clidx

i set up my pc with wake on lan for orb and pimpstreamer (2 media streaming apps) and they work fine. but is there any script or something to make my pc go back to standby after the streaming is finished? thanks.

There, fixed it for you. But seriously.... this looks like a really hot laptop. As in awesome. And as in leg-frying. I want, and yet, I don't want since that money could go to multiple "reasonable" computers. emphasis on multiple reasonable computers

not as if we're going to fit an ultra 120 , tuniq tower 120 or the likes in it, how hot does it run? on a side note. I WANT ONE!! ... but it does look a bit fat; though i won't be complaining if i get one ¬_¬

that just makes me think "wtf" the dumbest thing i've ever done... hmm... i actually have to say nothing... oh yeah, it's not a mistake but i stood standing like an id*** for about 2 mins wondering whether i needed a new monitor due to it being vga and my graphics card being dvi and then i remembered the "weird thing" i read about in the manual, and voila, it was an adapter

well my pc is usually idle unless i'm gaming. haven't had any problems yet so i don't think i'll stress test that thoroughly. p95 passed with EIST and C1E on so in real world use, if it crashes, that's the first thing i'll try, ie turn off eist

so c1e is just the multi and EIST is vcore and fsb. strange, never seen EIST drop the bus speed... :S and i disabled EIST when overclocking, got stable speeds, stopped vdroop on my p5b deluxe (pencil mod), lowered the voltage as much as possible and turned EIST on again and p95 passed for 9 hours. now I'm happily running at 1.275 in bios and 1.264 when EIST decides to drop the vcore. so thanks for all your help on clarifying jcarle and punto!

thanks for the link. so c1e=drop in vcore and multi, eist=drop in vcore and fsb (i think).

http://techreport.com/articles.x/7998/2 says that c1e works by lowering the multi and vcore and eist works in the same way except the OS has to be capable of it as well. is this true? i thought that it was c1e controlling the vcore and eist controlling the multi.. or is it something else? if the site is correct than is it better to have eist on, c1e on or both on? they don't affect stability when they're both on but nothing seems to be done to the voltage when either/both are on, ever (which i blame on the p5b deluxe's vdroop, but i don't know). can anyone clarify this for me? thanks. edit: after rereading the article, it says that eist changes the settings more gradually than c1e does, and of course, c1e support is greater as the os doesn't have to be capable. so which one is better, would cause less stability issues etc?

^ nice mouse! (the vx nano) and nice monitor (on the HP rig)

if you're having problems with 32 bit programs that add shell extensions (ie right click etc) to explorer, but not working on 64 bit explorer, there's no way out of that except to use programs that use 64 bit shell extensions (i may have got some of this wrong but the concept is true )

i don't lock my home computer, but whenever i go to print something at school etc, i always lock before i leave. so many people trying to change passwords...

it seems that we have been hoaxed, it's a sparkle calibre 8800GTX. here's what anandtech has to say in an 8800GTX roundup, http://www.anandtech.com/printarticle.aspx?i=2873 scroll down a bit to the sparkle calibre 8800GTX section

OMG, 1gb ddr4 ram, puntomx you're right, that will lighten up anyone's wallet!! i don't think i'll be getting that... i think that's the most heatpipes i've ever seen on a stock cooler. EDIT: and google tells me that this is a release of the 9800 by sparkle, and their calibre cooling. so not a stock cooler i guess. here's the actual article (just in case) http://branev.blogspot.com/2007/08/new-nvi...e-9-series.html one thing that's confusing me... ok.. never heard that one before...

@puntomx, lol, i think i'll pass on that and btw jcarle, that is a front 120mm fan

@puntomx, actually that is a good idea (using tie-wraps to attach the fan to the cooler). it'd make the fan much more securely attached to the cooler than the elastic band. but using a rubber band works well enough for me at the moment, but i might use tie-wraps on the next upgrade that i'll do, even though it (hopefully) won't be for a very long time. but thanks for the idea and btw, does anyone have any tips for getting the fan at the front of the case, to move any air into the mobo area? the only way to cool the mobo is from the 70mm fan at the side, but most of that air gets sucked by the fan mounted on the cpu cooler, leaving my ram with relatively no new air the air from the fan at the front is mainly giving air to the fan under the gpu cooler since the X1950 pro is long and leaves about 4x15cm space for the air to go up. thanks for any suggestions.

here's mine: I would post more case pics (eg front and and front without cover) but they're the same as http://www.msfn.org/board/Post-Pictures-Sp...742#entry461742 you wouldn't believe the mess behind my monitor and case and btw, believe me, weirdly enough, adding an extra 120mm fan behind the ultra 120 extreme doees help by 2 C (which is weird since the exhaust fan is right behind it).. (and it's actually easy to attach another fan to the ultra 120 extreme, just get 4 fan screws and 4 elastic bands. then work it out yourself ) if anyone can't see it or is wondering what's under the accelero s1 cooler, it's a 120mm fan and a pci exhaust fan doesn't help at all when idle but gives me a good 5 C drop under load. as for the stick of wood, the fan is surprisingly heavy for a simple 120mm fan, the card was dropping about 2cm with it attached! specs: see sig xion II black, green led gaming case silverstone fm121 (intake) cheap ebuyer.com extra value fans - decent for under £2 for 4 pack (exhaust)(gpu cooler fan) 1xCD-RW drive (don't really know why i still have it) 1xDVD-/+RW drive arctic cooling MX-2 thermal goo (for cpu, it's easier to spread than most reviews will make you think)

i thought i couldn't add the 12V rails together like that (as i said in my other post) but i couldn't think of any other way to combine them to do the maths. @zxian thanks for the info, now i don't need to worry about my friends nagging me that you need a 500W psu when overclocking... *ahem* noobs. thanks to all of you. now i don't need to worry about my friends or midi2k6s warning unless i add more hardware.. and even then i doubt i'll be using up 61W easily..

sorry for bumping/double posting, but does anyone have any other ideas?

the only reason i set the voltages manually is that on auto, the mobo was a bit too.. let's say generous on the voltage settings. i could get a good 0.5V lower by setting it manuall (note i have not included vdroop in this calculation ) and i think my psu will be enough for the time being. after putting ALL of my hardware into account, it recommends me a 325W psu. i can post what i put in if you like. or we can do it manually. 95W tdp on 12V, X1950 Pro, ~66W (according to reviews), 95+66=151W so far. hdd*2=24W (according to puntomx and let's assume 12V) so 175W. and i don't know how much power a dvd burner uses so i'll assume 12W like a hdd. 24+175=299W. my psu has 2 12v rails of 15A each so i'll assume 30A (but i'm probably wrong in seeing it like this), so 12V*30A=360W. i'm safe by 61W and that's putting everything on the 12V rail. and this is the ABSOLUTE maximum unless usb devices suck the 12V rail (and i think they run on the 5V rail though i could be wrong). of course, puntomx did most of the calculations.. just proving my psu is enough

Ok, thanks for the information I read about a vdroop-preventing pencil mod for my board (p5b deluxe) and I tried it and lowered the vcore to 1.325V in the bios and it passed 3 hours, 4 cores P95 with small ffts. and cpu-z showed it as 1.32V, again. turns out that the p5b deluxe is a big vdrooper (is that even a word...) so thanks for the help. i'm now just wondering why asus made the vcore settings in the bios, in such small increments but drift so far from them in real world use...

i'm comfortably running at 3.3ghz, 7hrs stable on P95 but the voltage is bothering me. in my bios it's showing as 1.3625 but in cpu-z, when all 4 cores are stressed it's at 1.32? i read that there's something called vdroop that drops the vcore when idle. is this so or is cpu-z showing the incorrect info? thanks.

LOL. And you want to flash the bios instead? If you do a bios flash wrong, chances are your card is garbage. If you overclock too much, it may show artifacts and crash.. but not fry. That's only from extended overclocking and high temps. actually it's much easier to recover a bad vga bios than say, a bad mobo bios. you can reflash it by putting another vga card in, putting the bad card into another slot on the mobo and reflashing it. and some chips fry instantly when you try and overclock them.. (taken from a million overclocking guides) the chance is almost impossible but it has happened (again not my experience)

you mean you want the reference ATI bios? the original one made by ATI? i really doubt you'll see any speed increase. most likely you'll see speed decrease since sapphire likely bumped up the clock speeds, and those settings are saved in the bios. of course i'm not an expert though... are you having any specific problems with the card that could be because of the bios or are you trying to make your card perform better?

do not get that psu. it has only 1 12V rail with 16A. since you are buying a dedicated card, i don't think 16A will be enough. of course, if it had 2 12V rails then it'd be fine. basically the core components like motherboard, cpu and graphics card get power from the 12V rail. you want about 20A. but then again i don't know much about this stuff.. better to wait for puntoMX to reply. @below post, i must be going blind

unfortunately if it's on ebay it has to be buy it now since my parents won't let me bid for some weird reason. and http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll...o%3D1&fgtp= doesn't turn up many good results http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hauppauge-WIN-TV-PCI...VQQcmdZViewItem looks good but it's too near my price limit and i want to see if there's anything cheaper. and the vc100 seems to have crap image quality if you watch the video input in realtime, which is what i need so that's out of the question.