puntoMX

And all depends on the chipset... mickro71, could you give us some more info of your motherboards? (and other specs are welcome too) Also what programs are you going to use or using? Budget?

Get a manageable switch with webview. With that you can say what computer(s) can connect to what other computer(s) on the network. Also you can set throughput, always a nice plus. Never use a router behind another router, use access points for that. Some firewalls can’t be disabled 100% and DHCP server can mess up things too. Also you can build a server but it´s more expensive .

And all the good SATA 2 RAID cards are PCI64. If I was you I would by just a SATA 1 RAID card from highpoint or so, even better, by a new motherboard with RAID . What do you have now?

No it´s not, read the tech info and you will see. Tell us in what slot (PCI(64)/PCI-E) you are going to use the RAID card.

I would not take a board with a VIA chipset if I was you; Go with the ULi shipsets, they are in my eyes better. That video card is indeed a nice AGP card .

I use most of the time tinner, altrough it´s a bit agresive. Is it all over the place? Can you post a picture? Even a nOOb can do it .

Bump? Okay then, I didn´t buy that card but I can tell you that there are better ones for the same price. This is just like an onboard RAID in 0 or 1 mode. It´s just a software RAID and will not perform that great.

If the BIOS update doesn’t work you could look at the 939NF4G-SATA2 from ASRock as well. It has onboard video with pixel shader 3.0 and can share up to 128MB of RAM. Before onboard was horrible, now chipmakers have become smarter . Also this board has a PCI-E 16x slot so you can upgrade the onboard video later. What kind of AGP card do you have now? I can tell you if the onboard performs worse or better...

More information on that? Never saw it before in cheap motherboards. We do it with simple tools and we replaced a lot of them .

C’mon, it’s easy to replace and if the board still works then replace those caps. The are no expensive and you don’t have to be an expert to replace them. Just look at the marks (poles) on the caps so you don’t solder them wrong. It’s a slot 1 board, they are hard NEW to find these days .

Only thing I can say is that the X2 will performe well for it´s price and even better for its price in 64bits and virtual machines. Don´t get the NF4, it´s outdated; you could get a 550, 570 or 590. Don´t mix it with a harddrive from Maxtor.

You are picking some outdated parts. I would go for a 7300GT 256MB video card and an AMD AM2 processor with board. The 120GB drives have almost the same price as the 160 and 250GB drives so check that out, never could be bad to have some extra space these days. Need help with picking those components then just tell us. Also if you need it cheap, you could go for a Sempron as well.

Still it needs cooling dude . "Its a fanless system", so is my video card and motherboard, but I would NOT put it in a box without a fan. You could always try it and see how stable it will be. Let me know how things turn out in a few months .

Okay, 2k is a good price. Normaly the Sony laptops are overpriced and expensive in service. Did you take a look at BestBuy or other store then the SonyShop?

Well, it’s easy to test, just play around with the cable and see if it goes off and on... Or stays off... It common that cables break after some time. With Logitech it’s after 2.5 years or so with normal use (my experience, and not just with one). Ow, those mice have 5 year warranty…

So cash isn´t the problem there, I also like stores where I pay more then in other, better places . Why you post "Good Laptop?"? You already know what you are going to buy, missing the point here...

Voice recording? Just use your old card, 44.1kHz / 16bit and some software to filter, that´s all .

And if that doesn´t help, cut your cable on the bad place and connect the wires again. Most of the time the cable will brake at the part were the cable comes out of the mouse.

To bad it hasn´t USB ...

, They won´t hire me...

You need a ATI x1600(pro/XT) or a nVidia 6800 (AGP) or 7600GS (PCI-E) and up for it. And that´s not only for this game, most of the games that come out now requier it.

Not with Creative and many other brands .

@ rjisinspired, Most cards require 850MHz so your 500MHz on 5.1 will not pull it, just on stereo mode. Then there is the next thing: drivers for 98(SE)... forget about it I would say... Try to get a SB Live! soundcard and use 3th party drivers for it... Switch to XP and use your CPU 32bit would be a nice step although, I would see the nLite pages on this forum first .

The cooling fan of 12cm would be the same size . But I think 650 US$ (before you posted 700 US$) is a load of money, you can build a complete system with that including a 19" TFT screen. Okay, it will be like 24.4 cm x 24.4 cm an AMD AM2 Sempron 2800+ or so. If I was you I would build a "normal" system and make it a gateway/firewall too, okay it’s bigger but still you could make it unique . @ LLXX, I think he did forget about the powersupply and cooling .

I've heard nothing but horror stories and danger warnings about opening up CRTs. Supposedly there is some serious capacitance inside there and you can get zapped if you don't know what you are doing. And I would venture to guess that adjusting the guns is not easily done. Most of those screens have 45.000 volts on the tube so yes there is a possibility of shock if you touch the wrong parts. @ roger04, Don’t try to fix it your self, it’s not like replacing an air filter on a car. There could be a loose contact inside the monitor too. Like trickytwista stated; Better to get a new screen, maybe a TFT? Samsung would be a good brand to stay with, Viewsonic and some other brands have good screens too.