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About Huygens

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  1. Both are (USB) powered with 5V, so I doubt they work, as they may end up sending a signal with too high voltage to the HD.
  2. I'm guessing, but I think it may work as it is 3.3 V output. But still, remember that different adapters may have different wave forms on their signals, so nothing is sure. Beware that some adapters can be duds as handling during freight can damage the electronics. One piece of advice. The output jumper ends are female, which is good, but they are still to big for the HD, and you don't want to directly sandpaper them down in case you grind too much. Instead buy some male-to-male and some female-to-female jumpers (short cables to keep voltage spikes down) and put at the ends of your adapter output. Then you can sandpaper the female-to-female cable end. If you grind too much just pick another female-to-female jumper. If you already have some nice pins to use, you could skip buying the male-to-male jumpers, or try finding a kit locally with a mix of male and female jumper cables.
  3. That one will probably work correctly if you feed it something like 3.0 - 4.0 V.
  4. Your USB-to-TTL adapter is apparently one of the few USB-adapters which works at the correct 3.3 V level (and _not_ 5 V). Could you tell us what's the make of the USB-to-TTL adapter, chip No, looks or brand name?
  5. 1. Check loopback 2. Check the right signal transfer speed, Hyperterminal or virtual COM port MS Windows System HW setting 3. Check your 3.3 V power to your RS232/TTL adapter 4. Check grounding 5. Check all cables/connection points In your post, you state; "it connects" - exactly what is "it" and why do you think it "connects"?
  6. I think that there are more than 3 firmware faults in those Seagate HDs, resulting in vastly different symptoms on firmware "reset". Could you please provide a little more info. What HD did you exactly unbrick? Also, did you skip or change any of Gradius's steps for unbricking?
  7. I might not be able to help you, but you should rule out the possibility that the PCB has been connected to the disk (motor/head contact not isolated), by completely removing the PCB, put it on an isolated surface and try the Z/U commands again. If you still get your specific error, my guess is that you have a more severe fault than the regular BSY error.
  8. If we assume it's too expensive to send the bricked HD to a data recovery company: What you say is that if the CarterinCanada commands plus the i4 & the F,,22 commands don't work, meaning the HD still isn't detected by BIOS, the HD should be regarded as dead?
  9. Something isn't properly reset, I don't know why, but having read some posts I would also suggest the following. Could you try: F3 T>/2 F3 2>Z <--- (remove paper piece, tighten torx screws)F3 2>U F3 2>/ F3 T>F,,22 F3 T>m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 <--- (now, power down everything and then test HD in BIOS) with no power down between (F,,22 and m0,2,2,0,0,0,0,22 commands) and _not_ doing the i4 and _not_ doing the N1 command. There has been some debate concerning the power down, if it's needed or if it could potentially be bad. I think aviko claimed that the i4 command could potentially be harmful, but anyone may correct me, I also think gradius had a different opinion on this i4 matter than aviko. Also, aviko gave this alternative (!) m0 command in this post, when the HD still wasn't detected in BIOS. It may be worth taking a look at. It my be worth noting that there has been some discussion if some commands may destroy data as in this post. The last resort will be to read all 4000 posts in this thread and see if anything rings a bell.
  10. Hard to guess what you mean. You could either search the net for your driver. Or you could try to skip the dialog, perhaps it's some kind of unnecessary setting? If you provide screen shots, things may be more clear to us.
  11. I assume you powered down (and powered up) everything between "F3 1>" and "F3 T>"? On my 500 Gb disk I isolated the head contacts with a thick card board piece (in such a way that the motor contacts probably also were without contact). This may be more tricky as I had to completely untighten 3 torx screws on one side of the board, but it worked for me.
  12. Hmm... Seems like your German adapter is fed with 5V, which may result in 5V output and you want 3.3V. I would try a plain 3.3V adapter like this one from Portugal, which you can feed with anything from 3.0V - 3.6V (and most likely up to 4.5V) to get the correct output signals. Delivery from Hong Kong to Europe doesn't take more than 2-3 weeks even with customs. If the first adapter doesn't work you may want to try buy a second or third. Some adapters have been reported being duds (I have experienced it myself).
  13. I'm not so sure. Seems some data recovery companies can use slightly different PCBs like in this clip. There are also sold 7200.11 replacement PCBs for data recovery, from this site. And here is another clip for a DIY Seagate PCB drive swap (not 7200.11, but 7200.10 it seems).
  14. Answers, partly based on my experience and partly on what I've read: 1. If the HD doesn't show up in BIOS at boot time, there is a higher likelihood that the fault is the so called BSY error. If your data is interesting for you and you have no backup, you should try. 2. You should go the RS232 adapter route in my experience, since a clean USB-to-TTL adapter most often doesn't work with the HD. I did most of the gradius method, with the exception of isolating the HEAD contacts, see this link . Look for example up ebay MAX3232 adapters. Going the mobile phone cable route also seems to work for many people, when they get a working cable with active components (Window drivers too), but some cables just don't cut it. I don't know what you mean with "the-shorter-bsy-only-one". There probably are no short 15 minutes fixes for this problem. 3. Switching PCB is an absolute last resort and the only case it has seemed to work is when someone has had two identical HDs (one working fine, one having BSY error), switched PCBs and powered them up with BIOS (which is rumored to reset at least on of the PCB's firmware), then switched back the PCBs to their original HDs. It's _not_ recommended as it may put the PCB/HD in an undefined state from which there is no recovery. 4. No internet connection is needed for the actual unbricking. Read carefully everything you can find on it, beginning with the start of this thread, also helpful and important is this link and also this link (which are mentioned several times elsewhere). Read, read, read, puke, read, read. 5. Yes.
  15. It may not be enough that the signal is 3.3V. The shape of the signal could interfere too. I would try an RS232 adapter as most USB adapters don't work with the Seagate HD. It could also be important how low the low signal is, 0.79 V is quite high for being a low signal and may not be low enough for the HD to recognize it as a low signal, as the signal toggles up and down during communication. Also verify that the GND on the adapter is the same GND on the PCB side, by connecting each to a multimeter and getting a resistance of max 5 Ohm.