drgonzo7 Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 Just in case anyone else is trying to fix their ES.2 Seagate drives, there is a thread here which explains how to do it, as these drives work in a slightly different way to 7200.11 drives:http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/129551-unlocking-terminal-of-seagate-es2-in-bsyled000000cc-state/I spent many frustrated hours trying to get the methods in this thread to work on my ES.2 drive only to discover that they don't work! My method for getting to the 'F3 T>' prompt is here, which doesn't involve trying to short two pins! Took me a few goes to get the timing right, but got there in the end, and my drive is back from the dead! Thanks to all those who have contributed to this thread, saved me a very expensive trip to a recovery centre (I ended up using the Nokia CA42 cable hack)It can be useful for owners of: ST3250310NS, ST3500320NS, ST3750330NS, ST31000340NS CheersDamian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sovereign01 Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 (edited) Well, this is looking promising F3 T>/2F3 2>ZSpin Down CompleteElapsed Time 0.146 msecsF3 2>USpin Up CompleteElapsed Time 7.524 secsF3 2>/1F3 1>N1F3 1>/TF3 T>F3 T>i4,1,22F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22Max Wr Retries = 00, Max Rd Retries = 00, Max ECC T-Level = 14, Max Certify Rewrite Retries = 00C8User Partition Format 4% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00004339, ErrCode 000User Partition Format 4% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00008DED, ErrCode 00000080, Elapsed Time 0 mins 10 secsUser Partition Format Successful - Elapsed Time 0 mins 10 secsF3 T>Now to mount this in my PC and hope for the best B)Had a 2nd drive that I did the same with:F3 T>/2F3 2>USpin Up CompleteElapsed Time 9.833 secsF3 2>/1F3 1>N1F3 1>/TF3 T>F3 T>i4,1,22F3 T>m0,2,2,,,,,22Max Wr Retries = 00, Max Rd Retries = 00, Max ECC T-Level = 14, Max Certify Rewrite Retries = 00C8User Partition Format 5% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00004339, ErrCode 000User Partition Format 5% complete, Zone 00, Pass 00, LBA 00008DED, ErrCode 00000080, Elapsed Time 0 mins 10 secsUser Partition Format Successful - Elapsed Time 0 mins 10 secsF3 T> Edited March 29, 2010 by Sovereign01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seloqxt Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 (edited) Consider going through the procedure again.Seagate Drive : ST3500320AS , Firmware : SD15Problem: BSYMy 500GB HDD initially had BSY problem. I successfully completed the steps till the point where I have to type "N1" for a SMART erase. But it just hangs there when I enter N1. The cursor keeps blinking and the next prompt doesn't appear, I kept waiting for 20 mins but still the same. What might be wrong?After this, I tried connecting back the hdd with sata cable to check if it works. This time it is recognized in BIOS, but doesn't show up in My Computer. Opening Device Manager>Disk Management pops up a window as seen in the snap below:Direct Image LinkWhen I press OK, it pops up a Dialog Box saying "Incorrect Function".Later I tried patching up the firmware update from seagate. Even though the drive detect software from seagate doesn't recognize the HDD, however running the firmware patch during start up detects it, and Says: "Model Matched, Firmware not matched" even though the patch is the correct one: http://seagate.custkb.com/seagate/crm/selfservice/news.jsp?DocId=207951Yes, I tried the whole process of BSY fix by inserting card spinning down removing card and spinning up HDD etc around 10 times, but every time in the next step where I press N1 at F3 1> prompt, it just halts there with blinking cursor, the next prompt doesn't appear. I've tried searching about this SMART erase with N1 command, but unfortunately not much information is available. Any clue to what might be wrong? Thanks. Edited March 29, 2010 by seloqxt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VideoRipper Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 I've tried searching about this SMART erase with N1 command, but unfortunately not much information is available.Indeed, information is very sparse about the commands This is what the manual says:Nxx SMART Serial Port Controlxx – Level 1 N Subcommand= 1 – Create Smart Sector.= 2 – Update SMART Attributes ( same as SMART D3h option in interface )= 3 – Do Smart Firmware Upgrade= 5 – Dump SMART attribute data= 6 – Dump SMART threshold data= 7 – Dump G-List= 8 – Dump Critical Event Log= 9 – Dump P-List= A – Dump two hour Health Log= B – Run DST Short Test= C – Run DST Long TestDoes the board react (do you get the debug prompt back) when you press CTR+Z again?^Z Restart the Diagnostic Monitor.(I know... it's just a wild guess...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mundy5 Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 (edited) Yes, I tried the whole process of BSY fix by inserting card spinning down removing card and spinning up HDD etc around 10 times, but every time in the next step where I press N1 at F3 1> prompt, it just halts there with blinking cursor, the next prompt doesn't appear. I've tried searching about this SMART erase with N1 command, but unfortunately not much information is available. Any clue to what might be wrong? Thanks.If it isn't working even though you have gone through the procedure exactly as it is listed here, then the only conclusion I can come up with is that you have a different issue or more issues than just the bsy problem listed here. Edited March 29, 2010 by mundy5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigleg Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 (edited) but I still get the "Unable to Open COM2.That worries me a bit Normally, a COM-port is only opened when an application (like HyperTerminal) or a service(like MS ActiveSync or the Nokia Suite) is actively using it; if you would only installthe drivers without any program (or service) using it, you *should* be able to open thatport like any other ("real") COM-port, no matter where the USB-device was made...Are you sure it's using COM2, since with most desktops, these are already integrated ontothe motherboard and any external attached (USB)-ports get additional numbers (COM3..COMxx).Please check the settings in the computer's BIOS whether any on-board COM-ports are enabledor not and play with these settings.Good luck,Peter.It was the wrong type of CA-42 cable. Got another one and it opens correctly in HyperTerm. At first, connecting the blue and red wires gave me the characters I was typing (looking good!), but now for some reason, I get gibberish at 38400 baud and higher. 19200 baud and lower, it's fine. Ugh, time for another cable?Does anyone know how to figure out which wires are which using a multimeter? Is it possible that connecting the wrong wires together during testing screwed up the cable?Is anyone out there willing to send me a cable they know works? I'll happily pay for shipping both ways. Edited March 30, 2010 by bigleg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaclaz Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 It was the wrong type of CA-42 cable. Got another one and it opens correctly in HyperTerm. At first, connecting the blue and red wires gave me the characters I was typing (looking good!), but now for some reason, I get gibberish at 38400 baud and higher. 19200 baud and lower, it's fine. Ugh, time for another cable?Yes.Does anyone know how to figure out which wires are which using a multimeter? Is it possible that connecting the wrong wires together during testing screwed up the cable?No.JFYI, about the foolishness of using CA-42 cables:(you can use SOME hammers to open a can, but not ALL hammers will do and anyway usually can-openers work better)The CATCH22 is:if you know how to check if a Nokia cable is a good one, you don't need one, and you can either build an interface yourself or are wise enough to buy a proper interface.jaclaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seloqxt Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 Does the board react (do you get the debug prompt back) when you press CTR+Z again?No, I don't get the debug prompt back after the hangup, I have to disconnect the terminal and back in to make Ctrl+z work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeemi Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 (edited) Hey Guys,my drive isn't detected by the bios anymore.And i still have this. (Only the adapter/cable at "Accessories").Aurel Rs232-TTLWill this work? Sorry for not having any better datasheet.Greetings, Zeemi Edited March 30, 2010 by Zeemi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaclaz Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 Hey Guys,my drive isn't detected by the bios anymore.And i still have this. (Only the adapter/cable at "Accessories").Aurel Rs232-TTLWill this work? Sorry for not having any better datasheet.Greetings, ZeemiNO , I don't think it will work.That module has 0-5V TTL levels (TTL-CMOS):http://www.aurelwireless.com/downloads/manuali-uso/650200625G_mu.pdfYou want one with 3.3v TTL levels (TTL), reference:http://www.interfacebus.com/voltage_threshold.htmljaclaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VideoRipper Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 (edited) The voltage levels *shouldn't* be a problem; I resurrected my drive witha standard MAX232 (=5V TTL) driver and it worked as planned.(BTW: I don't know who proved that one needs a 3.3V TTL driver; I don'thave an oscilloscope anymore to check that statement myself...) Greetz,Peter. Edited March 30, 2010 by VideoRipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sovereign01 Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 Well, looks like it works, thanks guys! Quick question- does this prevent the issue recurring with the fixed drives, or do they still need the firmware 'update' from Seagate, or should I just copy the data off and get rid of the entire drive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VideoRipper Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 (edited) It's a known firmware issue, so you will get the same problems after another320 log entries if you stick to the SD15 firmware. I think you should get rid of the drive, if possible:Backup the drive (at least the most important stuff)Download and burn SeaTools for DOS to a CD-RReboot your PC from the CD-ROM (with the drive attached)Do a short- and a long-DST test--------------- SeaTools for DOS v2.17 ---------------Device 0 is Seagate Device ST3500320AS 9QM22HVN On Intel ICH5Max Native Address 976773167Device is 48 Bit Addressed - Number of LBAs 976773167 ( 500.108 GB )This drive supports Security FeaturesSMART Is Supported And ENABLEDSMART Has NOT Been TrippedDST Is SupportedLogging Feature Set Is SupportedPOH 5994 Current Temp 23Started Short DST 2/12/2010 @ 11:37.4DST -- FAILED - Read Element LBA = 0Your SeaTools Test Code: A7E7D56AShort DST FAILED 2/12/2010 @ 11:37.16When you get an error-code like above (A7E7D56A), write it down and create an RMA at Seagate to have it swapped using the error-code.If you don't get an error-code (which I doubt) and you want to keep onusing the drive, do the firmware update....but I do think you *should* swap it either way...Greetz,Peter. Edited March 30, 2010 by VideoRipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaclaz Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 (edited) (BTW: I don't know who proved that one needs a 3.3V TTL driver; I don'tNow you know:http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=128807&st=2338The point is that, even if the interface "understands" TTL/CMOS (which I doubt), a 3.3V will work anyway, whilst a 4.8V will be understood as a "suffusion of yellow".I don't think anyone has actually documented the EXACT signals level the HD actually "understands", though.jaclaz Edited March 30, 2010 by jaclaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VideoRipper Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 Not really evidence, but thanks Jaclaz My theory was that you can find out the correct needed TTL-level by measuringthe levels on the TX-line of the drive (with an oscilloscope, a multimeter wouldbe too slow); if it sends you 3.3V it must expect 3.3V as well.Ah well... in my experience 5V TTL works just as well and it helped me out Greetz,Peter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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