DL.

Have you tried opening it in Wordpad or for example Notepad2? Which Office version are you using now and which one were you using when you wrote it? Try opening it on another computer. As I see it there are two possible causes: -File created in a way that is not compatible with your current software. -The CD has gotten old and/or damaged (you should always use branded high quality media when recording) and cannot be read correctly. There are solutions for both cases that may work, but it's not 100% certain. If you want to I can PM you my email, so you can send me the file and I'll try opening it using a few different progs.

It's against the forum rules to post such links.

Yes indeed, it sure will.

The Celeron is running on a 100 MHz FSB, while the P3 is at 133 MHz. With the same amount of cache the P3 would be faster, despite the Celeron's higher clock. The overclocking possibility depends on the mainboard, make sure the BIOS is updated (sometimes newer versions unlock more options). By telling us the board name/brand you make it easier to help you. Overclocking the P3 won't do much unless you can set fixed AGP/PCI clocks, you can only overclock the FSB a few MHz or the AGP/PCI clocks get too high. Since the P3 has a 7.5x multiplier you will only get 1050 MHz on a 140 MHz FSB, which won't make any noticeable difference. You could try setting the FSB to 133 MHz (with the Celeron) to keep the AGP/PCI clocks at reasonable levels. But be careful, setting it incorrectly might result in data corruption if you're unlucky. The Celeron has an 11x multiplier which will give you 1.46 GHz on a 133 MHz bus (if the CPU can handle it).

OPK=OEM Preinstallation Kit It’s a set of tools to help OEM:s and system builders deploy/preinstall Windows on multiple computers. The way I see it, you already have most of the functionality by using nLite/basic unattended stuff as mentioned in the MSFN Unattended Guide and maybe also using BartPE. There is an old thread on the subject here. Did you search?

Here is the link. It's not against the rules to post this link, it's not illegal or anything like that. Some virus scanners actually calls it a "hacking tool", but it's not harmful, it's just a simple tool to do something that can be done using a hex editor. @Lneto: Always keep your software updated, unless one specific patch or version is causing problems. You can use the tool to patch TCP/IP in case an update does replace it.

Writing in bold and very large won't help you in any way, just annoy others! You should read more on the subject (registry). Try searching (google or whatever) for "registry basics" or similar! When you know the basics you'll know what to do... Also check the unattended guide (link on this site, look up), the part about the registry.

@crahak: I was just adding a few more alternatives and not necessarily stating direct suggestions, I must've missed your first post (or maybe read it too fast?) in this thread where you were talking about redundancy. As you say, RAID isn't exactly "backup" but rather quite an easy and relatively cheap way of improving redundancy and data security without requiring extensive management. I would also recommend 500 GB drives over 400:s in most cases, because of the things you mentioned. But 400 GB drives can be an alternative if the price is extremely important at the moment and the storage needs aren't that huge. Neither Blu-Ray nor HD-DVD is an option yet, but they probably will be when the prices come down and availability is no longer a problem. In the future using any of those new optical storage methods may be easier, faster and cheaper than tape drives for smaller backups (tape drives may still rule for larger ones). As RAID is not really a backup, then making a backup of the most important data (very unique or something you absolutely wouldn't want to loose) stored on it might be good practice. However reusing an old drive might not be the best idea since the probability of it failing is most likely higher than that of a brand new drive; of course it depends on the age and previous usage of the old drive. As bonestonne said it's not very easy to make backups of 2 TB of data today, you'll have to use hard drives or very expensive tape drives for that.

Putting 4x500 GB drives together just makes up 2TB of storage but no backup or redundancy whatsoever. To obtain some redundancy you'll need a RAID array. A RAID 10 (sometimes called 1+0) array will give you more redundancy, performance and be able to sustain multiple simultaneous drive failures as opposed to RAID 5. It's more expensive as you'll need 8x500 GB drives to get 2TB. RAID 5 on the other hand will need a more expensive controller card for higher performance but fewer drives. RAID 10 is not as demanding on the controller card as RAID 5, it's also a bit easier to setup and rebuild or expand. RAID 10: 8x500 GB + cheap controller card RAID 5: 5x500 GB + expensive controller card Using 400 GB drives (10x400 instead of 8x500) will make it a bit cheaper (400 is cheaper per/GB than 500). 750 GB and 1 TB drives are too expensive per/GB right now so they are not an option. Do you really need 2 TB of space (it's quite a lot)? You could save very much by going with 1.6 TB (8x400 GB) or 1.5 TB (6x500 GB) I would get a Blu-Ray or HD-DVD drive when they arrive or keep one extra HDD to be able to backup the really really important data in case something happens to the RAID array and/or the comp (burglary, accident or whatever). When I buy a new comp I'll definitely go for a RAID 10 array combined with an additional drive or NAS as an extra safety measure.

Make sure you get a few more 4-in-3 device modules (put 2-3 hard drives in each). You'll need a strong high quality PSU too (others will probably be able to help you select one).

You'll need quite a large case for that many drives, to make sure they are properly cooled. Any version of the Cooler Master Stacker (add some more 4-in-3 device modules) will probably do just fine. Seagate hard drives are considered quite reliable these days.

@Black Wolf: It doesn't take very long time to get the certifications if you're really into it, it's like the tests in school... I haven't got any certs, but that's because I haven't tried getting any. @ethanmcf: Add some large (120 mm or more) fan to improve the cooling even more, purely fanless is only good for lower noise level.

Did you really acquired all these certificates?If yes...Well Done man My mother has all of these i think (at least the first two). She's got a total of 14 certificates including both Novell and MS.

@puntoMX: I don't know what it's called (somewhere at the bottom of the pipe by the glas, don't know exactly where it is), but the leak happened because the block couldn't handle the more powerful (higher pressure) pump. @ethanmcf: A good air cooling will cool your CPU very well even when overclocked. Just don't expect any miracles from either air- or watercooling, for that you’ll need phase-change, dryice or LN2. You don't have to use watercooling for all components, using it only for the hottest ones (GPU and/or CPU) will save you some cash and make it a bit easier to assemble. SATA is recommended in most cases since IDE is getting obsolete and the SATA cables are thinner. Edit: I saw this link on the subject and thought it would be appropriate to post it.

@Black Wolf: Jan who? To keep your comp secure you have to keep it updated. Slowdowns can be fixed by using for example the TCPIP-patch and doing normal maintenance like defragmenting. Your router has got some basic firewall protection (NAT), which is enough in most cases. You can use one of the recommended software firewalls to get both in- and outgoing protection. NOD32 is considered one of the best antivirus progs today, so yes it's good enough. Many of the more skilled people don't use any antivirus because they don't need it. The best protection against malware, virus and similar is knowledge and skills.

In my case there was no problem with the hose-clips, just a weakness where the black and see-through parts on the chipset-block meet. Depending on the loudness of the pump you may/will hear if it stops working when you're using the comp.

As others have said before, watercooling for an entire system is a bit more expensive than 150£/200$. I tried watercooling once, but I'm not sure if I'll do it again. I had to replace almost everything (Mainboard, Graphics card, Audio card, NIC, PSU) due to a tiny leak in the chipset-block, only because I had an Asetek Waterchill and replaced the pump with a more powerful and silent one (it did work very well for a few days though). The experience was quite expensive for me to say the least (watercooling kit+extra pump+parts replacement). The cooling performance was a bit better, but nothing extreme. I'm not saying you should not get watercooling, but think about it thoroughly before making the decision. If you decide to buy it then make sure to get high quality components and test it for a few days to discover any leaks.

On my lousy 8/0.8 Mbit. I had a very nice 100/100 Fibre-LAN connection before (not very uncommon in Sweden), but I unfortunately had to move to another apartment. I got a maximum of around 90-something Mbit/s in both directions with that one. The price of that connection was about 50$/month, my current 8/0.8 costs the same.

Simple, the ones most people are recommending!It also depends on your needs, skill level and preferences. If you're cleaning many other peoples PC:s, you probably need to have most of the progs mentioned. Some basic tips (also pass them on to friends/family/co-workers/anyone): -Don't use IE as your primary browser. -Never accept or run anything you don't know and fully trust (in dialog boxes, software, single exe-files). -Try to stay out of warez and porn sites. -Regularly run Spybot S&D (make sure to update it). -Keep your OS and apps fully updated with all the latest hotfixes/patches. -Use some sort of firewall, a router is preferred. -You can manage without an Antivirus program, just be careful and maybe use some free online scanner every now and then. -Use email with built in virus scanner. Even if doing all these things you may still get some unwanted malware/virus/similar, but it won't be very often and then by using a few of the tools recommended you'll get rid of 'em very quickly.

@[deXter]: That script is probably very useful, but most likely a bit more than the topic starter needs (basic volume control using the keyboard?). How often do you actually have to fine tune both the master and the wave volume, every other minute? At the rare moment when you really have to do both at the same time you could probably just change them using the mixer, instead of having to keep yet another program running in the background. Using just the built-in HID service will spare some configuring and extra files to manage, but that's your own choice to make.

I've owned (and still do) a few Leadtek cards, never had a problem with any of them. They are usually reasonably priced and just as good as any other top name brand. I prefer nVidia to ATI because of better drivers and quite easy BIOS flashing/modding. You'll probably be very happy with that card, go for it if it feels right for you (price range, performance level)!

Just make sure you have the HID service on auto and that it's actually starting, and then it should work just fine (disable and/or remove Girder). I use the multimedia keys on my Logitech Elite SE keyboard without any additional drivers or progs installed, just the HID service and Windows own drivers. There was a bug in an earlier version of nLite (I don't know if it's fixed in the later ones) which caused the removal of an essential component (hidserv.dll) when removing Terminal Services, preventing the HID service from starting.

I agree, kind of odd that the 2nd post in the thread came almost six months after the first one.Maybe it has been ignored because there are other threads on the same topic every now and then? Mostly I'm using the latest version of Firefox and occasionally IE, haven't quite gotten into tweaking Opera yet (I don't use it on a daily basis until I've tweaked it) but I've tried and liked it.

I could be wrong on this, but wasn't the possibility of saving some files (wpa.dbl and ?) to avoid reactivation disabled in SP2? I'm using a valid and legal corporate edition (where I worked we, the tech guys, got our own copies as part of the volume licensing) so I don't have to bother with activation. I'm not sure if I will get Vista the same way, might get it from TechNet instead (which will require activation). Is there any similar method available for Vista (keep WGA but skip reactivation after doing it once)?

Not enough power for everything, try connecting them all in different ways (use all the cables from the PSU and try to balance the load on each). What's the model/make of the PSU?