DL.

You can put it in a .reg-file and import it from cmdlines.txt. Read this about .reg-files and this about cmdlines.txt. A value of 0 may be too fast, try something like 2-5 or even 5-10. It isn’t slow, just feels slightly better in my and many others' opinion. The time we are talking about doesn't seem like much (a few ms=milliseconds), but it's somewhat noticeable. The default setting for it is 250. I don't use the tweaks in nLite (have my own tweak file), but I'm pretty sure that particular tweak is in there.

Yeah there is, read this.

It's because there are parts in that file that disables "Security center" and other related stuff. Nothing to worry about!

After a large number of tweak threads and revisions there shouldn't be any need for fixes when it comes to XP-tweaks (well, maybe for new versions of IE/WMP or other closely related Windows progs). For Vista there may be some use for this, at least until most tweaks has been found and thoroughly tested.

I didn't mean it would be easy to have internationalization, but using separate files in those cases only would be easier than doing a full switch. There aren't exactly that many (if any at all!) new and previously unknown tweaks added, so building a personal tweak file and sticking to it will work without using any additional program. It's good to have a complete collection though, in case oneself or someone else need a specific tweak.

@Camarade_Tux, about the .reg vs .inf dilemma: In all honesty, can you actually say there are plenty of times when internationalization is needed? There are a few, but not enough to validate a full switch in my opinion. In those (rare) cases when it's needed it can easily be used. Some advantages of .reg compared to .inf: -Easier to read and less additional useless numbers. -More of a standard (registry exports and most tweaks found on the web are in that format). @gugutz: Thanks for recognizing my small contributions. Doing a similar thing for Vista would be nice, but in a new thread to separate it from this one for XP (but many tweaks are valid for 2k/2k3 too). Since no one else has responded to these guys, it's about time I do: @rickytheanuj: It's in the file, or you can easily find it by searching the web. @Brando569: There is a program like that, check out RegTweakage.NET. Picking out tweaks from a single file is not very time consuming when compared to finding out most of those yourself one by one (before there were large tweak collections like this one).

I can't understand why so many people really love StarCraft, I never liked it in the old days and I didn't like it when I tried it last week. WarCraft 2 on the other hand is an excellent game from Blizzard, but I don't like WC 3. I might try this new game when a demo is released, even though it looks kind of too futuristic for my taste.

Combine the info in this table with some of the charts here. You may also want to read section 1-A here.

Check this thread in the Driverpacks.net forum.

Are you comparing two of your own computers or are you trying to figure out which one to buy? If you have both at hand, then you can simply just run 3DMark (preferably 2001) and compare the results.

You can 7-zip it the same way as you can with 2003, search for "office 2003 7-zip" or similar.

You'll have to find that out yourself, it's all about personal preferences. Think about which settings you normally change on each install. Read every tweak and try to figure out what you might like, search for the ones you need more info on. If you cannot find anything, then you're very welcome to ask us all by posting here.

Have you tried searching for it? It may be starting automatically at boot or when starting some other program. Check: Run -> msconfig -> Autostart tab

In English I call it “USB flash drive”. In Swedish it’s always just a direct translation of “USB memory”, which is what it’s called in computer magazines and among techies. Many people here call it (in Swedish) “USB memory stick”, “memory stick”, “USB stick” or simply “the stick” (on the subject of portable data storage, “put it on the stick”). In rare cases it’s called “USB memory card”, because it’s put in the same category as other memory cards in online stores.

Yeah, I know. I was giving an example of what may happen and just mentioned the mouse I was using at the time, maybe should've left that part out.

Increasing the USB frequency can sometimes cause BSOD:s. I had lots of BSOD:s after changing it to 250 or 500 Hz (with a MX500) a few years ago, changed it back and all problems were gone.

This should've been posted in the "Tips 'n' Tweaks" section. All of your tweaks have probably already been mentioned in that forum section, take a look at it and you might find something interesting. I see in your files that you have added descriptions for every tweak, it works great and helps in troubleshooting with a small number of tweaks like you have. But it would be a pain to do if you had thousands of lines of tweaks.

Ok, I would want to do that too, but where I live we don't have that possibility so I'm not used to it. I will probably also be buying a new mouse later this year, but it won't be the MX518 solely because of the glossy finish.

Which case to use depends very much on which radiator you choose, but a larger case is better in many ways. You should not use too much noise dampening material; the case in itself will help dissipate some heat. Soft fastenings for fans, drives and the PSU can be useful. The PSU is often one of the loudest parts, so replacing it may be necessary. Your HDD(s) needs some active cooling and vibration dampening: http://www.lian-li.com/product/product06.p...x=12&type=b or any of these with a fan in front of them: http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/view.a...74&code=019 http://www.mcubed-tech.com/deutsch/produkte.htm Even if you use water cooling you should still have some large (=120 mm or more) and very silent high quality fans to get some airflow through the case, to cool the other components (the mainboard and any other expansion card). There is no need to have any additional cooling for CD/DVD/floppy-drives, just leave some space (one 5¼ inch bay) between them if you have more than one.

The MX518 has a glossy finish which gets dirty and uncomfortable quickly, but the G5 doesn't. If you like the shape of the MS mice, you should maybe try the Habu. You probably won't notice much difference in performance with any of those mice, since they all are considered gaming/high-end models. Why not try shopping online?

@nuhi regarding merddyin's suggestion: The pagefile setting is a great idea, user selectable as either a fixed size or depending on RAM (like 1.5xRAM). Then some of us would need one script less to add and others may no longer have to do it manually after the installation. Adding registry keys on the other hand is simple enough already and should be a low-priority task. Regarding dirtwarrior's second suggestion: Isn't it somewhat driver dependant and has to be set after the driver has been installed? Setting his first one automatically is simple, as r3incarnat0r has already shown. Using the standard exe-icon looks better than using the script icon.

Picking out all the different parts is probably better in terms of price and performance, but it's not that easy if you've never worked with water-cooling before. If you buy a complete kit, be careful when/if upgrading it with another pump to avoid a hazardous leakage. The pump in itself is always quite leak proof; the other components and hose connections might be weaker points. I bought a WaterChill kit a few years ago, but the pump was too loud, so I replaced it with a more silent (but also more powerful) one. That was a big mistake, because a few weeks later the chipset block got a leak which destroyed most of the internal components: I had to replace the mainboard, graphics card, audio card, NIC and PSU. The WaterChill kits are very user-friendly and easy to install/use and the new pumps with a built-in reservoir seems nice, but noise may or may not be an issue (was for me with the older kit/pump). You'll need quite a large case to fit the radiators. The WaterChill HDD cooler for a 5¼ inch bay is probably more efficient than the one for 3½ inch, since it's in direct contact with the sides of the HDD instead of near the bottom of it (look under your drive and you'll see what I mean). From the looks of it you can combine both if you feel like it.

@SpyCatcher: Check out the stickied topics at the top of the list. @Mauri: Don't be lazy, search! There is no release date yet, but it most likely will come.

I agree with the others, a standard LAN-connection is better in most cases. But if you really want to use USB for some reason (?) then a "USB transfer cable" (or similar, the name may also contain any of the words: Data/Link/File) is what you need. You should be able to pick one up at your local store or online.

There are progs like that, but you need a special cable too (the prog is included when buying the cable).