The scene was Elaine's Restaurant on Second Avenue in Manhattan on a crowded Saturday night. A stranger walked in from the street and pompously announced that, even with a blindfold on, he could identify any wine. The challenge was immediately accepted. A dark cloth was placed over his eyes and wine after wine was handed to him. "Lafite-Rothschild, 1958," he would announce. Or, "Bernkasteler Badstube, 1951." And he was always right. Finally, someone handed him a glass he couldn't identify. He sipped, and then he sipped again. Suddenly, he spat it out and pulled off the blindfold. "Hell, man! This is urine! Plain fresh urine!" "Yes," said a small voice in the background, "but whose?"