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True that the downside of the Divx Converter is that you have to pay it. But the DVD Players cannot play Xvid correct?

About the MPEG, I couldn't notice any difference between MPEG 4 and 2. Same Bit rate, same resolution, same frames and quality (highest), other than on my TV Tuner Player MPEG 4 is playing on a corner and about 40% of the screen is black. And sometimes it freezes, so I could sya Mpeg 2 is more reliable. My other small problem is that if I try to record in AVI format and I set the frames at 25, it still records at 29.97 and the image goes faster than the sound, so teoreticaly I can't record in AVI format either if I don't want my sound delayed. I didn't tried yet to change the frames for the MPEG and see if MPEG still keeps the frames at 25. I will look into all those Kamil, didn't heard about some of them and I am not experienced in video either. Just for curiousity, once people encode it into Divx, why don't they just let it to .divx and everybody convert back to .avi?

My TV Tuner if I set it to AVI capture format is doing the raw avi. Took me 1.5 GB for 1 minute. 150 GB for 22 minute was a bit exagerated sorry. Other than AVI I have MPEG 1 2 and 4. And if I rename the .divx to .avi will that be playable on my DVD-Player by chance? Or maybe I would have to test it by myself

I have seen that almost all the video files are under .avi format. I am certain that they have been encoded with Divx let's say to reduce a 22 minute episode 150 GB from pure avi to 300 mb. I have downloaded the Divx Converter and converted it, and it is now .divx How does those people that encode their videos still keep their .avi extension and the files are not reciving the .divx extension? Never seen a file with .divx extension anyway so I supose I am doing something rong? I have tried to encode a .mpg file and I get the same .dvix extension. I am also interested in making these files readable by the DVD-Players. I know that the encoded .avi file I got from an episode was readable on my DVD-Player. But agian, I have no idea how to encode it while remaining .avi.

I only have a codec available for MPEG 4. Microsoft V1 V2 V3 and Divx. And I did some tests, and it comes out that MPEG 2 would be the best quality. For AVI there is no other options and as I said, for 1 minute it takes 1.5 GB... Also, is the DivX the best encoder when it comes to quality and size? Another problem would be that if I record in MPEG 2 and I play it with Media Player Classic, I cannot change the timeline. If I do, the image will freeze and sometimes only the sound is starting where the timeline is.

Hey there, I just got a TV Tunner, and I see all these options here and I kinda don't have any idea what to chose. I don't know exactly what would the bit rate for the MPEG and DVD (PAL/NTSC) format would do. If I would record with MPEG format, which should I chose for the highest quality, MPEG 1 2 or 4? Also for 1 minute it ususaly takes 30 MB's for these 2 (MPEG and DVD). If I chose .avi, it goes over 1.5 GB. Yet all the movies I see over the internet are .avi format, and a 22 minute episode for example would take around 250bm's. What kind of econder should I use for my .avi to reduce the size to that? Even if I record in MPEG or DVD, a 20 minute recording is taking around 600mb, and not the 250 mb's I usualy saw for the episode i recorded. I am very newbish in this area as I just started. Thank you

Hello again. I have now a P4 3Ghz, 2gb ram, Radeon 9600 Series with a dual bios motherboard running on Windows Media Center. It's not mine, but I did formatted it again, I tweaked it a little bit (very few programs are starting up by themself at restart, tweaked them from msconfig) and I have the following problem: It's too slow!! In windows when scrolling or sometimes when writing it goes slow motion for a couple of seconds, when I play EVE Online I got less FPS than with my other computer 4-5 years old (1600+ XP, 512 ram, Nvidia Ti4400, Windows XP), it freezes, etc. Effectevely something is not right, it should be flying. There is plenty available memory in performances, low CPU usage (it's not reaching 100% in these situations), so these could not be the problem. I have installed the catalyst drives for the ATI card. Can't think of a problem excepting maybe the graphic card (never worked with ATI) or this Windows Media Center edition. Could it even be hardware problem? or Bios setting? If anyone could help me tweak this computer would be highly appriciated.

Cheers mate, thank you for the information

Thank you for the adress. Still can anyone enlight me what DVI-I and DVI-D mean?

Excelent information guys, the help provided here is realy appriciated, and helped me to a better decission than the previous I wanted.

Excelent information Zxian. What would be the transfer rate for a 5400 RPM if for 4200 is 25mb/s? For a USB 2.0 I think the transfer rate is 50 or 60 mb/s if I am not mistaken anyway. I do not know tho what continous file acces would affect. Are there actualy any programs that would use and require more than 25-40 mb/s transfer rate if you would acces and utilize them directly from the HDD storage device?

Doh, i'm stupid, totaly forgot about the power you plug in your HDD from your power source. Now, for a portable HDD which I will use to carry data wherever I go, do I need it to be a high RPM? or it's irelevant for transfering data? how about the seek time and Buffer?. I will defenetly not use it to play games from it, but maybe watching a movie? the laptop HDD's don't have more than 5400 RPM anyway. I don't know, I realy didn't worked on the technical terms

I have this footage, but I would like to select a frame from it, and extend that frame so it can just say there while I want to play a short music while that frame stay like that. How do I take a snapshot from the footage and have it separated for editing? Later EDIT: Ok I think I managed, I will just "hold frame - in point" and copy it... but now I need to add a zoom effect. Zoom in- zoom out- zoom in- zoom out, etc very fast. I would have done it by motion and scale it up and down, but I cannot add points, it seems it might be a global function for the hole footage section. How can I add zoom in and outs from the footage.

The samsunb 204T has 16ms reponse time so it's not good for gaming 960BF is nice since it has 4ms and better, eit's Grey to Grey Anyway, if you did payd only 319$ for it then it's a great deal. Do they also ship in Canada? I would be interested to buy from them But their website leave to desire

Is this "Sam's Club" near Canada border? At the time being, in Seattle? About everything auto-adjusting in that Samsung... Can't that be a drawback? what if you don't like that "auto" and you want to trim it yourself?

And that would cost what? 4 times more than a 500GB HDD? Anyway LLXX, I was just giving a worst case scenario, I moved twice now and everytime I dezasambled my computer and placed it into a hand bagage and kept it in plane But that is what I wanted to know. If they are no longer in any danger from non-violent shock and I could nicely put them in my hand bagage is good. Now 2 more things that I am still uncertain. Are you saying that this type of HDD requires an additional power source (adaptor) to operate? Would a internal HDD placed in a external case would operate with only the power the computer provides through USB or Fireware no matter it's size in GB? (well, I supose so since you don't plug an aditional power cord inside your computer to power it but I just want to be 100% sure) Thank you all

Good reponses... I seen a review about the Acer and the guy said he had no problem with his. Well, and since people said about Samsunb, I checked out and camed out with this? Tho it's 50% more expensive, and I am not one of those people that can throw money. Anyway I seen that the input connectors can be quite a factor so here I ask about the 2 monitors: (can be found also on the specs they provide on this shop site) And oh yea, I am from Canada, so as far as I seen, there are not "performant" monitors around my shops, and everything is **** ridiculous expensive (500$ for a monitor with weaker specs than these 2, and this is only from the small details they offer). Acer: Signal Input Input Video Signal Analog RGB DVI-D Sync Type Separate H/V Composite H/V Sync on Green Input Connectors 1 x 15 pin D-Sub 1 x DVI-D Samsung: Signal Input Input Video Signal VGA (15 pin D-Sub) DVI-D Input Connectors 1 x VGA - 15 pin HD D-Sub (HD-15) WHat is this difference between DVI-D and DVI-I especially? This was the problem the guy from the review was reffering at, saying that the newer cards got DVI-D. I am totally non-knowledgeble about this sort, and at the moment I got a Gf4 Ti4400 (will prob upgrade soon). Will I have problems?

Hello I would like to buy my first LCD, but unfortunately I am not that expert in monitors, and don't realy know where to look for performance and viability like I do for the other hardware. Anyway, right now I have a CRT, and as I understood, the CRT give much more stress to the eye than an LCD, since they are on crystals. I do not know the exact difference between the CRT HZ (refresh rate) and LCD (I don't see any HZ for them, but I uderstood that a potential equivalent is the response time?) Anyway, I would like to know which is a good brand first of all. From what I heard Acer is one of them? I seen this LCD from Acer, and from what I know it seems pretty good? I know that the Response time can be of 2 types? Black to white and Grey to Grey? And if the response time is low on Grey to Grey that would mean the LCD is even better than another monitor that has the same response time but on Black to White? Is it correct that as higher the Contrast Rate is, the better it is? Pixel Pitch, I do not know which one is better, higher or lower? What about brightness? So many questions, please if you can reponde at least to some of them I would highly appriciate it. Thank you

Hey guys. How can I see who are 3.5" or who are 2.5"? I mean for the external hard drive there is no details... And even the 3.5 internal, can they have power cords? Never seen an internal with one Also, you are sugesting I should take a normal internal drive and assemble it into an external case. What would be the advantage of this? lower price? I have also known that the internal drives are very... fragile... Meaning if you shake them they might loose data or break. This is just a rumor I heard a couple of years ago. I have no idea tho if there is any difference between the normal internal or external HDD when it comes to shock and vibration. I am saying this since as I said, If I will start traveling in planes, I might place it into the lougage that would be thrown into the bay of the airplane (and you all know that those guys just throw the bagages around). I never had Maxtor, but currently running a Western Digital 80 GB for over 3.5 years and its going perfect nice. Heck, I even have a Nikimi (never heard of them) of 40 GB for 4.5 yeras, tho it have been used as storage when I bought the WD.

For some time now I noticed I need a device to store data and transfer it. Because I will potentialy start traveling, I want to have the data with me. I thought at first of a flash memory of 2 gb's, that would be about 99$. Then I have seen another interesting thing. An external hard drive, having 200gb's for just double the price. Small enought to carry it into a small bag such as a camera type bag, and very interesting. I do not know if this will also run out the need of a DVD-RW device to burn movies, music or installers (kit's) on DVD's since I can just backup everything I need on this one piece and carry it around than to complicate myself with CD's. Now what I have seen is a Maxtor external hard drive. I know them and Western Digital are one of the best brands for HDD's, the difference for a normal HDD being that the Maxtor are noisy. I do not know the difference of this noise sound between the 2 brands for external hard drives tho. Also from what I have observed the Western Digitals are more expensive? Besides also I see that Maxtor got their 1 touch function for backup, tho I have no idea how it would work (maybe the same as other backup image programs such as Norton Ghost?) Now I have also looked at the Maxtor website and some shops, and what I have seen quite intriguies me... Why would at Maxtor it would cost more than on a different shop that sells the same units? Difference: shop vs Maxtor Other question would be, I see these have only 1 year warranty, is it because they are not reliable? I mean would they break at some point if for example they are shaken? Like carrying them into a suitcase that would be thrown into the cargo of a plane? Please throw me some advices or comments, as I would pretty much look forward to aquire these. Thanks

Bingo, that was it. Now if I select all the files the size will correspond to the size shown by properties. Thank you. Was worried there for a bit as thought the drive C might be a bit screwed up... (its pretty old) Thank you all for all the inputs and help provided. Cheers

The page file show 339 MB when the usage is still at 6.85. (performance, windows task manager).

I have checked my drive C: space and it says it have 6.85 GB used space. But if I select all the files inside drive C I get a total Size: 5.60 GB and Size on Disk: 5.49 GB. Where is the other 1GB+ usage on?

I use Bit Tornado for torrents and DC++ for p2p. It is a nice program, but bad it dosen't have reverse connection. I am tempted to try BitComet, but I wouldn't want to find out that something cause by the program screwed my windows that miraculously, hasn't been reinstalled for over 1 year. Bit Tornado is very simple, with no functions, but it's getting the job done