right?
 
is not so very simple this cable have to buy same,, why has microchip involved for this conversion,,right? http://www.ftdichip
 
I thought it was just changing the pin DB9 to USB,,,,D+/TX,,,,D-/RX,,,,GND/GND

 

thank you ...

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hi

I can convert this USB to DB9 Adapter only changing the pins???

 

http://i.imgur.com/jLQ4Y5N.jpg

 

USB = VCC + DCD  + DSR + RI + RTS 

DB9 = DCD + RXD + TXD + DTR + GND + DSR + RTS + CTS + RI

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Please,     READ again point #6 of the READ-ME-FIRST! :realmad:

 

If - no matter because you do not understand English or you are not familiar with electronics - you have difficulties with it, see if you can find a friend that can help you :).

 

 

It is NOT POSSIBLE to convert USB to Serial (nor serial to TTL nor USB to TTL) by simply changing pinouts, they are DIFFERENT communication protocols, additionally using DIFFERENT voltage levels.

 

GOOD:

Your PC's Serial Port->RS232 to TTL[1] converter->Hard disk 

Your PC's USB port ->USB to TTL[1] converter->Hard disk

Your PC's USB port ->USB to RS232 converter->RS232 to TTL[1] converter->Hard disk

 

BAD:

Anything not listed under "GOOD" above.

 

YOU CANNOT build yourself *anything* until you understand the BASICS of this matter, and if you understand the BASICS of this matter you wouldn't be here asking crazy questions. 

 

See if you understand better reading this :unsure::

http://www.robotizando.com.br/artigo_conversor_ttl_pg2.php

 

jaclaz

 

[1] TTL at 3.3 V level AND NOT TTL at 5V level.

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Try insulating the "other" set of contacts or try with the PCB completely detached from the drive, see here:

http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/128807-the-solution-for-seagate-720011-hdds/?p=1079049

 

jaclaz

Thanks jaclaz, great to see youre still active on this thread and take the time to reply to noobs like myself.

 

Anyway,

 

Tried the motor contacts ,

 

Got a Spin down fine,

 

Spin up was tricky, it has to be timed perfectly, tho once I get it up, it wont allow me to type any further commands to continue the process.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks again

 

EDIT: NEVER MIND!

 

Got it! Drive at least shows in windows under disk management, getting 0mb error, so will have to try repair that next.

Edited by Valo

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Jaclaz, just wanted to thank you again,

 

I got this drive fully working after following your advice,

 

Having had the drive sit on a shelf for 4yrs, and various attempts to repair it, I was taking one last shot before I destroyed it.

 

Glad I did now! Nice 1tb of storage back, with some old gems of data I thought were gone forever.

 

Just one final question, how safe is it to use now?

 

I dont think i'll be keeping anything too important on it in the future anyway.

Edited by Valo

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Jaclaz, just wanted to thank you again,

 

I got this drive fully working after following your advice,

 

Having had the drive sit on a shelf for 4yrs, and various attempts to repair it, I was taking one last shot before I destroyed it.

 

Glad I did now! Nice 1tb of storage back, with some old gems of data I thought were gone forever.

 

Just one final question, how safe is it to use now?

 

I dont think i'll be keeping anything too important on it in the future anyway.

Happy we have another happy bunny:

http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/128727-cant-access-repair-my-pc-option-via-f8-startup/?p=828512

 

Once you have retrieved the data, it's up to you, my advice is in last paragraph of point #5 of the READ ME FIRST:

http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/143880-seagate-barracuda-720011-read-me-first/

 

Basically:

  1. perform manufacturer test
  2. update (if needed) firmware
  3. perform again manufacturer test

If the tests come out successfully then the disk is in theory as reliable as any other disk, in practice it is better to use it only as secondary backup.

If the tests come out with an error simply throw away the disk. 

 

jaclaz

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hello
I'm problem with HyperTerminal,, I have connected cable usb/serial + adapter serial/TTL max232 + 3.3v orange power supply and Black GND + TX and RX on HD
 
when I enter the HyperTerminal CTRL+Z It appears only strange symbols,,, the characters in different keyboards,,,
 
I installed the drivers from the cd  USB-SERIAL CH340 (COM3)
 
; CH341SER.INF
; Driver for CH341 (USB=>SERIAL chip) V3.1

 

 

This drive should be PL2303_Prolific ??,, ma I cannt reverse the drivers ...

 

Edited by mcsoba

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I connect the GND on the adapter and 3.3v from PSU,,,this ok ....
 
more adapter has only one ground output,,,
 
to HD also connect the same ground from adapter? so i need connect GND from adapter to HD and PSU together?? 
 
I am using these two:

http://i.imgur.com/7Lw6nHF.jpg

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Please do read the given link posts:

http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/128807-the-solution-for-seagate-720011-hdds/page-153#entry968299

AND the read-me-first (which is here if you haven't found it):

http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/143880-seagate-barracuda-720011-read-me-first/

 

ALL in "ALL devices must be grounded together" means "ALL", it doesn' t mean "some" or "a few" or "a part", how do you say "Todos os dispositivos ..." in Brazil ? ;)

 

 

 

 

more adapter has only one ground output,,,
 

 

If needed think octopus :w00t: :

http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/128807-the-solution-for-seagate-720011-hdds/?p=968346

(which you would have found had you actually read the given link)

 

 

jaclaz

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i continues without understanding how to connect the ground ...
Octopus in this case and adapter?
gnd need to plug together on tip adapter or the tip of PSU??
You should draw a schematic for me ...
 
Tk ...
 
 
loopback test I'm trying to do but nothing appears nehum character ....
just when I backboard the ground on rx or tx separate appears strange characters,, hearts,,interrogations ....
when I backboard rx and tx not have any return,,,
this happens only in 5v,,3v not working ...

 

what's wrong with hyperterminal?

Edited by mcsoba

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It's very simple EVERY device HAS to be grounded properly and if a device has more than one ground wire then EVERY one of them HAS to be connected to a ground.

  • Upvote 1

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You need to understand the concept of "voltage".

 

Voltage is a "level", or more exactly a electric potential difference.

https://en.wikipedia.org/?title=Voltage

 

Take two common batteries and a multimeter as an example:

-[battery]+-[battery]+

0          1          2

if you measure voltage between 0 and 2 you will read 3 V, and if you measure voltage between 0 and 1 you will read 1.5 V, but if you measure between 1 and 2 you will read 1.5 V as well:

  • between 2 and 0 there are 3V as (1.5+1.5)-0=3 V
  • between 1 and 0 there are +1.5-0=1.5 V
  • between 2 and 1 there are 3-1.5=1.5 V

If you prefer point 2 is at +3 V over ground level (i.e. relative to point 0) and at level +1.5 V relative to point 1.

 

The TTL levels used in this hard disk and converter use very "narrow" intervals, and signals are transmitted at a relatively high speed, so an even minimal difference in the "base level" can lead to mis-communication.

 

The idea is that if ALL the ground or 0 level points of ALL devices involved are connected together, they are ALL at the same level, a so-called equipotential connection or isopotential locus:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equipotential

this allows the "peaks" (which are the actual 0's and 1's transmitted) to be at the correct level, because they "share a common base".

 

More in detail, according to specs a "peak" measured between the Tx and Ground between 0.35 V and 0.8 V is a "0", and a "peak" measured between the Tx and Ground  between 2.0 V and 3.3 V is a "1".

 

If the TTL converter sends a "0" by sending an impulse at 0.6 V, but the ground (for whatever reason) is locally at 0.21 volts, a connected device with ground at the proper level of 0 V may "receive" it at 0.6+0.21=0.81 V and fail to "understand" it as being a "0", since these peaks are transmitted at a 38400 baud/rate there is the added complication of transition times (from 0 to the peak and back).

 

When doing a loopback test this is not an issue, as there is no other device connected and of course the Tx and Rx of the converter share a "common base".

 

If the loopback tests do not succeed, you have in your hands a *somehow* defective hardware, if you do the loopback test a the TTL level you have no way to know if the defective part is the USB to RS-232 or the RS-232 to TTL converter, so you should additionally do a loopback test on the RS-232 terminals, pinout and howto can be found here:

http://www.ni.com/tutorial/3450/en/

 

Be careful, the RS-232 has a relatively high voltage level, and if you misplace some connection you can "fry" something.

 

All in all, if you feel not familiar enough with the involved matters, are you sure you don't have a (local of course) friend with some more experience in the field?

There is nothing actually complex *anyone* with a very minimal electric/electronic experience or education can do properly the testing (and the grounding).

 

jaclaz

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by jaclaz
  • Upvote 1

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I tried it with other adapters: CA-42 and PL2303HX USB para RS232 TTL

 

AHQYGzR.jpg?1

still not work,,what is wrong? I understand t have connect the 4 ground wires together...

1point PSU - 2point AAC - 3point Adater - 4 point HD em

 


in the form of X ? 4point

as if it were X ?

 


 

and i turn the 2AA 1.5+1.5 .... ok

 

in adapter i turn batery on pin 3.3v or 5v ??

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The adapter in your last post is seemingly a USB to TTL converter.

 

Without the specifications it is impossible to know if it works at the 3.3 V (good) TTL level or at the 5 V (bad) TTL level (this has nothing to do with the 3.3 V and 5 V pins that you have on that adapter that are used - if needed - to provide power to the device, the fact that it has a 3.3V power pin may mean that it is the "right" kind).

 

You need NOT a battery in this setup, the adapter is powered by the USB port and the disk drive is powered "normally" by a PC PSU though its power connector.

 

"Still not work" means nothing, last time you had issues with the loopback test, what happens with this other adapter when attempting a loopback?

 

To recap:

  1. loopback test: if it works the adapter works, if it doesn't the adapter is dead (and you need NOT any grounding for the loopback test)
  2. communicating with the drive: if it works good, if it doesn't try exchanging Tx and Rx connections, if the devices are not grounded together you may see "random" or "garbage" characters and you will need effectie grounding together of all devices involved

 

jaclaz

  • Upvote 1

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