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jaclaz

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Everything posted by jaclaz

  1. jaclaz
    No, I am not putting words in anyone's mouth. I asked (I believe politely/amicably) for a reason for this change of mind as it seemed unrelated to a cited event that happened more than one year ago. Then, since someone started nitpicking, accusing me of (non existing) provocations/accusations, I tried (vainly) to explain how that was how I understood (or misunderstood) your post. Now you accuse me of putting words in other people's mouths. Rest assured it is not the case. Still, I am both a comedian and and a clairvoyant, so if I actually wanted to put words in someone else's mouth, I would have been allowed to do that and also aspire to some success with it. Anyway, I see that in this new MSFN it is not possible anymore to have a normal, plain, conversation, so I'll declare this thread an SEP and move somewhere else. jaclaz
  2. jaclaz
    No it is not a provocation, nor an accusation, nor anything else, I simply listed the main things forbidden by MSFN Rules, and couldn't see which one of them has even a feeble connection to the possible reason why Astroskipper changed his mind. The political/religious debate (Rule #2.b) is prohibited, but there is an exception carved out explicitly for technology topics, and a simple statement, like the one Astroskipper just posted, is anyway more than enough, there is nothing to debate about it. What perplexed me in the original announcement was the apparent non sequitur, as I read it, essentially: "The national authority of my country issued a warning in March 2022, I didn't believe it for some 15 months, today I changed my mind." So I asked if there was some relevant news that triggered this re-evaluation. jaclaz
  3. jaclaz
    Re-checking, the link I posted: https://www.atxpowersupplies.com/Dell-P10-connector-adapter.php and other pictures of the specific for Dell adapter: https://www.ebay.com/itm/235000267788 seem to have ALL the same colour and thus be ALL 3.3V (besides some re-mapping of the 20 pin connector), on the same page: https://www.atxpowersupplies.com/Dell-P10-connector-adapter.php there is a warning/foot note that this is NOT the "standard" 6 pin AUX connector (which is what you have since definitely the one in your photos has orange-orange-red). IF the original one you have has three wires white-blue those should be all at the same voltage (3.3V) and it would be compatible with this pinout info (which is NOT the "standard" aux one): https://old.pinouts.ru/Power/dell_atxaux_pinout.shtml So DO NOT use the adapter you have "as is", you need to either re-map it or procure yourself a "proper" one, jaclaz
  4. jaclaz
    No intention to speak for others, I was clearly expressing my personal opinion (I don't think ...). Anyway, I cannot understand which of our Forum Rules may prevent you from explaining what made you change your mind (if you actually want to share it, of course), warez?, political or religious debate?, racism, pornography, threats, profanity, or excessive vulgarity?, flaming other members? No problem however, I can cope with this question remaining unanswered. jaclaz
  5. jaclaz
    Sure, you are perfectly free to change your mind, but I don't think anyone is interested in knowing that you changed your mind, whilst maybe someone may be interested in the reasons why. The German warning is some 15 months ago, roughly at the same time the US FCC issues a similar one: https://www.fcc.gov/supplychain/coveredlist (the US banned Kaspersky use in government computers much earlier, 2017 if I recall correctly). So, unless you overlooked those signals, what made you change your mind now? jaclaz
  6. jaclaz
    I see, those are not the (more common) two rows Molex type connectors, they are the linear 6 pin ones that some (old) ATX power supplies had., these ones: https://allpinouts.org/pinouts/connectors/power_supply/atx-aux-power/ https://pinoutguide.com/Power/atxaux_pinout.shtml https://www.informit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=31105&seqNum=4 The colour coding of the adapter seems right, black for 0/COM, Orange for 3.3V and Red for 5V. The notch(es) on both the original and the adapter seem "wrong" compared to the reference above, but yes, they can normally be removed with a cutter. The colour coding of the (original) connector seems (even if different) coherent, black for 0/COM, Blue for 3.3V and white/blue for 5 V, but it would be nice to find a reference DELL pinout to make sure. Anyway this adapter is mapped similar to yours and it is explicitly mentioned as being compatible with Dimension 4100: https://www.atxpowersupplies.com/Dell-P10-connector-adapter.php what is "strange is that it is called "P10" whilst your original one is marked "P7" (but with DELL anything non-standard or confusing is to be considered "normal"). It is likely given the blue and white/blue cables (but remember it is a DELL) that your particular machine has an auxiliary connector which is compatible, some (earlier?) models had only 3.3V on that connector. Also I believe you need to check also the actual 20 Pin connector, some DELL's had something different in them, see: https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=59959 jaclaz
  7. jaclaz
    Generally speaking, connectors like those can be re-mapped, using two thin steel nails or a couple of small "spectacles" screwdrivers it is possible to bend a little the little wings that hold the single connector inside the plastic one, then the brass terminal can be re-inserted in the "right" position, as well with a small cutter it is possible to carve a little the plastic of the plugs to make them "round" and fit in a "square" receptacle. The real issue is to have a reliable source for the wiring/pinout. Maybe, it is this one: https://www.dell.com/community/XPS-Desktops/XPS-8940-ATX-6-pinout/td-p/7779556 the colour of wires on the original might help. jaclaz
  8. jaclaz
    Is anything on this thread really needed? I can only see senselessly whining and bickering. jaclaz
  9. jaclaz
    BUT it needs to run on 9x/Me? I am asking because - generally speaking - this kind of software needs lots of memory/RAM, otherwise it will often swap to hard disk, slowing down each and every operation, and the typical machine running 9x/Me will have some memory limits and relatively slow hard disk(s). jaclaz
  10. jaclaz
    So, what you really need is a way to boot the PE at a time when the normal "system" disk is connected. Essentially you are saying that when you hot-connect the disk to the PE, it cannot see it, it may be a limitation of the WinPE (of all WinPE's or just your particular build) or it may be something connected to one of your BIOS/UEFI settings. Usually there are settings in BIOS (or UEFI) that allow booting from an external disk (USB) with the internal disk(s) normally connected. Which motherboard is it? Are you booting BIOS (or CSM) or UEFI? It would be really strange that you don't have such an option, in case there really isn't one there is a possible workaround adding an entry for a bootloader to your existing BCD, but depending on your PC booting BIOS or UEFI and other factors it may be complex. Before anything else, have you tried re-scanning with diskpart or devcon [1] after having connected the disk? See here: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/insider/forum/all/windows-10-does-not-detect-a-hotswap-hard-drive/4bab657c-8c62-4092-99e1-ef7c83466cc0?page=1 jaclaz [1] diskpart is surely in your WinPE, devcon may or may not be there
  11. jaclaz
    Unfortunately you cannot create Amperes without using Watts, if we go for: 30A@3.3V 30A@5V 40A@12V those imply 30*3.3+30*5+40*12=99+150+480=729 Watts, so a 750 W would be more suitable, but newer 750W ones generally speaking don't have as well more juice on the 3.3V and 5V than the mentioned 20-25A, so if the requirements are confirmed, OP has no other option than finding an used PSU , it seems like the extra Wattage on recent PSU's goes all on the 12 V rail. See also here: https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?t=34076 jaclaz
  12. jaclaz
    The 98lite and the other projects on litepc.com are AFAIK not much more than a hobby project, the Author is a biologist/ecologist consultant with an academic background, I don't think he is getting much from the sales: https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/business/1999/05/29/researcher-cuts-the-link-to-explorer/ec3e78d4-3078-4734-b962-9bc17d4be3c4/ https://brooks.eco/profile jaclaz
  13. jaclaz
    I see, then, I don't think that any of the mentioned tools may be useful. You need/want something more like an integrate/slipstream tool. Try looking around (on msfn) for topics related to msbatch.inf and/or infinst.exe and for "unattended installs", I cannot remember a tool for doing that, only some (complex) manual methods, though. There is a (relatively) new kid on the block, however (that may or may not be useful to your goal): https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?t=69068 https://github.com/rishooty/Q9xS jaclaz
  14. jaclaz
    A current 600 or 650W PSU should have *around" (and roughly): 20-25A @3.3V 20-25A @5V 40-50A@12V older PSU's (current at the time of that motherboard) were - if I recall correctly - a little beefier on the 3.3V and 5V lines and a little feebler on the 12V one. jaclaz
  15. jaclaz
    Without making an exact calculation (but you can find several different PSU calculators online), that should be something that could run off a 450 or maybe 500 W PSU, here is an old test made with a 460 W PSU, JFYI: https://www.phoronix.com/review/245/6 Personally I would look for something in the 600 to 650 W range, power supplies tend to work better if they are a bit oversized. That Chieftec model you mention appears to be a rather expensive PSU (used). Again personally I wouldn't go for an used PSU, in my (little) experience PSU tend to fail for no apparent reason[1] and I never saw a real difference in their life correlated to their cost (and supposed quality/brand name), so, while a "no-name" one might be risky, many cheap, known brands would do. jaclaz [1] I suspect it all boils down to hours powered on + number of switch on/off + years of age, the only thing you can (often, not always) check on a used PSU is the manufacture date, but you have no way to know if it was inside a machine working 24/7 for years or a machine powered once weekly for a couple hours to check e-mail.
  16. jaclaz
    There is 98lite (commercial): https://www.litepc.com/98lite.html https://msfn.org/board/topic/58883-98lite/ And Winimize (abandoned, something may be found via Wayback Machine) files and some info can be found here: http://reboot.pro/index.php?showforum=53 https://msfn.org/board/topic/59856-the-mindows-project/ http://reboot.pro/index.php?app=downloads&showfile=333 jaclaz
  17. jaclaz
    Sure you can. Once (with all due respect for those proposing it) set aside the idea of a "double install" of 98 and XP on a same (FAT32) partition which - I repeat - can be done, but is not particularly "smart" and prone to issues in everyday use, you may want to think at a separate partition install as: 1) hide the XP partition (it may even be not needed as DOS/Win9x won't touch a 0x07 ID (NTFS) partition) 2) create a new FAT32 one 3) make it active In the above situation, the disk appears to Windows 98 setup as a disk with a single partition, so you can 4) install Windows 98 normally The possible issues may come later, IF you want to have both partitions visible from one or the other booted OS (or from both) with drive lettering. If you (at every boot) hide the "other" partition, you won't have such issues, but you won't have any handy way to exchange files between the two OSes, and (you may believe me or not) having the drive letter C: assigned to two different partitions depending on which OS is booted is likely - before or later - to create confusion. As said before, there may (or there may be not) an issue with the FAT32 partition (if it is made "after" the XP/NTFS one) to be "too far" on the disk to be correctly booted in DOS. jaclaz
  18. jaclaz
    For no apparent reason, cupboard ninja cat attack video: jaclaz
  19. jaclaz
    There may be other reasons. I have been recommending Norton to anyone with a too fast machine for years, it does (did) miracles in slowing down to a crawl any machine, including high end ones. jaclaz
  20. jaclaz
    No prob, post a link to an available USB to serial adapter that works in DOS and Win9x, I am not aware of any. The virtual COM port driver is of course needed, otherwise you have not a serial port that the OS or programs can connect to. Cannot understand your reference to RJ45 connected repeaters? jaclaz
  21. jaclaz
    Sure you didn't say that, but I wanted to be sure you didn't mean or imply that. On the other hand, if on a different partition (as the OP asked for) there is no need to convert the XP one from NTFS to FAT32, the doubt is whether it needs to be moved making space for the new partition(s) at the beginning of the disk. jaclaz
  22. jaclaz
    You mean both XP and 9x on a same partition? Not recommended. https://tweaks.com/windows/37469/install-windows-98-after-ive-installed-xp/ If a separate partition, there is really not much to gain (and a lot to lose IMHO) on running the XP on FAT32. jaclaz
  23. jaclaz
    In theory yes, but it adds a layer of complication, that would be a solution if he had not a serial port on the computer (as it is the case for most if not all laptops), the built-in serial is surely more reliable (and more directly accessible by the OS) than a USB one with its "virtual" COM port, BUT the OS would need anyway drivers for the converter, and DOS/Win9x ones are - AFAIK - unobtanium, so it is not a possibility in practice. FTDI (the maker of the almost ubiquitous chips used in these adapters) does not provide them: https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Knowledgebase/index.html?aretheremsdosdriversavailable.htm though they mention the possibility that DOSBOX running in a supported OS (2000 as a minimum) may work, but then running in a DOSBOX is not the scope of the OP. It is entirely possible that some third party DOS USB Drivers+Virtual COM port exists, but I wouldn't be so sure, and specific devices such as this one: http://www.dansdata.com/usbser.htm are not manufactured since many years, still AFAIK. That WiFI232 modem is designed for older computers that do have a DB-25 serial port, though, to be fair, its page states in the compatibility list: https://biosrhythm.com/?page_id=1453 jaclaz
  24. jaclaz
    No, there is no such thing as a parallel to serial of viceversa (maybe they exist but they would be active converters). Parallel and Serial are completely different protocols. You need an adapter (passive) that simply connects the serial DB-9 connector you have on your PC to the DB-25 connector on the modem, this is a common item, example: https://www.startech.com/en-us/cables/at925fm but with that the modem will be "appended to the serial port, maybe you want additionally a serial extension cord (you want an extension cord, i.e. "Straight Through", not one of the more common "Null Modem" or "Cross Wired" ones) to allow the modem to rest on the desk. jaclaz
  25. jaclaz
    A LPT is a parallel port. A COM is a serial port. A Dell Dimansion 4100 should have both: https://ancientelectronics.wordpress.com/2016/10/14/dell-dimension-4100/ but the serial port is a 9 pin one, the wifi232 should have a 25 pin connector, so you would need an adapter or cable 9 pin female to 25 pin male. By convention the serial ports on PC have male connectors and parallel ones have female ones, did you attempt to connect the modem to the parallel port via a 25 pin gender changer? jaclaz
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