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Gradius2

The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

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Yay!!! Worked like a charm for the BSY problem!!! Very grateful to everyone on here for their hard work and support!

Just remember You can't use a sata to molex adapter to power the drive for this as it doesn't have the orange 3.3V line!!!!

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ViniciusFerrao

Try Hyperterminal>File>Properties>Options check Keys Windows (something like, I have non-english Hyperterminal).

hello, i tried this. i did the swap did the flash to sd1a but when i plug the old pcb back to the old drive it clicks and is not recognized...

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This works. this is the one I used.

Also, one of the drives I unbricked would not show the terminal until the card was placed to break the contacts with the Spindle motor.

I would turn the drive off, unscrew the 1 or two screws and place the card as shown in the tutorial, then power it up.

Does anyone know if this Schmartboard (P/N710-0001-01) will work as the RS232 TTL adapter ?

http://www.schmartboard.com/index.asp?page...lated&id=84

Tried connecting the Schmartboard on two different HD one working and one not working, and I see no output from hyperterminal.

Thanks

This is NOT a recommended method. It may have worked for the one guy here, but the logic behind it doesn't make sense.

ViniciusFerrao

Try Hyperterminal>File>Properties>Options check Keys Windows (something like, I have non-english Hyperterminal).

hello, i tried this. i did the swap did the flash to sd1a but when i plug the old pcb back to the old drive it clicks and is not recognized...

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Agreed, but I am "Old Skool"....

Spankerer: Where do you live?

Spankerer,

The serial port cable method is more reliable than the Usb cables, but the usb to ttl adapters will work.

The usb ones use software to pretend it is actually a serial port.

A serial port is a serial port.....no other pc port translation's to worry about.

It don't come much simpler than a good old fasioned serial port.

Kuala Lumpur. I'm gonna try hunting for some TTL adapters tomorrow, the RS232 to TTL is a rarity. But one thing we have tons of for cheap are cell phone data cables. ;)

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Awesome work Gradius2, can't wait to get everything I need to fix my ST3500320AS.

I have one question & it may be a dumb one, however...

Would a "TTL-232R Converter Cable" found here: http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/EvaluationKits/TTL-232R.htm bypass having to use most of the equipment you have suggested.

It can be powered via USB and if I can figure out what colour the TX and RX are I'd be set.

Of course this seems far to simple :blink:

There are also alternate cables on that link.

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Awesome work Gradius2, can't wait to get everything I need to fix my ST3500320AS.

I have one question & it may be a dumb one, however...

Would a "TTL-232R Converter Cable" found here: http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/EvaluationKits/TTL-232R.htm bypass having to use most of the equipment you have suggested.

It can be powered via USB and if I can figure out what colour the TX and RX are I'd be set.

Of course this seems far to simple :blink:

There are also alternate cables on that link.

It will works, the IC is inside the USB connector, choose TTL-232R 3V3 model.

Here is the IC, this is the PCB version:

http://www.ftdichip.com/Documents/DataShee...2R_PCB_V100.pdf

Edited by Gradius2

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This will work.

This will tell you which wires are which:

http://www.ftdichip.com/Documents/DataShee...CABLES_V201.pdf

Awesome work Gradius2, can't wait to get everything I need to fix my ST3500320AS.

I have one question & it may be a dumb one, however...

Would a "TTL-232R Converter Cable" found here: http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/EvaluationKits/TTL-232R.htm bypass having to use most of the equipment you have suggested.

It can be powered via USB and if I can figure out what colour the TX and RX are I'd be set.

Of course this seems far to simple :blink:

There are also alternate cables on that link.

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Looks like the TX and the RX are right beside each other so I'll cut away the rest of the connector and plug it straight into the hard drive.

I'll report back once I've done this.

1 cable that does the job with no soldiering will be an awesome alternative :D

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Looks like the TX and the RX are right beside each other so I'll cut away the rest of the connector and plug it straight into the hard drive.

I'll report back once I've done this.

1 cable that does the job with no soldiering will be an awesome alternative :D

Well, the soldering part is really a kiddy stuff (very easy), at least to me. :blushing:

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Looks like the TX and the RX are right beside each other so I'll cut away the rest of the connector and plug it straight into the hard drive.

I'll report back once I've done this.

1 cable that does the job with no soldiering will be an awesome alternative :D

Well, the soldering part is really a kiddy stuff (very easy), at least to me. :blushing:

Even with my rubbish soldiering I'm sure I could too but I like to keep it simple.

Again thanks for all the work you have done on this. My Hard Drive has been out of action for ages!

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Hello, after doing the good drive bad drive pcb switch. I successfully flashed the bad board on good drive to SD1A but after returning the now "good" board back to the bad disk it clicks 8 times on power up and stops. any ideas? did the drive get damaged?

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Hello, after doing the good drive bad drive pcb switch. I successfully flashed the bad board on good drive to SD1A but after returning the now "good" board back to the bad disk it clicks 8 times on power up and stops. any ideas? did the drive get damaged?

This is why I told to you guys, that method (swapping PCBs) is way too risky.

Well, if the drive is still recognized by BIOS, try to re-flash the "good" one, if even after that you get the same result, then yes, you killed the drive.

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Thanks Gradius2 and Fatlip I successfully fixed the BSY. The problem was I was using a molex to SATA to power up the drive. Once I switched over to the PSU SATA connector everything works.

-k

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Hello, after doing the good drive bad drive pcb switch. I successfully flashed the bad board on good drive to SD1A but after returning the now "good" board back to the bad disk it clicks 8 times on power up and stops. any ideas? did the drive get damaged?

Wow...i thought this would work for everybody else...but just in case, i can see some mistakes people could make though..

1. if you flash badpcb/gooddisk it should be the only hd in the computer, just in case your flashing the wrong hd ...haahahha :whistle:

2. your trying to flash the goodpcb/baddisk instead of the badpcb/gooddisk ...just remember your fixing the bad pcb.

3. you correctly flash the badpcb/gooddisk but do not swap it back to the original flavor badpcb/baddisk...

this is a good fix though, i am looking at all my files right now and coming from the busy issue before.

good luck

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Hello, after doing the good drive bad drive pcb switch. I successfully flashed the bad board on good drive to SD1A but after returning the now "good" board back to the bad disk it clicks 8 times on power up and stops. any ideas? did the drive get damaged?

Check serial numbers with seagate update utility and confirm if is equal.

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