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I did and still do that (even the re-balling UV), but not everybody has the right tools, eyes and experience to do that. Some people, like us, like to make old stuff like new, or even better. The above wan't mend as sarcasm ;).

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No PCI-e USB-2 adapters available locally. Yes, there's a Driver Mini-CD with it. Not goimg to bother with searching for a USB-2 adapter either - heck with it. At least I have the USB-3 one for, say, USB-3 External HDD Enclosure. Also have a USB->PS2 cable for those pesky times when I don't have an available USB KBD/Mouse available. ;)

Will attempt a reflash - later. If it still fails - eBay-City! :thumbup (been busy with other older stuff to clean the room out)

Edited by submix8c
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  • 1 month later...

Just an Update on this topic.

I made a Fully Unattended (x86) Windows 7 HomePremium (unaltered ISO) via AUTOUNATTEND, put it on USB along with the USB3 Driver (and the Autounattend) and using the GRUB4DOS(MBR)/FIRADISK, plugged in the USB3 Card, plugged in a CLEAN (i.e. did a DISKPART on it) SATA HDD, and it DID install via one of the FRONT USB2 ports (remember the "it boots" above?).

It was somewhat "touch-and-go" becuase The MoBo SOMETIMES did not SEE the USB2 Stick. Took a couple of reboots (turnoff/turn on).

Wierd part? Now NONE of the other USB's are functional, although they ARE "seen" by the OS. Only the USB3 Add-In is functional (for the Keyboard/Mouse).

The Wired NIC is totally non-Functional as well ("seen" by the OS - "no cable connected"). The Add-in Wireless functions normally.

Baffled... Potentially a bad Power Supply? I have ONE NEW one (400w) that I hesitate to stick in it since it wasn't cheap and is for another PC I'm assembling.

Yes, the Add-In Video works fine and undoubtedly draws a lot of power BUT with it OUT and using the "integrated" the original symptoms exist.

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2. Nope, using some "tools" it has SLICv2.1 (dumped it) only in the ACPI and completely matches the "pulled" Certificate (from tokens).

I've "pulled" the BIOS from a "quiet autoexec" execution via USB Boot (front port), but strangely enough, another "tool" doesn't recognize the SLIC, but does indicate an "unlinked" module(s). I *might* have not used the correct tool? (AMIBIOS Core version 8)

FWIW, the SMBIOS between the two (downloaded versus "pulled") indicate a *different* revision of the MoBo (1.2 vs 1.3) *and* date, so it would be safe to assume that the current BIOS is a "special modded" for it (at least there is no *indicated* BIOS update). Hmmm - the "newer" ones also say as much (Rev 1.2). Will continue to "dig" on exactly *how* to "flash" upgrade (there are special parameters). Also inspecting output from PCwizard for comparison purposes. Everest shows the same info as specified...

Still, the "failures" noted above under the Running OS ( activated w/OEM Key and CERT, btw ;) ) is worrisome. I had thought that *potentially* the PWR may be bad. That's cheaper and easier to obtain and change than the MoBo. I'm thinking that I'll contact the owner and warn they might be replacing my PWR in case it fries, after all, he just told me seveal days ago that he already bought a PC for just the kids for... $1800!!! It's his wife's PC I've got and quote - "she's bugging me" - unquote. (and I'm doing this on-the-cheap? sheesh!) -Note- Even a eBay one of the same Part# may yield a non-functional Table (would need to use Case COA) and different MoBo Rev# (would need to confirm before $).

Thanks for looking, Trip.

Will update whenever I succeed or totally screw it up.

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  • 1 month later...

Update - Cleaning/SwappingAround the RAM sticks didn't work. Did it and VERY foolishly plugged the Keyboard into a Back Port, booted and (sigh...) same original symptoms. Shut down and put Keyboard back into the USB3, same thing (too late!). Nor did using a brand new (tested) 400w Power Supply. I hate this PC! :thumbdown

On a side note, here's the XML I used for the Totally Quiet Unattended (post #6). I simply placed the USB3 Drivers into folder $WinPEDriver$ at the ROOT of the USB and let it Install. Guess I'll do it one more time so I can wipe out the BIOS entirely. :ph34r: :woot:


(now cross-posted)

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I saw something like this happen before in an Acer. Ended up replacing the motherboard because literally nothing I did was working.

I ended up hanging onto the mobo just in case, and when I went back to it, several months later, it was just working.

I would leave the machine unplugged and without power for a few days and see what happens. As Punto mentioned, check all USB ports for damage. I had a computer in recently that wouldn't boot with upgraded RAM because a USB port was broken and shorted. I suspect you may have a problem in there that you just don't notice yet.

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Post #5, Comment #1 - all of this time, you don't think I did that? Guess you didn't notice that I got a RUNNING Win7 installed -and- the fact that they "register" in the OS as "functional" but are PHYSICALLY IGNORED (nothing plugged in is "found")! In addition, I SPECIFICALLY STATED that INCLUDED the NIC Connector ("cable unplugged"). Explain that one...

The ONLY things I haven't done is pull the MoBo and bench-test -or- update the BIOS. If you were to (exhaustively, I might add) do a WWW Search (Bing, Google, Yahoo, whatever) you'll note that inevitably the MoBo's were RMA'd/Replaced. This one is out of warranty.

Your suggestion is a bit obvious - been there, done that, changed (new) battery, Clear CMOS Jumper, Remover Battery, let sit, Put in battery, let sit, Plug in/Out, etc etc.

Thanks anyway... ;)

@ All/Anyone - the BIOS Update is to do a V5.x to a v6.x and the Document states this -

Beginning with the Summer 2010 introduction cycle, all HP desktop PC products will transition to Version 6 BIOS. Eventually all desktop PC motherboards will be using Version 6 BIOS. BIOS’s that are on the web will not allow a V5 BIOS to be flashed with a V6.
BIOS V6 also provides the interface for DMI information. A separate DMI utility file will not be needed. In order to enter the BIOS and edit the DMI information, the use of Ctl-F10 is required. Using F10 will only bring up the DMI information in read-only.


Converged Motherboards / CSB Motherboards will roll part numbers due to BIOS and the addition of bumpers on the board.

This Mobo is listed as CSB. My question - What does (it should be obvious, but...) what I hi-lited mean?

Side note/query -

CSB=”Customer Solution Board” (?)

Not that any of this matters - I'm gonna kill the BIOS anyway, seeing as how said owner has bypassed the "replace MoBo" from eBay so why should I pull it out? Kill entirely, button it up, give it back no-charge. TIRED of it -and- it uses up my limited space -and- side-tracks from my own projects. :yes:

Edited by submix8c
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