puntoMX

"once i get past the booting off SCSI, i can just stack the hard drives on the IDE doing just master/slave and they'd just appear as more drives no?" Yes, you are right about that. But that USB to IDE, naaa , forget about it, spending more money on that then a PATA ad-on card. There are also cards with VIA chipset that have one PATA port and 2 SATA ports, they are cheap, like 15 US$ and work well.

looks more like a Ghost 2003 problem. That version has problems with SATA, strangely Ghost 9 works fine. Use other software or get an updated version of Ghost 2003 if it’s out. EDIT: I never had that problem with ghost 2003, used it on machines from customers who bought the whole load from Norton (there choice ). Googled a bit and I see just a few people who have that problem with all types of chipsets so it’s not AMD related, just a problem with SATA.

Goed Idea not to run both OSes on one PC. A problem with Ghost 2003? That should be chipset related so you can continue posting it here. If that doesn´t solve your problem then you can Always post in Software as well . Never used Ghost 2003, I´m using Acronis TrueImage for that.

We were talking about future upgrades so why would it be flawed in your eyes? There you go, so you know were you talking about. Why sell the man an old outdated model of the P4 series? You started with your argument of upgrading S775. You know as well that upgrading is just a bad stated story of marketing. I don’t think so, S775 is going to stay but the chipset will not be good enough to upgrade in 1 year or so, or you have to buy bottom line CPUs again. @ E-66, It’s your choice but jcarle is pushing you with his sales talk here. I sell computers too but I never say that people will do best to buy the lowest model and then upgrade later. Upgrades are irrelevant and most of the time not interesting. With this the statement of jcarle breaks and in my humble opinion it would be better to go with AM2 and a Sempron. If you move a lot of work, run a lot of programs at the same time then you could take the X2 as an option, it would even fit in your budget. But remember that you only can go for an AMD when you don’t run win98 any more.

Just my 2 cents: - AMD Sempron64 AM2 CPU - AM2 motherboard with nVidia 6100/6150 chipset But that´s ONLY when you want a 32bit OS. It will not work well with Windows 98 because of the 16 bit code. For the S775 upgrade question: Look at it like this, when you upgrade your CPU, you will upgrade your motherboard and your RAM too like you are doing now. The motherboard jcarle advices runs only 1066MHz FSB and there for less suitable for future upgrades as the newer Core2Duos will have higher bus speeds then 1066MHz. Other thought are: If you continue running 16 bit apps then you have nothing on AMD, then you are stuck with iNTEL CPU´s. I would drop Windows 98 and go for the AMD Sempron64 AM2 with a motherboard from ASUS. Just make your pick…

It would be better if you first go and find your PSU... You would see that there is an option "Boot from SCSI" in your BIOS. The onboard SCSI controller is most likely seen by XP so you don’t need extra driver disks in combination with F6 when you install XP. So, that problem is solved. For just a few bucks you can buy SATA or PATA add-on cards. I won’t use the USB 1.1 ports for USB to IDE if I was you .

LLXX, you are right; for most apps you need the audio cable. Windows 95/98(se)/ME are using the DACs in CD players and there for you need the audio or SDIF cable to be connected. In 2000/XP/VISTA all is digital and there for the audio-data goes, like normal data, directly to the chipset, using the CPU most of the time to convert the audio-data signal to analog audio trough the DACs of the soundchip or just with raw CPU power.

I saw that in the USA and Canada it’s normal to pay for warranty in stores. S*x As* to me, you would wish you lived in Europe then . Any way, take a look at Viewsonic as well, has been one of the best together with Samsung the last year or so. I use BENQ screens and they are good too. I don’t know what NEC is making but it looks like an ACER to me, and those are known for less quality.

Let’s see what AMD and ATI brings in the near future when all-in-one chips are produced and new chipsets, as far as we can speak of "sets", with integrated video. Sure there will be 8/4, 12/5 or even 16/5 pipelined versions soon vs. the 4/3 they have now.

Could you post the error code it gives? It could help us to find some proper information about your problem.

Okay, I wasn’t 100% clear on that. I was talking about the serious users that know how to and the die-hard performance tweakers over here . "and I have never known anyone else who did." -- Now you know one, and look around on the forums, tons of people who do it (keep out of the nLite/vLite section (joking)).

I would keep the Celeron 2 CPU. When you OC it you won’t get much performance out of it not even when you swap it with a 0.1GHz lower clocked CPU with double the cache. I noticed in the time that I OCed some 600MHZ Celeron 2 CPUs to 1130MHz that the design of motherboard and CPU didn’t gave any, or lets say almost nothing, performance boost. This was on a BX chipset by the way, best ever made chipset for the PII/PIII (ASUS CUBX).

Looks like you never flashed a BIOS. It’s easy, make a bootable CD or floppy (DOS-mode) and follow the instructions on the ASRock site. Use the modded BIOS and there you go. No need to format your drive, not even to reset your BIOS, but yes, you have to set your BIOS again. OCing isn’t for every one .

This is why I gave an example of 2 motherboards with good onboard VGA and the option to use a PCI-E 16x slot. It will run Vistas Aero Glass fine although I wonder how much people use the Aero Glass feature when they know it will use more RAM and CPU performance as well. Even in Windows XP most people have disabled, if they know how, the theme service as well. If you want a better video card then a 6150, then don’t look at the 6200/6500 but you have to jump to a 7300GT/GS or better even go directly for a 7600GT and up, and then I’m talking indeed about the direct X 9c games.

VIA is the king in the retail market. I’m sure they sell PC-Chips motherboards in the UK, get it close to you, not from the USA because PC-Chips has a lot of RMAs or even DOAs.

The C7 will provide better performance then a PIII, consider it a PIV at 1GHz with some extra features. There are some brands that sell uATX board with the chip mounted to it. In general those are the less-good brands like PC-Chips, for example the V21G (V1.0C). EDIT: Why don’t you go for a Sempron64 754 or AM2 with a nVidia 6100 chipset?

The onboard nVidia 6100/6150 chipsets I use blow away any 5200, clear and simple. M2NPV-VM and M2NPV-MX are nice motherboards. In 128bit mode they have 2.1GB/s RAM throughput with 667MHz DDR2, almost 2.6GB/s with 800MHz DDR2. This is why they don’t perform that bad with games. NFSU2 will run fairly well at 1024*768 with almost all settings on high, F.E.A.R will only run at 640*480 medium setting but no one will be surprised about that .

Try this BIOS, it’s a modded BIOS that let you set better the RAM timings. Go to this forum and I’m sure you will find some interesting information on overclocking that CPU on your mobo. If the stepping of the CPU isn’t that old you should hit 2.5/2.8GHz with it.

Naaa, push it more . Set the [Advanced]->[Chipset Config.]->[CPU - NB Link Speed] at 600MHz in your BIOS, then try again. Next step will be a moded 1.6 BIOS but first lets see how far it goes without that.

Nothing to do with grounding. It’s just a charge/de-charge at the line out witch is normal. A good amp should have protection for this. Just a failure in the design that it doesn’t have that protection nor a switch.

Priceless... no words on this one... . Thanx again, you know I love ya .

How high did you get with the OC? That PSU, what brand are we talking about?

What kind of amp and speakers to make one. Very interested, DW I was talking about a stereo amp from the store from Pioneer or Kenwood or so, just the lowest model with brand X speakers, 2 way, good enough for most of us. Subwoofer systems are nice when you look for small compact solutions but aren’t that good for music. There are do-it-yourself amp kits that are cheap and not so bad, based on MOSfets witch are efficient and powerful and sound good in general. Make sure you by a good transformer and use big caps to get a good constant current to the MOSfet transistors. That’s just basically it, lots of info all over the internet. Don’t get hooked to it . For the speakers; Buy speakers (drivers) from VIFA: Scandinavian and from the same group as ScanSpeak (best you can buy for money) and SEAS. Kit’s with filters and drawings are sold too from this brand. Only thing you have to build the boxes from MDF and connect all the components. PM me if you want to build your own speaker system, I can help you to start .

Yeah it could damage your speakers and amp. I would use a switch.

Nice link, but it´s a calculator for a powersupply so you still don´t know the real power consumption .