jaclaz Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Let's not confuse things. If you are going to a Data Recovery firm, you are going to spend anything from 300 to 3,000 US$ to get the data recovered, this includes a new disk drive holding the recovered data, and of course you will need to send them the WHOLE drive (and normally the failed drive is NOT returned, as they will need to find a replacement PCB and they will keep it for further uses) If you are going to a PCB replacement firm, you are going to simply buy a functional PCB recovered/salvaged from another (working) disk drive. A number of firms, if you send them the "old" PCB ONLY, will - as a service - transfer the old firmware to the salvaged PCB they will send you, typically this will cost, including the supply of the PCB, anything between 40 and 80 US$. Obviously in this latter case, all the data recovery (if needed) is your own problem, and as well IF other parts of the disk drive were fried (let's say one or more heads) the risk of having spent vainly 50 bucks or so is on you. jaclaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 I got a short on one of the combinations on one drive if what you mean by 0 is ground. Can you guys identify the TVS diodes in that image I posted? I'm guessing it the 2 black items nearest to the power pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 (edited) Not sure why your reply is not showing after I got an email that said you posted but here goes. Forum must be acting up and once I click post, your post will probably appear. It's your second description though you don't pay unless they are successful. Choice #1Send your hard drive or PCB for firmware transfer service. The total cost is $60 including parts, diagnostics, firmware transfer, and more. http://www.ebay.com/itm/161000794506 Scroll down to the description and you will see how it works. If I just send them the PCB and get it back and the drive is still bad I will be out $60 because they have transferred my firmware to their known working PCB and I'm going to have to pay for them to send me back the fixed PCB. Sending them the whole drive ensures that I don't pay unless the drive is functional again. Edited December 9, 2014 by -X- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaclaz Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 I got a short on one of the combinations on one drive if what you mean by 0 is ground. Can you guys identify the TVS diodes in that image I posted? I'm guessing it the 2 black items nearest to the power pins.No, a much higher resolution image is needed, but we can play the game reversed , this is how one will look like, you find it/them on the board : http://www.littelfuse.com/products/tvs-diodes/surface-mount.aspx See this for an actual example on your board: http://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?t=18870&start=41 http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9905/hds721010cla332.jpg However they are rectangular, usually but not *always* black, and they will be very near the connector, with one side connected to 0/ground and the other connected to 5v or 12V. jaclaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Yeah we are talking about the same thing item on the board so thanks. I retested them right on the board and non of them are shorted so all 4 are good. I must have not been very careful last night. I was almost passing out then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 You wont believe this but it was in fact Windows 10 that "broke" my hard drives. Just got off the phone with the company I sent them in to. Nothing really fried. It's just stupid MS sending stupid signals to the drive that make them appear broken. I spent $320 so far on this fiasco. You can read more about it at the following links...http://www.tweaktown.com/news/42320/windows-10-preview-bricking-boot-drives/index.html All I needed to do was do the reset myself but I never even heard the term PUIS until now. I'll post a thread in the 10 forum in the hope that more people don't get bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dencorso Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 I cannot fail to notice what happened to you is more than what is described on the pointed to articles:In fact, it disabled both your HDDs, and this means *all* HDDs connected to a given machine get disabled! That's really an ugly SNAFU MS got itself responsible for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaclaz Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Well, still a stupid PUIS command issued by the stupid driver in the stupid Windows 10:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power-up_in_standby cannot be responsible for: Yes both are dead the PCB boards fried. One has a popped capacitor or something. It's a short height round thing and the a piece of the plastic broke off and you can see the copper wires forming loops inside. jaclaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 That was my original diagonals but I was wrong. The black things which I am referring to as capacitors are really not an issue. It's more of a cosmetic thing according to the data recovery firm. Though you can see the copper wire winding around inside they have zero effect on their functions. He told me he sees it a lot. My guess is that the plastic is very brittle and during shipping it might have had some rough handling. The real problem was that the drives had been put to sleep and got stuck there. He just needed to run their $10,000 PC3000 tool on it to disable the PUIS function. You can do the same with a simple free utility that's shown in the few articles I've read on how to fix this hard drive state. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dencorso Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Well, all in all, I'm glad you've recovered all your stuff, and that both disks turned out to be OK. The round thingies having cooper wire wound inside must be inductors, which insulation became brittle due to the heat (a HDD is something really tropical, working at about 44 °C) and crackled, the shed pieces on being removed/manipulated. And, please, do yourself a favor, fork some more money and get yourself a 2 TB WD MyPassport. They do rock, and don't cost too much. And, then, do create, at least, one monthly backup to an external, removable HDD. The MyPassport is USB 3.0, you almost won't notice it's an external HDD at all. And if a PCI-e card is needed to complete the package, be sure to buy something base on a Renesas chip, they're the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 (edited) Thanks. Huge relief. This has sent me into a state of hysterical paranoia. I've backed up my D drive that contains my portable programs, my profile folder, desktop, and so on to Google Drive and will be doing that regularly since it fits in the space Google gives you. It's only about 10 GB's but it's very important how I have things setup on D. The rest, I'm going to have to have major redundancies. This can never, ever happen again. I might load one hard drive with my stuff and drop it off at a relative house in case of fire or theft. I have an insane amount of high definition video content. Not a lot of music or pictures really. Those, I don't care too much about. And yes, you are right. They are inductors. I google for images of them and that's what the inside of the blank circular things look like. Edited December 31, 2014 by -X- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 (edited) Just noticed your edit. Yeah I'm thinking of an external but I'm now hundreds of dollars technically behind on my rent payment after all this.My mobo has the Renesas USB3 already. I know MS has a pretty air tight user agreement on testing Windows 10 but I don't think they cover actually breaking hardware. I'm hoping for a class action lawsuit so that I can recover some of my expenses. Edited December 31, 2014 by -X- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dencorso Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 Don't look now, but they've just changed their user agreement because of that (although maybe too late to get off being sued by those, like you, who already got in trouble because of them). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 (edited) Yeah. I saw a popup when visiting their Answers forum and glanced over it. I just did another glance and I may have a route to have them make things right. I don't understand the legalise fully but it mentions things about class actions and that I can file a claim but it costs $200 to file and then MS reimburse you. http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/legal/arbitration/demand.aspx http://download.microsoft.com/download/4/1/6/4166BF49-106E-4198-BBA3-446AB85139E9/Notice-of-Dispute.pdf I could be wrong on this as I just did a cursory reading. I'll bookmark it and go over it in more details. It's times like this that I wish I was oozing money and can just ring up my pricey private attorney and let him handle things. Edited December 31, 2014 by -X- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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