VideoRipper

@sons: if your drive was working normally before the BSY/LBA0-problem occured, I find it highly unlikely, the drive motor suddenly stopped working while unbricking it... But... anything is possible, of course. If you carefully tap the side of the drive with the handle-end of a screwdriver while trying to spin up the drive-motor again, does it sound like it's spinning or is it still making all kinds of unhealthy noises? @hurn: of course I can't be sure about this (since I got my drive working at the first try), but I guess that either the contacts of the motor or those of the actuator don't touch the PCB properly... Are they bent perhaps, or maybe they're dirty? Normally it should only take about 5 to 10 seconds for the motor to spin up again, not almost 2 minutes: Does it sound like it's spinning or is it staying dead silent? Otherwise, it *could* mean the PCB is defective... Greetz, Peter.

Just try and find out MS Word certainly supports RTF (Rich Text Format) -files and it wouldn't surprise me if OpenOffice does as well

I use Win98SE on an old Geode C3 based thin-client for some low level stuff (so I don't have to use special direct-port access drivers) It is also 100% free of moving parts (running off a 2GB Compact Flash)

I'm afraid so (but I can't say for sure of course) You *could* try the following (untested and at your own risk): Remove PCB from drive or insulate the contacts to the actuator/motor again Apply power to PCB Type: CTRL+Z which should give you the "F3 T>"-prompt Type: "/2" to get to level 2 (prompt gives: "F3 2>") Type: "Z" to "spin down" the motor Reseat the PCB back to the drive (or remove the insulation) Type: "U" to spin up the motor again (you should hear it spinning up) Type: "/1" to go to level 1 (prompt shows: "F3 1>") Type: "m0,2,2,,,,,22" (and hope for the best...) WAIT until you see a message like: If you get an error-message or the drive is "Beep-beep-beep"-ing again, it apparently didn't work and the drive is f****d up (Or someone might have other suggestions?) Above commands need to be entered without the "Quotes" of course. Good luck, Peter.

Don't worry, I've got all sorts of problems with MSFN since they've upgraded the forum. Just press the "Edit"-button twice and you'll get there Greetz, Peter.

Also make sure the on-board audio device is enabled in the BIOS

Amen to that We should make a sticky of this thread... oh wait, it already is!

No, you just go the website of the motherboard's manuafacturer, go to their "Support" and/or "Download"-section and find the installer-package for your motherboard (which most of the time is just an executable). You then run the installer, do a reboot and that should be it (more or less) For the Dell 380, you should have a look at this page. Greetz, Peter.

Congratulations Eaglemania! Another bad drive can be scrapped from the list Now: Backup (the most important files on) the drive Check the drive with SeaTools for DOS (do a Short- and Long-DST) If it comes with any error test-code, return the drive under warranty Greetz, Peter.

Just another suggestion (which appeared on the previous page) is that not all CA-42 cables are created equal. It seems that some (non-Nokia) cables only work good upto 9600 Baud, while you'll need 38400 Baud to unbrick your drive. You can test by shorting the TX- and RX-leads of the cable and performing a loop- back test: First make sure your cable is plugged in and can be selected Connect the TX- and RX-leads to each other, creating a loopback Open HyperTerminal, select the CA-42 and use 9600 Baud for the speed Type some characters on your keyboard: they should be echood back on the screen Now close the connection, select the connection-properties and set the connection-speed a bit higher: 19200 Baud Again: type some characters and see if they get echood back exactly on the screen as you type them If it does: go back to step 5, but now select 38400 Baud and check the output given when typing on your keyboard If it doesn't: you'll have to get yourself another (type of) cable Also (another tip): make sure you disconnect first before removing the cable from the USB-port or the COM-port stays in an open state and can only be reset by restarting your computer. Greetz, Peter.

I assume he read the values from the dialog, that said something like: Connected to <Name Of Access-point> at 65Mbps

You should fix your keyboard first A good weekend to you too

It looks like R67 on that PCB is a 0 Ohm resistor, apparently doubling as some sort of fuse in this design (that's probably why it was blown up on that other PCB) The description on D3 is AE83A (if I see correctly) and is probably a Schottky diode to enable the use of the "Staggered spinup"/"Activity"-pin on the SATA-power connector, which on most systems isn't even used (although I can't seem to find its datasheet at the moment). I don't think replacing these two parts will get the drive working again; if you wish you could even fix a workaround by forcing the "Staggered spinup"-piece of the schematic to ground (I guess). But it's hard to tell without having the PCB (or its schematics) in my own hands, so I'm also guessing, just like Jaclaz does Good luck, Peter,

Ewww nasty It sounds like your drive is suffering from "The click of death"

You don't actually have to update the drive's firmware to enable access to it again. Although I can't substantiate this, I think it's *relatively* safe to perform a SMART-erase (level 1> N1), followed by a partition regeneration (level T> m0,2,2,,,,,22). This *in theory* would unlock your drive from its BSY-state. A firmware update is only necessairy to prevent this same thing happening again in the future, after 320 log-entries (though you should try to get rid of the drive if possible). But maybe jaclaz (or someone else) can eleborate on this? So before you do anything, wait until someone else comes along (or just do it if you're bold enough) Greetz, Peter.

Sorry... I forgot to mention those two, but you're absolutely right!

Hi CD I'm amazed how you're trying to repair all kinds of HDD-PCB, without (by the looks of it) having any electronics background. Don't get me wrong, I always support (other) hobbyist, but I wonder whether you would be able to fix it, if you don't even know that mentioned parts are an SMD resistor and diode. Because of the images being out of focus, it's impossible to see what the exact values are that are needed, but you can get both parts easilly at any electronics (web) parts-store, like Farnell, DigiKey, Conrad and many others. Apart from that, you always have to ask yourself: how did a certain part blew up itself? Electronic parts never blow up without a reason (like, for instance, wear and tear), so there are great chances that when you replace a part, it will blow out again as soon as you apply power to the repaired device in question. ...AND: those SMD components are visibly defective: you'll never know what else has been blown up (internally) that doesn't show Also, don't forget most of the time it's not worth the time and money to repair something nowadays, unless it's something of high value or, in this case, valuable data has to be recovered from a drive. Just my 2 €-cents. Greetz, Peter. PS... and thanks to Tripredacus for closing that dupe topic while I was replying

In that case it looks like there's something terribly wrong with the drive If you know your way in electronics (and harddisk-commands), you can try to experiment with things like playing with the tables inside the drive (just like the BSY/LBA0 tricks in that other thread); my guess is that you can consider your drive (and its data) as lost. BTW. Your drive isn't making some weird clicking sound (rrrrr-tick...rrrr-tick), is it? Greetz, Peter.

Sorry for the misunderstanding: I meant that (depending on the problem) you should use low-level SATA-access or diagnostics-port access (which is very low level) You *could* try SeaTools for Windows first (this does a higher-level diagnostics test for the hardware). If that doesn't give you any insight of the real problem, you can go to a lower level by using SeaTools for DOS (runs from a self-bootable CD-R). Once you're able to fully access the drive "The normal way", you can try to use (higher- level) data-recovery software; since Windows NT (2000, XP, Vista, 7) doesn't offer real low level access to hardware (without special drivers), this will most likely be Linux or DOS-based software. Sorry... I can't recommend any software package, since I'm not familiar with your problem in particular; first get the drive running again (probably using the diagnostics port), then you can try to salvage your data. Greetz, Peter.

Not really evidence, but thanks Jaclaz My theory was that you can find out the correct needed TTL-level by measuring the levels on the TX-line of the drive (with an oscilloscope, a multimeter would be too slow); if it sends you 3.3V it must expect 3.3V as well. Ah well... in my experience 5V TTL works just as well and it helped me out Greetz, Peter.

It's a known firmware issue, so you will get the same problems after another 320 log entries if you stick to the SD15 firmware. I think you should get rid of the drive, if possible: Backup the drive (at least the most important stuff) Download and burn SeaTools for DOS to a CD-R Reboot your PC from the CD-ROM (with the drive attached) Do a short- and a long-DST test --------------- SeaTools for DOS v2.17 --------------- Device 0 is Seagate Device ST3500320AS 9QM22HVN On Intel ICH5 Max Native Address 976773167 Device is 48 Bit Addressed - Number of LBAs 976773167 ( 500.108 GB ) This drive supports Security Features SMART Is Supported And ENABLED SMART Has NOT Been Tripped DST Is Supported Logging Feature Set Is Supported POH 5994 Current Temp 23 Started Short DST 2/12/2010 @ 11:37.4 DST -- FAILED - Read Element LBA = 0 Your SeaTools Test Code: A7E7D56A Short DST FAILED 2/12/2010 @ 11:37.16 When you get an error-code like above (A7E7D56A), write it down and create an RMA at Seagate to have it swapped using the error-code. If you don't get an error-code (which I doubt) and you want to keep on using the drive, do the firmware update. ...but I do think you *should* swap it either way... Greetz, Peter.

I'm afraid you're having some sort of hardware (or firmware of the hardware) problem; there's no (low level) Windows based utility that can help you with that You'll have to use low level tools (either over SATA or over the diagnostic interface) to regain access again and transfer as much as you can. At least... that's my 2 €-cents worth

The voltage levels *shouldn't* be a problem; I resurrected my drive with a standard MAX232 (=5V TTL) driver and it worked as planned. (BTW: I don't know who proved that one needs a 3.3V TTL driver; I don't have an oscilloscope anymore to check that statement myself...) Greetz, Peter.

In the past (although I can't remember what version of Windows it was) I could get things working again by re-installing the motherboard's chipset drivers. Greetz, Peter.

Indeed, information is very sparse about the commands This is what the manual says: Does the board react (do you get the debug prompt back) when you press CTR+Z again? (I know... it's just a wild guess...)