BlouBul

I was puzzled how they succeeded in immersing the Yukkaflux without any fruit , but realize now that they also have cherries, minneolas, lychees and granadillas. According to some forgotten and passé legends ballads and suggestions by some progressive associations (though passionately challenged by fuddy duddies ), there might even be bananas

Well you can still use your guide, it is exactly the same if you use the cheapest of the three($5.51), alternatively, if you choose to use one of the USB ones, you can skip the whole "build your own converter part" and plug the one end in your usb port and the other three wires to the Rx, Tx and GND of your HDD (after loopback) I don't think you will get a Voltage problem with the serial to TTL converter if you connect it after your computer is booted up and with USB to TTL I haven't heard about similar problems

You do know you do not necessarily need that exact converter. Lots of other (and closer ones to where you live) will also work (even Nokia data cables). SeeRead-Me-First #11

That is good Not sure Check all connections again (maybe something came loose) The loopback must work again before you try to unbrick the drive). It is not necessary to power down the computer to connect the SATA power to the HDD, just do it carefully.

Not quite sure what you are asking Do you mean if you do not have the extra power feed? Well , the black thing is the SATA Power that goes to the HDD you want to unbrick and the +12V wire in the molex adapter should be connected to a molex adapter from your PC. The 12V wire are just in the unfortunate position to be group with the rest in the connector and should NOT be used for anything else. The line directly underneath your photo says: Also see the next photo in the guide where it shows "the black thing" connected to the hdd. Also see Read-me-First #11

Maybe not, but they are continually buzzed, drugged, befuddled and three sheets in the windiness That is the root of their giddy, silly, bubbleheaded and scatterbrained attitude Correct. That is because there are no hangovers, delirium tremens, headaches or morning-afters (Actually, behind the green glass door, there are NO mornings at all, but only afternoons and nighttime )

Thanks everyone for your input and help. Aftert several unsuccessful attempts to contact invisionpower (I guess they are not too much interested in individuals complaining about blocked IP's), I contacted my ISP which saw that it was due to the routing through a cache server that caused the problems. All their IPs were banned. All fine now :D

Naturally. They look, without observing, they see, without understanding the deep, hidden (muddy?) nitty-gritty that is eyeballing them. With just a little additional application of their little green cells (green as in rotten through the insufficient running thereof), they can assumedly boost their current efficiency.

There are plenty Seekers, but no Finders...

I think you should stop worrying and just do it See FGA #2 @stevepud There are no reports of 7200.11's bricking with updated firmware. The 7200.10 bricking should be the same (and the reports of them bricking with any firmware are also few and far between). In other words if you update the firmware AND have a backup (which you should have anyway for ANY drive), you should be safe

No prob. Seagate is actually quite reliable (except for this one boo-boo they had), but if your firmware is updated, there shouldn't be any more surprises and it should be as reliable (if not more) than most other brands.

Sorry if my tone sounded condescending, that was not intended. I just tried to explain to you why your attempts do not work and answer your question in easy to understand language. The problem with that drive is (as you have read in that other thread), we do not have a solution for that drive. The only way is to send it for data recovering (which won't be cheap).

Now I am confused. I thought you said you had two 7200.11's to be fixed? And yes, as has been very clearly stated in the READ-ME-FIRST, this method is ONLY for the 7200.11 series It is like you ask people how to loosen a no.11 nut. Everyone suggests a no.11 spanner. You e-mail the seller, tell him you have two no.11 nuts to loosen and asks if his no.11 spanner will work. When it didn't, you asks around and people suggested you might have the wrong spanner. You then buy the most expensive no.11 spanner you can find. When the spanner still doesn't work, you tell people it fits loosely, but slips. Then you suggest it might be because you have a no. 10 nut (which the people told you before won't work with a no. 11 spanner) In this example there are no no. 10 spanners

Sounds very familiar... (and firmware is affected) If it is not seen in BIOS then there is a very good chance that it is BSY and you can safely try this method. Good luck

Your Welcome Glad you managed to fix it.

I guess you did not follow the part about powering down BEFORE hitting that command. You can do that safely now and then do the last part as per his guide. Do not panic, nothing serious is wrong

Don't worry, these things happen in the best of families Glad you managed to fix it Well, if I also had lots of money to spend, I would just buy a whole new computer with the highest specs and biggest hdd available , if I do not have that luxury, I would stick with what I have. Do not believe everything you read *somewhere*. The very first version of SD1A had some issues in Jan'09 before it was pulled and replaced with a working SD1A with no issues reported so far. Also see FGA #3.

I think I'm doing it correctly. I tried completely removing PCB board as well as using card trick. After I reconnect the PCB board, I hold it tight and then tighten the screws pretty good. I cleaned the contacts. But nothing changed. My concern is the quiet "ticing" sound, I'll try recording it tonight and posting here. Could it be the cable. I'm thinking that since I was able to connect and perform the "Z" command then it shouldn't be the cable. I'm not sure what else I can try. Thank you very much. See if anything here helps: See replies also. Sorry cannot give direct link as I have to access via proxy that confuse the living daylights out of links. Also here (page 146 of this thread) Click on curved arrow top left of quote to go there: EDIT: Here is link

What did you do last time? Did it pick up the drivers automatically? If it did, maybe try deleting the driver and see if it fix itself. Otherwise your converter might also be damaged.

Since I do not no which converter you have, I could not possibly tell you where to find the correct one. Which driver did you use last time? A good start is normally the manufacturer of the converter or the installation CD that came with it..

OK. Let us start at the beginning. Go to Control Panel - Hardware-Device Manager. See if your Converter is seen under ports (not with a yellow !). That will mean your converter is installed with the correct driver. If not reinstall the correct driver. Use that same port in HyperTerminal.

In other works make sure that your converter is seen as a port in your Device Manager and use that port in Hyperterminal. If it is not seen in Device Manager, you do not have the right driver installed. and, NO, during loopback, you ONLY connect Rx and Tx, no ground,

See FGA #4 Does your loopback test work? And remember to upgrade your firmware after you have fixed and backed up your drive (I assume you have a backup already after the first time)

Yes. You have a classic case of BSY. Read the stickies. Especially the Read-me-first, Guide by Carter-in-Canada and the FGA. Similar to the vid you have seen.

Yes, it is a really stupid question. Especially since you haven't read the FGA. See FGA #1