The Solution for Seagate 7200.11 HDDs

[arttronics]

Hello ominouswanderer,

When trying to apply the fix for my 7200.11 500GB drive, although I did not make a note of the error hex/numbers, I too did have that same "formatted error" with regards to Spin Up failure, the R/W error, and humming as if wanting to start issue too (3 times).

What worked for me was to not use the cardboard between the "head" and PCB and instead use the cardboard between the "3-conductor" motor itself and PCB ( I read this somewhere and this worked for me).

I also needed to restore the Drive Configuration as my incorrect bit was "0" and not "1" as it should of been... this tutorial is what I used but with the mentioned switch from "head" to "motor":

http://www.overclock.net/t/457286/seagate-bricked-firmware-drive-fix-with-pics

I did not have to power-cycle my hard drive via the italics comments shown on that link.

I notice that web site has the instructions with incorrect margin, but the important stuff is still readable.

My in warranty drive (to 03-2013) is restored and I have already backed up my data.

Good luck.

[jaclaz]

When trying to apply the fix for my 7200.11 500GB drive, although I did not make a note of the error hex/numbers, I too did have that same "formatted error" with regards to Spin Up failure, the R/W error, and humming as if wanting to start issue too (3 times).

Just for the record this piece of info is also present on the actual "recommended" guide:

http://www.mapleleafmountain.com/seagatebrick.html

(Note: Some guides on the web have suggested insulating the *other* set of contacts (the "head" contacts) you see in the lower left of the above photo to the right. I tried this originally and it didn't work for me but obviously others have had some success with it. In *my* case, with 1TB model drives, I can assure you that insulating the slightly easier to access motor contacts worked where the head contacts method didn't. I suspect the specific model of your drive will account for the varying levels of the results so if one way doesn't work for you, think about trying the other. You'll know to look here if the HyperTerminal session won't allow you to spin down the drive and continues to give you the BSY error in reply - "LED:01...blah blah blah". If you're allowed to spin down the drive, then this bit isn't your issue.)

It is not clear at all in which cases one set of contacts works and in which the "other" set is needed instead, but it does cost nothing trying one or the other, so the rule of thumb is:

1. flip a coin
   
2. if you got tail try with the motor contacts
   
3. if you get head, try with the heads contact
   
4. if whatever you tried doesn't work, try the other set
   

@ominouswanderer

But, can you "feel" the drive motor rotating or not?

As in here:

jaclaz

Edited November 18, 2011 by jaclaz

[ominouswanderer]

I appreciate the responses- I apologize that it's taken me a couple days to respond.

Upon taking a closer look at the PCB it looks like there is a slight scratch next to one of the screws which may be what is causing the issue. It looks like it goes right across the traces that connect to the smart motor control. I assume that the problem has to do with this since it is not able to spin up properly. In a case like this is there anyway to repair the PCB? I thought of the possibility of covering the scratch with something and then scratching away at the traces but I'm not sure on where to start as far as that goes. I also was wondering about the possibility of buying a new PCB.

I've attached a pic of the scratch- anyone have any suggestions?

Edited November 22, 2011 by ominouswanderer

[jaclaz]

I also was wondering about the possibility of buying a new PCB.

I've attached a pic of the scratch- anyone have any suggestions?

Getting a "new" PCB will make you need to de-solder the "old" rom and replace it on the new board.

If you think that the issue are those tracks, it is far easier to fix them than to do a chip swap.

Judging from the pic, it can be fixed in no time with a fine pointed solder gun.

Here is a good example of the technique involved:

http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=185066&mpage=1

Have you checked for the continuity of the traces?

From they picture the scatch doesn't seem too deep.

jaclaz

[ominouswanderer]

I checked the continuity of the trace and it seems like there are definitely issues. The main issue seems that all of the traces are connected since the scratch goes through. Does anyone know of something that I could use to "fill" the scratch with something nonconductive so I can try and repair it? It may be beyond the point of self repair- I found a place online that supposedly will provide the new PCB as well as the chip swap for only $50 so that might be my only option at this point.

[jaclaz]

I checked the continuity of the trace and it seems like there are definitely issues. The main issue seems that all of the traces are connected since the scratch goes through. Does anyone know of something that I could use to "fill" the scratch with something nonconductive so I can try and repair it? It may be beyond the point of self repair- I found a place online that supposedly will provide the new PCB as well as the chip swap for only $50 so that might be my only option at this point.

You don't need anything "non conductive".

If there are three "higher points" A, B, C and three traces connecting them respectively to "lower" points D, E F, i.e.:

A<->D

B<->E

C<->F

the above three must show continuity AND there should be no continuity A<->C or B<-C, BUT you should analyze the circuits connected to them as with a multimeter set as ohmeter it is very possible that the comtinuity "passes" through some components of the board.

Since you have TWO boards, try measuring voltage levels on the two boards when connected to power.

If there is actually a "bridge" between A and B or between B and C all you need is some good eyes, a magnifying glass, a steady hand and an "exacto" knife or a surgical scalpel, you simply scrape some material BETWEEN the traces.

About the fifty bucks, it is a BET.

I mean, these guys will surely do what they promise , but we don't really know if doing a PCB (and ROM) swap will solve the issue.

As an example if your disk suffers from a head issue, you will just throw away the US$ 50 and if you want to (hopefully) get your data back you should be prepared to pay a bill in the US$500÷1,500 range

jaclaz

Edited November 24, 2011 by jaclaz

[FossilRock]

I've been struggling with this Seagate issue for a month or more with no success. I've read the 'sticky', I've followed the steps, but I can't seem to get a response in HyperTerminal when connected to the drive.

I purchased the USB to TTL converter shown below. It appears to function correctly as far as the pinouts go. Shorting RXD & TXD echos my typing in HyperTerminal. The voltage pins (3.3 & 5) are accurate as well. I don't think there are any issues with the device.

I have a card isolating the pins as described, with the board still attached to the drive.

I've wired the device to the HDD both ways (RXD <-> RXD / TXD <-> TXD & RXD <-> TXD / TXD <-> RXD) to ensure I didn't have it backwards but there's no difference.

My drive is a Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 1.5TB. I'm powering it with an external Sata HDD power adapter. The drive spins up and continues to spin for about 35 seconds and then spins down.

To the best of my knowledge, I've done everything as described. I've also used a USB to RS232 (DB9) cable with the same results.

I would appreciate any assistance in figuring out why it won't communicate with the drive. Maybe the device just doesn't do as claimed. I'm at a loss.

Thanks in advance,

Fossil

[Huygens]

I've been struggling with this Seagate issue for a month or more with no success. I've read the 'sticky', I've followed the steps, but I can't seem to get a response in HyperTerminal when connected to the drive.

No, response, not even garbage?

I purchased the USB to TTL converter shown below. It appears to function correctly as far as the pinouts go. Shorting RXD & TXD echos my typing in HyperTerminal. The voltage pins (3.3 & 5) are accurate as well. I don't think there are any issues with the device.

I think your adapter either sends or expects 5V signals as there is a clean USB-connector on the PC side. You should try another adapter which is sure to send 3.3V signals.

I have a card isolating the pins as described, with the board still attached to the drive.

I've wired the device to the HDD both ways (RXD <-> RXD / TXD <-> TXD & RXD <-> TXD / TXD <-> RXD) to ensure I didn't have it backwards but there's no difference.

My drive is a Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 1.5TB. I'm powering it with an external Sata HDD power adapter. The drive spins up and continues to spin for about 35 seconds and then spins down.

You don't give much details how your wires are drawn. Is there a GND to GND cable between TTL adapter & HD?

To the best of my knowledge, I've done everything as described. I've also used a USB to RS232 (DB9) cable with the same results.

Don't you need to have a RS232-to-TLL adapter between the DB9 and your HD, if I'm not completely wrong? Correctly powered too?

[FossilRock]

I've been struggling with this Seagate issue for a month or more with no success. I've read the 'sticky', I've followed the steps, but I can't seem to get a response in HyperTerminal when connected to the drive.

No, response, not even garbage?

Correct.

I purchased the USB to TTL converter shown below. It appears to function correctly as far as the pinouts go. Shorting RXD & TXD echos my typing in HyperTerminal. The voltage pins (3.3 & 5) are accurate as well. I don't think there are any issues with the device.

I think your adapter either sends or expects 5V signals as there is a clean USB-connector on the PC side. You should try another adapter which is sure to send 3.3V signals.

I measured 3.30v across GND and RXD and 0.79v across GND and TXD.

I have a card isolating the pins as described, with the board still attached to the drive. I've wired the device to the HDD both ways (RXD <-> RXD / TXD <-> TXD & RXD <-> TXD / TXD <-> RXD) to ensure I didn't have it backwards but there's no difference.

My drive is a Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 1.5TB. I'm powering it with an external Sata HDD power adapter. The drive spins up and continues to spin for about 35 seconds and then spins down.

You don't give much details how your wires are drawn. Is there a GND to GND cable between TTL adapter & HD?

Yes

To the best of my knowledge, I've done everything as described. I've also used a USB to RS232 (DB9) cable with the same results.

Don't you need to have a RS232-to-TLL adapter between the DB9 and your HD, if I'm not completely wrong? Correctly powered too?

That's what I thought and why I purchased the USB to TTL device.

Edited November 29, 2011 by FossilRock

[jaclaz]

I measured 3.30v across GND and RXD and 0.79v across GND and TXD.

HOW exactly (I mean with what tool(s)) and doing what) did you make that voltage measure?

Can you post a link to where you got that adapter?

Have you tried exchanging the Tx and Rx connections on the hard disk side?

jaclaz

[FossilRock]

Ohm / Volt meter (9v range) -- GND <-> RXD = 3.3v .... GND <-> TXD = 0.79v

Adapter was bought off eBay.

I've switched the TXD & RXD on the adapter (easier) which should have the same results as on the HDD.

I've got an Arduino Nano, I'm going to see if I can rig something up that will give me some feedback to see if the signal from HyperTerminal is going through.

Added: Here's a post within this thread that shows a different model of the adapter being used.

Edited November 30, 2011 by FossilRock

[jaclaz]

Ohm / Volt meter (9v range) -- GND <-> RXD = 3.3v .... GND <-> TXD = 0.79v

It sounds like "DUD" unfortunately.

You simply CANNOT measure TTL levels with a ohmeter/voltmeter.

You need an oscilloscope, even a poorman's one would do:

http://www.zeitnitz.de/Christian/scope_en

http://www.electronics-lab.com/downloads/pc/002/index.html

and you need to measure while transmitting to the port.

I've switched the TXD & RXD on the adapter (easier) which should have the same results as on the HDD.

Sure, Tx and Rx labels can be very confusing.

Did anything change?

jaclaz

[FossilRock]

I wasn't trying to measure TTL levels, I was merely seeing if there was anything measurable on the pins.

I read in another portion of this thread that you should be able to get the CTRL-Z to work even if the drive is not powered. I tried that and all it produced was a → (right arrow).

Turning power back on produces no output.

What makes you think the adapter is a dud? Everything seems to work as it should, just not the communication with the HDD.

[Huygens]

What makes you think the adapter is a dud? Everything seems to work as it should, just not the communication with the HDD.

Perhaps not a dud, but just not suitable for your HD. Try another adapter based on RS232 instead, to get the correct 3.3 V.

[jaclaz]

I wasn't trying to measure TTL levels, I was merely seeing if there was anything measurable on the pins.

Well, NO.

You were told:

I think your adapter either sends or expects 5V signals as there is a clean USB-connector on the PC side. You should try another adapter which is sure to send 3.3V signals.

and you replied:

I measured 3.30v across GND and RXD and 0.79v across GND and TXD.

Carpenter's comparison:

Please make sure that the plank is exactly 123.2 cm long.

Now if you replied:

I measured it and it is 22.5 cm.

It should mean that you measured it's length and NOT it's width.

I.e. I presumed that you were replying with what you thought was related, meaningful info.

What makes you think the adapter is a dud? Everything seems to work as it should, just not the communication with the HDD.

It is well possible that the issue is the actual hard disk PCB and the adapter is perfectly working and outputs 3.3V TTL level allright.

The "best" condition to attempt communication to the PCB is with the PCB completely detached from the hard disk AND powered.

Try again this way.

Try exchanging Tx with Rx.

If it doesn't work, there are 4 possibilities:

1. you connected the the wires "badly" (I don't believe this)
   
2. the adapter is a "dud"
   
3. the adapter is NOT a "dud" but it outputs "something" that the PCB doesn't like, so it is not an"absolute dud" but rather a "relative dud"
   
4. the PCB - for any reason - cannot communicate through the TTL port
   

Once discarded #1, your only choice (as you can't do anything about #4 ) is either ascertain if #2 or #3 apply (oscilloscope) or presume anyway that one of them applies and try with another adapter, possibly one already mentioned in this thread and known to be among the "working ones".

A "loopback" test is a good preliminary test, but it tells you nothing on what actually goes through the loop.

A functional 5V TLL adapter will work allright in a loopback test, but it "talks" and "understands" 5Vish, from the various reports it has been determined that the hard disk ONLY talks and understands 3.3Vish.

jaclaz

Edited December 1, 2011 by jaclaz