Messerschmitt

Ok one second, now i'm a little confused especialy since I don't understand quite a big part from the last posts. As Bigbrit said many mobos have 4 SATA and 2 IDE. The 4 Satas you can use them for HDD's primarely and from what I understood even CD/DVD ROM's units. I don't know how the performance change by chaning CD/DVD ROM's from IDE to SATA. So in theory you can have the CD/DVD ROM's on 1 IDE (2 drives) the SATA HDD's on SATA, and the old HDD's that were working on IDE inserted in the second IDE on the mobo right? By this setup you have the speed of the SATA for the SATA HDD's, and the speed of an ATA on the IDE HDD, is that correct? And by using that IDE HDD just as backup or storage, or watching movies on that one you won't notice any difference I supose. Are my statements correct? It dosen't mean that by having an IDE HDD on a IDE slot will slow down all the other SATA HDD's correct? Now if I understood what Andromeda said, you can make that IDE HDD as well to boost up it's speed for a bit more using that little thing right? What's it's name, how can you find it to buy it? No idea what is with the segments

So if I plan to keep it for about 3-4 years and then add a SLI for another 2-3 maybe 4 more years, should I invest for the 640mb memory one? Or in 4 years from now adding another 320mb will result in sufficient memory (640mb total) in the next 8 years

The 8800 GTS has 2 different memory settings. But I understood that memory makes very little importance of the poerformance of the card. So my question is, does it worth to spend an extra 150$ (400$ -> 550$) to get the 640mb variant or it's just a waste of money? I'l be using my card for gaming (when I have free time )

ye I found that if i start Burning Rom I can choose, I ususaly started Smart Start and nothing was there. but can Nero actualy tell you if the DVD is multisession or not? And if you do multisessions how much mb's it take to make the lead in and out between sessions? Can DVD Players play movie or music if it has more than 1 session?

Probably I will only use a CD-Rom and a DVD-RW Rom. I have the CD Rom's for a long time so why not use them instead of using the DVD Rom all the time and shorten it's life. So basicaly the best option would be to chose a power source having 4 SATA connectors in case I plan to have 2-3 HDD's and maybe in the future a SATA connected DVD-Rom (I heard these exist too right?). A bit confused here since I never seen HDD's or DVD/CD Rom's using something else than a molex connector for it's power.

Hey, I allways wondered how can I resume a DVD burn if I burned it using multisession. When I did select multisession I couldn't figure out how can I resume, it was like I finalized the disk. Can anyone give me the step?

Hey I just have another question regarding PSU. What is the SATA connectors for. Aren't the HDD's using SATA normal pheripheral connectors like the IDE HDD's?

Ok so in the end what is the difference between 1 12V rail which has let's say 45 A and 3 12V rail which has 15A each combined to 45A.

I guess then all the new power supply between 100-200$ available to buy have this option for distribution. As for the amperage on 12V I see a lot having a lot of Amps on 3.3 and 5V but comparing these 2 with the 12V not that much

I will not use SLI at the moment but i'm looking for it since I ususaly when I buy a system I keep it for around 5 years (as I did with this one from which I currently write). When I will need more power I can just buy a second GeForce and not throw away my first card which right now cost at least 400$. When I chose the mobo I looked at the PCI slots (I am using a SB card) proobably will look for a TV Tuner as well, so as many PCI the better. I looked at the Max ram capacity, and even if 4 GB is humangous who knows what the future will bring. A 8 GB capacity is allways nice. I did a mistake with the mobo I currently have thinking that I will never need more than 1 GB 5 years ago and guess what, I was terebly wrong. The Front Bus has also a 1333MHZ "for the future" as they said, even tho intel might never produce a CPU using 1333MHZ. And I allways want as many options I can on it. This goes for the I/O My plans is to buy a very good system now around 1500$ and have the option that in 3-4 years to be able to boost it a little again for another 2-3 years. Now I realise anything can happen with the mobo and I will need to buy a new one, but well, this current mobo is a Sis735 which almost nobody heard about it, I have no idea who produced it (I wasn't that smart back then) and yet it goes well for over 5 years. Oh yea and it had 2 power surges, capacitors where destroyed but I just used a soldering hammer, put back in new capacitors and away I go. And from what research I did I guess if the mobo only has a northbridge then the functions from the southbridge are implemented into the same northbridge. If you do recommend new mobo please tell me why you think it's better than the one I chosed. Or if you recommend one of the 2 I chose please tell me why is that over the other one. System I am planning to have is: E6600 2.4GHZ Intel Core 2 Duo, 4 GB Ram, 667MHZ DDR2, 1 or 2 SATA HDD, 1 IDE HDD, 3 ROM's (CD-RW, CD, DVD-RW) Gf 8800 GTS 320mb (no idea if 640 makes any real difference for the +150$)

Aha, now I understand the amperage thing. Very good stuff. But as I am looking at let's say this:http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1648606&Sku=R456-1000 they have there 2x 12 V amperage. Does that simply add up? 18A + 16A in this case? And what about the minus -12V? Thanks

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/Sea...=2&NoMapp=0 vs http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/Sea...=2&NoMapp=0 Which of the 2 is better and why? Me personnaly would go towords the MSI. I know they are a good company so the 12 months warranty vs the 36 shouldn't be a big factor. It has more PCI slots and more I/O ports. I don't know anything about the chipset tho. Is it better to have only 1 Northbridge, or 2 a South and a North. What is the difference? And what case can you get with it? I mean I am looking at the back pannel connectors and no case matches it. This kinda goes for MSI as you can't really see the Asus. But I have seen many new motherboards having different style of back pannel connectors while all the cases still have the standard holes in the back. Would this case be good? And can I use the firewire port if the case is good? http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/Sea...u=TC3J-4032%20P

How do you calculate how much W'ts you need anyway for a system? Would 450W be enough for 3 HDD's, 3 DVD/CD-ROM's, a Gf 8800 serries, and a 2.4GHZ Dual/X2 processor intel/amd with 4 GB ram?

That is very sweet indeed. Even tho I don't like samsung with their refurbished exchange policy even if you have a faulty monitor upon arrival

Excelent thanks

Nice, I thought because they use 2 different technologies it might not be compatable to use both. And if the mobo supports UDMA 100 and 133, do I have to go into bios and set it to 133? I also think that the HDD should be able to support that otherwise it might not be better than an ATA-100 right? Also asking this because I see quite some motherboards which now have UDMA for IDE and not ATA.

Hey again, I have a quick question. Can I have 2 HDD's which are connected thru IDE and 1 HDD connected thru SATA-300? I'm wondering if I can connect my hold HDD's to a new motherboard and get an extra HDD

I have a samsung but I no longer like them simply because of their return policy. If something is defect, no matter what, and how soon after buy, they will only send you a refurbished one. So double check with your store what is their personal warranty.

It is the CMOS Battery. I didn't had a chance to buy a new battery so I just put back the old one. It booted, but it gave me again the same errors and this time I actualy took time to read them. "CMOS Battery Low, CMOS Frequncy Problem". So yea, I need to get a new battery. I needed to restart it 3 times to make windows to start loading. One last question. If I leave the computer running, is it true that the battery will recharge for a small ammount? In the end, thanks to you all who took the time and give me advices and pointers. Luckly my system components are still beating.

I removed the CMOS battery and will try to get a new one. I don't want to just re-plug the old one because it's a b***h to take it off, risking to actualy break the plastic teeth's which hold it. But my real dilema is, can a simple little battery screw up your hole computer by not even booting the BIOS? I would expect that every time the date on your computer and some other items such as frequncy to allways reset, but not no starting at all.

Actualy I did run into a problem. While I was listening to winamp and posting here yesterday night, it just froze, with the sound repeating the last 0.5 second (you know how it ususaly happens in games). Interesting thing is that I pushed the start button, and I didn't kept it for 5 seconds to shut down immidiately, I let it go afterwards, and computer came back to life, but started to close applications and then shut down the windows as it would do if you go to start - shutdown. Afterwards agian, I cannot make it start. Right now i'm writing from work. It just starts, but the monitor stays blank, I can only see fans are working and HDD LED just stays on. It won't even boot into bios. It's like the monitor isn't even pluged (but I did tried again, and when disconnecting the monitor it says no signal, after connecting it again, monitor is functioning). Once I get home today I will disesemble it, clean it all and re-assemble again. Also will check for capacitors and other to make sure they aren't blown up.

What I have is XP Athlon 1600+, Sis735 motherboard (most likely), 256 x 2 RAM 266mhz (slight chance it might be 133mhz), Gf 4 Ti 4400, SB Live, 350 Powersupply, 80 GB and 120 GB Western Digital Caviar. A 12x CD-RW Rom LG, and 16x DVD-RW Rom Pioneer (single newest piece \o/, bought it summer 2006). My case is an ATEC, with plenty of room inside (that motherboard is frikin big for normal cases). Got 2 Fans in the case, CPU usualy stays at 46 degree's. Very true it is very dusty inside, but considering I started the computer after around 9 hours, heat shouldn't be a problem. I have no problems what so ever during prolongue normal operations.

Hello. Today I had a bad experience with my faithfull but yet 5+ year old computer When I turned it on, nothing came on the screen. The fan was just working. I shut it off. Second, nothing came on the screen again but this time the HDD led was flikering . I shut it off. I started disconnect my LCD digital cable from the computer while turned off and I seen no signal came up, once I hook it up back, it went to standby again, so video card seemed to be working. I turned the computer again, it booted, but the CMOS and frequency of RAM and CPU were messed. Instead of 133/133 it was 100/100. The internal clock and date was also messed up showing year 2001. Saved and exit, but it didn't rebot, just went ahead and booted OS and afterwords screen remain blank. I shut it off. Turned the computer again, did the same changes in BIOS for CMOS and frequncy (first time seems it didn't save), this time it reboots again to take effect of change, and boots up normaly. Anyone has any idea what was/is going to be the problem? Can it be ram? Don't have a second computer so if it fails i'm pretty much by myself with no other pieces to swap and try.

First picture looks like a 2007 graphic game. In-game graphic looks like Red Alert 2

Anyone remembers Gender Wars? It's the same era of Doom, Tyrian, Deadline (anyone remember that too? you had 8 soldiers and you had to take down the terrorists), Nemesis II: Return of Dragon force