Messerschmitt

When I press the power button it starts up.

I rekon I only installed the chipset which came with the CD, so I will try update it with the newer one in the gigabyte site. And I don't get such a message. Windows effectevely shuts down, monitor turns off but the computer still runs power. Ethernet onboard LED is off as well, but fan LED, and fans/PSU fan are still running. No idea what else might still be active. I found on internet about "Right click my computer - Properties- Hardware- Device Manager, Click View at the top and click show hidden devices, Double click NT Amp/Legacy support it should have a red cross on it , Enable it and your pc should now shut down properly" http://www.softwaretipsandtricks.com/forum...t-turn-off.html But I do not have anything such as NT AMP. Update: I have tried hibernate. It does the same thing it does when you shut it down in bios by pressing F10 when you are in Q-Flash. It starts hibernating, it shuts down, (Fans, LED's, etc) but in 1-2 seconds it starts up by itself again

Snif snif, why did I totaly forgot about this when I decided to buy my system. Instead of 250$ for 1066FSB 2.4 I could'v had 1333FSB 2.66 for 200$. Oh well

I had the windows shut down image freeze all the time since I assembled this rig and I had both windows XP SP1, SP2 and SP2 x64. But I no longer have the freeze after I installed the video card drivers. However now, windows shuts down but the comuputer will not power off. In bios there is no autostart option.

I am running XP E6600 2Gb Corsair 800mhz XFX 8600 GTS Extreme Mobo: Gigabyte P35 DS3R When I shut down the fans, PSU, CPU Fan, Fan LEDs are still running, so the power just won't cut off. Before this, I had the "windows is shutting down" mesasge freeze as well on shutdown but it got away after I installed XFX video card drivers. Another thing that I am afraid is that this might actualy be hardware? I mean I went to q-flash, and I used the F10 for shutdown in bios. When I do that, it shuts itself down but in 1-2 seconds it starts all up by itself. Even tryed this: immidiately after it shuts down after I press F10 I shut down the PSU from the back button (from I to O), and amaizingly it STARTS UP for a very brief second then it shuts down. Is this PSU problem?

Just want to double check if it's normal that after formating a drive to be some used space. (Not C: drive with operating system). I have formated drive D which has 440GB and 82mb's is used by the system. I have selected "show hidden file" and unchecked hide protecting operating files, and when you select everything on the newly formated drive D it's 0 bytes (well everything there is it's only an empty Windows Volume Information) Also anybody with gigabyte mobo's which has enabled SATA AHCI (so working on SATA) get a message as follow just immidiately after booting Serial ATA AHCI BIOS Version [...] **This version supports only Hard Disk and CDROM Drives. Please wait. This will take a few seconds. ....... (Then I have to wait about 10 seconds and something along the lines appear) Sata01: Not detected Sata02: (some sort of ID for my HDD) Sata03: Not detected etc.

I moved this to hadware since I think it is a hardware problem

Yes, found the create bootable ISO. Can't belive it was just in front of me and I did not noticed it. Prooly because I somehow expected to create directly an ISO. I really hope with this will be a bootable cd. Thanks for opening my eyes

What I did I took my windows XP cd, copied it on my HDD, used nlite to load it, added the SATA drivers, and processed it. I have read that it should'v spit a .iso but I cannot find any .iso made by nlite. Hoever I can see that the copy from my HDD has increased in size with the ammount that nlite gives you before you start the process. Am I doing something rong? or now I just take the "upgraded" copy on my HDD and put it on a CD using nero - selecting MAKE DATA CD. EDIT: I maked a CD using MAKE DATA CD and it is not bootable. Help please. looked for cdimage.exe as the FAQ of nlite says but I can't find anything relevant on google

Set your SATA to PATA mode, install windows, extract the SATA drivers in windows, then switch SATA to AHCI? Would that boot? Or you would still get the blue screen error?

They are extracting themselfs. The link for the drivers: http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Products/Mother...?ProductID=2543 Click drivers. Edit: Ok it seems that the big 13m file is different and contains other stuff than the 2 small files for SATA. After extracting the small one I could get the necessary files. Any idea what the big file might be used for?

I have searched everywhere and I just can't find my solution. I have a gigabyte mobo, and I have the gigabyte SATA RAID drivers downloaded. They are as .exe How do I intergrate the gigabyte drivers using nlite?

All I have is the CPU, ram, video card and the HDD. I booted it with only 1 ram, it's the same. You can actualy hear once the windows is at "saving your setting" screen how the HDD is turning off and the keyboard lights flashes 2 time. I was reading over the internet problems with it being East Asian Language, and some other http://support.microsoft.com/?kbid=307274 or http://aumha.org/win5/a/shtdwnxp.htm. But they talk about stuff about update or get SP 1, while this is already SP 2 copy. I still haven't tried all those sugestions but for example I have install xp SP 1 (the copy I have on this computer) to see if it will be the same. Well surprise even with the old XP copy I currently have it's still freezes. I mean even the stand by button is greyed out. How am I supose to know what is wrong anyway? I mean I have no clue if it is the hardware, so I know what to RMA if it's something wrong with that, or something about software. Or hardware which does not like older software. I switched the HDD just for kicks, put this HDD into the new computer and it gave a blue screen, so it dosen't like it. And how do you format the partitions? Why is it only formating drive C where it installs your windows and all other parititions it's left as RAW.

No, both in safemode and normal it dosen't shut down. But it does not freeze for restart, those work ok. Also using the CD how exactely I can assign specific drive number (C,D,E)? By itself it set drive C for windows, drive D for my DVDROM and drive E for my second partition. But I want a drive C, drive E for second paritition and DVDROM drive F. Also I have no option to format the second parititon. And last time when I did that was about 3 years ago, I know I did it somehow but I forgot.

So I just finished building my system: E6600 Gigabyte P35 2Gb Corsair 500GB Seagate 8600 GTS And I just installed windows 64. When I shut it down tho it gets to the screen saying windows is shutting down and then just freezez. Everything. Also there is no standby option. Any ideas? And whats with that activation thing?

Oh but the WRT54G also uses 3rd party firmware. A friend of mine got it. And I'l never use linux

Ok, I will buy the WRT54 from lynksys. But which version and what is the difference between the 2? Will they use the same firmware? http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...mp;promoid=1021 WRT54G http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...mp;promoid=1021 WRT54GL

Phoned them and they were OK to change my motherboard to the http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...acture=Gigabyte As you guys said, only pro thing for the DDR3 is the tiny decrease in consumption, but you still get a lot more performance with DDR2. I mean I was ok spending 40$ more if they throwed 4 DIMM slots for DDR3 as well, that would'v made it so much more feasable, but since it's only 2, and most likely til DDR3 will outperform DDR2 at a equivalent low price as DDR2 has right now it will take at least few years. Only thing I hope is that Gigabyte did not passed out on the quality check on this one compared with the P35C version which has the DDR3

It's totally different system and hardware. I guess to image it has to have at least same HDD size and type?

oh, well actualy I was just looking for connectivity for my computers, meaning that all my computers will be connected to internet I never had a router so at the moment i'm totaly blank how you set it up but if I buy it I will do research. By the way those wireless routers, you can still use normal ethernet cables for connection right? Unless I will buy a laptop as well there is not point it wireless, it's teh yuk with so many lost pakets or high latency

Really, I feel I am asking so many questions but I have another one As I am getting my second computer I will need a router for them. Now, I want some sugestion about it. I also need to get a landline and I checked out vonage (i'm in canada) and you know that they also offer those type of routers where you plug the phones but also the computers. Should I get the: Motorola VT2442 which ends up at 45$ or Just get a cheap router such as: http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...ufacture=D-Link for 45$ Asking this because if it's better to get a normal router such as the one from the NCIX then I can just get their (vonage) free router thing only for the phones, etc. By better I mean performance wise, security, etc. Personaly I would think that the dedicated router such as the D-Link DI-604 would be better but I really want your opinion. Thanks, again

Comparing the new P35's mobos http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...acture=Gigabyte AND http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...acture=Gigabyte I mean what, the single and only difference between the 2 is that the 35C can also support DDR3 right? Please correct me if I am wrong, but isn't almost no difference since even if DDR3 has higher mhz at the moment it has higher latency? And isn't most likely the DDR2 (800mhz 4-4-4-12) will be excelent for at least several years? Not to mention that DDR3 will be much more expensive for at least 1-2 years, and "even" if you want to take out your DDR2 and put DDR3 (I read it's about what 5% performance boost?) there are only 2 DIMM slots, meaning that you won't be able to go over 2GB unless you pay about 2.5x more for a 2x2GB stick, which is also very rare. And by that time probabely the system will be just better off with 4GB of DDR2 (2 * 2x1GB sticks) So did I just wasted the money by buying the 35C variant? I was just browsing a bit mainly for the case and it just strike me. Should I try to phone and tell them I want just the 35 variant?

I used Norton Ghost to create a disk image of my drive C. My question is. can I use the same disk image the new SATA II HDD. My current HDD is IDE and drive C has about 10GB. the new SATA HDD I want to partition it in 20GB for drive C and the rest drive E.

Gf 4 Ti serries could not play Bf2 only because EA created it with 1.4 pixel shader and Ti serries only had 1.3. The card was perfectly capable to run the game performance wise, yet, you couldn't play Bf2, mainly because EA did not want to support Pixel shader 1.3 for Ti serries so EA - Nvidia contract sell more newer cards. Yet some fans made some adjustment to the game that you could play Bf 2, with totaly wired graphic glitches but still

My Xp 1600+ Ahtlon ran at 60c for about 2-3 years and I never had problems with it (no oc) so yea, I can say anything under 60c is ok Btw, it's HUGE! How heavy is it? 5kg? isn't it riping the mobo bolts lol