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alacran

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About alacran

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    Windows 7 x64
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  1. This are the FREE tools I usually use: To remove unwanted Apps and some caracteristics of Win10, or also install some redistributables as DirectX, .Net framework, etc, and also add some tricks on your install.wim Index(s), before install, see: MSMG ToolKit. To install and also add some tricks, see: WinNTSetup To add usefull links to PC context menu, see: http://reboot.pro/topic/22323-compact-mode-installs/page-2#entry215558 To have more control on Telemetry and Updates, see: O&O ShutUp10. And finally to control incoming and outgoing connections, see: Firewall App Blocker (Fab) alacran
  2. @ZhuMa Thanks, just replacing the file C:\Windows\System32\drivers\exfat.sys with your version, and 10x64-19H1 booted fine. Just a question: Does 10 v2004 not require a modded driver? alacran
  3. @ZhuMa 10x86-19H1 boots fine installed on a exFAT drive at usuall speed, but 10x64-19H1 booting is very slow. I can't download the exFAT driver for x64 mentioned on your procedure, without it x64 booting is very slow, Could you please load it to Mediafire? Thanks in advance alacran
  4. For people using WinPEs this info may be usefull: From: http://reboot.pro/topic/22333-useful-info-for-winpes-wimboot-and-compact-installs/#entry215752
  5. I found this and I think it may be intersting for some people:
  6. I saw this and I think it may be interesting for all people that still want/like to use this old systems:
  7. In no way you are ignorant, I never thought or said that. In fact I have learned many thing from your info and also from your precise links and I appreciate that a lot. It is only that in this case related to standard Intel heatsinks my info is more accurate than yours. About the other subject, you forced me to give you that info with this comment. Your friend alacran
  8. Well my friend, just to let you know I'm a retired Mechanical and Electrical Engineer and took thermodynamics during 3 years on College. I repair PCs as a hobby since more than 20 years ago, even long before I was retired. And all Intel processors (wich come with heatsink and fan included into the box) I have installed in the last 20+ years blow air to the heatsink with no exception, but nevertheless if the user changed the heatsink, it usually comes with the fan installed, and if he removed the fan and put it back, it's very improbable to put it on the wrong direction as there is a sticker on the top side of the fan with all fan datas as RPM, Volts, Amperes; also the holes for the screws are usually deeper on the top side, making almost impossible to put it in the wrong direction, but better take a look to the attached picture of a Pentium 4 Socket 478 Heat Sink. From: https://store.cwc-group.com/pe4so478remo1.html I remember long time ago the AMD processors were sold without heatsink and you had to buy it separately, but they also came with the fan installed. alacran
  9. No, my friend, you are wrong usually the fan blow air on the heatsink, it is a more efficient process than the opposite, at higher pressure and speed of the air blow to the heatsink, the heat transferred from the heatsink to the air is higher, I assume you are not very familiar with thermodynamic. Also some times there are additional fans at the back extracing the hot air from inside the box (highly recommended on very hot locations) but the cheap cases do not provide them, you have to buy and install them. alacran
  10. Because of your question I assume you have a single partition for your Win7 and maybe also a first little (150MB) hiden partition for the boot files/folders. You can do an UPDATE install on same drive location. Verify first if your HD is MBR or GPT (for UEFI) formated. If your drive is encripted desencript it now, if you used a HD password on the Bios/UEFI, remove it. If yor actual system is booting fine. I recommend to first fully defragment your HD before put the HD on new hardware, or you can do it from a WinPE on the new hardware before installing or reinstalling the OS, and make sure therere is enough space for the new install on same drive. Easier way is put your HD on new hardware, open the Bios/firmware and select CSM if your HD is MBR formated or UEFI if it is GPT formated. You need to be very carefull with this. Make sure the OS to install is compatable with the new hardware and if there are drivers available for it. Boot from from your 7, 8.x or 10 DVD or USB (it has to be same architecture x86 or x64 as previous install), and select UPDATE during install (no matter if it is same OS as previous), on same OS previous drive/partition location (without formating it), the install will put all old system isolated into a folder (Windows old) on the root of the drive and make a new fresh install on same partition, (no need to change name), keeping intact all your documents and almost all programs, of course you will need to activate it and maybe reinstall or update some programs if they are not compatable with new OS installed or hardware. NOTE: during install use same user name and password to avoid troubles with protected or encripted files (by Windows) on your documents folder, or they will not be accesible latter. alacran
  11. Too much, too less, improper cleaning of old paste or a bad quality paste may cause it. Also make sure the heat sink is firmly attached to the processor. Here you have processor specs: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/27499/intel-pentium-4-processor-supporting-ht-technology-3-06-ghz-512k-cache-533-mhz-fsb.html As you can see TCASE is 69° C, where TCASE or Case Temperature is the maximum temperature allowed at the processor Integrated Heat Spreader. So it means it has been overheated, AFAIR the highest temp during heavy loads (running AIDA 64 stress tests or whatever it was called on those times) I used to get on those processors was about 60 to 62° C If applaying new paste do not fix the issue it may be time to raplace the equipment, after all that processor and MB are from 2002 or 2003 (17 to 18 years old) and that's a long time. alacran
  12. @ Cixert Turn off the PC, remove/unplug the power line, remove the heat sink, clean old thermal compound (on it and on processor), apply new thermal compound, reinstall heat sink, replug power line and reboot PC. Problem should be solved unless there is a failure on the temperature sensor. alacran
  13. You can try Simplix Pack (Use Google translate as the page is in Rusian), but the program is in English: http://forum.oszone.net/thread-257198.html alacran
  14. I use this 3 free programs: MSMG Toolkit This is a good start to let you remove all unwanted (CR)Apps and many other parts, from your install.wim image indexes including some related to telemetry MSMG Toolkit: https://msmgtoolkit.in/ O&O ShutUp10 After install you can also use O&O ShutUp10: https://www.oo-software.com/en/shutup10 Firewall App Blocker And finally you can use Firewall App Blocker (Fab) v1.6, by means of Whitelist all inbond and outbond connections are blocked, and only the programs you select will be able to connect to Internet: https://www.sordum.org/8125/firewall-app-blocker-fab-v1-6/ alacran
  15. I know this is not a vsbscript but this little utility has been very useful to me. Old Timer’s ConvertIt is a simple to use tool that will convert single and multiple hex strings to ASCII text and also the reverse of creating hex values from ASCII text. It supports both the old Windows 9x version 4 and the modern version 5 registry .reg files. Paste in the hex (everything after the colon in the .reg file) or text value, select the conversion method and click the button. The result is clean and stripped of erroneous characters. Hex(2) is for a single line value, Hex(7) is a multiple line value. OTConverIt is only 174KB in size and portable. http://www.geekstogo.com/forum/files/file/404-otconvertit/ alacran
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