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Gradius2

The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

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The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs (final and revised version):

Press CTRL+Z on terminal and type:

Partition regeneration:

F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22 (enter)

If you didn't get the msg above, then you skipped something important, and turning off your drive now will render an unreadable drive, so be careful.

Gradius

hey,

iv'e accidentally turned the off the drive before getting the messages back from "m0,2,2,,,,,22".

now, when i powering up the drive, its making weird sounds of "beep, beep, beep".

did i totally bricked my drive? or there is a way back?!

thanx.

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I'm afraid so (but I can't say for sure of course) :}

You *could* try the following (untested and at your own risk):

  • Remove PCB from drive or insulate the contacts to the actuator/motor again
  • Apply power to PCB
  • Type: CTRL+Z which should give you the "F3 T>"-prompt
  • Type: "/2" to get to level 2 (prompt gives: "F3 2>")
  • Type: "Z" to "spin down" the motor
  • Reseat the PCB back to the drive (or remove the insulation)
  • Type: "U" to spin up the motor again (you should hear it spinning up)
  • Type: "/1" to go to level 1 (prompt shows: "F3 1>")
  • Type: "m0,2,2,,,,,22" (and hope for the best...)
  • WAIT until you see a message like:
    Max Wr Retries = 00, Max Rd Retries = 00, Max ECC T-Level = 14, Max Certify Rewrite Retries = 00C8
    User Partition Format Successful - Elapsed Time 0 mins 00 secs
  • If you get an error-message or the drive is "Beep-beep-beep"-ing again, it
    apparently didn't work and the drive is f****d up :wacko:
    (Or someone might have other suggestions?)

Above commands need to be entered without the "Quotes" of course.

Good luck,

Peter.

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BSY and the LBA0 problems do not have any beeping sounds associated with them. I'm afraid you now have a different problem.

hey,

iv'e accidentally turned the off the drive before getting the messages back from "m0,2,2,,,,,22".

now, when i powering up the drive, its making weird sounds of "beep, beep, beep".

did i totally bricked my drive? or there is a way back?!

thanx.

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I'm afraid so (but I can't say for sure of course) :}

You *could* try the following (untested and at your own risk):

[*]Remove PCB from drive or insulate the contacts to the actuator/motor again

[*]Apply power to PCB

[*]Type: CTRL+Z which should give you the "F3 T>"-prompt

[*]Type: "/2" to get to level 2 (prompt gives: "F3 2>")

[*]Type: "Z" to "spin down" the motor

[*]Reseat the PCB back to the drive (or remove the insulation)

Until here all fine.

this is the terminal output:

F3 T>/2

F3 2>Z

Spin Down Complete

Elapsed Time 0.135 msecs

[*]Type: "U" to spin up the motor again (you should hear it spinning up)

once im typing 'U', (terminal output: F3 2>U), this weird noise starts (and no output returned). maybe it's the motor not spinning?

any suggestions? im very frustrated.

thanx again.

Edited by sons

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i can get the drive to spindown F3 2>z spin down complete elapsed time 0.140 msecsbut get error 1009 DETSEC 00006008 spin error elapsed time 1min 57sec r/w status 2 r/w error 8415

gftfvnvfdsx

F3 2>Z

Spin Down Complete

Elapsed Time 0.140 msecs

F3 2>U

Error 1009 DETSEC 00006008

Spin Error

Elapsed Time 1 mins 57 secs

R/W Status 2 R/W Error 84150180

F3 2>

0180 please help or advise thanks

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@sons: if your drive was working normally before the BSY/LBA0-problem occured, I find

it highly unlikely, the drive motor suddenly stopped working while unbricking it...

But... anything is possible, of course. :whistle:

If you carefully tap the side of the drive with the handle-end of a screwdriver while trying

to spin up the drive-motor again, does it sound like it's spinning or is it still making all

kinds of unhealthy noises?

@hurn: of course I can't be sure about this (since I got my drive working at the first try),

but I guess that either the contacts of the motor or those of the actuator don't touch

the PCB properly...

Are they bent perhaps, or maybe they're dirty?

Normally it should only take about 5 to 10 seconds for the motor to spin up again,

not almost 2 minutes:

F3 2>U

Spin Up Complete

Elapsed Time 6.824 secs

Does it sound like it's spinning or is it staying dead silent?

Otherwise, it *could* mean the PCB is defective... :(

Greetz,

Peter.

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hi it sounds as though it is trying to spin up

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Ok...So, I have this problem, just found this thread, I've read several different versions of the instructions, even the ones on the google page.

BUT, my sata power cable I think for the harddrive? all the sections are black, and there's only four wires, whereas the ones pictured have six I believe with easily distinguishable colors.

I also don't have a serial port, so i'm assuming I'll have to use the nokia thingy for usb.

But the instructions seem like they're for advanced DIY'ers, I am far and away, an amateur. So is it possible to get the steps in laymens terms X:

Also perhaps a list of links to everything I would need to buy that I might not have? A retail list would be amazing.

Or perhaps there's a simpler way just to get the data off the drive? I care little for the drive it self, There's just a few folders I wish to save, maybe 10~20 gb's.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated, the 'bricking' of this drive has made the computer unusable[i'm saving up to build a whole new computer, didn't feel like spending the money on a replacement harddrive for this outdated one.

OH, also a list of programs I might need to do it? XP was on the harddrive so I'm not really sure what all I need.

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If you're not at least a bit technical, it's highly unlikely you will succeed

in unbricking the drive yourself :no:

Some people offer their help here, maybe there's someone in your neighbourhood

that is willing to help (for something like a bottle of wine perhaps) ;)

Just tell where you're from; maybe we can work something out?

The drive first needs to be unbricked before anything can be salvaged from it;

in fact the drive isn't even really defective, its just the firmware (that's

the software inside the drive) that's hanging, similar to a program on your PC

that's freezing, which is why the drive isn't recognized by your PC anymore.

If you do know someone with a little knowlegde of electronics, it can indeed

be done with a (modified) interface like the Nokia CA-42 USB cable, so see your

friends and relatives and ask around, maybe you're lucky B)

List of things you'll need:

  • A friend or relative with at least a bit of DIY knowledge (preferably in electronics)
  • A computer with HyperTerminal (or similar)
  • A serial interface that outputs TTL levels (like a CA-42 USB cable)
  • A pair of cutting pliers and a way to connect the cut wires to the drive.
    (See some of the hints in this topic; even sticky tape *could* work, but is not recommended)
  • A SATA-power supply (can be taken from the "un-brick computer")
  • The first page of this thread :hello:

After that it's just:

  • Modifying the CA-42 interface (cut off the connector that originally
    went to the mobile phone) :)
  • Connecting the interface to your PC and installing the drivers
  • Insulating the drive's PCB from the drive's contacts
  • Connecting the interface to the diagnostics port of the drive
  • Applying power to the drive's PCB
  • Creating a terminal connection with HyperTerminal
  • Following the first instructions (press CTRL+Z, spin down the drive)
  • Removing insulation that separated the PCB from the drive's contacts
  • Following the rest of the instructions (spin drive up again and follow
    further directions).
  • Removing power supply from drive
  • Re-attaching the drive to the PC in the normal way
  • Starting PC and see if the drive is recognized again

If all went well you should:

  • Backup the (most important) files on the drive
  • Download, burn to CD and run SeaTools for DOS (reboot from burned CD)
  • Test drive with a short and long DST-test (it most likely will give
    you some error code)
  • Create an RMA at Seagate to have the drive swapped using the reported errorcode

Greetz and good luck,

Peter.

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  • A serial interface that outputs TTL levels (like a CA-42 USB cable)

Small correction (again) :whistle::

  • A serial interface that outputs TTL levels (like a WORKING CA-42 USB cable) or, better a proper, documented, converter.

@WiNuWiNu

The easiest (as it is complete and well detailed) tutorial is this one:

http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html

with pictures AND links to a "good brand" adapter, please note that there are tens of these that are good, including a number (BUT NOT ALL) Nokia cables, simply review the present thread, a lot of people have posted where they found the converter they successfully used.

Depending on what computer(s) you have available you may want to go for either a RS-232 serial to TTL or to a USB to TTL converter.

jaclaz

Edited by jaclaz

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See this page!

i can get the drive to spindown F3 2>z spin down complete elapsed time 0.140 msecsbut get error 1009 DETSEC 00006008 spin error elapsed time 1min 57sec r/w status 2 r/w error 8415

gftfvnvfdsx

F3 2>Z

Spin Down Complete

Elapsed Time 0.140 msecs

F3 2>U

Error 1009 DETSEC 00006008

Spin Error

Elapsed Time 1 mins 57 secs

R/W Status 2 R/W Error 84150180

F3 2>

0180 please help or advise thanks

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See this page!

Well, NO.:unsure:

Generally, it is NOT adviced to use "nail thinner" as it could adversely affect the plastic parts of the connectors/PCB, as it usually contains trichloroethane, if using anything like it or acetone:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetone

be very careful NOT to use it on plastic parts.

To clean contacts use isopropil alcohol:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol

or a dedicated electric contact cleaner.

A very good way to clean gold plated contacts is to use an abrasive rubber, such as (now really difficult to find) typewriter erasers.

jaclaz

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Ok...So, I have this problem, just found this thread, I've read several different versions of the instructions, even the ones on the google page.

BUT, my sata power cable I think for the harddrive? all the sections are black, and there's only four wires, whereas the ones pictured have six I believe with easily distinguishable colors.

I also don't have a serial port, so i'm assuming I'll have to use the nokia thingy for usb.

But the instructions seem like they're for advanced DIY'ers, I am far and away, an amateur. So is it possible to get the steps in laymens terms X:

Also perhaps a list of links to everything I would need to buy that I might not have? A retail list would be amazing.

Or perhaps there's a simpler way just to get the data off the drive? I care little for the drive it self, There's just a few folders I wish to save, maybe 10~20 gb's.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated, the 'bricking' of this drive has made the computer unusable[i'm saving up to build a whole new computer, didn't feel like spending the money on a replacement harddrive for this outdated one.

OH, also a list of programs I might need to do it? XP was on the harddrive so I'm not really sure what all I need.

see the post from VideoRipper. I would suggest that you find someone to help you as it seems that this is beyond your technical expertise. Where do you live? Maybe someone local can help. Have you read the first post in this thread?

Edited by mundy5

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Thanks to Seagate's utter incompetence and willingness to disregard their customers, I find myself here after finding my ST3500320AS is now completely bricked.

I have studied this thread as thoroughly as I think I need to complete the fix, although with minimal electronics knowledge I have one main question. I am going to use the CA-42 cabling method as I have a few on hand that seem to be in working order, but my question comes in regards to the connection between the cable wires and the PCB. I have no soldering equipment so anything to do with that is not an option, are there some sort of jumpers I can purchase that will fit the PCB connection? What would the consequence be if the RX-TX wires accidently shorted during the terminal session?

If someone could provide close up pictures of their cable wire to PCB connections it would be much appreciated. Are there any hints or tricks without the need of a soldering iron? I don't want the connections to drop out midway through the terminal session or at any stage of the process to be honest. Cheers in advance for anyone who provide help :)

Edited by Buch0

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What would the consequence be if the RX-TX wires accidently shorted during the terminal session?

If someone could provide close up pictures of their cable wire to PCB connections it would be much appreciated. Are there any hints or tricks without the need of a soldering iron? I don't want the connections to drop out midway through the terminal session or at any stage of the process to be honest. Cheers in advance for anyone who provide help :)

No problem if you short TX-RX, you will simply do a "loopback" test. :)

There are several detailed view of the connections in the thread, take your time on it and you will find them.

Best, without a soldering iron, is to use some copper wire non-flexible, typically telephone cables (not the ones from the phone to the wall outlet, the ones from the wall outlet onwards) or network cables are good.

You simply get a nail, slightly smaller in diameter than the HD pins and wrap a piexe of the naked cable around it in a TIGHT spiral.

You will see how you can easily slip it off the nail (or pin) if turning it in one direction and how steady it is if you try turning it in the other direction o simply try to pull it off.

Then you simply intertwine the other end of the piece of cable with the wire coming off the converter and wrap it in insulating tape.

The technique is called "wirewrap" and is was commonly used in telephone PBX's and the like:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_wrap

If you want to create your own "poorman's" wire wrapper tool, all you need is a small metal tube (Hint: the needle of a big syringe - like those sometimes used to apply lubricants or compounds) with a cut notch on one side will do.

jaclaz

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