BlouBul

No If you choose install on first use, next time you try to open Outlook (which you want to be Outlook 2007), it will install Outlook 2000. Rather choose Don't install for the features you already have and do not want to replace. The .pst file only holds your mail (and contacts). Your mail settings is not in that file. You will need to enter that again (if you happen to fresh install Office again) Anyway, besides your username and password, that is just a three/four extra settings to add that you will be able to get from your ISP's website. The second time is always easier Anyway with these results we have to repeat it! Umm... maybe! Umm, definitely!!! AFAICR when you insert your Office 2007 cd, and select install, it will see that you have already Office install and ask you if you rather want to repair your installation. Office Diagnostics also have that feature (not sure if it is the same, but can be accessed by typing appwiz.cpl in the Search programs and files box http://support.microsoft.com/kb/924611 There is a way to read docx files with the old office (dencorso mentioned it in the previous thread) and for Office 2007 the conversion to pdf is also not standard, you need an extra plugin for that. That plugin might also work on 2000. (just a wild guess) You're welcome. I think we are very near to solve this problem now. My recommendations are still the same: Try repair If not work, try uninstall Word 2007 and reinstall Word 2007 If not work, try uninstall Word 2007 and install Word 2000 with custom install and all other programs selected as DO NOT INSTALL (on same drive, you can choose a funny installation folder for the files if you are really worried)

Serious? It sounds to me like a resounding success!!! No, the registry changes will still be the same - just with different paths... I thought we (at least this part of we) decided to first uninstall Word 2007 before installing Word 2000 Oops. Maybe the shortcut just changed. Either navigate to outlook.exe through explorer or maybe try repairing outlook from the cd. Did you install Office 2000 or only Word 2000 as recommended? Always a good idea to backup (just copy when outlook is not running) your outlook.pst file first, although it should still be in its original place afterwards. Also if you have your username and password, it should be easy to setup your mail again (there is usually a method on their website), although theoretically that should not be necessary if you install only Word. Wow!! That is what I wanted to hear!! (Never fear when Clippy is near! ) So I guess that means Norton doesn’t interfere too much with Word 2000 (yet!) The second time is always easier Anyway with these results we have to repeat it! Some garbage must have been removed with the reconfiguration. Wonder if a repair install will help? Well, apart from the thoughts above, Is there any features that Word 2007 have that you will miss if you use Office 2007 with Word 2000? (I sure miss Clippy!) It sure seems like the problem lies with Office 2007. Maybe the registry is just messed up and a reinstall / Repair install of Office 2007/Word 2007 might also do the trick. Maybe First try to repair install Word 2007. If that doesn't work, uninstall Word 2007 and the reinstall Word 2007. And if after all that it is still slow, uninstall Word 2007 and install Clippy.

Please read FGA. Pay special attention to #4

Glad it worked (and you're welcome )

Maybe phone a friend... Otherwise, yes. No, data cable not connected during fix.

That is the right guide to use Does your loopback test work? Do you have a cheap PSU? See here. Otherwise we need more info on your converter setup and everything in your own words. The more detail you give, the more likely we will be able to identify the problem.

I do not think a dual install of Office 2000 and Office2007 will be a problem on Vista, but maybe we should just check that with dencorso/PuntoMX/someone else. I think it will just create its own directory under Program files and both Office versions should work, just want to make sure it doesn't disturb the registry too much (don't think so, though). The best is (if you still have both cds) to first uninstall Word 2007, and then install Word 2000. You do not need to do it for the whole Office suite, since you would then have to re-setup Outlook (which isn't difficult). Word only should be easy. You can look for your cd in the mean time, while we are waiting for confirmation

Do you still have your Word 2000 install disk? I'd suggest tests some on your computers and sees what happens. AFAICR your laptop has Works and not Word. Maybe we should test it with the old version of Word.

Hi Jorge, Here's why I'm thinking that better hardware will NOT help. Correct me if I'm wrong . Back in the other thread, when you opened the original offending file in Windows 98 on your ancient dinosaurish Pentium I, it still opened faster than your current P4 with a lot more RAM. When CoffeeFiend said that a Pentium E5500 would run 60% faster than your current E2200, I think he meant that the hardware related portion of the 3:40 minutes will be 60% faster. Since the Pentium I opened it in under 3 minutes, I do not think the hardware related portion is that much I understand that you are not too keen to mess with your current *working* system. That is why I suggested to try it on your less used laptop first (since it won't be a train smash if you cannot get it immediately to work again, but only in a couple of days (although I do not foresee any problems)). I also heard some rumours that the current Norton is a bit faster than its predecessors, but still think it is worth a quick test. It might not even be Norton, but just something in your registry that got scrambled with all the registry cleaners you ran (that is why I suggested a clean install). The beauty of a the verified working image dencorso was referring to, is that you can try all these things, with no risk If you do not like the changes, you just undo them by putting your old image back Although it open slightly faster in safe mode, it might still be influenced by a totally mucked up registry or lots of Norton code in the registry (even though Norton is not running). It won't cost you anything (except some time) to test it that way, and if you still want to upgrade your system after that (which is always nice), you might actually see a real difference

I do hope your SATA data cable is not connected? Otherwise give more info of exactly what you are trying to commit there, since I normally leave my crystal ball at work and do not have access to it during weekends.

Try using a converter (READ-ME-FIRST Point #10) See also post directly above yours.

He also uses the best hard drive, same as me and you (at least it ensures some exitement every once in a while and gives you a good story to tell ) Anyway Jorge, I have to agree with Punto, You are trying to solve a software issue by trying to add more hardware (won;t work ) . You know how I feel about Norton. I used to be one of their biggest fans (even used Norton Commander for DOS as my default file manageri once upon a time, long, long ago in the pre-windows days) and used all their products till about 2004, when I started to feel that it is consuming a lot more resources than its competitors. Then I changed to Kaspersky, and more recently to NOD32 and never had a problem with either (Punto says he is not a salesman, but he nearly convinced me now to try MSE ). If you really do not like it, you can always change back. Also with BOTH PuntoMX and dencorso (who would rather err on the side of safety), I can really not see anything going wrong. Another option (if you still do not want to try it on your PC), is to first try it on your laptop, and if you like it and got the confidence in the process, then try it on your work computer. But that's just my 0.02 ZAR.

One line you forgot: 你好s964618。 欢迎到MSFN For the rest of us: http://translate.google.com/#auto|en|%E5%A4%A7%E5%AE%B6%E5%A5%BD%0A%0A%E6%88%91%E4%BE%86%E8%87%AA%20%E5%8F%B0%E7%81%A3%E5%BF%AB%E6%A8%82%E7%9A%84%E7%BE%8E%E9%BA%97%E5%AF%B6%E5%B3%B6%0A%0A%E9%82%84%E6%9C%89%20%E5%8F%B0%E7%81%A3%E5%8F%AF%E4%B8%8D%E5%B1%AC%E6%96%BC%E4%B8%AD%E5%9C%8B%E4%B8%80%E9%83%A8%E5%88%86%E5%94%B7%20

Yes I will save it in my software folder on my external hdd, next to a copy of my windows, office and Norton (all with their serials in text files), and based on my past experience, I will choose which to install after a reformat (Please Note: "Infectmypc.zip" will be installed before Norton )

Hi chezbippy See jaclaz's post earlier on page See READ-ME-FIRSTPoint #10 for more info. If you get a 3.3V USB to TTL you do not need the breadboard and you can make yourself a female adapter by just rolling a short piece of isolation tape around the end.

It might be a good idea to first evaluate the potential problems by first make a list of the programs you actually use (like Windows and Office and maybe one or two others). See if you still have the install disks and/or serials. Some programs you can get the serial from the program itself (if you are specific, we might be able to help you retrieve some of them). I normally like to keep a soft copy of all my installation files (with their serials) in a folder on my hdd. Then it is very easy to install it again (since I would also not like trying to find all the original cd/serials again ).

Glad to hear that it worked (and your poor heart survived the ordeal) The powering down step is actually recommended

Yeah, but at least it has been reported to not be a problem before , and you are already past the difficult stage, so it *should* be easy (except for the nerves ) to get it working again

Hi drr104, There were some reports (also here and here) of that happening before . In those cases they just powered down, and redid the procedure, after which it worked first time.

Hi JorgeA, I think what dencorso wanted to do with the image, was to try some drastic measures to see what is wrong on your system. (Like running Norton's best program - their removal tool ) Then if you do not like any of the changes, or it is too drastic and your system crashes, you can just restore your system to the way it was before, and then try some other things. It is actually quite easy if you keep your licence numbers (it takes me under 2 hours to install everything from scratch). I actually think now, after our previous discussion, that it might be a better idea to do an image immediately after a clean install with all your favorite programs, and then, instead of doing a fresh install each time, just put the image back. That way you would not have to re-input all your serials each time (but you will have to the first time, though). And also, you do not really want to put ALL your programs back, only the ones you regularly uses. Sometimes you install programs that you use only once or twice and the never again, but it stay on your system (and uses its memory) for years thereafter. Even if you uninstall some programs, remnants still remains sometimes that slows down your PC. A fresh install will get rid of all that.

No you did not!. The first line in the first post on the first page says. There you would have learned that the first three pages you should have read is READ-ME-FIRST Guide by CarterinCanada FGA After reading those 3 pages, and you are still unsure about anything, feel free to post

Thanks Kels, you just saved me the trouble going there. Edit: For those who wondered what happened: iaconelli12 disappeared after making some threats

Hi Lewis, Good to hear you managed to recover your photos Just for the record, Neither freezing, nor PCB swap is recommended (or will work) for the BSY bug. Either of the two could damage your drive beyond repair Anyway, glad all ended well

Hi karas667 On the top of all the pages in this section, you will find the following quote: The READ-ME-FIRST should guide you as to not have to read all the many pages, but only the relevant ones. There you will find a link to the guide by CarterinCanada and the FGA. After you have read those three documents, and still have questions, you are more than welcome to ask SPECIFIC questions. But don't you think to ask for the whole procedure is a bit much?

jaclaz is the resident expert on hdd's so I will go with his recommendation. He said their is a small chance that the reset might work, so it might be worth a try (especially if you do not plan to send it for data-recovering). Then you've got nothing to lose (except maybe 10 bucks for the converter and a bit of time). Is it a loud clicking sound (as if something internally is breaking) then I don't think it will work. If it is just a soft click, it might work and will be worth a try. Yes. You basic follow the same converter set-up as with the 7200.11, but then follow the method linked to earlier from there on. Make VERY sure you correctly identify the points. No. There are no other methods I know of. (even this one might not work if your problem is something else.)