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alacran

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Everything posted by alacran

  1. I saw this and I think it may be interesting for all people that still want/like to use this old systems:
  2. In no way you are ignorant, I never thought or said that. In fact I have learned many thing from your info and also from your precise links and I appreciate that a lot. It is only that in this case related to standard Intel heatsinks my info is more accurate than yours. About the other subject, you forced me to give you that info with this comment. Your friend alacran
  3. Well my friend, just to let you know I'm a retired Mechanical and Electrical Engineer and took thermodynamics during 3 years on College. I repair PCs as a hobby since more than 20 years ago, even long before I was retired. And all Intel processors (wich come with heatsink and fan included into the box) I have installed in the last 20+ years blow air to the heatsink with no exception, but nevertheless if the user changed the heatsink, it usually comes with the fan installed, and if he removed the fan and put it back, it's very improbable to put it on the wrong direction as there is a sticker on the top side of the fan with all fan datas as RPM, Volts, Amperes; also the holes for the screws are usually deeper on the top side, making almost impossible to put it in the wrong direction, but better take a look to the attached picture of a Pentium 4 Socket 478 Heat Sink. From: https://store.cwc-group.com/pe4so478remo1.html I remember long time ago the AMD processors were sold without heatsink and you had to buy it separately, but they also came with the fan installed. alacran
  4. No, my friend, you are wrong usually the fan blow air on the heatsink, it is a more efficient process than the opposite, at higher pressure and speed of the air blow to the heatsink, the heat transferred from the heatsink to the air is higher, I assume you are not very familiar with thermodynamic. Also some times there are additional fans at the back extracing the hot air from inside the box (highly recommended on very hot locations) but the cheap cases do not provide them, you have to buy and install them. alacran
  5. Because of your question I assume you have a single partition for your Win7 and maybe also a first little (150MB) hiden partition for the boot files/folders. You can do an UPDATE install on same drive location. Verify first if your HD is MBR or GPT (for UEFI) formated. If your drive is encripted desencript it now, if you used a HD password on the Bios/UEFI, remove it. If yor actual system is booting fine. I recommend to first fully defragment your HD before put the HD on new hardware, or you can do it from a WinPE on the new hardware before installing or reinstalling the OS, and make sure therere is enough space for the new install on same drive. Easier way is put your HD on new hardware, open the Bios/firmware and select CSM if your HD is MBR formated or UEFI if it is GPT formated. You need to be very carefull with this. Make sure the OS to install is compatable with the new hardware and if there are drivers available for it. Boot from from your 7, 8.x or 10 DVD or USB (it has to be same architecture x86 or x64 as previous install), and select UPDATE during install (no matter if it is same OS as previous), on same OS previous drive/partition location (without formating it), the install will put all old system isolated into a folder (Windows old) on the root of the drive and make a new fresh install on same partition, (no need to change name), keeping intact all your documents and almost all programs, of course you will need to activate it and maybe reinstall or update some programs if they are not compatable with new OS installed or hardware. NOTE: during install use same user name and password to avoid troubles with protected or encripted files (by Windows) on your documents folder, or they will not be accesible latter. alacran
  6. Too much, too less, improper cleaning of old paste or a bad quality paste may cause it. Also make sure the heat sink is firmly attached to the processor. Here you have processor specs: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/27499/intel-pentium-4-processor-supporting-ht-technology-3-06-ghz-512k-cache-533-mhz-fsb.html As you can see TCASE is 69° C, where TCASE or Case Temperature is the maximum temperature allowed at the processor Integrated Heat Spreader. So it means it has been overheated, AFAIR the highest temp during heavy loads (running AIDA 64 stress tests or whatever it was called on those times) I used to get on those processors was about 60 to 62° C If applaying new paste do not fix the issue it may be time to raplace the equipment, after all that processor and MB are from 2002 or 2003 (17 to 18 years old) and that's a long time. alacran
  7. @ Cixert Turn off the PC, remove/unplug the power line, remove the heat sink, clean old thermal compound (on it and on processor), apply new thermal compound, reinstall heat sink, replug power line and reboot PC. Problem should be solved unless there is a failure on the temperature sensor. alacran
  8. You can try Simplix Pack (Use Google translate as the page is in Rusian), but the program is in English: http://forum.oszone.net/thread-257198.html alacran
  9. I use this 3 free programs: MSMG Toolkit This is a good start to let you remove all unwanted (CR)Apps and many other parts, from your install.wim image indexes including some related to telemetry MSMG Toolkit: https://msmgtoolkit.in/ O&O ShutUp10 After install you can also use O&O ShutUp10: https://www.oo-software.com/en/shutup10 Firewall App Blocker And finally you can use Firewall App Blocker (Fab) v1.6, by means of Whitelist all inbond and outbond connections are blocked, and only the programs you select will be able to connect to Internet: https://www.sordum.org/8125/firewall-app-blocker-fab-v1-6/ alacran
  10. I know this is not a vsbscript but this little utility has been very useful to me. Old Timer’s ConvertIt is a simple to use tool that will convert single and multiple hex strings to ASCII text and also the reverse of creating hex values from ASCII text. It supports both the old Windows 9x version 4 and the modern version 5 registry .reg files. Paste in the hex (everything after the colon in the .reg file) or text value, select the conversion method and click the button. The result is clean and stripped of erroneous characters. Hex(2) is for a single line value, Hex(7) is a multiple line value. OTConverIt is only 174KB in size and portable. http://www.geekstogo.com/forum/files/file/404-otconvertit/ alacran
  11. @JFX Sorry I didn't know it is already applied on WinNTSetup. @wimb It was only an idea trying to avoid the need to boot in Safe Mode, and yes it is a good practice the way you do it.
  12. JFYI In some cases it is good to control the expansion of an expandable VHD, a simple reg file added by means of WinNTSetup >>> Tricks, will do it. For more info see: http://reboot.pro/topic/22195-vhd-virtual-disks-tips-and-tricks/#entry213553 alacran Controlled-Expansion-VHD.reg
  13. @wimb Perhaps a second reboot after applying the update, before capture could solve the issue too. And then no need to boot in Safe Mode after applying the image. alacran
  14. @JFX Thanks for your quick answer, I think usb-boot-watcher will solve my problem. alacran
  15. @JFX I need to make a Win7 VHD capable to run from USB on an old PC with only USB 2.0 ports, checking Win7USBBoot.ini it seems to me it is actually oriented for USB 3.x, I remember there was an older version of this file for USB 2.0 (using Win 7 generic driver), hope you still have it available. Could you be so kind and give me a link to download it? or just attach it on your post. In case the old version of Win7USBBoot.ini (for USB 2.0) is not compatible with curret version of WinNTSetup, also an old version on WinNTSetup made before the current version of Win7USBBoot.ini (dated October 5th 2016) will work for my actual needs. Thanks in advance alacran
  16. JFYI Just in case some of you are interested on FFU format, I started a thread about this subject on reboot.pro: http://reboot.pro/topic/22182-capture-and-apply-windows-full-flash-update-ffu-images/ Where you can see more info about the use of this format, and about DismMountService a GUI tool for Dism (from Retokener) capable to capture/apply on FFU format, and recommended version of Dism (10.0.17763.1 on 10 v1809) for this task, since Dism Version 10.0.18362.1 ( on 10 v1903) seems to have some bug related to this feature. Best Regards alacran
  17. @JFX Any plans on adding .ffu images to WinNTSetup, or maybe for future version 5. Source: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/manufacture/desktop/deploy-windows-using-full-flash-update--ffu Source: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/manufacture/desktop/wim-vs-ffu-image-file-formats FFU image format: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/manufacture/mobile/ffu-image-format alacran
  18. AFAIR The installer let you know once installed you can't remove it, anyway it do not cause troubles and it is better to have it installed on your equipment, you never know when it (DX-9 ) will be required, since DX-10 wich comes with Win7 is uncomplete (lacks many featurs from DX-9) without it. I always install it just after installing Win and MB drivers, on all PCs at home. alacran
  19. Try a newer version (if possible on your Win8x64) I'm using v70 on Win7 and there is not a single problem. alacran
  20. And expect more updates to slow down the OS, it is the usual strategy to push users to change to the newer OS. It started on January 2018 with Spectre and Meltdown palliative (pseudo) fixes from Intel and MS. Just after Dicember 2017 updates, I stopped installing updates, and not a single problem here, just keep updating Avast Free and Firefox. and running Malwarebytes AntiMalware free about each two months, just to make sure everything is fine. alacran
  21. I use since long time ago this free firewall controler from sordum.org and it works great. Firewall App Blocker (Fab) v1.6: https://www.sordum.org/8125/firewall-app-blocker-fab-v1-6/
  22. I updated my 7x64 Iso upto Dic/2017 just before all the debacle about Meltdown and Spectre, and installed the OS, since then I decided to stop updating the OS, since every update is full of telemetry and also very frecuently bugy, I have Avast Free AV, and run maybe once every 2 months the AV and also Malwarebytes Antimalware free, just to confirm the PC is clean, and I haven't got a single virus. So only updates on my PC are for FireFox, Avast and Antimalware. Now Win7 support is very close to end, I may update my Iso with the final last update, (cleaning as much telemetry as possible) and reinstall 7x64 and will use it as log as there are AV and browser available for it. So my OS do not grow at same rate as yours, it is using right now 21.5 GB from a 50 GB partition, System restore is deactivated, since I make periodicaly full images of each OS in the PC, documents, all games and majority of programs are installed on another partition, I have backups of all important info on external disks, the idea is keep to OS partition basicaly with only the OS, Office, AV and browser to get the smaller size when making an image of the OS partition. Also have 10x64 on another partition (it was done to get the free HWID register only, almost never used), and Linux Mint 19.2 Cinnamon x64 on a secondary disk, wich I have been testing for about 2 or 3 weeks now and so far found it is a good solid OS (and you get about twice or thrice a week small size updates) only issues are many games and Autocad do not run on Linux, but for anything else it is very fine.
  23. Well, you always had the answer all the time.
  24. You could also try using the online free version of Sketchup directly on your browser (from Linux): https://www.sketchup.com/plans-and-pricing/sketchup-free I think FireFox or Google Chrome will work fine for this.
  25. @Windows 2000 I think you should buy the best AMD CPU with included graphics, and compatible Motherboard you can pay, and it will have better graphic capavilities and will be good for long time, about the storage I differ a little with WalkInSilence, since for starting the SSD you selected is good enought for OS (32 GB is the requirement for any x64 OS) and still have some space (about 85 GB) available, then latter when/if required you can add a secondary (mechanical) HDD or a secondary bigger SSD if you prefer, to increase the storage. So better put more the money on CPU and motherboard than in a bigger SSD. Or you will lament it later. About the Motherboard: Asus is my prefered option even the entry level models. Gigabyte is also a reputable brand and would be my second option. Don't buy a cheaper brand as they usually faill sooner than the 2 mentioned brands, just to let you know I still have an i3 3225 running on an Asus MB (first and only MB used), and another i3 3225 (My brother PC) still working (both builded with a difference of 3 months) is on its third MB (one Asrock and now on second Biostar), soket 1155 MBs were not available anymore but I had 2 used Biostar from upgraded PCs.


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