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Help for a semi-dead PC


JorgeA

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RoHS (just for the record) is IMNSHO one among the stupidest standards EVER made:

 

[...]

 

As I see it, it is a very good thing that "important" things are made with reliable, proven to be working fine, materials, but I completely fail to understand why my laptop actually *needs* (by Law) to be made with less reliable (and actually more costly) materials.

 

[rant]

What I'm going to say sounds like it would belong in "Deeper Impressions," but at the risk of digressing from the thread topic I have to comment that regulatory logic leads slowly but inexorably to the padded-cell society, where it's impossible for people to get hurt. At each stage there is a diminishing yet non-zero number of horror stories that can be used to rationalize placing the next clip on the straitjacket, until eventually everything that is not prohibited is required -- for our own good of course.

[/rant]

 

--JorgeA

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Wow, what a wealth of choices -- thanks, you all!

 

I eyeballed the old PSU and its shape is definitely the more squarish one, as opposed to the longer and narrower one by SeaSonic.

 

All the suggested models look appealing and they're all highly rated by customers, though I have to say that the Corsair with that $20 rebate is especially hard to resist.

 

As I write this I have just over a half-hour to qualify for that rebate...

 

--JorgeA

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I did!! :thumbup

 

There were some hoops to jump through to make sure I got the rebate, but I finally got to click on the Buy button about two minutes before the deadline.

 

Newegg already sent an e-mail to say that It's shipping later today.

 

Many thanks to puntoMX. :)

 

--JorgeA

 

P.S. The corresponding PSUs from the HP parts store list for well over US$100. :o  Seeing as that MSFN saved me quite a few pennies on this purchase, I should give a commission in the form of a donation. :yes:

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And now that the actual issue is solved :), let's talk of whiskers :yes: (tin ones :w00t:).

I would assume that people at NASA are not particularly interested in sponsoring old technologies :unsure:
http://nepp.nasa.gov/whisker/index.html

http://nepp.nasa.gov/whisker/reference/tech_papers/2011-NASA-GSFC-whisker-failure-app-sensor.pdf

and while my laptop may well represent a non-mission-critical item,  possibly the accelerator pedal sensors in my car might be thought as rather important :ph34r:.

Personally I would like NOT to be involved in a UA (Unintended Acceleration) event ... :whistle:

jaclaz

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That's why steel cables rock: they may rupture and they may jam (both events prevent one from acceletating), but they cannot actually accelerate despite of you, like sensors can (although when they do so, they actually become senseless sensors). :yes:

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That's why steel cables rock: they may rupture and they may jam (both events prevent one from acceletating), but they cannot actually accelerate despite of you, like sensors can (although when they do so, they actually become senseless sensors). :yes:

Well, there is always Murphy's Law hanging around, the cable may stick in the "full throttle" position while you drive on the highway and you will have issues when you want to low down/stop (say beacuse a car in front of you brakes), it wouldn't be a UA event but a CS (Cannnot Stop) one ;).

 

Still OT :ph34r:, one of the most curious cases of UA was on some old car models (never happened to me recently or heard of it lately, but it happened more than once in the good ol' days) with Diesel engines having a depressor pump for power steering/braking.

 

Basically you had this nice, self igniting Diesel engine running rather hot on an accurately dosed mix of air and diesel fuel, then, all of a sudden the depressor membrane broke and ALL the lubricating oil in the engine was sucked in the intake, becoming to all practical effects fuel and revving up the engine to the max.

 

You had to be quick in depressing the clutch, find a nearby wall or a ditch, and turn the engine off by "pushing" the car against it in 4th or 5th gear, as the engine would seize up in no time.

 

 

jaclaz

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The new PSU arrived this afternoon via United Parcel Service.

 

This is after Newegg said that with the free shipping it would take 3-7 business days.

 

Darned private business.  :)

 

It will actually take longer for me to test out this PSU than it did to arrive, as we have a full schedule of social activities this weekend.

 

--JorgeA

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If you don't have a power supply tester, you should be able to just hook up another PSU and see if it powers on. You might be able to do this by simply unplugging the current PSU from the board without removing any components... Although I do not know how that looks on the inside. When I do this, I also will unplug the HDDs from their power just so that if the PC does turn on, I can shut it off without having to worry about an OS being in mid-boot.

 

Now that the PSU has arrived and I have some time, let me ask about the above. Would I be unplugging the current PSU and plugging the new PSU into the places where I unplugged the old PSU -- but all of this without actually screwing the new PSU into place? That is, with the new PSU sitting somewhere outside the PC case?

 

I'm pretty sure that's what you indicated in post #8 above, but when it comes to mechanical stuff (and like driving directions), I have a special talent for misinterpreting instructions...

 

--JorgeA

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Yes. What we suggested was that.

More specifically, we suggested that you should plug connectors from the new PSU in place of all the connectors you unplug from de old PSU, except for the HDDs' connectors (which you should leave unconnected), so that, if the problem was really the PSU, then the computer will turn on, but will not boot, because the HDDs are not connected, so you can turn it off without having to wait for the boot to finish and then having to shut down the system. After you start the machine successfuly some two or three times, and let it stay on for a minute or two each time, to ensure the board is stable and all the fans are working, then you might consider performing the more tiresome work of actually removing the old PSU and replacing it by the new one for good.

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Oh and I forgot the most important thing when replacing a PSU. You will need some zip ties ...

 

Well, I guess it depends on local habits, we're much less formal here and I never actually needed one :unsure::

 

http://www.ohgizmo.com/2013/02/11/zip-tie-theres-no-need-for-knots-just-zip-it-up/

Zip-Tie1.jpeg

:lol:

 

jaclaz

Edited by jaclaz
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You will need some zip ties...

 

Zip ties?  dubbio.gif

 

You mean... tie wraps? :unsure:

 

For the definitive install, of course!

For the testing phase, not necessarily. If unavoidable, thrash bag ties (see pic below: what do you all call them?) will do fine, and then they can be reused.

 

EibFp.jpg

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