BlouBul

There is usually a usable orange cable in one of the wires coming from your PSU. Otherwise try the red one (don't tell jaclaz). It might work if you are lucky (where the orange one will definitely work). If it doesn't work, try to make plan with the orange one.

Remember to use the 3.3 V (Orange) wire. If that still doesn't work, see if anything in FGA #4 helps.

If you get loopback without connecting to the hdd, Tx and Rx must touch somewhere. Make sure all connections are well insulated and not touching each other.

You're welcome Not sure if that connector will work (there are no sizes on link. I just used an audio cable like you have, broke off the hard plastic at the ends and fiddled with pliers and other tools to get the hole the same size as the pins for a tight fit. Then wrap it with insulation tape to prevent the connectors touching each other. Another method is the wire wrap method jaclaz mentioned on the previous page. Thanks Hopefully we will get three SA teams in the playoffs.

I'm not so surely convinced of that. Check your previous link of the "wrong" adapter, there are only 5V there (you might need a bigger screen, stronger spectacles and younger eyes for that, but it is there, I can just barely make it out on my 20" screen) http://www.tronisoft...rod.php?id=4202 In other words:

Look again (or maybe invest in a bigger screen) In the bottom right of the photo (opposite side from the infamous 4205) there are a couple of pins marked U2 and U3. Underneath it you will see U2 is 5V and U3 is 3.3V.

I was trying to say that his adapter is marked as 3.3 V AND 5V in his photo, thus it is the "right" adapter. Sometimes I have the feeling that noone actually READs what I write...

The adapter seems to be able to do either 5V or 3.3V, so it should work. The jumper appears to short out Rx and Tx, thus testing Loopback, Remove when connecting to your hdd. The Nokia cable is used instead of the converter, so you do need to worry about that as you already have a converter. The audio cable will work as connection, otherwise try the method jaclaz suggested.

Hi parallap, Don't know if you are till waiting for an answer.., but don't worry, just power down and redo the procedure. See here http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128807&view=findpost&p=946795

That sounds like is a good way if you have that specific PCB AND the problem is the PCB and NOT BSY or 0LBA. From your link:

The symptoms resembles 0LBA and NOT a blown diode. Most probably...

Read it again (as dencorso suggested) Sounds like a classic case of BSY. Yes (or brick if you prefer)... Until you use the procedure to unbrick it off course...

NO.That is a 5400 RPM drive and NOT a 7200.11. That method is designed for another type of drive. Try at your own risk Better to do as Tripredacus suggested.

Yes, the known unknowns are always better than the unknown unknowns http://en.wikipedia....re_known_knowns

It does, you just have to open it carefully and not leave any evidence. http://fiddlings.wordpress.com/2009/08/05/disassembling-a-seagate-free-agent-desk-1tb/ Anyway, I do not think it will come to that. The problem is probably with his computer's USB ports.

Yes, that might explain why both your USB modem and USB HDD and USB flash suddenly does not work. So try a reboot first, otherwise try it in a different computer and if it still doesn't work try it directly in your computer's SATA connection. True

Thanks for the clarification Just thought (or rather hoped) we might have a confirmed case of someone who managed to unbrick a 7200.10, but seems like we have to wait a bit longer.

OK, so you just tested it with an unbricked 7200.10 to see if you can communicate with the hdd before you actually used it to unbrick the 7200.11?

Hi bryeds, Glad you managed to fix it People normally battle to unbrick the 7200.10 drives. Can you please give a detailed description here for people who has this problem in future. Thanks.

Bricks are known in some cases to still have a heartbeat Try some open heart disk surgery (with this fix) to revive it.

Bricked HDD does not always make sounds when you put power on (they sometimes just behave like a typical brick ). Try the whole procedure carefully again. Did you try the suggestions in the FGA # 4?

No/Yes/No for the three parts of your one hypothetical question. If you only have a 0 LBA error (which you do NOT have), you do not have to take the whole segeant apart (meaning you can leave the PC board on as it is not in a locked state), but you still have to hook up all the wires to get communication. No, you do not. Start a new thread as jaclaz suggested. Also see if anything here helps http://www.msfn.org/...post__p__944270 and http://www.msfn.org/...post__p__944571

Maybe (if you are VERY lucky). (and I think they probably meant it was filled with 1's, not 7's) Start a new thread and we will see if someone can help.

I'm afraid I am not the bearer of good news... http://forum.ixbt.co...?id=11:39316-59 The second part of the 4th post is a bit more understandable & quoted above (or use Google Translate ) Confirmed here http://forum.hddguru...0mb-t13256.html