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Glenn9999

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Everything posted by Glenn9999

  1. I looked for the latest AMD-branded K7 driver on their site and couldn't find it. Anyone have a link? The MS one(s) obviously hasn't been fixed because the registry change below is still a requirement for SP3. Also, there was a request for the largepageminimum registry change. Here it is: For those that don't know, you can double-click it and add it to the registry.
  2. Already done. Just updated the video drivers, and it worked very well from then on. Heh.
  3. As far as I'm aware in all the documentation I've seen in the past, EMM386 was never a protected-mode providing driver, so to speak. Usually, in anything to do with protected-mode, there's always an accompanying driver that the software is designed to work with. CWSDPMI is an example that was given, DOS4GW is another one. I've seen generic Dos Protected Mode Interface (DPMI) providing drivers (and I could probably look in my DOS stuff and see if I could find you one). EMM386 is not one (at least according to PKZIP/PKUNZIP 2.04g when I ran it). I think the confusion lies in this: EMM386 is a VCPI client . Basically put, VCPI is what enables programs to see all the memory as either EMS or XMS memory (unlike DOS 5.0 or so when the EMS driver tied up memory, etc). VCPI has nothing to do with protected-mode programs. If you don't use EMS memory, then you don't need VCPI, which means if you don't need EMS memory, then you don't load EMM386. To summarize: VCPI is not protected mode! All DOS4GW requires is a XMS memory provider. I've run many games which use that without EMM386. As was said, EMS works by swapping 64KB chunks of memory into the UMB. So #1: Your UMB handling needs to be through EMM386, and #2: You'll get maybe 30KB at the most aftewards - you either get the gobs of upper memory to load drivers, or EMS, not both. There's no way around both of these facts. (And I don't think you'll find anything different/better for an EMM386 driver. When I looked at OpenDOS last, it was using virtually the same EMS driver as MS-DOS) As was said, you'll want to use either UMBPCI.SYS or EMM386.EXE, not both. If both will load, one of them will be a waste in memory. Besides, you should be able to load the SB emulation driver without using much conventional memory, anyway. If you wish, I can look at my old configs and see what I did with my emulation driver load back in the 98 days - I didn't have a problem getting enough memory to run anything in DOS back in those days.
  4. Does anyone have any background in electrical work that could give me some advice on doing something? I need to try and get two or three outlets grounded in the simplest & cheapest way possible so they can work well with any surge protector/UPS that's out there. The obvious is to install 3-prong plugs and run ground wires, but is there anything that would be less involved that would work out equally well? Or if anyone knows a good site that they can point me to that talks about these matters and maybe will allow me to get enough knowledge in home electrical repair to be able to support my computer knowledge in terms of hardware?
  5. I got all the questions worked out on this thread.
  6. Many newer DOS era drivers (like your SB emulation drivers) will use XMS for part of their memory for processing either to stay out of conventional memory, or because they would use too much memory if it were in conventional/upper memory. Using NOEMS on EMM386 is what stops it from using EMS memory. With that parm, it only becomes a UMB provider. From looking at your complete CONFIG.SYS, I see you are already running one in UMBPCI.SYS. You might consider dropping EMM386 to test if you only use UMBPCI.SYS. If you want EMS memory, consider running EMM386.EXE alone without UMBPCI.SYS. And if that doesn't work, use the NOUMB option in running it alone. EMS works by swapping memory into and out of a 64KB block of upper memory, which makes it require most of upper memory to function. UMBPCI.SYS will allocate all upper memory blocks when it loads, so the EMS driver will not function. To dencorso: Usually most drivers are okay with an excess of resources as long as they are written to handle it. If you notice, Offler mentions that it shows 1024MB (1GB) capacity when he has 1.5GB, which means the driver is likely using 1GB as an artificial ceiling. But running EMM386 is irrelevant in his case (likely), because HIMEM.SYS is what will control memory access.
  7. A good action game with RPG elements? Deus Ex, if you can find a copy of it. I think most of the game services have it or Direct2Drive or Steam, but if not, Ebay most surely will.
  8. This is the Defense+ feature of the new Comodo Firewalls. The only advise I can really give you is to uninstall the firewall, and reinstall it without installing the Defense+ feature. Sorry this is all the help I can give you. I asked this same question here and didn't get much of an answer...
  9. Okay figured this one out myself. The Microsoft Installer got borked, so I manually deleted it and reinstalled it, and Java installed from there.
  10. I'm running into a problem over the last two Windows ME installs I've done. I have a hard time getting the install to start. Basically it just runs and tries to go to the Internet and then quits with no screens/whatever. I thought maybe a corrupt install was to blame but for this last install I downloaded a fresh copy and it does the same thing. Any ideas on this one?
  11. FWIW, I did have minor problems with XP SP3 3264 relating to threading/scheduling. If I multi-tasked something that required CPU time (music or video), it would slow down everything else. I solved much of it by reapplying the largepageminimum registry change that seems dictated for the AMD K7 CPUs. Hope that helps some.
  12. http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details...;DisplayLang=en 336MB, version 3264 Related Info: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/936929 Referring Page for the Download Link above: http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/windows...77c953a761.aspx
  13. These denote different patching systems that Microsoft has had in use over the years. There's five distinct ones that I'm aware of, and bunches of non-standard stuff out there as well. Add to that, there are many command-line parms that are not documented by the patch exec upon "/?", so this gets confusing, especially since it is so poorly documented and inconsistent. For the standard ones, you have to use the proper command-line switches as dictated by whatever patching system Microsoft used at the time. That's why the command-parms are different. You are asking about two different patching systems Microsoft has cooked up, so we have to take them separately. Patch #1 ---------- /Q:A Quiet Mode with No User Prompts /R:N Supress restarting after installation Patch #2 ----------- /q : Use Quiet mode (no user interaction). /n : Do not back up files for removal. /z : Do not restart when the installation is complete. /o : Overwrite OEM files without prompting. /quiet /norestart works on most (but not all) Windows XP patches, so you can always try that. Or if you are interested in installing patches and not slipstreaming them, you can always try Batch Patcher out.
  14. The attachment link on the bottom of the last post works.
  15. If I found Usenet easier to use than web-based forums (which I don't), I'd be posting there instead of here. Microsoft Windows 98 usenet Newsgroups on the web ?
  16. I don't know anything about the comic books, but I'll give some ideas on the sports cards. The major problem with most of the newer era cards was an over-supply compared to the demand. There was a time when people really held onto them and thought they get valuable with time. The problem is everyone was doing that, so given the laws of supply and demand, what is the worth of something that everyone has? Absolutely nothing. Then there just wasn't any interest in baseball cards (the major sports card market) from about 1988 on because of all the strike mess followed by the steroid mess. That tends to translate to interest in other sports cards as well. In fact, the lack of interest has gotten to the point that there are very few literal sports cards shops out there anymore. They either moved to selling things like used CDs, movies, game systems, games, and so on, or folded up shop. So what is valuable? Most active sports cards traders these days are going to tend to deal in vintage things (pre-1980), or in major names that everyone knows if past that era. As always, rookie cards are better, when it comes to major names. Sometime in the mid 90's, though, the card manufacturers tightened down on their over-supply problem (MLB limited their licensing to two or three companies, and I'm sure the NFL is doing something similar). They did this by increasing the price per pack and decreasing the number of cards per pack, so you might find a little more generic value if that's how your cards came (they're generally more glossier with gold/silver foil lettering and thicker card stock, too, so that is a good cue to look for). Given that background, the key things I'd look for in your set if I'd suggest anything with regards to people that are in the general trading market: 1) Condition is a big thing to people. For this era (1990-1995), if they're not absolutely pristine, not many people will want them and they will be very hard to sell at all. To that end, you'll be asked that question most times when you try to get rid of them. 2) Again, the big names (think stars that everyone knows, for example Peyton Manning) are what people will generally look for, more than just cards in general. In your local area, you might get a bump in interest for cards from the locally followed team(s). 3) Most buyers will be lazy/averse to go through them as well. Besides, you'll have difficulty proving any value for a random set and will likely take a hit in possible value if you sell the set as-is. People want to recoup some cost for their time in going through the set. For example, I have in my remaining baseball card pile a complete set of cards (132 total) that is worth as much as 3 of the cards in that set are if they were to be sold individually. The seller has to give the buyer what he wants before he buys. 4) I don't know how many cards you have total, but generally it will be of benefit for you monetarily to go through them when it comes time to trying to sell them. The consignment shop will probably charge you labor for sorting them out (my guess is much more than you will probably want to pay, given the potential return (see #3), but you can always check), and again you don't know for sure if they'll pocket something, etc, etc. It's a lot of work and annoying, trust me I know, but will be worth it in the long run to say "How much for the Peyton Manning?" and hear a higher dollar figure than having someone say "Okay 2 cents a card", or "$5 for the box." which is possible too. 5) If you need guidance on who the famous names are (if you don't know the represented sports well enough), there are pricing guides that get sold in places that generally cater to magazines that you can always sneak a peek at if you know what kind of card (brand/year) you are looking for. 6) If you're not willing to go to that much trouble, you can always see if you can find someone not as knowledgable and see what they'll take for them (you won't find those types on e-bay generally, that's where most of the genuine sports card traders hang out now), put them out at a garage sale or flea market (I've seen that a few times), or give them away so some kid will get them somehow. I'll share my experiences in getting rid of mine, if they might help: I had three crates full of baseball cards from about 1985 to 1992. I ended up going through them, and sorting out the major names (Roger Clemens, Cal Ripken, Mark McGwire, Barry Bonds, etc) to another box and left the rest in the boxes. I don't have the resources at my disposal yet to make an attempt to get rid of those yet. From calling around, I found out that most of the sports card shops tended to give away the non-major named cards (or common cards) they had for free, and would refuse to take the ones I had for any price (meaning they were wanting rid of those cards they were giving away and not being generous). Which meant I'd likely have to pay someone to take them. Not good. So I ended up destroying about 9500 common cards, and keeping roughly 200 of them to try and sell later. Hope this helped some, though I know most of this won't sound like good news.
  17. I recently did what you are talking about with the sports cards and can help you. What general time frame are the cards from? Let me know that, then I can suggest something from there.
  18. How does A-Squared Free work out for you all on the anti-malware front. It claims support of 98... As does SuperAntiSpyware.
  19. This is one thing I didn't think of to address in the MKT thread. With a console, there's always the guarantee that the game will work as long as the console is functional. With the PCs, that's not really the case. I mentioned the hardware/software problem in getting new games in the other thread (If you want Crysis that means you need a DX10 video card, which means you need Vista for DX10, which means all kinds of other upgrades to handle Vista, etc, other possibly broken games - just costs a lot of money to keep up in the PC side). But then there's always the software problem with the old games. I can't recall the number of games I used to play lots and like but I had to throw out because Windows 9X or Windows XP wouldn't run them properly (things like your MKT example). Contrast that with my 20 year-old FAMICOM/NES console - I could pull it out and still play Legend of Zelda, SMB 3, or whatever came out on it without a problem just like the day I bought them. Overall for the question, you just have to weigh your interests with the gaming systems that are out there (including PC) and see if the advantages and disadvantages for the platform (cost, does the platform have the games I like, etc) are something you can live with. For example, I notice most PC gaming enthusiasts are computer hardware gearheads who tend to upgrade their systems every six months anyway, so that gets them joy and for them negates the cost associated with the upgrades to have the newest games. But if you just want to play the games, the cost is a big turn-off. like was said, PC Gaming != Console Gaming. You just have to see what you like and go with it.
  20. Windows ME was one of the first Microsoft OSes to deal with Windows Update. Which means there probably is a legitimate automatic update process on the computer somewhere. "WUAUBOOT" or "-AUMagic" will indicate Microsoft Automatic Update processes.
  21. How do you disable all the UAC-like messages that come from it? I figured out how to silence the Defense+ part, but it still is throwing up an annoying number of messages, especially when I try to install/update programs. Any suggestions?
  22. http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Stuck-Pixel-on-an-LCD-Monitor for whatever it's worth. LCD monitors are actually liquid (Liquid Crystal Display) in part, so I guess the liquid part isn't equally smooth, so the other methods are mentioned? FWIW again, it seems that most of these programs mentioned simply flash the screen red green and blue? I threw together a regular Win32 program which does that after I first read this thread. I got a couple of things I want to do with it, but if people are interested in trying it out, I can put up an alpha/beta/whatever copy of it.
  23. Most things, indeed, only show up on the console. These days, the PC is a pretty dead platform for gaming, except for a few token games (last time I was in Best Buy, the aisle for PC games was maybe 3' wide, much smaller than back when I first got a PC) and whatever the flavor of the moment happens to be (Crysis right now). Truthfully, most people are noticing that the platforms are offering as good or better hardware without as much cost or problem in getting equipment (no perpetual upgrade train to play the latest games). So most of the gaming companies have gone to chase money there. I don't blame 'em either, it's static hardware with lower support costs, more people on them (again the upgrade train and the headaches in getting things to run), and a wider opportunity to do novel things without problems (like the guitar in the Guitar Hero series, or the Wii motion-sensor things - again standardized equipment), and the ability to charge more for platform games than PC games. Seriously, though, I'd like to find a few of the older PC games if I get a chance and can find them more than the newer ones, and beat some of the ones I have now that I haven't yet (Darius Gaiden, Madden 2003, and Giants: Citizen Kabuto). This is a standard memory error it seems for Windows NT based OSes and this program. This link looks promising. http://www.mksecrets.net/downloads/eng/downloads-updates.htm You can also try to run it in compatibility mode (for Windows 9X) if you haven't already.
  24. It depends on what kind of thing you like. This list should give you some ideas on some titles to start with. Of course for the older games, you can always go on Gametap, Direct2Drive, etc to find them. Many will work fine on XP too (Mortal Kombat 4 did anyway when I had it). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_fighting_games edit: Did you ever unlock Reptile in MK? That was fun for the times I could do it. Don't remember how now, of course. Also, how does MK run for you under DosBox?
  25. On The .NET 3.5 download page about 3/4 of the way down there's a link that says .NET Framework 3.5 full package. The file is a monster too (197 MB).
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